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All There
Monday, 3 May 2004
wandering to and fro
May 3 2004 11:14 am Well, here is what I should be doing: replying to a passel of emails (sixteen, to be precise) that I have received and not yet replied to - grading homework projects - lesson planning for this week, in which I will teach six or eight extra classes - or perhaps writing a paper for Wheaton. But so far this morning I have avoided all of those things, and so now I will continue to avoid them, for a little while.

On Friday I met with class 42a2 - well, really, about half the class, plus some boyfriends and neighbors - at 5 am by the school gates. It wasn?t until six that we actually boarded the bus and hit the road for or 200 km journey to the Phong Nha Caves (a UNESCO world heritage site). About 30 km before we got there, a woman on a motorbike ran into the back of our bus. Now, though you might suppose that since SHE was the one who hit us, we wouldn?t be held responsible, but that would be false. Our bus was?bigger?I guess that made us somehow culpable. We stopped and our bus driver accompanied the woman (who was unhurt) to the hospital for x-rays. And we sat. in the sun. for over two hours.

And I experienced the generosity of the Vietnamese people. One family who lived on the side of the road let a few of us come in and lay on their bed to ?rest? while we waited for our bus driver to return. We laid there, we laid in front of the fan, we ate cucumber and pate sandwiches, and we waited.

Finally we were on the road again and made it to the caves. Because it was a holiday, the place was packed with Vietnamese tourists, and so we got to wait another hour and a half to get tickets. This waiting was made bearable by ice cream and seven up in the shade.

To get to the caves, we rode in small, brightly-painted boats for about half an hour until we reached the mouth of the water cave. Inside, we rode for a while and then disembarked and hiked back into the cave a bit. After that, we reboarded and floated over to the ?dry? cave. We had to hike up a couple hundred meters to reach the entrance to the cave, and then we could hike into the cool darkness of the cave.

I got home from the caves around 9:30 Friday night, and left again Saturday morning at 8:30. This time it was to Ha Tinh with Lucy to visit Hallie?s hometown. Hallie?s family lives about 50 km away from Vinh in the countryside. Her father, mother, and younger brother live in a three-room house. The bathroom is a hole in the ground and the ?shower? a cement cube with a low faucet and a basin. Her father is a retired soldier and her mother sells pork meat.

Hallie?s family was very hospitable and made me very comfortable. I spent most of Saturday at the beach with Hallie and her friends from high school. New foods I ate: some kind of clam, some strange small bird, and some thing too crunchy wrapped in green leaves and fried. Foods I politely avoided: the stomach of the chicken and the heart of the pig.

I slept in the bed with Hallie and Lucy and woke early the next morning. Her mother usually gets up at three am to get the pork meat, and then she sells it out of her house from about four until six or seven. After some noodles for breakfast, Lucy and I motorbiked it back to Vinh, stopping on the way to visit a memorial for twelve young girls who were killed by a bomb while they were repairing a supply road during the Vietnam-American war.

When I came home, I was feeling a little under the weather, and I climbed into bed and watched Legally Blond one and two. Perhaps I was in need of a little stupid American culture.

I?ve put some photos from the weekend on my main website.

Posted by ultra/amyl at 12:12 AM CDT
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Tuesday, 27 April 2004
Developments
1. I have started walking with an umbrella in the sunshine. Yes, this is the culturally appropriate way to protect my skin from the sun and my body from the heat, which is excruciating.

2. Cockroach season has arrived. So far, we've only killed two. Eponine my cat assists in the killing. She chases the geckos and cockroaches just as you would expect her to chase mice. She goes crazy.

3. This weekend we celebrate Saigon Independence Day - ie, the day when Vietnam was "freed" from the nasty American colonialists. We have no school on Friday or Monday. On Friday, I'm traveling 400 km (round trip_ to see a famous cave with class 42a2. On Saturday, I'm traveling 50 km into the countryside with three students to visit one of their hometowns for the weekend. I'll write more about that next week.

4. I've taken up watercolors. I bought a book of Chinese paintings as well as an instructional book with some kind of paint-by-number examples. This hobby likely won't last more than two weeks, but I'm very into it now.

