I started with a generic aftermarket intake that fit a civic multipoint injection 88-91 SI. I wrapped it in heat tape and put an AEM air bypass valve at the end. From here I routed 3' diameter electrical conduit from Home Depot into the wheel well. At the end is a K&N cone filter. Then I put a hole in the intake pipe to mount the IAT Sensor as close to the throttle body as possible.

As long as you mount your bypass valve high up in the engine bay, you wont have to worry about sucking water up into the intake should the filter become submerged. Better yet, don't drive in deep water. Another option would be to take out the conduit and put the K&N filter at the end of the intake temporarily.

To run sequential fuel injection or distributor-less ignition, you will need a Cam Sensor to signify top dead center compression stroke of a particular cylinder. Honda Cam Sensor signals TDC of #3 cylinder on compression stroke. I don?t know why the hell they chose #3 cylinder but they did. You?ll also need a Crank Sensor as a trigger.

I used GM coil packs because Haltech said I could use a GM ignition setup. Once I started it, and I ordered spark plug wires, it turned out that the Haltech ECU doesn?t really cooperate with GM ignition, and I would have had to sent back my Haltech ECU and have an internal resistor removed by Haltech, otherwise they would void the warranty. And if I was to run the GM ignition I couldn?t run sequential fuel injection and DIS at the same time. So I don?t know if I would recommend buying the Haltech if sequential fuel injection and distributor-less ignition is important to you.

There are some parts you?ll need for DIS and sequential fuel injection with Haltech. I used dual post coils from GM, but it is cheaper and easier to use the dual post from the RX7, because you wont need the MSD adapters that I used. You?ll need the RX7 trailing igniter from a 1986 -91 model. Throw away the single post and grab the dual post off the leading igniter.

Take the trailing igniter from the RX 7, take off the single post coils which are marked T1 (black wire) and T2 (blue wire), don?t get the wires you take off mixed up. Wire them up to coil pack 1 and coil pack 2. Hook them up to the GM coil pack adapters and then to the coils. Wire the Haltech ignition-out (light green) to the main ignition input for the igniter (pink). The auxiliary wire (green/black) on the Haltech is the toggle wire for the RX 7 igniter (white). Then hook up the power (2 tan wires) and ground. The tach output on the ignitor is a yellow wire. Then set up the Haltech to go Distributor Ignition, Input/Output page set the Auxiliary Out to Toggle, Output Type on Ignition Setup is Constant Charge, usual RX 7 coil charge time is 5.0 milliseconds the Output Edge is Falling. Coil 1 to Cylinder 1-3 Coil 2 goes to 2-4. Look at my Sensors page to find out how to trigger the ignition and crank and cam sensors.

For more help with RX7 igniter wiring diagram and Haltech go to http://www.hitman.hm

Comes from Haltech. You have to re-thread the sensor to fit into the Honda factory coolant sensor hole.

You?ll be using the factory cam sensor and you have to set the Haltech up in the Ignition Setup page to Home Input: Internal Reluctor. To wire it up splice in Input A (blue shielded wire) to the negative on the Internal Reluctor Sensor. Then you wire up the Home (green shielded wire) to the positive on the Internal Reluctor Sensor. If you car is running really bad (timing gun missing, erratic spark) trying reversing the wires on the positive/negative on the Internal Reluctor Sensor because I might have these backwards.

The Honda has a Crank Sensor trigger on it, it?s a 24 tooth internal reluctor sensor. The Haltech can be programmed to use that sensor, but it is inaccurate because it is run off the Cam, so you will have timing belt slop and cam slop bearing slop all due to the milliseconds of difference. I got a Hall Effect Sensor from Haltech and mounted it on the Crank Pulley. Haltech specifies the magnets to be mounted in a non-ferrousous material such as aluminum, stainless steel, etc. The Sensor itself can be mounted in any material. The Hall Effect sensor from Haltech can do both signals, a trigger and a home signal. I didn?t use the home signal in my case because you?ll need that on the Camshaft. You can use that if you want to mount 5 magnets on your cam somehow. The Haltech manual describes how to do this. I had two aluminum pieces and I JB welded the magnets to the aluminum, and then drilled and tapped the crank pulley to bolt on the aluminum with JB weld to reinforce it. I mounted the sensor to the engine block a safe distance away from the magnets, just make sure the magnets are picking up. If they?re not picking up, your RPM?s on the laptop will be erratic. Or you can check it with a timing gun. To set up the Haltech to trigger degrees, disable injector outputs so you wont be dumping fuel as you set this up, take the spark plugs out, ground the spark plug wires, lock timing on to 0 degrees, and have someone crank the engine until TDC lines up to the pointer while adjusting the trigger degrees on the laptop. And that will be your trigger degrees and then take it to a Dyno to set up the ignition.

This is where Haltech sucks. You have to wire a PWM Output to the VTEC. Now the thing that sucks about Haltech is that it triggers to ground. It doesn't provide a power trigger, so you have to wire up a Relay in order to actuate the VTEC solenoid, because the VTEC solenoid is internally grounded. You have to wire up a power and ground to the Relay and power to the VTEC solenoid. The Relay will need to be triggered by ground. The way to figure out how to trigger the Relay by ground is to wire up a power to the Relay and find the power out from the relay to a test light. And usually you find a ground trigger on the Relay by having a wire grounded and touching a contact on the relay until the light comes on when grounded, and off when not. In other words, Haltech sucks big hairy balls and they don't even know their shit. On the PWM Outputs page, set one of the PWM outputs to VTEC. My setup is:

• ON RPM: 4700
• OFF RPM: 4500
• ON LOAD BAR: 31
• OFF LOAD BAR: 30

You could use the factory MAP sensor, but I used the Haltech MAP Sensor. The following is stolen from the Hitman's website: The Map Sensor should be located in the engine bay away from any direct heat , and it should also be mounted higher than the injector locations so as to not have any fuel run down the vacuum line and kill the sensor. The vacuum line should be connected to a constant vacuum source such as the inlet plenum, or a place where it gets a vacuum signal from all rotors or cylinders. On the picture below you can see a good place to run the line from (see hitman's website). If the vacuum line is connected to the inlet manifold where it only gets a signal from one runner, that signal will be very erratic and it will pulse. This will make tuning very difficult due to the constantly varying vacuum reading.