Topic: Anecdotes
My good friend, Makiko, invited me to her wedding reception June 3, 2006. Her wedding was the month before, but in Japan the reception is often, or maybe usually, a different day. Also, the ceremony is usually much smaller and might only include family. Makiko's wedding was very small; only for immediate family, so this was a chance to invite all their friends. There were about 100 people there!
I had never been to one before. So I thought it would be a great opportunity to experience a unique cultural experience. Of course, I've known Makiko since my first week or two at Nova, so I really wanted to be a part of her wedding reception.
The reception was held from 7 to about 9 at a restaurant called Grace Bali in Kabuki-cho. The standard practice is for guests to pay for the entrance which was 10,000 yen (about $85). A buffet and free drinks were provided. The reception was held in a building that has a bar, restaurant, and a karaoke place.
I arrived early, so I decided to walk over to another part of Kabuki-cho to check out showtimes for The Da Vinci Code. (I had bought an advance ticket for it a few days earlier. See my movie blog on it--and other movies.) Kabuki-cho is known for being a little raunchy and run-down--deservedly so. Two barkers tried to lure me into two separate establishments for some cheap sex on the way over to the movie theater area. "Full sex" is what one of them offered. Every time I go near Kabuki-cho at night some sleazy guy tires to catch my attention with offers of "full sex," What is full sex? Is there half-sex?
The other barker extended a hand, palm down, and stuck out his pinky. In Japan that gesture means "women," or "girls," but of course, Westerners don't know that. Non-Japanese must be puzzled as to what he's selling when he sticks out his pinky like that. Anyway, it only took me about 10 minutes to walk over and back, and then I was back at the restaurant again.
Makiko gave me some directions last week, but I lost them, so I went to the wrong place. I thought the party was at the karaoke place, so I spent about 20 minutes stumbling up and down the stairs trying to find the party. (The building itself was about 5 or 6 floors, and the karaoke place was three floors (It was called Pasela.) Elevators in those kinds of restaurants are almost useless--incredibly slow. I tried calling Makiko, but her phone was off. Finally, while calling her, I saw a flyer from Grace Bali and remembered that the reception was there and not at the karaoke place.
Outside the restaurant was a small reception area where guests were checked-in, and were able to check large bags--like my ubiquitous, big, black, laptop backpack. Then the lady there pulled out a guest list and found my name quickly--even though there must have been about 100 names. It wasn't too hard. My name was the only one in English. All the others were in Chinese characters.
Inside the restaurant were about 4-5 round tables. There were no chairs at them, though! It was pretty dark, and there was a kind-of-stage to the left. There were three monitors around that end that were showing some snowboarding stuff. Off to the right of the entrance was a long buffet table with small pizzas, melons, pasta, beef and vegetables, and a desert. About 30 or so chairs were lined up around the perimeter against the walls.
I was the only non-Japanese there, so naturally, I attracted a lot of attention when I entered. There were a couple of MC's there, and one of them directed me to filling out a piece of paper with my name, address, and phone number. Makiko had told me to be sure to turn on my cellphone and write down my info on the form. It was for a drawing.
After I wrote down my info and the MC put it in the drawing box, I tried to relax and soak in the atmosphere. Makiko told me that a lot of people would be going there straight from work, so they would probably be in dress clothes. I went there straight from work at B., too, but weekends are casual at B, so I was in khakis. Everyone seemed to be much better dressed than me, so I felt a little awkward, but I forgot about it soon enough.
Soon a call was made from the podium to toast the newlyweds, and all of us guests were given glasses of champagne. I didn't want to drink, so I had to carry around the glass for a while. Five minutes later I put it at an empty table when no one was looking.
I decided to go over and greet Makiko and her new husband, so I headed in that direction. There was a kind of open, round wooden water tank with a ladle in it that had some significance, but I never could figure it out. It looked a lot like the water purification station at Yasukuni Shrine where visitors grab a ladle and pour water over their hands to cleanse them before going to pray.
I said hello to Makiko, but her husband was really busy talking to some of his friends, so I didn't have a chance to meet him then. I got out of the way when a large group came over for a few group photos.
Around that time a drunk young man came over to try out his English on me. Unfortunately for me, he spent a couple of painful minutes trying to badger me into a glass of beer. He had a bottle he wanted to share. I know it's rude to refrain from liquor at festive occasions, especially when directly asked, but I am a contrary bastard, so I do what I like. I refused him 4-5 times; I think he really felt I would cave in, so it must have been awkward for him when he realized that I really wasn't going to drink with him. Maybe he thought I was just being shy or polite. But that's a new resolution of mine: I am not going to drink. The guy left. He must think I'm a jerk for not drinking with him.
After that, a few very polite women approached me as a group. That's one of the best things about Japanese women. They are so polite when they approach a stranger, especially a foreigner. Women here are naturally shy and demure, but very curious about foreigners. They can muster up some courage if a handsome devil like me comes into their world. How often do they have a chance to meet a foreigner in a safe environment with all their friends around? They feel more comfortable in groups.
