A Professional's Surf Prediction:
Nearshore buoy reports up substantially since yesterday.
W swell dominates La Jolla area, more energetic than expected S dominates at Oceanside and Dana Pt.
All locations show a bit of wind chop.
The above photo is not of me, nor is of where I surfed.
This photo by "Surfshot.com" just shows the average size of the waves in San Diego today.
I surfed Horseshoe early - got pounded - but I did get one good wave.
Waves were typical Horseshoe, faces were close to 10' easy!
Paddled over to Hospitals to get in - to the beach - a little easier - MISTAKE!! -
Got caught inside there, and ended-up in the place where I hate to be
the inside right shelf.
Naturally, I couldn't get in, or out -
So, being the surf stud I am, I went straight in over the rocks -
No major damage to me or the board - whew -
The wind started blowing from the south, so I went back to The Shores.
I had looked at it earlier, but the tide was too high, so I had gone uptown for the reefs.
When I returned, The Shores was smokin'!
South wind offshore, White House Rights from the north swell, and there was a bit of a west swell, providing some easy lefts for most of the guys who did not want to tackle
The Rights -
The usual cast of characters, including ME, were out at the White House:
I snagged a pretty big warm-up wave. I've got my new technique:
This worked pretty well for a starter - ride was witnessed by DJ - Then I went a little deeper.
Next wave was a bomb - easy 10' face.
Billy was deeper than I was, but I figgered he'd never get to when I was.
He went.
I went.
We both ate s**t.
I apologized profusely.
The Karma then got me:
Went in, bought a case of Bud for the boys.
What a Great Day!!
Later,
BA
The link to more of my surf reports is: Surfing With BA