5. My one-room apartment has a tile floor. The tiles are mustard, green, maroon, and white colored. The walls of my room are pale yellow with a red stripe. My bedspread is blue. Things hanging on the walls are: coral, retro green, yellow, light blue, navy, and red. This is beginning to drive me crazy. I'm on a mission to redecorate in a minimalist way (can I ever achieve minimalist when I begin with this tile?) using only black, dark red, and cream. We'll see how that goes.

6. I bought the first season of Alias on DVD (six discs), but alas, of the four I've tried so far, only the first works. The others all let me see the first half, and then they cut off. Jenifer Garner will always remind me of Caroline Sasser.

7. I have two new sisters. They were born last week and they are filled with joy.

8. My time here is short. 5.5 weeks to go. What to teach in such brief time?

Posted by ultra/amyl at 11:27 PM CDT
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Thursday, 22 April 2004
Can you be a food addict?
http://content.health.msn.com/content/article/85/98731.htm

Posted by ultra/amyl at 4:00 AM CDT
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Monday, 19 April 2004
my food is...
11 am-

April 19?! April 19. Who can believe that.

I?m feeling a little nostalgic for America today. I?ve got this Hopper painting as the wallpaper on my laptop right now - typical Hopper scene, men in black and a woman in red at an all night diner. Man, I can?t tell you how much I would love to be at an all night diner right now - or at Cottham?s. Eat some real greasy hamburger and fries, lots of ketchup, and a chocolate shake. Little Caesar?s pizza, Blue Bell ice cream, Schlostzky?s sandwiches, Chik-fil-a, fountain Cokes, tomato soup and grilled cheese. Mama?s lasagna, flank steak, twice baked potatoes, spinach-artichoke dip, baby blue salad, homemade bread and muffins. Freebird?s burritos.

Hot pavement, parking lots, cars and traffic rules, the Lake of the Ozark?s. College Station. The food.

Maybe I?m not nostalgic, I?m just hungry. But my food, supposedly, is to do the will of him who sent me. Still working on that one.

8pm - Just to update you on this eating theme, which I'm sure is extremely important to your life, tonight I cooked squid for the first time. We can call it calimari if that makes you feel better. I live twenty minutes from the ocean, and squid is plentiful and cheap and delicious. I don't think I had ever eaten it before coming to Vietnam, but now I really like it. I don't know if it's really healthy - I know it has protein, but - is it a scavenger? If you know, please email me. Anyway, it's probably not healthy the way I cooked it, dipped in flour and fried. Yum. We also made twice-baked potatoes and we had fresh watermelon for dessert. I'm quite content.

Posted by ultra/amyl at 11:01 PM CDT
Updated: Tuesday, 20 April 2004 7:43 AM CDT
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Sunday, 18 April 2004
Go Figure
0 Times I?ve eaten my mother?s cooking in the last eight months

1 American living in Vinh

8 Average inches of rainfall in May

18 Cost in cents of a French croissant in Vinh

20 Kilometers to the beach

50 Approximate days left in Vinh

86 Average temperature in May, ?F

132 Days until I return to Vietnam in the fall

237 Students I?ve taught

238 km clocked on my motorbike


Posted by ultra/amyl at 1:38 AM CDT
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Monday, 12 April 2004
Into the mono-culture

When I show my Vietnamese friends photographs of me with people of Asian ethnicity, they always say something like, ?Oh! Is she Chinese?? If I explain that actually, she is American, they don?t quite believe me. It?s difficult for them to comprehend that in America, there are people of every skin color and ethnic background. For people in a mono-culture, nationality and ethnicity are one and the same.

Sometimes I don?t quite fit their paradigms:

1) Not a foreigner. I just learned that when I first came to Vinh, class 43 debated long and hard about whether or not I was really a foreigner. ?Because we know that foreigners are tall and big, and she is not?So we didn?t understand how she could be a foreigner.?

