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GENERAL INFORMATION - KHABAROVSK KRAI


    Published: 03/1999

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Facts at a Glance

Full name: Khabarovsk Krai (Territory)
Area: 787,600 sq.km.
Population: 1,608,000 or 2 residents per 1 sq. km. (urban population - 1,296,000)
Administrative division: 17 Districts (Rayon), 6 cities, 31 towns, and 183 villages.
Capital city: Khabarovsk - 617,000 population
Distance from Moscow: 8,533 km.
People: Russians - 86.4%, Ukrainians - 6.1%, Native people - 1.4%, 6.1% others. The biggest native tribe Nanai - over 10,000 and the smallest Negidaltsy - 213.
During the last few years there is high migration rate of Koreans, Chinese, Caucasians. No statistics update is available.
Language: Russian is official language. Many people have basic knowledge of English.
Religion: Russian Orthodox Church prevails. Also, Russian Old Believers, Baptist, and others.
Government: Khabarovsk Krai Administration - is executive branch and Khabarovsk Krai Duma - legislature.
Governor: Victor Ishayev
Chairman of Khabarovsk Duma: Victor Ozerov


Environment
Khabarovsk Krai is the mountainous territory with few different climatic zones.
Extreme elevations: Mount Berill - 2,933 meters and coastal area at zero sea level.
The most populated and suitable for living is southern part along Amur-River valley, where are located all major cities: Khabarovsk, Komsomolsk, Amursk, and Nikolayevsk.
Northern part is permafrost tundra with scarce Russian population and reindeer breeder nomad Evenk tribe. Climate in the Amur-River valley is sharp continental, with cold and windy winter (average - 20-25C) and hot, sunny and humid summer (often +30C at 100% moisture). From the end of June to the middle of September there is a plague of mosquitoes. The best season to visit is May-June and September-October. Coastal areas have climate similar to the Alaskan coast.
Amur-River from November until the end of April is covered with ice (1 to 2 meters thick). Summer time starts from the end of May until the beginning of September. In June sundown is about 11 p.m. and in December at 5.30 p.m.
Animal world and fauna are represented by mixture of northern and southern animals and plants. You can meet there Grizzly Bear and Leopard, Reindeer and Tiger, famous Chinese "Root of Life" - Zhensheng and Northern Larch, Wild Grapes and Forget-Me-Not.


History at a Glance.
The first Russians penetrated into the Pryamurye Region were teams of few hundred Cossacks headed by Vasyly Poyarkov (1643-1646) and Yerofei Khabarov (1649-1653). During that time different oriental tribes of over 30,000 native people populated the territory. There were few small Manjurian principalities in the valley of Amur River. Cossacks went across the territory in search of gold and firs, destroyed a number of settlements, and imposed contribution on Manjurian Princes and tribes. They established few small Russian fortresses, which 20 years later were destroyed by Manjurian troops.
In the middle of 19th century the Crimean War gave impetus to the Russian colonization of the Far Eastern territories.
In 1850 the naval expedition of Gennady Nevelskoi had established Russian fortress Nikolayevsk in the mouth of Amur-River. In 1854-1860 General Governor of Eastern Siberia Muravyov-Amursky arranged few military expeditions to Pryamursky Region. During that time were established all major coastal seaports and settlements along the Russian-Chinese border. In 1958 Muravoyv-Amursky signed Aigunsky Agreement and later, in 1860, Beijing Agreement, which determined the border between Russia and China.
Still there are many contradictions in those agreements, which resulted in territorial dispute and military clashes at the Russian-Chinese border near Khabarovsk in 1968.
During the Russian - Japanese War of 1905 Russian government opened wide gate to settlers from central regions to Pryamurye territories. They were tax exempt and received support and benefits. By 1914 was completed the construction of Trans-Siberian Railroad, which connected the Pacific Seaport Vladivostok with central regions of Russia.
In 1917 the Soviets were peacefully established in the Russian Far East. Invasion of Japanese troops in July 1918 started the Civil War. In April 1920 there was established an independent Far Eastern Republic with capital in Verkhne-Udinsk (Chita), which covered all eastward of the Lake Baikal territories.
In November 1922, after the end of Civil War, there was established Far Eastern Oblast, and later in 1926 the Far Eastern Krai (province).
After Japanese occupation of Manjuria (Northern China) and during and after the W.W.II Soviet government's policy was an increase of military presence in the Pacific and creation of powerful military industrial complex. The bulk of Far Eastern industries were built for military purposes and over 80% of consumer goods and products were delivered from central Russia. The Far East was proudly called the "Soviet Pacific Fort Post".


