Some thoughts on feeding rabbits……….

Over the years, many thousands of words have been written on the subject of feeding domestic rabbits. Several well known books have been published as a result of the author’s experiences and scientific research experiments have generated countless papers outlining some very specific requirements pertaining to the rabbits’ needs.

The Purina Company maintained a research farm with a large rabbit herd for a number of years to help develop and produce just the right balance of nutrients.

There are several other feed companies in the United States that support similar research studies the results of which could be slightly biased, in favour of the sponsor. Several American Universities have and continue to carry out research programs and these should be less biased. Oregon State (OSU) has published many interesting findings on various aspects of rabbit production. Without a doubt, any and all on- going research into this interesting subject will help us all better understand just what is required to keep our favourite animal healthy and thriving in the somewhat artificial conditions in which we keep them. As a side note, it is important to remember that for practical reasons, most of the research that has been conducted on rabbit feeds has been directed toward commercial operations. With a little thought, we should be able to use of the findings and adjust them to our generally much smaller operation.

Luckily for us, rabbits are very adaptable and will generally survive and even thrive and reproduce on diets that may seem to be slightly inadequate or in some cases, sorely lacking.

Before complete rations usually in pelleted form became widely available, many hobbyists used feed that today we would consider totally wrong. I know as a kid raising backyard rabbits in England during the Second World War and after, high priced prepared feeds were unaffordable and in fact not available. My rabbits thrived and multiplied on a diet consisting primarily of grass, dandelions, clover, carrots and some hay together with chaff (chopped straw) in the warmer part of the year. Their feed was supplemented with dry bread and boiled vegetable peelings (potatoes, carrots etc), dried off with bran in the wintertime. Water was never offered but usually some skim milk was given to does for a couple of weeks after kindling. It’s doubtful that today’s strains of rabbits would even survive on such a diet let alone reproduce.

In some third world countries, local natives are encouraged and taught how to keep and raise rabbits for food, as a means of augmenting their often sadly lacking daily protein requirements. Rabbits in these areas are usually kept in some type of natural colony, sometimes even underground in the very hot regions, as what we would consider normal housing, is far from affordable to these people. Various native plants are the feed mainstays supplemented where possible, with local grains such as millet or sorghum. As I pointed out before, rabbits it seems, can adapt to just about anything. Consistency seems to be the most important factor regardless of how or where the animals are kept. Constant changes in feed, housing methods or even quantity and meal timing, seem to cause many of our problems. I’m not suggesting that an alarm clock be set to time your feedings but the old adage “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, fits very well in rabbit feeding. I find it best not to constantly change feeds looking for the little extra that will lead to show table winners. I find it far better to let the rabbits adapt to my feeding program, the ones that don’t are gone.

What is the most important component in the successful feeding of rabbits? Without a doubt, it’s water;… if a rabbit can’t drink, it won’t eat. This is easy to say but sometimes difficult to deliver in the wintertime. Yes, they can survive by licking ice in a frozen drinker but they won’t hold any kind of condition or be able to properly nurse youngsters. I’m sure more winter litters die from lack of adequate liquids than from the cold. Make an effort, there is a reward.

The high protein myth….. From what I’ve read, many studies have been conducted on the optimum levels of protein in pelleted feeds. 15-16% seems to be about the recommended level. Various “high power” feeds and supplements seem to cause more harm than good although they may have a place in commercial operations, where the does are expected to produce 6-7 litters per year. The fibre content of a feed is a far more important component; levels approaching 20% will in many cases prevent any digestive upsets. The dreaded Enteritis, common in some rabbitries, can be almost eliminated if high levels of fibre are maintained.  Many well known feeds marketed today offer protein/fibre levels of 15 to16% and 17 to 19% respectively, personally, I feel these are ideal. Minimum fibre levels should be carefully checked out on a feed label if you are considering a brand change, shy away from those that promise “high performance” with an only moderate fibre percentage. They are usually more expensive and much of those “special” additives end up in the manure pile. The only high performance often being in the feed companies’ profit margin.

