R I V I N G T E C H N I Q U E S
F O R E S C A P E
A N D E V A S I O N W R I T T E N B Y : Ronald George Eriksen 2 T Y P E D B Y : THE CAT - Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Many people have become concerned with the dramatic rise in
assassinations and kidnappings in recent years. A great number
of these attacks have occured while the victim was in his car.
The purpose of this book is to instruct the reader in the proper
handling of his vehicle in event of such an attack.
This book is also for those who plan to be driving with a
suspended licence, robbing stores or banks, pulling hit & runs,
or anything else you might get chased by police for.
The skills of a grand prix driver are not necessary to learn
these maneuvers. A few days of practice is all that is needed.
The time spent practicing is trivial when you consider what
might happen if you are not prepared.
OTHER FILES TYPED BY "THE CAT"
Ottawa-Nepean-Gloucester-Vanier Police Frequency List (ONGVPRL)
- This file contains a list of police radio frequencies for the
Ottawa-Carelton (CANADA) region.
Also includes list of 10-xx codes from 10-01 to 10-100.
- How to hide stuff for now - or forever (HFNOFE)
VEHICLE RECOMMENDATIONS Page 1
The maneuvers in this book can be done in just about any car.
The only cars which are completely unsuitable are the jeep type
vehicles. Although ideal for going off road, jeeps have a great
tendency to tip over during high cornering. This may also apply
to pickup trucks with no weight in the rear.
The ideal vehicle is one that is powerful, easy to handle, and
above all else, reliable. German-made cars usually rate high in
all respects, however the Volkswagan "Rabbit" is far to small
and underpowered for chase situations.
Although there are some notable exeptions, neither American or
Japanese cars are too well known for their handling and
performance qualities. They are made to give a soft cushy ride
and little else. If you have to buy one of these, try to avoid
small economy types (OMNI, TERCEL, etc) and oversized rolling
boats (Large BUICKS and OLDSMOBILES).
Also to be avoided are expensive and fancy cars such as the
Ferrari or Lotus. Although a pleasure to drive, the fact that
stand out so much makes them a prime target for attack or theft.
With three to choose from; Front wheel drive, Rear wheel drive
or Four wheel drive which is best? It's obvious that four wheel
drive would be ideal for going off road, however the maximum
speed of a vehicle in four wheel drive is greately reduced. It
is also well known that a front wheel drive is best in handling
through snow, however rear wheel drive is the way to go. The
exotic turns such as the Bootlegger is possible only with rear
Having talked to people on both sides of each argument I have
also determined that an automatic transmission is best because
not having to worry about clutch and gears have helped many.
It is also recommended that the car has power steering & brakes
because of the easy during cornering.
Listed below are modifications which will enchance both the
performance and reliability of any vehicle. Also listed are
modifications which will serve as deterrents to an attck.
1 - Tires:
Get the best radial tires you can afford to buy or
steal. Radials offer increased durability, superior
handling, and better gas mileage than old-fashioned
bias ply tires. Also, to some degree, radials are
bullet resistant. Be sure to slightly overinflate
all four tires and to fill them with run flat foam
(available in auto supply and department stores).
2 - Heavy Duty Radiator:
Hard driving, hot weather and rough terrain make for
overheated engines. A heavy duty radiator will help
prevent rapid overheating.
3 - Heavy Duty Shocks and Springs:
Other than good tires, nothing will improve your car's
handling more than top quality shocks and springs.
As tires, price is the indication of quality so get
the best you can afford.
4 - Stainless Steel Brake Lines:
Rubber brake lines have been known to swell and flex,
causing the brakes to fade. Stainless steel brake lines
are used in racing competition and are recommended
particularly to those living in mountainous areas.
5 - Heavy Duty Steering Pump:
If your car has power steering, a series of quick turns
might cause the steering fluid to foam, making steering
extremely difficult. A heavy duty steering pump serves
to prevent this.
6 - Heavy Duty Battery:
Adding additional lights and communications gear to a
car is great cause for using a heavy duty battery.