Modern Policies and Economics at a Glance
From the Soviet times Khabarovsk Krai was traditionally considered as the "Conservative Territory". Together with development of military industries the local Communist Party Secretary Alexei Chyorny (1967 to 1989) concentrated his efforts on construction of big domestic state agricultural and consumer goods production complexes. Such policies gave positive results in conditions of Soviet centralized planning, but proved to be inefficient in markets economy.
As a result of economic liberalization Khabarovsk Krai has met the following major problems:
- Liberalization of state control over natural monopolies, like energy and transportation sectors, has created a sharp growth of energy and transportation costs. Their share in the price structure of domestic products sometimes exceeds 60%. It has reduced economic dependence of Krai from Central Russia (today only 15% of products are imported by railroad from Russia) and increased its dependence on the Asian-Pacific markets. The problem is aggravated by the inefficient energy infrastructure built during Soviet times.
- Uncontrolled fast privatization of state industries has resulted in corruption and robberies by new owners of many domestic big industrial enterprises and companies.
In this situation Khabarovsk Krai government concentrates efforts on development of energy and transportation infrastructure, to lower the cost of domestic products and make them competitive at the Asian markets. Khabarovsk Krai raises many hopes on development of Sakhalin Shelf oil and natural gas projects, as the major pipelines will cross its territory.
Also, after Russian economic crisis of 1998 Khabarovsk government makes serious attempts to take control over some important local industrial monopolies and export of raw materials and commodities.
Today export structure of Khabarovsk Krai includes logs, fish and marine products, oil, scrap metal, military aircraft, sea vessels.
Wood export includes: Larch, Spruce, Furwood, Ash, Mongolian Oak, Siberian Cedar, and small amount of other species logs.


Demographic information
The population of the Russian Far East and Khabarovsk Krai was formed by the mixture of settlers from other regions of Russia and much influenced by historic events.
Part of local residents moved to the Russian Far East in search of better life. Before Bolshevik revolution and during Soviet times the Far Eastern residents always enjoyed many benefits. For example, in 1960-1990s Khabarovsk residents had 30% to 40% higher salaries and many workers were provided with free train or air vacation ticket to Central Russia, enjoyed higher pensions and etc.
Some young people were drafted into Soviet Army from other Russian regions, and after the end of service had stayed to live in the Far East.
Many young KOMSOMOL members and young specialists had volunteered to work at the big construction sites, like Baikal-Amur Railroad.
GULAG and penitential system.
From the first days of colonization, together with free settlers and Cossacks, the Russian government had arranged a network of prisoner camps and deported to Pryamurye criminals and revolutionaries. After serving the term many had stayed there for permanent residence. For example, before 1917 Khabarovsk had big international communities of deported Poles, Austrians, Hungarians, Czechoslovaks, Germans and other prisoners of the W.W.I. After the Civil War many of them returned home, but some had stayed.
In 1920-30s a majority of domestic intellectual society had escaped to the neighboring China, and another part had stayed in Russia and later perished in GULAG camps.
Next big wave of settler came in 1930s with "Kulaks" (wealthy peasants), who with families were deported from Siberia, Ukraine, and Russia for permanent residence in the "Special Settlements".
Before 1930-th Khabarovsk had few big local Korean and Chinese communities, who in 1935 on suspicion of spying for Japanese within one week were deported to the Soviet Central Asia. Now their children return and the number of Korean residents is evidently growing.
In the beginning of 1950s there came another wave of people deported from Western Ukraine and Baltic Republics. Most of them worked in logging companies. Today many of their children live in small towns and still keep national traditions and language.
A big role in forming of the local population was played by DALLAG (Far Eastern Gulag). Khabarovsk was surrounded by labor and probation camps and many prisoners (political and criminals) worked at construction sites and local industries. After the end of the term many of them stayed. The legend that Komsomolsk-Na-Amure was built by the Young Communist League volunteers is a sheer lie. Russian prisoners and Japanese prisoners of war build the majority of industries and residential houses.
Japanese Manjurian Army played the special role in construction of Khabarovsk and other cities. From 1945 to 1955 Japanese prisoners of war worked there as constructional workers. They enjoyed rather soft camp regime and easily communicated with local people.
Not in any way such history means that Khabarovsk Krai residents are a low educated criminals. In 1930-60s in Russian labor camps one could meet highly educated scientists, engineers, skilled workers and many representatives of cultural intelligentsia. There is a Russians joke: "That was a time, when half of the Russia was in prison, and another part was shivering from fear of being jailed". Many children of former prisoners graduated from Universities and became managers, scientists, and administrators. Any way, almost every Russian family can mention to you some close relative, who was persecuted or jailed by Soviets.
During the last few years Khabarovsk Krai refugees from former USSR countries and fortune seekers have flooded Khabarovsk. There are strong Azerbajanian, Armenian, Georgian, and Caucasian communities. A tribe of Tajik Gypsies regularly begs on the streets. Evidently have grown a number of Koreans, Chinese, and Vietnamese.
Such history has created a tolerance among majority of local population to other people's culture and customs. I know only few people who can say that their fathers lived in the Far East before 1917. Nationalistic feelings are not much appreciated by Khabarovsk Krai residents.


