Published: 03/1999
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Facts at a Glance
Full name: Khabarovsk
Krai (Territory)
Area:
787,600 sq.km.
Population: 1,608,000 or 2 residents per
1 sq. km. (urban population - 1,296,000)
Administrative division: 17 Districts
(Rayon), 6 cities, 31 towns, and 183 villages.
Capital city: Khabarovsk - 617,000
population
Distance from Moscow: 8,533 km.
People: Russians - 86.4%, Ukrainians -
6.1%, Native people - 1.4%, 6.1% others. The biggest
native tribe Nanai - over 10,000 and the smallest
Negidaltsy - 213.
During the last few years there is high migration rate of
Koreans, Chinese, Caucasians. No statistics update is
available.
Language: Russian is official language.
Many people have basic knowledge of English.
Religion: Russian Orthodox Church
prevails. Also, Russian Old Believers, Baptist, and
others.
Government: Khabarovsk Krai
Administration - is executive branch and Khabarovsk Krai
Duma - legislature.
Governor: Victor Ishayev
Chairman of Khabarovsk Duma: Victor
Ozerov
Environment
Khabarovsk Krai is the mountainous territory with few
different climatic zones.
Extreme elevations: Mount Berill - 2,933
meters and coastal area at zero sea level.
The most populated and suitable for living is southern
part along Amur-River valley, where are located all major
cities: Khabarovsk, Komsomolsk, Amursk, and Nikolayevsk.
Northern part is permafrost tundra with scarce Russian
population and reindeer breeder nomad Evenk tribe.
Climate in the Amur-River valley is sharp continental,
with cold and windy winter (average - 20-25C) and hot,
sunny and humid summer (often +30C at 100% moisture).
From the end of June to the middle of September there is
a plague of mosquitoes. The best season to visit is
May-June and September-October. Coastal areas have
climate similar to the Alaskan coast.
Amur-River from November until the end of April is
covered with ice (1 to 2 meters thick). Summer time
starts from the end of May until the beginning of
September. In June sundown is about 11 p.m. and in
December at 5.30 p.m.
Animal world and fauna are represented
by mixture of northern and southern animals and plants.
You can meet there Grizzly Bear and Leopard, Reindeer and
Tiger, famous Chinese "Root of Life" -
Zhensheng and Northern Larch, Wild Grapes and
Forget-Me-Not.
History
at a Glance.
The first Russians penetrated into the Pryamurye Region
were teams of few hundred Cossacks headed by Vasyly
Poyarkov (1643-1646) and Yerofei Khabarov (1649-1653).
During that time different oriental tribes of over 30,000
native people populated the territory. There were few
small Manjurian principalities in the valley of Amur
River. Cossacks went across the territory in search of
gold and firs, destroyed a number of settlements, and
imposed contribution on Manjurian Princes and tribes.
They established few small Russian fortresses, which 20
years later were destroyed by Manjurian troops.
In the middle of 19th century the Crimean War gave
impetus to the Russian colonization of the Far Eastern
territories.
In 1850 the naval expedition of Gennady Nevelskoi had
established Russian fortress Nikolayevsk in the mouth of
Amur-River. In 1854-1860 General Governor of Eastern
Siberia Muravyov-Amursky arranged few military
expeditions to Pryamursky Region. During that time were
established all major coastal seaports and settlements
along the Russian-Chinese border. In 1958
Muravoyv-Amursky signed Aigunsky Agreement and later, in
1860, Beijing Agreement, which determined the border
between Russia and China.
Still there are many contradictions in those agreements,
which resulted in territorial dispute and military
clashes at the Russian-Chinese border near Khabarovsk in
1968.
During the Russian - Japanese War of 1905 Russian
government opened wide gate to settlers from central
regions to Pryamurye territories. They were tax exempt
and received support and benefits. By 1914 was completed
the construction of Trans-Siberian Railroad, which
connected the Pacific Seaport Vladivostok with central
regions of Russia.
In 1917 the Soviets were peacefully established in the
Russian Far East. Invasion of Japanese troops in July
1918 started the Civil War. In April 1920 there was
established an independent Far Eastern Republic with
capital in Verkhne-Udinsk (Chita), which covered all
eastward of the Lake Baikal territories.
In November 1922, after the end of Civil War, there was
established Far Eastern Oblast, and later in 1926 the Far
Eastern Krai (province).
After Japanese occupation of Manjuria (Northern China)
and during and after the W.W.II Soviet government's
policy was an increase of military presence in the
Pacific and creation of powerful military industrial
complex. The bulk of Far Eastern industries were built
for military purposes and over 80% of consumer goods and
products were delivered from central Russia. The Far East
was proudly called the "Soviet Pacific Fort
Post".