7 - Lights:
You should replace your old-fashioned sealed beam
headlights with quartz-iodine lights. These give off
twice the light and enable you to drive much faster at
night. Quartz-iodine headlights can be bought for
almost any vehicle. You might also consider mounting
additional lights on your vehicle. Auxillary lights
should be mounted low and angled slightly outward.
Four high instensity spotlights should be mounted high
on your vehicle. These will effectively blind any
pursuer. Three of the spotlights should be aimed to the
front; one will be aimed straight ahead and the other
two will be angled slightly outward. The fourth light
should be aimed to the rear. Another must for any
situation in which you are carrying a passenger is
a hand held spotlight of 300000 - 1000000 candlelight.
These are readily available at fishing/hunting stores
and are well worth the money as they can be aimed
directely at the eyes of the other driver and held in
place by the passenger.
9 - Cut Out Switches:
Cut out switches enable you to independently control
each light on your vehicle. The addition or elimination
of lights at night will alter the appearance of your
vehicle and might allow you to lose a pursuer.
10- Vehicle Alarm System:
A good alarm system should not only guard against theft
but tampering as well. I recommend the model offered
at Radio Shack, # 49-795, or more economically # 49-791.
Both these types have built in transmitters of up to
two miles which will trigger a pager on your person at
the time. A loudspeaker can be attatched with each
but you may not want to scare the attackers off as you
can have the fun in dealing with them at your advantage.
There are many problems involved in the armouring of
vehicles, not the least of which is cost. A bargain
basement job offering some protection against a .30 cal
rifle might cost you about $20000. A fully armoured
vehicle capable of withstanding repeated hits from a .30
cal rifle will run you about $200000. Most of us don't
have that kind of money lying around.
Another problem with armouring is that there is no such
things as bullet proof glass. There is only "bullet
resistant" glass. During the attempted assassination of
U.S. president Ronald Reagan,a round from the assailant's
lowly .22 pistol penetrated the glass on the presidential
Yet another problem associated with armouring is the
weight added to the vehicle. A 25% increase in vehicle
weight will cause a corresponding decrease in the
vehicle's handling capabilities.
If you can't afford the high cost of a full armour job
then I suggest that you affix a half-inch steel plate
to the back of each seat. For most evasive maneuvers in
this text, the only clear shot sombody will have is to
the rear of your vehicle. While the half-inch plate
won't protect you against all weapons, it does offer
inexpensive protection against pistol rounds.
Even though C.B. radios are a virtual party line, the
fact that somebody is always listening could prove useful
in an emergency. Also to be considered is the use of
two way radios between cars and/or home. For those who
plan to be pursued by police I recommend one or both of
the two following scanners; Mobile mounted - # 20-113
(20-119 for those with money) or portable - # 20-133.
A scanner is extremely useful in finding out where road
blocks are being set up to stop YOU. Police do not have
time to use the CPIC system when in high speed pursuit.
13- Siren and Oscillating Light:
A siren and oscillating light will attract attention in
the event of a high speed pursuit. Because police frown
on civilian use of them be sure you have good cause.
14- Locking Gas Cap:
If you don't have one, get one. Many pranksters,
vandals, and people who have read the Hayduke series are
known for putting things like salt, sugar, iron filings,
etc into a car's gas tank. Also, as seen in The Poor Mans
James Bond, a gas tank can be blown up simply be dropping
a few specialy filled geletain capsules into the tank.
15- Gun and Crowbar in Trunk:
Kidnappers and "tough guy" security guards have been
known to throw their victim into the trunk of his own car.
A gun and prying instrument could prove useful in your
16- Pressurized Oil Slick:
A pressurized device which sprays oil onto the roadway
will eliminate almost any pursuer. If applied going 100
km (60 miles) down the road nearing a corner you don't
have much to worry about. Look in reference section for
books on manufacture.