Food
Most Russians eat high calories food like potatoes, bread, meat, vegetables, fish, pickles and Salo (special salt pork fat). They absolutely don't care about cholesterol. Still there are only few overweight people, as Russians walk and move a lot. Usually after hours and during the weekend many women go shopping carrying heavy bags with food.
Restaurants: Most of Russian families cook and eat at home. They visit restaurants only on a special occasion, to celebrate birthday, wedding or just to dance. A loud bouncing dancing music, which doesn't allow you to talk, is a must in many Russian restaurants. During the last few years restaurants became too expensive for many plain Russians, and are visited mostly by wealthy people, mobsters, and prostitutes. In Khabarovsk you can find few night Disco clubs.
It is not compulsory to tip in Khabarovsk restaurants. But it is highly appreciated by waiters. Usually we may leave them a change of few USD during payment, if we like the services. It looks like a reward, rather than a tip.
Dacha: A special pride of many city residents are vegetables and fruits from their Dacha. Almost every family has Dacha (country house) - a small plot with summer hut, where people raise their crops. A regular Khabarovsk Dacha's crops include tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers, onions, garlic, peas, pumpkins, water melons, cabbage, strawberries, gooseberries, currants, raspberries, apples and few others. Dachas provide additional food for many poor people and pensioners. Also, Dacha is a hobby for many city middle class families, who like to spend their weekend "working on land". From the beginning of May until late September majority of city residents spent their weekend working at Dacha.
Fishing: Many Khabarovsk men are real fishing fiends and poachers. Amur-River is rich with fish and you can see many anglers sitting at the river embankment in the down town area. They catch carp, skygazer, catfish, perch, and whitefish. Poachers usually catch fish at night with net. Many fishermen make "Tala", a raw-fish salad, which is a traditional food of native people. In the middle September Khabarovsk fishermen catch going upstream salmon. In winter fishermen make hole in the ice cover (1-1,5 thick) and lure whitefish and pike.
There is variety of raw fish and marine products in the city stores and markets. The real domestic KingFish is a Sturgeon. There are two kinds of Sturgeons: Kaluga - a big shark-like fish sometimes of 1,5 tons weight, and a smaller Osyotr: of 60-70 kilo weight. Their tender and tasty meat is highly valued.
CAVEAT EMPTOR. You can find a variety of American and European imported quality food products in the big grocery stores like Western Family, Ema and others. Still there are many counterfeited cheap food products and goods imported or smuggled from China, which are sold in small shops and by street vendors.
We advice a visitor, who does not know domestic markets: Do not try to save few cents. Buy quality products in the big stores and you will have no stomach or poisoning problems.

Drinking
Many Russians drink a lot of alcohol. Still you will not meet many drunken people on the streets. We can not say that it's a "country of alcoholics". I know many people who do not drink alcohol at all.
Russian men usually drink vodka, and women prefer dry and sweet wine or Champaign. Russians always drink vodka straight without ice. They do not understand what is "one drink" portion. In restaurants they usually order alcohol in grams: 100 grams or 200 grams (a glass of vodka), or 500 grams (a bottle). Don't mix vodka, beer or Champaign, like some Russians may do. It's a dangerous stuff. You will get drunk fast and the next day feel in a hell.
If you visit a family or some kind of a party, than the best policy is to taste a little of alcohol and explain that you "do want to drink", but has a liver problems and is under medications. Resolute statements like: "I don't drink at all" can challenge a bet to pester you with requests for drinking.
Bootleg business if highly developed in Khabarovsk and controlled by Azerbajanian Mafia.. Don't buy alcohol in small shops, from street vendors and at the city markets. The real safe and good alcohol are sold in special "Russian Vodka", "Ussurysky Balsam", and some other big stores.
There are few beer bars in the big cities of Khabarovsk Krai, where you can buy good German and Dutch beer. Also, there are a variety of good beer brands produced by local company "AmurPivo". They have good quality and enjoy high reputation.
CAVEAT EMPTOR: Do not buy canned beer labeled "Made in USA", like "Red Bull" brand or other similar stuff. Majority of such counterfeited products comes from Poland and China. After one or two cans of such stuff you may fall absolutely drunk.

