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INTRODUCTION
Syros is a relatively small island, but when your ferry sails into the harbour of the capital Ermoupolis it's quite an impressive sight, no matter if it's day or night. Ermoupolis is the biggest of the Cycladic towns and also the Capital of the islandgroup. The waterfront and its environments is backed by two hills, each topped with a church (set in heavy lights if you arrive during the night), one Roman Catholic and the other Orthodox. The island of Syros is quite barren and it has a few hills. You will not find the beautiful kind of beaches that you will for instance find on Mykonos, allthough some of the beaches like for instance Galissos or the fabulous Kini beach are not bad at all. Syros you visit for the Greek feeling, the culture and because you want to see something different. The capitol with all its little stairs, old buildings and churches is worth a visit on its own. The island of Syros, with its 86 square kilometers area is sort of a "stranger" in the group of the Cyclades islands. It is rather small and even drier compared to some neighbouring islands, but if you fly over it with a plane or sail on a ferry into the port and you set eyes for the first time on the capital Ermoupolis, you immediately understand that this is a very different kind of island than the more populair destinations like Mykonos, Paros or Santorini. What immediately strikes you is the size of the capital Ermoupolis, the largest city in the Cyclades, and once the main Greek port, nominated to be the capital to the whole of Greece. Also, there are no typical white cubic houses like you see on the other Cycladic islands. The houses are large and stately, and the style is classic and neo-classic. Ermoupolis looks nothing like the other Greek harbors in the Cyclades, but rather as a city like Paris. On the left side of the harbour are tankers, and there are high cranes. There are also ships in the dry-docks to be cleaned up. Most of them former ferries from distant countries, which are in this capital to get a lick of paint and new carpet before they will sail between the Greek islands. There is plenty of activity in the port and on the quay where the ferries arrive, and cars drive off and on. My advice is this: look beyond this, because on second glance, the island is not so busy as you would think. Behind the quay where all traffic is you find yourself directly in the silence. A lot of roads are not suitable for cars, just because they are steep and there are stairs instead. Because Syros does not have many beautiful beaches there are no cruise boats, and tourists are inclined to sail past the island. Partly because of this is the island remained authentic, with better and cheaper restaurants than on the more commercial neighbouring islands, and lower prices for people who look for an accommodation. |
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ERMOUPOLIS, CAPITAL OF THE CYCLADES Ermoupolis is not a typical Cycladic city with white cubic houses, but instead you will find a lot of large houses of the nineteenth century (I though it had a bit an art-nouveau look, neo-classical, and sometimes it felt like walking through Paris). The buildings on the hill where the Roman Catholic church stands, form the old original Chora. If you want to go to one of the two churches on the hills be prepared to climb many stairs. The views you get as a reward will be great. I think this is really a nice city, because it is so different from any other places that I have seen on the Greek islands. There is also a relaxed atmosphere and the people are very friendly, not stressed or busy, what you might expect in a city of this size. Ermoupolis has got the largest historic city centre of all the cities in Greece. To discover Ermoupolis you will need at least two days, and a great number of bottles of water: it is big and there are lots of stairs. Every now and then you need to get some rest from all the climbing. The city is "crowned" by an Orthodox and a Roman Catholic church that both stand on its own hill. Both are worth to visit, even if it is only for the spectacular views that you have when you have arrived on the destination. The most beautiful walk (and most tiresome) is without doubt the walk to the Roman Catholic church on the hill Ano Syros. The streets that lead to it are really beautiful. I recommend to take a different route take back than the one you used climbing up so you will see even more of this unspoilt Chora and all its lovely buildings and small churches. In many places there are flowers and gigantic bougainvillas. The paths go up and down and around every corner there is a surprise. On top you have the most beautiful views of the city and the port. This church and the Greek Orthodox one are both open to the public, so you can even look inside. It's quiet, because not many people want to make the climb, especially when it is hot. The Roman Catholic Church is also prettier on the inside than the Greek Orthodox church, with big light blue vaults and a Jesus on the cross. In the evening, both churches are put in the spotlights. The heart of Ermoupolis is Miaouli square with the large Town Hall from 1898, where you are reminded just how important the city has been in the nineteenth century. The stately building is flanked by huge palm trees and has the grandeur of a palace. In a lot of places in the city there is the most expensive pavement, because everywhere is marble instead of stone or asphalt. In the evening, it seems as if all the inhabitants of the port Ermoupolis come to to the port to eat and drink, and to be seen. There is a cozy Greek crowd of families with children that populate the many restaurants and cafes, and groups of young people groups stroll along the quay. There are not that many tourists, but it's really pleasant. It seems as if the people do not watch television or concern about the household. Instead, they are all enjoy the evenings outside. |
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My Hotel: the Ethrion Hotel in Ermoupolis
I don't think anything van beat the location and the value you get for your money of the hotel where I stayed. The Ethrion Hotel in Ermoupolis has beautiful views, beautiful and large rooms and it's an overall friendly run family type of hotel. It's situated about 100 meters off the harbour and the main square, up the hill, on a quiet spot. All the studios and rooms have either a terrace or a balcony and there is a beautiful garden with grapes that comes with this charming hotel, a spot where you can enjoy your glass of Greek wine or an ouzo :)! For the ones that love to check their emails while they are travelling: there is free internet access and if you bring your laptop you can even check your mailbox on that because there is a wifi hotspot with a wireless connection. If you want to discover this interesting town than this would be an ideal place to stay at. Ermoupolis has lots to offer and to be discovered. It's an interesting town, and quite different from other Cycladic towns in a good way. From Ermoupolis it's also easy to explore the rest of the island, because all the busses to the different parts of the island, and the beaches, depart from here (if you don't want to rent a car). Ethrion is a quiet spot where you can relax, to see all the life in the city from your balcony, or pretend you are on a deserted island when you are in the garden. It's really awesome. Telephone: (0030) 2281089066 Mobile phone.: (+30) 6778880376 Fax: (0030) 2281079486
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SOME MORE
Most of the terraces and the restaurants in Ermoupolis are in the harborfront. One of them is a a very good restaurant that is called Karavostasi and it's close to the spot where the ferries dock. Oposite the harbor of Ermoupolis is the island of Gaideronisi. It is the very small unpopulated island with a lighthouse on it. It is the first lighthouse in Greece. It has been repaired and since 1859 transmits 1 white flash every 2 minutes showing the entrance of the port. In the centre of the town is Miaouli Square, with the impressive Town Hall, surrounded by cafes, with a grandeur all its own. Syros has regular connections with the other islands. We took the speedboat from Nel-lines to Paros after our visit to Syros. We also visited a very nice beach at Kini. Take a look! |
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Hans Huisman www.angelfire.com/super2/greece 2006 2008