Calthrops are metal spikes constructed so that one point
is always up when thrown or dropped. If thrown onto the
roadway to your rear they will flatten the tires of any
pursuing vehicle. One company which offers calthrops is
Beaver Products, PO Box 1580, Anna Maria, FL 33501.
18- Thick Bolt Through Tailpipe:
A thick heavy bolt put through the tail pipe and welded
into place will certainly save you pulling tomatoes from
the exhaust,not to mention shotguns shells in the muffler.
A cheap but effective smokescreen can be made as follows.
First drill a hole into the exhaust manifold of your car,
and weld the nozzle of a small plant sprayer over it. A
gas line is then run from the nozzel to a pump containing
castor oil inside the vehicle. Clouds of smoke are
produced by pumping castor oil into the hot exhaust pipe.
If you are being chased by police and they are truely
foolish enough to drive through the smoke, someone has to
stop for all the panic-stricken drivers on the road. By
the way, in Canada, even being in the care of a car which
is capable of producing a smoke screen can get you 14 yrs.
20- Reinforced Ram Bumpers:
Bumpers can be reinforced by bolting or welding extra
supports from the vehicle frame to the bumper. Further
reinforcement can be made by welding a two-inch metal pipe
to the vehicle frame, right in back of the bumper. These
extra reinforcements could prove useful in a ramming
21- Survival and First Aid Kit:
A good emergency survival kit, including an extra jack,
and a first aid kit should be in every car. If you really
don't want to spent the cash on a kit - take a look inside
the nearest School Bus. A good survival kit should also
include a hatchet, rope, and gasoline.
Both terrorists and everyday street criminals operate in a
fashion similar to predatory animals -- they will usually choose
the weakest prey or the easiest mark to attack. Likewise if
you are a criminal any investigating officers or detectives can
be put out simply by being security conscious at all times.
What follows are some general security recommendations which
can by easily implemented when in or around your vehicle.
recommendations will be your first line of defence.
(1) Vary the times and routes to and from work. Avoid fixed
scheduals and routines.
(2) Have thorough knowledge of the area you are driving in,
this includes country roads and long detours.
(3) Avoid getting "boxed-in" in traffic when possible.
(4) Always park so that you have a fast exit from your space.
(5) Don't make it a habbit to stop for hitchhikers. (Unless you
have a pick up truck and put them in the back).
(6) If possible, try to keep on the major thoroughfares.
(7) Know the shortest routes to police stations, hospitals,
army outposts, etc.
(8) Check rear view mirrors frequently and remember details
about cars immediately behind you.
(9) Inform someone of your destination and ETA.
(10) Be wary of groups of men in uniform (joggers, cops, etc).
(11) Never trust anyone with your keys.
(12) Avoid construction areas.
(13) Always keep gas tank at least half full.
(14) Never depend on a chauffer. Drive yourself.
(15) If your car has been left alone, check it thoroughly for
tampering before driving it.
(16) If suspicious people are observed loitering your vehicle
and your alarm hasn't gone off, avoid it.
Obviously, not everyone need be so concerned with their
personal safety. The security needs of someone living in Ottawa,
Canada will be considerably differen't from someone living in
El Salvador. You alone have to determine what your particular
One off the keys to avoiding a confrontation is recognizing
when you are under surveillance. In most planned kidnappings,
muggings, and arrests the victims are under surveillance for
a period of time prior to the confrontation. The observation
period may range from one day to even several months prior.
In order to stop a confrontation before it takes place you
must develop a surveillance awareness. To develop this ability
you must be constantly alert to suspicious people in the
vicinity of you home and at work. This especially goes for
those who live in an area where houses are spread greatly apart.
In stalking their victims, cops and terrorists have posed as
laborers, hookers, derilects, and used numerous other ruses. I
do not expect you to become a raving paranoid constantly on red
alert against everyone and everything, but it should be in the
back of your mind that someone's eyes might be watching you.
The easiest type of surveillence to detect is when you are
being followed by a single surveillant. The loner must stay
close enough to keep you in sight, yet far enough away to avoid
detection -- no easy feat. In residential areas, he can remain
a few cars back because of the density of traffic. Also he has
the option of following the victim on a parallel street. In
rural areas, about all he can do is remain well back and hope
for the best.
