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 Bobbers serve as indicators when a fish has taken the Fishing Bait. Shop and buy here. 


Bobbers, floats and corks are used for three reasons. They keep your bait where the fish are biting, keep bait off the bottom, and they tell you when you're getting a bite or strike by bobbing up and down. Bobbers come in various shapes from round, to pencil or quill, to popping, and oblong. Most bobbers are spring-loaded and attach to your fishing line with a clip. Some are tied directly to your line or allow the line to slip entirely through for slip-cork fishing.



Floats. Floats are used to keep baits off the bottom and to assist with detecting a bite. The float should be just large enough to do the job; if the float is too large, the fish will feel it and may not become hooked.








Bobbers, also known as floats, serve as indicators when a fish has taken the Fishing Bait. Bobbers also keep the Fishing Bait from touching the bottom. A Bobber quivers or jerks on the water as soon as a fish has taken your Fishing Bait. Bobbers come in different forms: ball, slip, and pencil. The portion of the Bobber which floats is usually painted white for you to keep track of the Bobber. The other part is painted red or with any contrasting color to determine if a fish has already taken the Fishing Bait or not. This is our collection of Bobbers where you can choose from.




It could be called a float, bobber, cork, etc.

Bobber fishing is one of the first methods we all learn when starting to fish.

A sinker takes your bait to the desired depth in the water, and a bobber holds it at that level. It will allow you to adjust the depth of your hook wherever you want.

Bobbers let you know when you've got a nibble.



Button, pencil and slip bobbers are a few of the types available. When you clamp the bobber on the line, remember that the distance from the sinker to the bobber should not be more than the depth of the  water.

 Bobbers come in various sizes to accommodate different sinkers and baits. They are usually made of red and white plastic and have a push-button spring attachment that makes moving them up and down your line easy.

Remember the smaller the better.  Wind is your enemy in this case.  If the float is too light, the wind will blow it back to you, too big and you will scare the fish off.


The bobber has a second benefit.
 When the bobber twitches in the water,. you know a fish is nibbling at your bait. When it goes under the water, you know a fish is serious about eating the bait and it's time to "set the hook" (give the line a little jerk).

Usually the smaller and thinner bobbers work best. But don't use one so small that the weight and bait sink it. When the bobber goes under the water surface, you know that a fish has taken your bait. A bobber also adds weight to the line to help you cast farther.

bobber basics: 

Use a bobber just big enough to float the bait and weight  
Wait for the bobber to go under before setting the hook 
Make the leader light enough so fish won't be spooked by it 
Make the leader long enough not to spook the fish 
Use a bait that sinks 
Sharp hooks 
Adjust bait level below bobber so its close to the bottom but not on it.

A Good Set Up of a Float

A wooden float has a hole through the center so that it can slide up and down the line. Tie a piece of dental floss above the float so that the float will stop where you need it to.  The float should set up straight with only the orange or red section out of the water. 

From the hook to the weight is about 4 inches.  From the weight to the knot is around 48 inches.  You will want to experiment with this depth.  Though it's set up to around 48 inches, it doesn't mean that you necessarily fish that deep.  Use that to see how deep that you are.  Try using a long pole with a reel, and this rig will most of the time just under the end of the pole.  When the float is in the water, the knot could be at any depth because the weight and hook are really hanging from the pole.

This set up will allow you to wind the tip of the pole all the way up to the hook when you get hung up under water.  Once you have reeled up all of the line, you can punch it and normally the hook will break free.
Another advantage is the ability to throw it. 
The float will slide to the weight and there is no wobble as everything goes through the air.  When retrieving the rig from far away, the float will try to sit still in the water so that the hook and weight will almost come straight up.  This helps to keep from getting hung up. 

Try this trick, 
remove the weight and floss and let the cricket float slowly down in a natural way.  You will catch bigger fish especially if it can hit the bottom where the bigger ones feed.
The only problem here is that you sometimes have a fish and don't know. 
More than often the small ones will get on your nerves.  

Slip Bobber

What is a slip bobber and what does it do? 

A slip bobber is a float that slides freely along the angler's fishing line. 

Sure, plastic conventional clip-on bobbers - the ones that attach directly to the line - are easy to use; anyone can easily clip them on and off.