A fairly limited selection of pelleted rabbit feed is available in Southern Ontario most of which seem completely adequate. In the United States, many more brands are available with each company producing different formulas aimed at special sectors of the rabbit industry.  There are formulas for dry does, nursing does, resting bucks, working bucks, growing stock, etc,etc. Whether they are all absolutely necessary is anyone’s guess; however it would be nice to have a greater selection easily available to us. One major difference I’ve noticed comparing Canadian and American pellets, is that most of theirs are smaller in diameter which I feel, makes them more palatable and causes less waste. Apparently, because of our relatively small production quantities, it is not economically feasible to retool Canadian extruding machinery to accommodate rabbit food.

What about additives or supplements and are they necessary? A qualified NO would be my quick answer. Having said this however, many people including myself prefer to offer some additional feed items. A small quantity of good “grassy” hay, barley or oat straw will help increase the total fibre intake. Alfalfa hay is very high in protein and low in fibre, I try to avoid offering it as I believe it would throw the protein/fibre ratio way out of balance. Wheat straw is eaten but not relished and may be a waste of time except for bedding if wooden cages are used. A tablespoon full of whole or crimped oats fed separately once or twice a week is also appreciated and seems to improve overall condition. I go easy on any extra grain, as again I feel it throws the total food balance out and too much can cause overheating, resulting in a continual off season moult.

Interestingly, I was able to visit a very successful show rabbit breeder in New York State a while ago who keeps about 150 New Zealand Whites; he claims to feed a well known brand of commercial feed exclusively. Water and pellets and that’s it, his rabbits looked magnificent, their fur and flesh condition was second to none.

Back here at home, green foods are fed sparingly from time to time more as a tonic than as a regular item. Carrots, Apples, Spinach and various wild greens are offered especially if any particular animal seems a little off colour. Canada Thistle, Wild bramble (leaves and stems), Shepherds Purse, Chickweed and even apple tree prunings, will usually tempt even the most stubborn rabbit to resume food intake when its appetite is lost for whatever reason. Stale, wilted or soiled greens are of course avoided. Many breeders feed some form of green food daily and that’s fine as long as it is a constant process. Stopping and starting based on availability and time of year is, in my view, a dangerous practice and can lead to severe digestive upsets. We are advised not to feed frozen greens of any kind because they may cause sickness, I’ve never done it so I can’t comment although I have seen rabbits eating and enjoying frozen carrots without apparent harm.

I have never used salt spools, sugar based treats or additional vitamins or minerals in the water. There may well be a place for some of these items but I doubt they are really of much use if the animals already receive a well balanced diet.

As I’ve said repeatedly rabbits are adaptable. A couple of years ago I supplied a number of breeding does and bucks to a young man in Quebec who wanted to establish a herd of organically raised stock. He explained that he would keep the rabbits in individual large pens which would be moved each day across a grassy lawn. They would be fed a mixture of organically raised whole grains along with the grass. I had some doubts about his success but to my surprise, they adapted well and he was able to raise a more than average number of fryers which he supplied to some famous Montreal gourmet restaurants. The price he received for his “organic” fryers was about five times the normal Ontario market numbers. He bought six more Argente deChampagne does this spring, so I guess he’s happy.

In closing, I want to stress these are my thoughts and ideas. I don’t expect everyone to agree but if any of the suggestions prove helpful to the reader, that’s great.