The single tail may employ certain tricks of the trade to make
his jop easier. At night, he may break a taillight or place a
small luminous sticker on the rear of the victim's vehicle to
make it more distinguishable. To decrease the possibility of
detection, he may change his seating position or use various
types of disguise.
If you suspect you are being followed by a single tail, try
things like speeding through some areas and going slow through
others. The signal lights can be used to your advantage if you
come up to an intersection; try signaling right and wait until
your suspects signal comes on - just drive straight through with
your signal on and see what happens.
Professional investigators, whether governmental or private,
rarely conduct a surveillance using a single unit. The risk of
getting burned is just too great.
This type of surveillance is conducted by two or more vehicles.
One vehicle tails the victim at a reasonable distance. His
comrades follow on parallel streets ready to take up close
surveillance should the victim turn. (See figure 1). Obviously,
this method will not work in areas without parallel roads.
The tailing and lead vehicles must be in radio contact for this
method to be effective. If regular CB radios are used I would
suggest creating a short and simple code as you never know who is
listening -- maybe even the guy your tailing?!
The most effective means of tailing a vehicle is with a bumper
beeper. An electronic tailing device, the bumper beeper
attaches to the underside of the victims car. The device sends
beeping signals to a receiver in the tailing vehicle. The closer
the tailing vehicle gets to the target vehicle, the louder the
beeps become. The more sophisticated beepers are equipped with
a null switch, whereby a different tone in the beep is produced
if the victim turns right or left. Bumper beepers have an
effective range of 2 to 12 km (1 to 5 miles). They are usually
attached to the vehicle with powerful magnets, although heavy
metal clamps are sometimes used. Beepers can be either battery
powered or attached directly to the target vehicle's own
To determine if you are the victim of these dreaded devices,
first make a complete visual inspection of the underside of
your vehicle. What you are looking for is a small metal box
with one or two skinny antennas sticking out of it.
If your search turns up nothing, go out and buy a field
strength meter (Radio Shack # 25-525). These devices detect
all radio transmissions. With meter in hand and car ignition on,
check in, on, and especially under your car. If you are a
victim of a bumper beeper you will find it.
It is a commonly held belief that the best way to handle
corners is to blast through them as quickly as possible. This
is completely wrong. The speed at which you exit a corner is
much more important than the speed at which you take the corner
itself. Assuming identicle cars, the car which exits the corner
at the greater speed will be going faster on any straight
stretch of road that follows.
The apex of any turn is that
POINT IN WHICH YOUR WHEELS ARE
CLOSEST TO THE INSIDE EDGE OF THE CORNER. By choosing a
relatively late apex, the driver can exit a corner at a greater
speed than if he had chosen an early one.
Figure 3 shows how to handle a 90-degree turn. This is the
most common type of turn, particularly in urban areas.
This turn is begun as far to the outside as possible.
Obviously, if there is a lot of traffic on the road, you are
going to have to ajust your turn. In that case, drive as far to
the outside as you can within the confines of your lane.
Approaching the corner, gradually increase braking pressure to
heavy braking. Be careful not to lock the brakes, as all this
does is prevent you from steering. If you feel any of the brakes
locking up, let off for an instant, then reapply braking.
After downshifting (manual transmissions only), start trailing
off the brakes into the first third of the turn. Then gradually
increase the throttle to full acceleration coming out of the
An S type turn is a series of turns in which the road winds
with small degree on alternating sides (A giant S). Actually,
this need not be a turn at all, as you can go straight through
it. Remember to set yourself up to take full advantage of any
straight that might follow.