2) From Laos. ?Well, ok?she must be a foreigner. But she?s not a big foreigner. So maybe she?s from Laos. Laotians are sort of foreign.? I still get asked sometimes if I?m Vietnamese, or if I am from Laos

3)The strictest American. Class 44 now believes that I am American. But I?m not much like Brittany Spears. In fact, I dress so modestly that according to them, I ?must be the strictest American!?

4)A Baby. I?m not really sure how this fits culturally. Well, first of all, people in American usually think that I?m about 16. I was hoping that in Vietnam, people wouldn?t have the frame of reference to know that I look so much younger than I am. But in fact, people still ask if I?m in high school. And worse than that, they tell me that I look like a baby. That when I sleep, I look like a baby. That when I eat, my mouth looks like a baby. So perhaps I?m regressing.

Posted by ultra/amyl at 2:27 AM CDT
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Monday, 29 March 2004

I dwell in Possibility -
A fairer House than Prose -
More numerous of Windows -
Superior - for Doors -

Of Chambers as the Cedars -
Impregnable of Eye -
And for an Everlasting Roof
The Gambrels of the Sky -

Of Visitors - the fairest -
For Occupations -This -
The spreading wide my narrow Hands
To gather Paradise -

Emily Dickinson

Posted by ultra/amyl at 3:41 AM CST
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Thursday, 25 March 2004

What I miss is a stretch of highway at night - dark and lonesome through Mississippi, and you stop for gas at a run-down four-pump station and there?s a black man preaching the gospel out front and a beat-up black Cadillac at the other pump - and then grey into Atlanta and snaking down to watch the sunrise over Highway 1 in Florida - exhaustion; and an all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet that charges extra for orange juice. By the second day in the sandy beach house, you have lobstered legs and eat nothing but ice cream.

What I miss is the exhilaration of driving down Long?s Peak when the stars are out. Lean foreword on the dash and get dizzy from the stars and the curves and the night air rushing through your windows and the smallness of your self on this lone mountain in the majestic range dividing the continent on earth in the galaxy - and down past the tree line, past the forest fire warnings, you see the one little hill that?s waiting for a house to be built on top, that?s waiting for a woman with twelve cats to take up residence, and the horse barns across the road.

What I miss is the road north through America?s heartland, marked by erect grain silos staking the masculine territory and hand painted signs calling down fire on abortion doctors - a road so straight you can sleep and wake an hour later to the same wavy fields on either side and the same ribbon of black unswervingly stretched out in front of you. There, when the storms come, you can see them miles ahead - you can watch the clouds gather and the color fade, and you can see the sheets of rain, like the curtain that was torn, long before you drive into them and they plunk onto your windshield so that now you see through a glass dimly. Then you only drive with your hazards on, or you pull off onto the side and listen to storm and to the local radio, one station telling you which streets are closed and the other doing song dedications, all the voices so chummy and intimate that it makes you feel that you belong in this lifeless town which makes all its money from tourists spending single nights at the motels when they pass through on their way to someplace better.

But it?s been said better, like

Well, the moon moved past Nebraska, and spilled laughter on them cold Dakota hils - and angels danced on Jacob?s stairs. There is this silence in the badlands, and over Kansas the whole universe was still, like the whisper of a prayer - and you see the hawk burst into flight and in the east the whole horizon is on flame - and with the prairies I am calling out your name?

Or

Well the coal trucks come running, their bellies full of coal and their big wheels humming down this road that lies open like the soul of the woman who hid the spies who were looking for the land of the milk and the honey - and this road she is a woman, and she was made from a rib cut from the side of these mountains, oh these great sleeping adams who were lonely even here in paradise, for somebody to kiss them?

Posted by ultra/amyl at 11:25 PM CST
Updated: Friday, 26 March 2004 2:46 AM CST
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Saturday, 20 March 2004
Kramer vs. Me
Last night I watched Kramer vs. Kramer (1979, Dustin Hoffman and Meryl Streep) for the first time. This film, produced two years before I was born, tells the story of a mother who leaves her husband and her five year old son to ?find herself?. She returns eighteen months later asking for custody of her son, and the husband and wife battle in court. The film makes two points that were, at the time, rather groundbreaking and controversial. First, it points out the negative effects of male workaholism in a marriage. Ted?s (Hoffman) absorption in his work leads him to neglect his wife and child and their needs. Second, the film argues persuasively that a father can care for and raise a child as well as a mother can.

