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1488 Italian Garb

Latest Diary Entry - May 10, 2004


Below are my inspirations for the gamurra/underdress. The Gamurra Project has taken on a life of its own and now I want to make tons of gamurras. I still want to make my dream dress (both incarnations of it) but I want lots of gamurras in different colors, with different sleeves and different necklaces. Sometimes fancy hair, sometimes with a coif. I'm getting just a tad obsessed.

Portrait of a Lady
Ghirlandaio c.1480
Clark Art Institute
Williamstown, MA
Portrait of a Girl
Ghirlandaio c.1490
National Gallery
A Young Woman
Ghirlandaio c.1485
Metropolitan Museum of Art
New York
Portrait of a Woman
Botticelli c.1475
Palazzo Pitti, Galleria Palatina
Costanza Caetani
Fra Bartolommeo c.1480-90
London National Gallery of Art


Back view of woman sitting from Ghirlandaio's 1482-90 The Preaching of St. John
Neck is v-shaped and seam appears to be side back.

From Ghirlandaio's 1490 Portrait of a Girl (seen above)
You can see the seam placement is side back if you look under the arm. At first I thought this was back lighting, but the rest of that side of the body does not appear to be back lit.


I have discovered that the dress opening extends past the waist into the skirt. Which makes sense if you want to be able to step into the dress and get the bodice up past your hips. Especially my hips. Even in dresses where it looks like there is no opening in the skirt, more than likely the opening is hidden in the folds.

Francesco Cossa Allegory of April: Triumph of Venus 1476-84
Fra Bartolommeo Costanza Caetani 1480-1490
Notice how the opening extends below the belt.

  I'm trying to decide if I should gather or box pleat the skirt. There seems to be evidence for both.

Francesco Cossa Allegory of April: Triumph of Venus 1476-84
Box Pleats
From 1491. More evidence of box pleats


Gamurra - On to the fitting of the bodice

1488 Italian
Camicia - Gamurra - Maniche - Fazzoletto - Giornea - Hair and Make-up - Cuffia - Stockings - Scarpette - Jewelry
Shirt - Underwear - Farsetto - Maniche - Calze - Giornea - Scarpette - Hat - Accessories