Figure 4 shows how to handle a
constant radius, or
turn. The illustration is pretty much self-explanatory. Don't
go too fast on these turns, as you can easily end up off the
The cornering techniques show in this chapter are those taught
in anti-terrorist driving schools throughout the world. The
instructors at these schools are first-rate and among the best
drivers in the world. However, I beliece they make a serious
mistake when they spend 70% of the course time teaching
cornering techniques. My reasons for saying are:
1) If you are involved in a chase situation (with you being
the one pursued) it is very possible that you will be
unfamiliar with the area you are driving in. If you don't
know what kind of turn or corner is ahead, how can you set
yourself up to take it properly? Obviously, you can't.
Also, with traffic coming in all directions and pedestrians
on the road, proper cornering technique goes out the window.
2) As mentioned previously, by taking a late apex, you can
exit a corner at greater speed than if you had taken an
earlier one. However, if your pursuer takes an early
apex while you take a late one, there is a chance (albeit
a small one) that he can catch you in a turn. This is
because he actually gets through the corner quicker than
you. After the turn if he hasn't quite caught up you'll
take off much faster than he will.
What does all this mean? If you are in a superior car to
that of your pursuer and you have a big enough lead on him
(say a couple of car lengths) it is probably worthwhile to
take turns with a late apex. However, if you are in an
inferior car or a pursuer is right on your tail, it is
extremely important not to let him pull up alongside you.
By taking an early apex, you effectively prevent him from
The examples of corners shown in this chapter are
representative of what you face in everyday driving. By
mastering them, you should be able to handle any turn you might
The only way to become skilled at cornering is to practice.
The best place to practice is on back country roads at 3 am.
At this hour, there is usually no other traffic on the road.
Also, as most bars closer earlier, it gives all the drunks
plenty of time to make it home.
Legend has it that the bootlegger's turn was invented by
hillbilly moonshiners for the purpose of eluding revenue agents.
The maneuver ebables you to change your direction 180 degrees,
wothout stopping, within the width of a two lane road. It has
been used to get away from roadblocks and also to elude
The bootlegger's turn is easiest to perform in cars having an
automatic transmission and a hand emergency brake. See figure 5.
Angle of car during steps: 1 - 90 degrees 2 - 110 degrees
3 - 195 degrees 3b- 260 degrees
4 - 270 degrees (have turned 180)
The bootlegger's turn will cause incredible wear and tear on
your front tires. For this reason, it is recommended t hat you
learn how to do this maneuver on rental cars. Hertz, Avis,
Budget, etc., offer a wide variety of cars. You should be able
to find something similar to what you now drive. Needless to
say, don't tell the rental agency people what you are planning
to use their car for.
Movies such as The Driver, and TV programs such as The Dukes
of Hazzard often show the bootlegger's turn during their chase
scenes. The driving in these shows is done by professionals
and you can learn a lot just by watching them. You can also
learn a lot by watching auto races and demolition derbies, both
live and on TV.
The moonshiner's turn is another slick maneuver pioneered by
the slick mountain people of the Southern United States. Looking
like a bootlegger turn in reverse, the moonshiner's turn allows
you to change your direction 180 degrees within the confines of a
two lane road, while going backwards. See figure 6.
This maneuver is particularly effective against roadblocks at
night. Often the attackers manning the roadblock will use high
intensity lights to blind the victim as he approaches. By using
the moonshiner's turn, the victim's vision is directed away from
When being pursued and are approaching a roadblock there are
many paths to choose; you can perform an exotic turn, you can
jump a curb and go around (covered later), or ram the
roadblock (also covered later). It is up to you and the
situation to decide which to follow. Obviously if a 6 foot
ditch lies on either side of the road you can't go curb
jumping, but otherwise this can be a very good solution.
If you are being very closely followed by another vehicle and
they recognize your pulling a bootlegger turn it's possible that
they clould ram you (hitting the driver's door) possibly killing
you or at least doing excessive damage to the vehicle. Even if
a following vehicle is too far back to ram, it's possible that
the driver will pull a 90 degree turn placing his car in the
middle of the road. It's true that exotic turns may help but
don't forget that their probably not the last evasive maneuver
you'll make in a chase/roadblock situation. By the way, if
a follwing vehicle does happen to skid 90 degrees and block
your new path while he is still in the car - ram the driver
door if you've got time and it won't happen again.