But the most startling thing about the movie is its prescient summary of the feminist movement in the latter half of the twentieth century. Meryl Streep as Joanna Kramer is the everywoman feminist ? in her refusal to be identified only as a wife and mother, something less than a human being; in her soul search; and in her discovery that, in the end, she desperately wants a child.

Let me explain. In the nineteen fifties, feminists advanced the idea that a woman cannot find fulfillment in ?traditional? female roles. In The Feminine Mystique, Betty Friedan wrote, ?We can no longer ignore that voice within women which says: ?I want something more than my husband and my children and my home.?? Well-educated, well-off homemakers in the 1950s were unfulfilled by the role that mothers, magazines, and media had promised would bring them happiness. In fact, thousands of suburban wives were suffering from sickness and depression, seeking comfort in lithium addictions. Caught up in the dailyness of cooking, cleaning, and chauffeuring, women quietly asked themselves ?Is this all??

Friedan criticized a culture that would not allow women to voice that question, but that instead exalted on television and in magazines a hyper-feminized woman whose main goals were to please her husband and raise model children in a spotless home. ?No other road to fulfillment was offered to American women in the middle of the twentieth century,? she writes. In response to the feminist plea, America instated sweeping government programs, put tens of billions of dollars in social spending, and underwent massive social upheaval in the name of sexual equality.

Conservatives may dismiss Friedan?s work and conclusions, but I can?t do that. The fact is, she was right about a lot of things. Sociological studies show that women had in fact been taught that marriage and motherhood alone would bring them fulfillment ? and that wasn?t true then and isn?t true now. Men were also bound by narrow gender roles. Men, coming out of the world wars, believed that they had to play the same role at home that they had played on the battlefields; they were there to conquer, to succeed, and never to show weakness. Ted Kramer is a good example; he believed that his role as a married man was to conquer the workplace and ?bring home the bacon?.

Both men and women, then, were bound by constricting gender roles, and something had to be done about it. Joanna Kramer, and feminists in the sixties and seventies, decided that the thing to do was to find some way other than marriage and motherhood to define themselves. Joanna?s decision to leave her marriage for a journey of self-discovery through therapy in California mirrors the feminist movement in those decades, as women claimed the right to be just as selfish as men.

Finally, Joanna found herself and realized how much she wanted her child ? a realization that most feminists from the sixties and seventies didn?t come to until the nineties. But now, many feminists are clamoring for children. Many modern feminists are even beginning to embrace traditional roles over careers.

The choice of Brenda Barnes, one of the highest ranking female executives in the country, to resign from her job as CEO of Pepsi-Cola North America in 1997 received a great deal of media attention. She made the decision, she told the press, after one of her children said it would be okay for her to keep working if she would ?promise to be home for all our birthdays.?

Sarah McLachlan, folk rock singer and founder of Lilith Fair, decided to end the music festival in favor of having children. When asked when she would resume her career she shrugged. ?It could be three years, it could be ten years, it could be forever.? Most notable is the defense offered by former journalist Iris Krasnow who gave up a top-flight career to take care of four little boys. She says, ?Motherhood is about deciding not to fight that ancient and biological yank on the womb, that natural order of your soul that says you should be there. If we don?t want to work eighty hours a week in some office and get our family life eaten up, why should we feel as though we?re selling out feminism? I?m a committed feminist, and there?s nothing more powerful to me than refusing to abandon motherhood.?

In Creating a Life (2002), Sylvia Ann Hewlett chronicles the stories of thousands of highly successful American women who found the possibility of raising children eliminated by the demands of ?high-altitude? careers, and who try desperately late in life to get pregnant. Even popular fiction highlights the professional woman?s ache for children; books like Dating Big Bird feature protagonists on the man-hunt simply so that they can have children before the biological clock stops ticking. Joanna?s late realization of how much she longs for her child is the realization of thousands of women in America today.