Modern
Policies and Economics at a Glance
From the Soviet times Khabarovsk Krai was traditionally
considered as the "Conservative Territory".
Together with development of military industries the
local Communist Party Secretary Alexei Chyorny (1967 to
1989) concentrated his efforts on construction of big
domestic state agricultural and consumer goods production
complexes. Such policies gave positive results in
conditions of Soviet centralized planning, but proved to
be inefficient in markets economy.
As a result of economic liberalization Khabarovsk Krai
has met the following major problems:
- Liberalization of state control over natural
monopolies, like energy and transportation sectors, has
created a sharp growth of energy and transportation
costs. Their share in the price structure of domestic
products sometimes exceeds 60%. It has reduced economic
dependence of Krai from Central Russia (today only 15% of
products are imported by railroad from Russia) and
increased its dependence on the Asian-Pacific markets.
The problem is aggravated by the inefficient energy
infrastructure built during Soviet times.
- Uncontrolled fast privatization of state industries has
resulted in corruption and robberies by new owners of
many domestic big industrial enterprises and companies.
In this situation Khabarovsk Krai government concentrates
efforts on development of energy and transportation
infrastructure, to lower the cost of domestic products
and make them competitive at the Asian markets.
Khabarovsk Krai raises many hopes on development of
Sakhalin Shelf oil and natural gas projects, as the major
pipelines will cross its territory.
Also, after Russian economic crisis of 1998 Khabarovsk
government makes serious attempts to take control over
some important local industrial monopolies and export of
raw materials and commodities.
Today export structure of Khabarovsk Krai includes logs,
fish and marine products, oil, scrap metal, military
aircraft, sea vessels.
Wood export includes: Larch, Spruce, Furwood, Ash,
Mongolian Oak, Siberian Cedar, and small amount of other
species logs.
Demographic
information
The population of the Russian Far East and Khabarovsk
Krai was formed by the mixture of settlers from other
regions of Russia and much influenced by historic events.
Part of local residents moved to the Russian Far East in
search of better life. Before Bolshevik revolution and
during Soviet times the Far Eastern residents always
enjoyed many benefits. For example, in 1960-1990s
Khabarovsk residents had 30% to 40% higher salaries and
many workers were provided with free train or air
vacation ticket to Central Russia, enjoyed higher
pensions and etc.
Some young people were drafted into Soviet Army from
other Russian regions, and after the end of service had
stayed to live in the Far East.
Many young KOMSOMOL members and young specialists had
volunteered to work at the big construction sites, like
Baikal-Amur Railroad.
GULAG and penitential system.
From the first days of colonization, together with free
settlers and Cossacks, the Russian government had
arranged a network of prisoner camps and deported to
Pryamurye criminals and revolutionaries. After serving
the term many had stayed there for permanent residence.
For example, before 1917 Khabarovsk had big international
communities of deported Poles, Austrians, Hungarians,
Czechoslovaks, Germans and other prisoners of the W.W.I.
After the Civil War many of them returned home, but some
had stayed.
In 1920-30s a majority of domestic intellectual society
had escaped to the neighboring China, and another part
had stayed in Russia and later perished in GULAG camps.
Next big wave of settler came in 1930s with
"Kulaks" (wealthy peasants), who with families
were deported from Siberia, Ukraine, and Russia for
permanent residence in the "Special
Settlements".
Before 1930-th Khabarovsk had few big local Korean and
Chinese communities, who in 1935 on suspicion of spying
for Japanese within one week were deported to the Soviet
Central Asia. Now their children return and the number of
Korean residents is evidently growing.
In the beginning of 1950s there came another wave of
people deported from Western Ukraine and Baltic
Republics. Most of them worked in logging companies.
Today many of their children live in small towns and
still keep national traditions and language.
A big role in forming of the local population was played
by DALLAG (Far Eastern Gulag). Khabarovsk was surrounded
by labor and probation camps and many prisoners
(political and criminals) worked at construction sites
and local industries. After the end of the term many of
them stayed. The legend that Komsomolsk-Na-Amure was
built by the Young Communist League volunteers is a sheer
lie. Russian prisoners and Japanese prisoners of war
build the majority of industries and residential houses.
Japanese Manjurian Army played the special role in
construction of Khabarovsk and other cities. From 1945 to
1955 Japanese prisoners of war worked there as
constructional workers. They enjoyed rather soft camp
regime and easily communicated with local people.