The most common type of vehicle ambush is the stationary
roadblock. In this type of attack, on or two vehicles are lined
up across the road. The attackers will usually be standing
alongside the blockade vehicles with high intensity lights and
lots of firepower (automatic weapons and high powered rifles).
When the unwary and untrained victim sees the roadblock, he will
stop, whereupon the attackers will rush the vehicle and drag him
away. Faced with the above situation you might decide to ram.
To those of you who have experienced it only through television
shows, ramming may seem like a suicidal stunt reserved for Evel
Knievel types. Actually, as long as you wear a seat belt,
ramming is almost completely safe. The true danger of ramming is
that your vehicle may become inoperable after the collision. For
this reason, ramming is usually a method of last resort. If at
all possible, go around rather than ram a roadblock.
(1) Slow down almost to a complete stop and put the car in low
gear. This will give your attackers the impression that
you are going to stop.
(2) Suddenly hit the gas hard and pick a ramming point (below).
(3) Hit the target at an angle and keep the accelerator fully
depressed through the collision. Your speed at impact
should be between 30 and 50 km (15 - 30 mph).
(4) After breaking through, get out of the area fast. Even if
your car is badly damaged, keep going.
The ramming points on the blockade vehicle listed in order of
(1) the rear wheel and rear fender area;
front wheel and front fender area. If either end of the vehicle
is up against a curb or wall, you will have to ram through the
other end. A car can't drive with a bent out of shape axel.
Follow procedure as described in the ramming of a single
vehicle blockade exept the prefered ramming point is right
in the middle of the two cars. If any of the attackers are so
foolish as to get in front of you -- run them over.
To practice ramming, go to your local auto junkyard and buy
three running wrecks. Move all three to an unused parking lot or
abandoned area and practice per the directions above. For
safety's sake, wear a helmet and seatbelt. You might also want
to smash out all the glass ahead of time. Work with the three
cars until not one will even so much as start.
If you are the attcker and are able to catch up with the victim,
or you are the victim and are fortunate enough to get behind your
attacker's car, you can easily knock him off the road.
The most effective means of doing so is to ram his bumper on
the left hand side, with the right hand side of yours. As if
you were going to pass but didn't pull left far enough. You
should be going 15 to 35 km (10 to 20 mph) faster than he is as
you must HIT, not PUSH.
After impact, his vehicle will be facing slightly right and go
sliding sideways down the road until his tires regain traction.
When this happens, his car will go in the direction it is
pointing -- off the road.
A secondary effective method is one in which you would pull
alongside the rear of the enemy vehicle, very quickly turn to the
right enough to turn a corner and slam into his rear section --
you will actually be facing the edge of the road. This will
cause him to spin out and go off the road. Immediately after
impact, hit the brakes and countersteer to break contact.
If you don't want to hit the other vehicle hard, or it is much
larger and heavier than yours follow this procedure; Pull up
alongside the enemy vehicle and position yourself so as the
center of your vehicle is in line with the other vehicles front
tires. Now crank slightly to the left and press the center of
your car against the front of his -- now steer him off the road
and keep going.
A very common method of assassination is for an attacking
vehicle to pull alongside the victim's car and simply blast away
at everyone inside. If the driver is hit their all as good as
dead. The best defense against this type of attack is to slam
on the brakes, causing the attacker to overshoot your vehicle. A
bootlegger's turn could also be employed (if the shoulder of the
road is wide enough), or you could make a quick turn off the road.
** Keep in mind that after you slam on the brakes, a moonshiner's
turn may be the only escape -- pray for no on-comming traffic.
If you are faced with an attack from a motorcycle,ram him as hard
as possible, thereby ending the threat.
