The
author wishes to thank CrewcutNYC, BuzzCT, and others for their
recommendation and directions to the Royal Barbershop in New York
City. As a St. Louis guy away on business, their input was
invaluable and the experience exceeded every expectation. Thank you,
respected fellow recruits.
I'm from St. Louis. Last week I was on Long Island and in Manhattan
for four days of business that left me with some free time to
explore. Along with the typical sights, I was also set on getting
into one of the legendary barbershops I've always heard about on the
web.
I've read the reviews for the Royal Barbershop both on The
Haircut Site and other sites. Always on the lookout for new
barbershop experiences and specially the ultimate head shave, I knew
a trip to NYC would present some options, including the legendary
Royal. Follow-ups to my posts on this board lead me to choose the
Royal.
New to New York City, I took the train in from Long Island after I
finished up appointments on Wednesday. CrewcutNYC gave me incredibly
thorough directions and I quickly found the line I needed to 8th
Street. This particular night I only wanted to check the Royal out,
grab a couple beers, see the neighborhood and watch the people. The
following day I'd be in Manhattan for business and I could go back
to the Royal for a shave then -- IF it looked like THE place to go,
and IF it lived up to my high expectations and standards.
Walking down St. Marks Place (the street the Royal is on), I'm all
eyes in search of the legendary shop I've read about for so long. I
practically miss the narrow store front and deep shop that is the
Royal. I am absolutely mesmerized. Here it is almost 7:00 in the
evening ...the street is bustling, and the barbershop is packed with
about six guys waiting and another six getting "skinned"
to various degrees of severity.
It is a cool night, the door is open and the humming and whirring
of Osters and lather machines drift onto the street. "Holy
sh*t," I think to myself. I stand motionless watching the
action inside. A couple other guys do the same. The sights, the
clipper action is impressive, if not hypnotizing.
A young guy in a barber jacket walks over to me and asks in broken
English if I want to come in for a haircut. It has been a week and a
half since my last cut/shave and I've got more hair than I've had in
years. The barber asks me to come in the shop.
"Ahhh, ummm, do you think you can shave this off for me?"
I ask rubbing my male pattern baldness and stubble. "Sure, Sure
...come in, sit down," he says as we walk in.
He takes me to the only empty chair past the waiting guys up front.
The name on the mirror is Stanislaus, but he tells me his name is
Mike. He's about 21 years old, boyish and clean cut yet very sure of
himself and hardly tentative about shaving my noggin. He's obviously
intent on making me a comfortable, satisfied customer. I'm thinking
I should have waited for a more experienced barber, but I can tell
Mike knows his stuff only a couple minutes into the process of
taping my neck and caping me up.
I see his maroon Osters on the hook in front of the chair and I'm
actually hoping to start off with a quick encounter with the #00000
to begin my return to skin. But the process begins with what I think
is cold cream followed by a rub down of warm machine lather and a
few minutes under a hot towel. We talk about the then-current Subway
World Series.
I'm in freaking heaven as I scope out a collection of Osters, a
rack designed to hold a myriad of blades, and other guys asking for
the closest possible cuts ...high and tights, fades, face shaves and
even another dude such as myself getting the ballsiest of cuts, a
headshave.
The towel comes off, more hot lather is applied and Mike changes the
blades on his razor as though he has done it a thousand times
before. He dips the instrument in a sterilizer. With short and
incredibly precise strokes, he begins to reduce me to skin as I
watch in the mirror. My heart is pounding and I don't know why
because this isn't the first time for me, just the first time in
headshave and barbershop nirvana. He tells me he learned the trade
in Russia.
When he is not talking to me, he is laughing and talking with his
counterparts in Russian. I am in love with this man's articulate
touch and precision. He is a master and at such a young age.
Barber's in St. Louis will never be viewed the same, barbershops in
St. Louis will never measure up to the testosterone that is flowing
in this place.
All the lather is removed with the blade, and he rubs his hand over
my scalp in search of rough spots. He applies more cold cream and
lather and proceeds to go over my entire scalp AGAINST the grain.
(I've had my head shaved in St. Louis but have never had it repeated
against the grain. I have always had to go home and Mach III myself
for the perfect hairless head).
He angles the blade just right, his eyes like lasers, his
concentration noticeably intense as he moves the blade up and
against the grain. The scraping sound is as pronounced as when he
began the process with the grain of my hair growth.
He wipes me down with Witch Hazel, loosens my collar some more and
shaves my lower neck. He then asks if I want "a shine."
I'm thinking he asked me if I like the shave.
"Yeah, man. That's great. Best shave I've ever had!"
"No," he replies, "you want me make it
shine?"
"Ahhh ... OK. Yeah, sure."
Inside, I'm thinking "F*ckin A, brother, have your way, I'm
yours, do whatever you want! I'm flying to New York every weekend
for this. Screw the half-ass jobs you get in St. Louis. They never
offer to make it shine. How the hell do you make it shine?"
With that he applies more cream, another towel and then uses a warm
blow dryer. I now understand the meaning of "chrome dome."
My scalp has never looked so freakin perfect, shiny, healthy and
well, beautifully bald!
He tells me I owe him $10 but I give him a twenty and tell him to
keep it. I feel like I underpaid just the same. It was great. On the
sidewalk, I tighten my tie in a street vendors mirror, flex my pecs
and biceps and honestly admire myself and my beautiful head. I rub
it.
It's slick from the 'waxing,' but there is not even a hint of
stubble to be found. Empowered, I feel as though others around me
appreciate the glow as well. I must be radiating confidence!
That morning, as I dry off in the shower, the hotel towel
encounters only a slight friction from the stubble that was
undetectable the night before.
In Manhattan by 7:00AM, I move through a series of what turn out to
be incredibly productive meetings with people I have only spoken to
on the phone in the past. They seem to receive my shaved look well
-- or maybe I'm just carrying it with even more confidence given my
experience the night before.
Women seem unusually receptive and I feel other men look at me
and think "I wish I had the nuts to do that." Of course,
it is probably all in my head, but what the heck, I feel good!
I finish up my meetings in midtown around 3:30 PM. Rather than head
for Penn Station and the train back to Long Island and the World
Series in my hotel room, I instead take the N/R train to 8th Street.
This time it is daylight, the city looks different, I think I'll
check out the action in around St. Mark's Place.
I walk back to the Royal, and see Mike standing on the sidewalk
in his barber jacket. He spots me coming toward him, brightens up
with a smile, and holds out his hand for a handshake.
I tell him, "Hey man, I can't go home tomorrow without getting
another shave. Mike, you're a freakin pro." He beams.
We walk in the shop together and just as the night before, the
place is "abuzz" (no pun really intended) with activity. I
sit in a different chair this time, loosen my shirt and tie.
Mike rubs my shoulders and says something in his broken english
about hoping the Yankees win it all that coming night. I'm a diehard
baseball fan, I respond by mumbling something in response but inside
I'm thinking "freakin' A, brother. Whatever you want. And don't
forget the shine!"
As I paid him, he gave me his card and says something about telling
my friends to come see him for haircuts or shaves. At first I
thought it was too bad that most of my friendslive in St. Louis, and
can't take advantage of this incredibly skilled barber.
Then I recalled the even larger and much more appreciative circle
of buddies on the Buzzboard! Wasn't it Wyatt that said every man
should shave his head once? If you have the 'nads to do it, go see
Mike! There are those of us who do it everyday, every other day,
once a week, etc. If so, treat yourself, your psyche, and your sense
of masculinity.Get the "Royal Treatment" -- GO SEE MIKE.