III a -
Foundation
III b - Concealer
III c - Powder
Foundation is the Canvas of Your Makeup Artistry!
Using the right foundation for you is a
most important first step. See tools and products for tips on foundation.
It is critical that you get a shade that MATCHES your facial tone. (Nothing
looks stranger than a relatively stark light face with darker ears and
neck!) A good place to check for foundation is on the side your upper
neck area (since your foundation will feather and blend to your neck).
Smooth a small amount there. If it virtually disappears on your neck
it will probably be a good match!
If you can find a store with samplers that is the next best thing to getting a makeup
blended specifically for you at a makeup counter (something I highly recommend if you can
manage it!).
If you can't find an exact match then try the closest thing in your skin tone. If
it is too light, next time to the store pick up a bottle of the next darkest color (or
vice versa if it is too dark!) in your skin tone of the same brand and type of foundation
(don't mix brands/types!). Blend the two in varying amounts until you find the right
tone. If you are relatively careful in measuring your test samples you will be able
to develop a formula (I.E. 1/2 bottle "Beige" and 1 bottle "Natural
Beige"). You can vary the formula darker for summer months when you are likely
more tan!
Makeup How To
Step 1a - Foundation
Before applying foundation wash your face with good facial cleanser and moisturize
your skin with a moisturizing conditioner. If you plan to be outside, use a moisturizer
with UV protection since most makeup has little or no UV protection built in.
With the exception of beard concealer, all blemish concealers go on AFTER your
foundation (see the Concealer section below)
Apply the foundation with a makeup sponge or your fingers blending DOWNWARDS.
Yes, I know you have heard many say upwards but blending downwards allows the fine hairs
on you face to lay naturally under the foundation (as opposed to making them stick
straight out!). Smooth the foundation on in small areas at a time. Getting it even
is the key here. Be careful but work quickly because once many
foundations dry, applying new damp makeup to those areas will
often take already dried (set) makeup off.
Many of TG girls will have to use foundation on their neck to cover beard stubble there
(yucky because you can NEVER keep it off your clothes!).
Before applying powder, use any other concealers you may need. |
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Concealer
Only use a concealer if you really need it as it is just another step and layer of
makeup you don't want if you don't need it. But if you do need it to cover various
imperfections, the following will help you understand which types work for the various
blemishes and color variants in your face.
Color correcting concealers work by providing an opposite color to the color you are
trying to conceal. They don't actually "cover" the blemish, they
capitalize on the physics of light where opposite colors cancel one another out giving
appearance of an apparent clear complexion.
Beards for example (the only concealer I recommend to apply before foundation) tend to
look blue. If you use red under your foundation in your beard areas, the effect is to help
cancel the blue. The best under-foundation concealer I have found is red lipstick.
Before I had my facial hair removed, I used "Revlon Red". It is red with
a slight orange cast which I found did the best job. But almost any bright red lipstick
To cover your beard, take the lipstick and dot it on the areas that show your beard.
Use a makeup sponge or your finger to blend the lipstick feathering it at the edges
of your beard.
All the other color correcting concealers are used OVER the foundation.
Yellow toned concealers cover purple under eye circles. Green conceals redness such as
acne scars or birthmarks. Mauve is used to correct any areas where your skin tone is tends
toward yellow.
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Makeup How To
Step II b - Concealer
Determine the color concealer you need as above. Apply the concealer either with
a clean fingertip or makeup sponge. Start with a small amount of concealer applied
in a gentle dabbing motion to entire the area you want to cover. Don't rub or apply
pressure. Blend the concealer until the area is covered. If you are using a color
correcting concealer, use just enough to cover the area, then very lightly apply a flesh
tone concealer over the top with the same gentle dabbing technique. Carefully blend the
edges into the skin so the color transition is very smooth and there are no definite lines
between colors. |
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