The most important thing to remember in any chase situation is
not to crash. Even if you should somehow make it through an
accident in one piece, you would be a sitting duck for any
pursuer. Because the probability of an accident is so great,
high speeds are not recommended in chase situations. By keeping
your spped relatively low, say under 100 km (60 mph), you will
have greater vehicle control and evasive maneuvers will be easier
to accomplish. Of coarse, if you have a superior car to that of
your pursuer, you can just flat outrun him on open roads.
The Overtaking Vehicle -- Never let anyone pull up alongside you.
If he does manage to position himself there, he is either going
to shoot, or try and run you off the road. If an attempt is
made to overtake you, it will probably be on your left side. To
make this more difficult, drive as far to the left as you
possibly can. Should he try to overtake you anyway, swerve in
front of him or attempt to run him off.
Special Devices -- Special devices such as smokescreens, oil
slicks, and spotlights should be employed just before turns. If
your pursuer is blinded or goes into a skid just before a turn,
he will very likely crash.
Going Off the Road -- It may be necessary to go of the road to
lose a pursuer. Be sure not to get stuck in a ditch or drive
into a dead end, however. It is surprising how far off the
road an ordinary car will actually go, if you drive it carefully.
Jumping Curbs -- Jumping a curb is a good way to avoid a road-
block as mentioned earlier. A curb can be easily jumped as long
as you remember to hit it at and angle of approximately 45 deg.
and at a speed under 70 km (45 mph).
Shooting -- Any passages that you intend to have shooting should
be seated in the back. This allows them to shoot in any
direction without interfering with the driver.
Targets of choice are the driver and front tires. For best
results, try to score a direct hit on the sidewall. Following
are the results of various tests done on junk cars with various
(1) No pistol round can be counted on to penetrate the vehicle
body or glass or tires. Pistol rounds will crack the glass
and deflect away. While the rounds used (.46 and 9mm) did
penetrate the tires, it took about 20 minutes for them to
go completely flat.
(2) Rifle rounds of .223 and .308 caliber will definitely
penetrate any unarmoured vehicle. The .308 flattened tires
much faster than the .223.
(3) Shotgun loads with the exception of slugs are useless for
stopping any vehicle. They won't penetrate the glass, body, or
tires. Slugs, however, will blast huge holes through the
vehicle and almost instantly flatten a tire.
If you absolutely cannot get away from your pursuers, you have
tried turning left in front of on-comming cars at intersections,
gone up one ways, etc. drive your car into a wooded area. When
your car won't go any further, get out and get behind cover. If
your pursuers are still intent on coming after you, they are
going to have to exit their vehicle. When they do, you can
(1) Read this book thoroughly and know in your mind how to do
(2) Learn to do the bootlegger's turn first. This maneuver is
relatively easy to do and once learned is a real confidence
booster. I have found it takes twenty tries at the
bootlegger's turn for the average person to get it down pat.
If you are learning on a standard, it will take twice as
long to become proficient. Remember to use a rental car
for this maneuver.
(3) Learn the moonshiner's turn. It takes about the same time
as the bootlegger's turn. Again, use a rental car.
(4) Buy or steal some junk cars in running condition from an
auto wrecker and practice ramming and vehicle attack.
(5) Practice the cornering techniques with your own car. You
should also practice the exotic turns once or twice to get
the feel of them (AFTER PROFICIENCY IS ATTAINED).
(6) Practice driving fast on highways. Having driven very fast
(200 km or 140 mph) makes you feel comfortable at lower
You can learn to do all the maneuvers in this text in a few
days and you won't have to pay the $3000 or so it costs to
learn them in an anti-terrorist driving school. After you have
learned these maneuvers, you will be a better driver than 95%
of the people on the road.
EMERGENCY AND HIGH SPEED DRIVING TECHNIQUES
- John M. Clark, Jr., Gulf Publishing Co., Houston, TX, 1976
FUNDAMENTALS OF PHYSICAL SURVEILLANCE
- Raymond P. Siljander, Charles Thomas Publishers, Springfield IL.
VEHICLE MODIFICATIONS FOR URBAN SURVIVAL
- Robert D. Chapman, C.W.L. Inc., Pasadena, CA