SurfReports
Thought I'd better add some disclaimers:
* All of the tales I'm spinning are based upon facts of some sort.
* Most of the tales will be at least 50% factual.
| My First "Stand-up" Wave - La Jolla Shores 1957?
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Photo by Tom Clark's Mom.
Surfboard was a Dave Sweet, I think.
The best thing about learning to surf in the
late fifties and early sixties - in retrospect - was that we didn't have wetsuits, nor leashes.
We learned how to hold on to our boards, how to paddle around
the waves, and, most importantly, we learned how to stay out of the way.
(we also learned to keep our mouths shut)
Back then, the punishment for surf stupidity was quick and a bit violent.
But, we did learn some valuable lessons - I think?
The natural progression was ocean swimming,
spear fishing, body surfing, mat surfing, surfboarding.
We also learned to surf in places that were "kook
friendly" like The Shores, etc.
We wouldn't have dared to learn at WindanSea
or even "Archer Street" (Gee Uncle Billy, where's Archer Street)?
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© 2003 bill andrews and adaywithba.com - All rights reserved, and I reserve the right to be stupid.
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Opps Forgot Some Stuff:
Thought I'd better add some disclaimers:
* All of the tales I'm spinning are based upon facts of some sort.
* Most of the tales will be at least 50% factual.
I'm doing this web thing for a few reasons, and it is, and will be, "a work in progress" for a while:
1. It's an easy way for me to organize my "autobiography" so my kids will know a bit more about me.
2. I find this computer and internet stuff fascinating.
3. I was lucky to be able to start surfing - at least in my opinion - in the "Golden Age" of surfing - I do have some yarns to spin regarding those times.
4. This is an efficient way for some of the old guys to touch bases again - I've received a few e-mails from old (err, long-time) friends I've haven't seen in forty years or so - I think that's way cool.
5. I'm still surfing almost every day - and, at least in my opinion - that's a pretty "boss" thing to write about.
6. I think it will be nice, in a couple of years, to maybe look back at how good - or bad - the surf was in any given stretch of time.