Ed White

2005

Conditioning Rabbits for the show season …………

Without a doubt the most important aspect in exhibiting rabbits or any kind of animal for that matter, is its physical condition on show day. Listening to judges comments we often hear, “A little down in condition today” or perhaps, “Moult not quite finished”. We paid our entry fee, checked out the competition, we know we have the best animals but are beaten because of their condition. There are other factors that can effect our placement of course; type, colour, quality of the competition, lighting, behavior (table manners), our attitude and several other things that make the event fun. However, the most important factor is condition. While many breed standards lump condition in with type, anything from 15 to 50 points, most judges seem to pay a lot of attention to the condition part. This is not meant as a criticism but it is a reality. Human nature leads judges to pick animals that are in good condition over those lacking flesh, with poor coats or boney hips. After all, the judge can only place the rabbits based upon what he or she sees for a few moments on the day of the show. A judgment based upon what might be or could be, doesn’t work.  While the title of this short article is conditioning rabbits for a show, what we should really be trying to do, is to learn how to maintain the rabbits’ condition before and during the show season.

This is not an easy task. First, let’s assume that the rabbit in question has the genetic ability to attain and maintain good condition. Some strains, for whatever reason, don’t quite make it. Seemingly constant moult, rough spines or boney hips or inherent poor colour are just a fact of life. Rather than spend time and effort with these it would probably be best to cull and discard the offenders to start over. 

 Most rabbits leave the nest box in excellent condition; the real challenge is to retain it. One of the most important conditioning aids is an adequate supply of water. Interruptions in the growth cycle due to inconsistent feed intake will lead to poor condition right from the start. Rabbits will not eat properly if they are thirsty. A constant feed supply together with plenty of fresh water will get the youngsters off to a good start. A careful examination at weaning time will reveal any that are not doing well. Any with boney hips or spines at 8 weeks or those with distended bellies will not improve with age and should be eliminated right away. This move saves feed, cage space and effort and will give the remaining kits a better chance. The fur quality can be assessed at this time also. Those with harsh or very course coats or those that lack density or have really poor colour are candidates for the discard group. The remaining young should be housed individually if possible; this is especially true of the young bucks. Two immature does caged together seem to do reasonably well but fights do sometimes breakout and there goes the condition. The feed intake of individually caged rabbits can be monitored more easily and any that don’t eat properly while growing will quickly go downhill.

In my experience, the next best age to check for condition is at about 4 ½ to 5 months. From 8 weeks to 18 weeks or 4 ½ months many young rabbits go through a kind of gangly ‘teenage period’. Decisions made regarding type or condition during this stage will sometimes prove incorrect. At around 5 ½ months, the first junior prime coat should be in and this is an excellent time to cull again with priority given to flesh condition and fur quality. From now on the fun begins and the challenge of maintaining good condition is almost a daily thing. Assuming you have chosen a satisfactory feed to begin with, stick with it. Frequent change of feed or too many supplements will cause loss of condition quicker than anything. Personally, I find a pelleted ration with a protein/fibre ratio of 16/19 works the best for my rabbits. Of course, slight variations in percentage points either way would still be very acceptable. I find that high fat or protein formulae do little to improve condition in the long run. They generally cost more and lead to overweight animals that seem to be in a constant moult. Additives or supplements such as good quality crimped or rolled oats together with a little black sunflower seed fed sparingly a couple of times a week is about all that is needed to maintain  condition. My rabbits also have access to Oat or Barley straw or good grassy hay several times a week. The little extra work can pay off on show day. They don’t always win but if the judge says “good flesh condition or excellent fur” at least I feel they’ve had a fighting chance.

To summarize then;

Start with stock that has the genetic potential to retain condition.

Choose a feed and stick with it, let the rabbits cull themselves to your feed and don’t try to constantly adjust the feed to the rabbit.

Make sure there is a reliable supply of water.

Insure that adequate ventilation without any draughts or dampness is provided, poor housing leads to poor condition.

Keep notes on how long each animal stays in show condition, this really helps when planning your future breeding programs…... Good condition tends to run in families.

The above notes are based on my experience primarily with Utility type rabbits in Southern Ontario. Some allowances can be made for some fancy breeds where markings, wool quantity or a racy appearance is required. However, a beautifully marked animal in poor flesh or coat condition stands little chance of winning on show day.

Ed White

2005