Not in any way such history means that Khabarovsk Krai
residents are a low educated criminals. In 1930-60s in
Russian labor camps one could meet highly educated
scientists, engineers, skilled workers and many
representatives of cultural intelligentsia. There is a
Russians joke: "That was a time, when half of the
Russia was in prison, and another part was shivering from
fear of being jailed". Many children of former
prisoners graduated from Universities and became
managers, scientists, and administrators. Any way, almost
every Russian family can mention to you some close
relative, who was persecuted or jailed by Soviets.
During the last few years Khabarovsk Krai refugees from
former USSR countries and fortune seekers have flooded
Khabarovsk. There are strong Azerbajanian, Armenian,
Georgian, and Caucasian communities. A tribe of Tajik
Gypsies regularly begs on the streets. Evidently have
grown a number of Koreans, Chinese, and Vietnamese.
Such history has created a tolerance among majority of
local population to other people's culture and customs. I
know only few people who can say that their fathers lived
in the Far East before 1917. Nationalistic feelings are
not much appreciated by Khabarovsk Krai residents.
Food
Most Russians eat high calories food like potatoes,
bread, meat, vegetables, fish, pickles and Salo (special
salt pork fat). They absolutely don't care about
cholesterol. Still there are only few overweight people,
as Russians walk and move a lot. Usually after hours and
during the weekend many women go shopping carrying heavy
bags with food.
Restaurants: Most of Russian
families cook and eat at home. They visit restaurants
only on a special occasion, to celebrate birthday,
wedding or just to dance. A loud bouncing dancing music,
which doesn't allow you to talk, is a must in many
Russian restaurants. During the last few years
restaurants became too expensive for many plain Russians,
and are visited mostly by wealthy people, mobsters, and
prostitutes. In Khabarovsk you can find few night Disco
clubs.
It is not compulsory to tip in Khabarovsk restaurants.
But it is highly appreciated by waiters. Usually we may
leave them a change of few USD during payment, if we like
the services. It looks like a reward, rather than a tip.
Dacha: A special pride of many
city residents are vegetables and fruits from their
Dacha. Almost every family has Dacha (country house) - a
small plot with summer hut, where people raise their
crops. A regular Khabarovsk Dacha's crops include
tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers, onions, garlic, peas,
pumpkins, water melons, cabbage, strawberries,
gooseberries, currants, raspberries, apples and few
others. Dachas provide additional food for many poor
people and pensioners. Also, Dacha is a hobby for many
city middle class families, who like to spend their
weekend "working on land". From the beginning
of May until late September majority of city residents
spent their weekend working at Dacha.
Fishing: Many Khabarovsk men are
real fishing fiends and poachers. Amur-River is rich with
fish and you can see many anglers sitting at the river
embankment in the down town area. They catch carp,
skygazer, catfish, perch, and whitefish. Poachers usually
catch fish at night with net. Many fishermen make
"Tala", a raw-fish salad, which is a
traditional food of native people. In the middle
September Khabarovsk fishermen catch going upstream
salmon. In winter fishermen make hole in the ice cover
(1-1,5 thick) and lure whitefish and pike.
There is variety of raw fish and marine products in the
city stores and markets. The real domestic KingFish is a
Sturgeon. There are two kinds of Sturgeons: Kaluga - a
big shark-like fish sometimes of 1,5 tons weight, and a
smaller Osyotr: of 60-70 kilo weight. Their tender and
tasty meat is highly valued.
CAVEAT EMPTOR. You can find a
variety of American and European imported quality food
products in the big grocery stores like Western Family,
Ema and others. Still there are many counterfeited cheap
food products and goods imported or smuggled from China,
which are sold in small shops and by street vendors.
We advice a visitor, who does not know domestic markets:
Do not try to save few cents. Buy quality products in the
big stores and you will have no stomach or poisoning
problems.
Drinking
Many Russians drink a lot of alcohol. Still you will not
meet many drunken people on the streets. We can not say
that it's a "country of alcoholics". I know
many people who do not drink alcohol at all.
Russian men usually drink vodka, and women prefer dry and
sweet wine or Champaign. Russians always drink vodka
straight without ice. They do not understand what is
"one drink" portion. In restaurants they
usually order alcohol in grams: 100 grams or 200 grams (a
glass of vodka), or 500 grams (a bottle). Don't mix
vodka, beer or Champaign, like some Russians may do. It's
a dangerous stuff. You will get drunk fast and the next
day feel in a hell.
If you visit a family or some kind of a party, than the
best policy is to taste a little of alcohol and explain
that you "do want to drink", but has a liver
problems and is under medications. Resolute statements
like: "I don't drink at all" can challenge a
bet to pester you with requests for drinking.
Bootleg business if highly developed in Khabarovsk and
controlled by Azerbajanian Mafia.. Don't buy alcohol in
small shops, from street vendors and at the city markets.