Most youngsters start out fishing with a conventional bobber and a worm for bait. Ninety-nine percent of the kids I see fishing are using the old stand-by plastic bobber. Dad or Grandpa started them out that way; because that's the way they started fishing.

But are they the best way to introduce a youngster to angling? Considering the frustration many experience using them.

Conventional bobbers have 3 serious drawbacks:

 1) The depth at which they can be set is pretty much limited to the length of the angler's rod because anything more is too difficult to cast with distance or accuracy;

The other problem comes when the fishing depth is more than a few feet below the surface. With a lot of extra line between the bobber and the hook, this rig becomes an unwieldy task to cast. In deeper water the youngster winds the bobber up to the tip of their rod, and still has too much line out to retrieve the fish without losing it.

2) Because of their attachment to the line they limit the amount of line that can be reeled up, thus hampering efforts to control fish (especially large ones) in that critical time when you've almost got 'em landed;


3) Their direct attachment tends to damage line. Problem is, the line is usually kinked by the wire clasp. The line will often break at that kink when a large fish is hooked, especially if the line is old.

Slip bobbers solve all 3 of these problems quite nicely. They can be fished at any depth, the line can be reeled all the way to the terminal tackle, and they do not damage line.

For any float to work there has to be some point at which the float is restrained from movement on the line. As I said, conventional bobbers do this by attaching directly to a fixed point on the line. The key to slip bobbers is that they are not attached directly to the line, but they are limited in moving by a part that is. This part is the line stop or stop knot. A stop knot is small enough to pass easily through rod guides and reel mechanisms, but too large to pass through the stop bead on the slip bobber. The stop knot is snugged tightly enough to resist movement under pressure from the bobber, but can still be moved along the line by the angler if he or she desires a different depth setting. Thus, the angler armed with a slip bobber can fish at any depth and is only limited by the depth of the lake or the amount of line on the spool.

It may sound all complicated but really it's not. And it's greatly effective. 

Let's go on with how you actually set the Slip Bobber up.

First you'll need the fixin's.

There are three main parts to a slip bobber rig. The first part being the bobber stop.
There are a few types the most popular are a sliding bead, a sliding knot or some use rubber bands knotted to the line. They all do the same thing, which is to stop the line from sliding through the bobber at the depth you set them. They must also be of a size that will easily pass through the eyes on your pole.
(Some ultra lights use such small eyes the bobber stop can't pass through and can't be used for slip bobber fishing.)
The bobber stop is placed on the line first. 

The second part is the slip bobber. It is called a slip bobber because it is made to slip up and down the line and makes fishing any depth of water possible with a bobber.

The last part of the set up is your choice of bait rigs.

Slip bobber, bobber stop, and beads are available both in kits and separate packaging. Slip bobbers are available in pencil thin designs made from wood as well as foam; however, some of the originals were made from porcupine quills. Fatter floats are available, depending upon the bait and weight involved in your presentation. Ideally, you want the bobber to barely support your bait, so that when a fish takes the bait, it won't feel the resistance.

The concept is simple. Starting with a bare line, you slide on the "bobber stop" first. 

There are several types of stops. Rubber stops look like a grain of rice. They don't need to be tied but can be a challenge if your eyesight is poor like mine. Gizmo and Dogbone stops are two other popular styles.

Another method utilizes a simple knot. 

If you elect to use the traditional "knot stop", remove the knot from the straw by sliding the straw off of the line. Pull the knot tight and snip off the tag ends so that it will not become tangled when wound up all the way through the rod eyes to the reel. Once you've got the knot secure, thread a small bead and the bobber onto the line. The bead serves to keep the knot from being drawn down into the bobber when a fish takes it down. Once you've completed this process, tie on your choice of hook and add the appropriate weight to reach the depth you are working. The weight and bait should hold the bobber upright, just above the surface.

  1. Thread your line through the plastic tube that holds the stop knot. Give yourself at least a couple of feet of free line.

  2. Slide the stop knot off the tube and onto your line. Make sure you slide it off the end of the tube toward your rod tip. Slide the tube off your line and discard it.

  3. Slowly and steadily pull both tag ends of the stop knot to tighten it down and then snip off the tag ends to 1/16 inch so that it will not become tangled when wound up all the way through the rod eyes to the reel. When you think it's tight enough, test it. You should be able to slide it under medium (not light) pressure.

