I think one of the most difficult things in cosmetics to master is the use of
blush. There are five things to consider when working with blush:
-
Blush Type
-
Color/Shade
-
Blush Placement
-
Shape of Blush Pattern
-
Color Intensity
Most of are frustrated by blush initially. We either put it on so
we look like a little old lady with those outrageous round heavy splashes
of rouge on our cheeks or our face looks long or unbalanced.
In beauty school we spent a whole week on blush! I certainly
won't go into such detail here but I will try to provide the approach that
works well with most faces.
First, you must decide on the type of blush you wish to use.
There are basically two types; Crème blushes and powdered blushes.
Crème blushes have the advantage of being very long lasting. Once
you put it on, it will last and last throughout the day and evening.
It has the disadvantage of being a little hard to get the hang of applying
it. I definitely recommend starting with powder. If you make a
mistake, you can tissue it off reasonably well and re-dust with loose
powder to start again!
As for colors to use, below are some rough guidelines to help you
choose an initial color based on hair and skin color:
|
Hair / Skin color |
Blush Color |
| Blonde
hair and cool skin |
Baby
Pink |
| Blonde
hair and warm skin |
Tawny
skin |
| Dark
hair and cool skin |
Cool
Rose |
| Dark
hair and warm skin |
Rosy
brown |
| Red hair
and cool skin |
Soft
Peach |
| Red hair
and warm skin |
Warm
Peach |
| Dark
hair and olive skin |
Warm
Brown |
| Black
hair and dark skin |
Terracotta |
The guidelines for applying blusher
-
Always use a large, good quality blusher brush.
-
Remember a “blush” naturally appears from underneath the skin and
is usually just a hint of color. So use it sparingly!
-
Apply blush under the natural cheekbone. The easiest way to
find the right place to apply blush is to smile broadly to bring up the
"apples of your smile". Apply blush there and blend.
-
Do not go below the nose or past the middle of your eye towards the
nose.
-
Blend back and up toward your temple.
-
In general your blush should appear as a narrow triangle beginning
on your apples and flaring toward your temples.
As a rough guide for placement of your blush, make the victory sign with your right hand spreading your
index and middle finger as far apart as possible. Place the "V" of
your fingers (where they meet) just below your left cheekbone (or on
your "Apple" as above!) . Use your index
finger to point to the top of your ear. Inside this area is roughly where
your blush should be placed. Reverse hands for the other cheek!
And my cardinal rule applies here too! Blend, Blend, Blend!
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