The real safe and good alcohol are sold in special
"Russian Vodka", "Ussurysky Balsam",
and some other big stores.
There are few beer bars in the big cities of Khabarovsk
Krai, where you can buy good German and Dutch beer. Also,
there are a variety of good beer brands produced by local
company "AmurPivo". They have good quality and
enjoy high reputation.
CAVEAT EMPTOR: Do not buy canned
beer labeled "Made in USA", like "Red
Bull" brand or other similar stuff. Majority of such
counterfeited products comes from Poland and China. After
one or two cans of such stuff you may fall absolutely
drunk.
Shopping
Money: You can exchange US$, Japanese Yen and German
Marks without any problems in Khabarovsk banks and
Currency Exchanges. To do that you must show them your
travel passport.
Do not exchange currency on the street or with
individuals, who usually hang around currency exchange,
even if they offer a better rate. Police often reports
about tricks with counterfeited or Old Russian bills.
This kind of guys is called "Kydaly" -
Spanners.
The times when aliens traveled to Russia bringing their
rolls of toilet paper has gone forever. You can buy a
majority of imported western products and goods in
Khabarovsk stores.
I've met an American who came with two trunks full of
different stuff and was much surprised to find the same
set in Khabarovsk stores.
The best places for shopping are Trade Centers and City
Markets. They work from 10 a.m. until 6 p.m. without
lunch break.
Trade Center - looks like a city market
located inside an office building, rather than a Mall.
There are many small entrepreneurs selling their imported
products and goods. Most of their products are from China
and Korea, but few sell European, Canadian, and USA
quality goods. The biggest Trade Centers in Khabarovsk
are "Serysheva 60" and "Singapore".
Usually you can not bargain about the price in a Trade
Center.
City Markets. There are few big
"Flea Markets" in Khabarovsk. We call them
"Barakholka". Private Company "Ali"
owns many Khabarovsk markets. The most popular one is
Vyborgskaya Barakholka. It is better travel to Barakholka
by commercial bus. Today one way ticket is 3 Rbls. To
enter the market gates you will have to pay another 1
Rbl. It's a big open site crowded with petty vendors and
buyers. A big left corner is allocated for Chinese
salesmen. Here you can find a variety of cheap goods
imported or smuggled from China and Korea. It is strange
that some goods are cheaper in Khabarovsk Barakholka than
in Harbin markets in China.
Bargain at the City Markets is often appreciated. You can
discount the price by 25-30%.
Transportation
Cars and Public Transportation.
During Soviets a private car was considered as the "
luxury piece" and few families could enjoy it. From
the beginning of 1990-s the Russian Far East was flooded
with used cheap Japanese (right steering wheel) cars. It
created many environmental and other city infrastructure
problems, like bad roads, parking, and garages.
Still many Russians prefer to use a public bus, which is
much cheaper and create less problems. Today the public
bus fare for the city routes is flat, from 2 to 3 Rubles,
and does not depend on distance. You buy a fare ticket
directly from conductor (Konduktor) inside the bus.
Buses are usually overcrowded during peak hours from 8-9
a.m. and from 5 to 7 p.m.
Long distance buses to the neighboring towns leave from
Central Buss Station located close to the train station.
The fare varies according to distance from 20 to 50 Rbls.
Taxi. Khabarovsk taxi has no counter and you have to
negotiate the fee. Also, many Russians use their private
cars to earn money and you can stop car by just standing
near the road with raised right hand. No free hitchhike
is available now, and any way you will have to pay the
ride.
River Transportation, Airports, Train.
From May to October many people travel to their dachas or
sandy beaches by a ferryboat. For longer distance are
used hydrofoils, which come down Amur-River until
Nikolayevsk. Boats leave from the River Station located
close to Komsomolskaya Square.
The short one-day hydrofoil tours to China and 2 hours
ferryboat tours along Khabarovsk are available.
Khabarovsk has one International and two domestic
airports located in the same area. The Small Domestic
Airport (Maly Aeroport) is used for flights to the small
towns of Khabarovsk Krai.
Travel from the downtown to the airports by trolleybus
takes 40 minutes.
Please remember that booking for the flight in Russia
ends at 1 hour and boarding the plane at 30 minutes prior
to the scheduled departure. So, you may have problems
missing the established time limits and miss you plane.
Khabarovsk has one train station of the Trans-Siberian
railroad located in the down town area. You can reach it
by public bus.
Local resident prefer to travel to Vladivostok (Pacific
coast) by train, which leaves at 7 p.m. and arrives to
Vladivostok at 9 a.m. Non-stop driving by car usually
takes about 14-16 hours.
Thank you for you
time.
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