  4. Once you've got the knot secure, thread a small bead and the bobber onto the line. The bead serves to keep the knot from being drawn down into the bobber when a fish takes it down. Once you've completed this process, tie on your choice of hook and add the appropriate weight to reach the depth you are working. The weight and bait should hold the bobber upright, just above the surface.

The final product should look something like this.


Another way to make your own stop knot is out of a piece of scrap mono.  Tie the scrap line on your main line above your slip bobber in 3 overhand knots.  Make it tight enough to stay in place but still be able to slide when you want to move it.  Repeat the process on the opposite side of the main line.  Trim the tag ends to 1/16 inch.  The big advantage of this method is that you don't have to tear down your rig to apply it. It's a very useful technique, especially if you find yourself out of stop knots or in the middle of a feeding frenzy.

Ok, the hard part's over. Thread your line through the slip float - this means entering through the glass bead and exiting through the brass tube guard - and tie on your terminal tackle (hook, jig, etc.). It's a good idea to attach a small split shot about a foot above your bait - this will keep the float from sliding off if Big Wally snaps your line at the bait. Now, slide the stop knot to set the depth at which you want to fish.

You now have a fully functional slip bobber rig.


1) Bait up with whatever they bite on in your area and cast your rig upon the waters. The slip bobber will rest in a more or less horizontal position as your bait sinks and your line slides through it. As soon as it contacts the stop knot, it should assume a vertical position. The length of time that this takes depends on how deep you are fishing and how much terminal weight you are using, but you want the bobber to be vertical because many game fish will carry the bait upward as they strike, causing a vertical bobber to pop up to horizontal. You can't detect this if your bobber is already horizontal, and you may lose a fish because of it. If your bobber doesn't tip to vertical, here are some reasons why:

A) Your depth setting is too deep and your bait is resting on the bottom of the lake;

B) You are not using enough terminal weight; 

C) Your bait is hung up on a weed or some other structure; or 

D) A fish has taken the bait on the way down (more on this later).

2) If your float tips to vertical and immediately sinks,

A) You are using too much terminal weight; 


B) Fish On!

3) Pay attention. Any movement of the float - down, up, sideways - should be regarded as a fish. If you keep getting strikes while the bait is sinking, the fish are suspended above your depth setting and you should shallow up.

4) When should you set the hook? 

Hit 'Em Now
Hit 'Em Hard!

Many fish have been lost by trying to wait them out rather than have by setting the hook with speed and gusto.

There is no bigger thrill than watching a bobber disappear under the water's surface, reeling up the slack line and setting the hook into a nice big catch.

5) How big a bobber should you use? 

Just enough to float your bait. The smaller the bobber, the more sensitive it is and the less the fish can feel it.

6) When you cast, allow your line to remain slack until the bobber tips to vertical. This will help prevent the float from "running up" your line and pulling your bait away from the structure that you casted to.

7) As good as they are, slip bobbers do have a drawback. They are not a "fast" fishing method, so they are probably not your best bet for locating fish. I typically drift or cast until I find actively feeding fish; once I find them, I get out the slip bobbers and clean up on them.

When you want to fish at a depth of 10 feet, just slide the knot further up the line to the desired depth and cast it out. When the bobber hits the water, the line will slide through the bobber tube and come to rest at your preset depth where the knot is tied. When you have a fish on, you can reel the fish all the way up to the dock or boat without having to deal with a bobber that is clipped at 10 feet. If you do much fishing at night, you might want to check out the illuminated bobbers that glow brightly and are easy to spot without any ambient light.

If you want to switch to a different presentation, just snip the line at the hook and slide the bobber and bead off. You can leave the stop on your line and be ready to switch back at a moments notice.

Not only will slip bobbers work better for youngsters and Grandpa as well, they will eliminate a lot of frustration for you, and make a more pleasant day for all concerned. More importantly, the more time you spend with your bait in the water (instead of untangling junior's line) the more fish you will catch.

Some techniques used for specific species.

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It is important that people who fish follow all fishing rules and regulations.
These rules help conserve fish populations and also help anglers be successful.
Regulations may limit the size of, number of, and season that a type of fish may be caught, and may require a license to fish. In some cases, only “catch and release” fishing is allowed, which means the fish must be let go. Some bait is illegal in certain areas.
Contact your state wildlife agency by visiting Our Rules and Regulations Page.

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please feel free to Email me

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