Waves breaking on the outside, peeling for both sides and with a nice workable wall - this "wall" is the mushiest wave in the world, except for Tourmaline - coming all the way to the beach. The ugliest beach in the world - littered with discarded needles and broken bottles.
Pretty consistent- Consistent?? The waves are 2 hours apart. with longer rights while the lefts are more hollow and have some occasional barrels - barrels? Occasionaly means once a year, if you're lucky.
Have fun! - Somewhere else
Waves size: Waist to chest high - Usually Wind**S** closes-out at this size.
Sets size: Head high - Never gets bigger than this.
Sets Interval: Around 6 min - This is the time between WAVES not SETS
Surfers Out: 12 guys - These are the toughest, baddest 12 guys in the surf world. Kinda like the Magcificent Seven, plus the Three Stooges and Laurel and Hardy.
Wind: Calm - Only until 7:00 AM - then it blows south onshore for the rest of the day.
Weather: Clear - Unitl 7:00 AM - then the fog rolls in with the south wind.
* All of the tales I'm spinning are based upon facts of some sort.
* Most of the tales will be at least 50% factual.
I'm doing this web thing for a few reasons, and it is, and will be, "a work in progress" for a while:
1. It's an easy way for me to organize my "autobiography" so my kids will know a bit more about me.
2. I find this computer and internet stuff fascinating.
3. I was lucky to be able to start surfing - at least in my opinion - in the "Golden Age" of surfing - I do have some yarns to spin regarding those times.
4. This is an efficient way for some of the old guys to touch bases again - I've received a few e-mails from old (err, long-time) friends I've haven't seen in forty years or so - I think that's way cool.
5. I'm still surfing almost every day - and, at least in my opinion - that's a pretty "boss" thing to write about.
6. I think it will be nice, in a couple of years, to maybe look back at how good - or bad - the surf was in any given stretch of time.