They were sweet. They were all nursing students from Makiko's nursing school in Meguro. They were very excited to know that I was Makiko's friend and not a friend of the groom. It¿s pretty dangerous for a girl here to be too close friends with a foreigner--some Japanese men would be very unhappy to know their girlfriend had a big brute like me as a close friend. I was glad I could claim to be her teacher. I think it makes it more acceptable for her to know me and invite me to her wedding.
I chatted with them briefly, mostly in English, and considered giving one of them my card for possible dating, but decided not to. She was cute and friendly, but I make it a point not to just try to pick up any cute girl that smiles at me or is nice to me. There has to be some kind of personality or psychic connection. I'm not a savage.
Next up was dinner. I had waited to get some food till most of the guests had passed through the line. It was pretty crowded, so I didn't want to go before. All the desert was gone before I got there. One thing about food in Japan is that I can always eat the desert. Japanese like prissy, European-style sweets, which are fine by me, although I could do without the fancy presentations--the sweets always seem to be arranged on the plate in an artistic, complicated way that adds absolutely nothing to the taste.
By the time I got to the buffet line, there was nothing left but Japanese-style pizza (tortilla-thin crust and usually weird toppings), some fried vegetables, and cold pasta--damn! I was hungry too. I took a slice of sausage pizza without any unconvential toppings and put an onion and fried pepper on it for bulk. I would've have taken some pasta, too, but they had to ruin it with shrimp. I might eventually eat a non-smelly fish, but no damn insect-like crustaceans (shrimp, crabs, and lobster, etc.) for me in this life. That's a promise.
After dinner the drawing began. Maybe first, the MC's had Makiko draw the first winner out of the box. She pulled a paper out, and of the MC's dialed the cell number of the first winner. I was praying I wouldn't win. The MC's made a big deal out of handing the winners the microphone for a thank you to the crowd and the happy newlyweds. Also, I felt like I was an outsider, so I didn't want to take a gift away from one of the natives. I didn't think I deserved to win. Actually, Makiko criticized me for my bad attitude later--she was absolutely right! I really was wrong; dead wrong. But at the time I was really sweating it out every time they called a number.
Each winner came to the front and said thanks on the mic. Then he or she picked the next winner from the drawing box and dialed that winner's cellphone on their own cellphone. The prizes got successively bigger and better as the drawing went on. It was a cute game.
There were 10 gifts in all, and they were pretty nice. The top three turned out to be: an HDD/DVD recorder; a Sony Wega TV; and a trip for two to a tropical vacation spot. (I couldn't tell where, but there was a picture of a pretty beach in the photo.) The gifts were unknown until the winner came up to collect them. Then an MC would announce what it was. Actually, I couldn't understand what some of them were; my Japanese failed me.
As the drawing progressed, I was in the back. I was still cringing every time a new name was called, hoping it wouldn't be me. I just knew I was going to be called, and I was dreading it. Part of my guilt was based on the realization that everyone else was so young. They all looked like students, so I felt they needed the gifts more than I did. I'm a rich English teacher!
Finally, my phone started ringing and I went to the front. People seemed shocked to see the foreigner win. There was only one of me in a group of 100! But they were excited for me. They seemed to be happy I won something. I won the HDD/DVD recorder/player! Of course, the MC gave me the mic--he wasn't going to spare me the humiliation of saying thanks to a huge crowd in broken Japanese. He said in Japanese, "good luck!" before giving over the mic. I stuttered out, "Thank you," and gave him back the mic. Then I pulled out the next winners name and called her on my phone. I was happy to let her take my place in front of the stage.
Later, we listened to some very emotional taped addresses from Makiko's parents. I think they were talking about her childhood, wishing her good luck, and offering advice for a happy marriage. Tears welled up in my eyes; it was very emotional. Makiko was crying too.
At the end, Makiko's husband addressed the crowd. He thanked all of us for coming, and then apologized for the circumstances surrounding the wedding. I guess he felt guilty or bad that Makiko was pregnant and he wanted to explain the situation. It was unnecessary. In the US, shotgun weddings are as common as obesity and frivolous lawsuits. I certainly understand their situation well. I wish them the best in life!
I finally had a chance to meet the groom on the way out. He was gracious, but maybe a little nervous meeting a big old gorilla like me. I'm planning to go to dinner with the happy couple soon, so I can properly introduce myself to him.
The newlyweds gave all guests a small gift (manicure set) on the way out.
What a great experience!
I'm using the HDD/DVD recorder to transfer all my Japanese TV dramas to DVD. What a great toy! I brought about 50 tapes (more than 100 hours of shows) to Japan with me in February when I came back to Japan. The first one I'm transferring is Bluebird. How tragic and romantic! You have to see it!
Updated: Wednesday, 21 June 2006 1:19 AM KDT
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