And where does this leave me? Twenty-two years old, I?ve grown up with the voices of Joanna Kramer, Betty Friedan, and Iris Krasnow all whispering in my ears. I?ve been brought up to believe that I should find my talents and fulfill my potential. I?ve heard the feminists say that I won?t be able to do that with marriage and children alone, and I?ve heard neo-feminists like Danielle Crittendon say that if I refrain from committing to marriage, my capacity to love will shrink and I?ll grow old wishing that I had children. And I?ve seen enough women try to balance career and motherhood that I know how rarely it can be done well. A choice of some kind has to be made. But how do I reconcile these conflicting urges in my soul; how do I understand this confused heritage of gender?

I tried to explain my dilemma to an older single friend recently ? one who, personally successful, wishes she could be married with kids. I said, ?I understand ? I get the point that twenty years from now, I?m going to wish that I had children. But even if I intellectually grasp that fact, that doesn?t mean that I can just go out and get married right now, so that I?ll be happy later in life.? She said, ?Why not??

Why not? I didn?t know how to explain it then, and I?m not sure I do now. I can?t do that because it?s a utilitarian view of marriage and men. I can?t say, ?Because in twenty years I?m going to want kids, I?m now going to give up my other talents and ambitions and go find a husband (read: sperm donor) to ensure my future happiness.? There is as much selfishness in that as there is in Joanna Kramer?s leaving her husband and son. My motivation for marriage and motherhood has to be broader than that.

So still I?m at a standstill. I?m twenty-two and a year out of college, and I have all roads open to me: graduate school, a career, international volunteer work, marriage. And at the crossroads I listen to the confused voices of my feminist fore bearers -- and they?re pointing me in every direction at once.

Posted by ultra/amyl at 11:38 PM CST
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Tuesday, 16 March 2004
Wednesday Morning; Vietnamese Friends
Now Playing: Beth Orton "Paris Train"

My swatch battery stopped working.

Last night Mai (My)came over and she took me to Thuy?s (Twee) house to pick up my electric bike. Before I go on, let me describe these two students.

Mai is the student I have the deepest relationship with, because we have the most important thing in common. She?s twenty years old and a first year student. She?s a poet, she?s incredibly intelligent, and she likes to wear all black. She adores the Backstreet Boys, but realizes that that?s kind of adolescent of her. She?s zealous. She?s too thin, with a diamond shaped face, crooked teeth, and intense eyes.

Thuy is a third-year student. Each class in the university has a ?monitor,? who is like the class president - Thuy is the monitor for her class, and she?s the only female monitor that I?m aware of in the whole university. Her father is a teacher in the English department. She?s a Party member and she believes strongly in Vietnam and its tradition and politics. Her life plan is to become a headmistress of a high school in Vinh (and I should point out that most high schools here have headmasters, not headmistresses). Thuy has the greatest sense of humor that I?ve found in Vietnam. I realized a few weeks ago when I was at her house that her sense of humor is due to her older brother -- but she?s got a kind of sarcasm and wittiness that I love. She?s intelligent and hardworking and playful, and one of the closest reciprocating friends I have here. I can depend on her. She?s got a large, round, expressive face and a confident way of moving through life.

So anyway, Thuy?s family has been storing the bike for me while I waited for the ramp to be built to the storage room in my building. I got to Thuy?s house and gave her parents some flowers and we sat down in their front room for some water and fresh fruit from the garden. Her mom asked (in Vietnamese) if the weather was not suitable to me in Vietnam; I looked too thin. Her father was so worried about me driving the bike back to school in the dark that he asked Thuy to follow behind me, with Mai in front of me - he joked about me being a queen with bodyguards before and behind. I told him he and his wife were my Vietnamese parents.

When we got back to school, Mai said that she was afraid that I was too tired to study with her, so she was going to give me a back massage while we talked.

My Vietnamese friends take such good care of me. They serve me, they laugh with me, they watch out for me. I am very blessed by them.
---------------------------------------
There is one slight problem. The ramp built on the stairs was put on the side, in a place where there?s not enough room to angle my bike up onto the ramp. It took all three of us to get it up and in last night. But at least it?s here.

Posted by ultra/amyl at 7:20 PM CST
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