Shopping
Money: You can exchange US$, Japanese Yen and German Marks without any problems in Khabarovsk banks and Currency Exchanges. To do that you must show them your travel passport.
Do not exchange currency on the street or with individuals, who usually hang around currency exchange, even if they offer a better rate. Police often reports about tricks with counterfeited or Old Russian bills. This kind of guys is called "Kydaly" - Spanners.
The times when aliens traveled to Russia bringing their rolls of toilet paper has gone forever. You can buy a majority of imported western products and goods in Khabarovsk stores.
I've met an American who came with two trunks full of different stuff and was much surprised to find the same set in Khabarovsk stores.
The best places for shopping are Trade Centers and City Markets. They work from 10 a.m. until 6 p.m. without lunch break.
Trade Center - looks like a city market located inside an office building, rather than a Mall. There are many small entrepreneurs selling their imported products and goods. Most of their products are from China and Korea, but few sell European, Canadian, and USA quality goods. The biggest Trade Centers in Khabarovsk are "Serysheva 60" and "Singapore". Usually you can not bargain about the price in a Trade Center.
City Markets. There are few big "Flea Markets" in Khabarovsk. We call them "Barakholka". Private Company "Ali" owns many Khabarovsk markets. The most popular one is Vyborgskaya Barakholka. It is better travel to Barakholka by commercial bus. Today one way ticket is 3 Rbls. To enter the market gates you will have to pay another 1 Rbl. It's a big open site crowded with petty vendors and buyers. A big left corner is allocated for Chinese salesmen. Here you can find a variety of cheap goods imported or smuggled from China and Korea. It is strange that some goods are cheaper in Khabarovsk Barakholka than in Harbin markets in China.
Bargain at the City Markets is often appreciated. You can discount the price by 25-30%.


Transportation
Cars and Public Transportation.
During Soviets a private car was considered as the " luxury piece" and few families could enjoy it. From the beginning of 1990-s the Russian Far East was flooded with used cheap Japanese (right steering wheel) cars. It created many environmental and other city infrastructure problems, like bad roads, parking, and garages.
Still many Russians prefer to use a public bus, which is much cheaper and create less problems. Today the public bus fare for the city routes is flat, from 2 to 3 Rubles, and does not depend on distance. You buy a fare ticket directly from conductor (Konduktor) inside the bus.
Buses are usually overcrowded during peak hours from 8-9 a.m. and from 5 to 7 p.m.
Long distance buses to the neighboring towns leave from Central Buss Station located close to the train station. The fare varies according to distance from 20 to 50 Rbls.
Taxi. Khabarovsk taxi has no counter and you have to negotiate the fee. Also, many Russians use their private cars to earn money and you can stop car by just standing near the road with raised right hand. No free hitchhike is available now, and any way you will have to pay the ride.

River Transportation, Airports, Train.
From May to October many people travel to their dachas or sandy beaches by a ferryboat. For longer distance are used hydrofoils, which come down Amur-River until Nikolayevsk. Boats leave from the River Station located close to Komsomolskaya Square.
The short one-day hydrofoil tours to China and 2 hours ferryboat tours along Khabarovsk are available.
Khabarovsk has one International and two domestic airports located in the same area. The Small Domestic Airport (Maly Aeroport) is used for flights to the small towns of Khabarovsk Krai.
Travel from the downtown to the airports by trolleybus takes 40 minutes.
Please remember that booking for the flight in Russia ends at 1 hour and boarding the plane at 30 minutes prior to the scheduled departure. So, you may have problems missing the established time limits and miss you plane.
Khabarovsk has one train station of the Trans-Siberian railroad located in the down town area. You can reach it by public bus.
Local resident prefer to travel to Vladivostok (Pacific coast) by train, which leaves at 7 p.m. and arrives to Vladivostok at 9 a.m. Non-stop driving by car usually takes about 14-16 hours.

Thank you for you time.
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03.03.1999