know how much lye it takes to do this. A fixed oil or carrier oil is what you will use. Each oil has its own sap value. Using the

chart below and the following formula you can figure out

the amount needed. For each oil used multiply the ounce x sap value =

the amount of lye needed. Add the totals for all oils used to get the exact

amount of lye. Or you can use a lye calculator.

You just put in the amount of each oil hit submit

and it does it for you. A really cool thing. The link is at the bottom of the page.

Formula--Ounce x sap=amount of lye(from RainbowMeadow)

Oil Name	Sodium Hydroxide			Oil Name	Sodium Hydroxide
Almond,Sweet	.1360	Superfatting		Lard	.1380	mild,hard bar,does not lather well
Avocado	.1330			Olive	.1340	mild,very hard bar,low lather
Beeswax,White	.0690	hardness		Palm(not kernal)	.1410	extra mild,soft bar,rich long lasting bubbles
Canola	.1240			Palm,Stearic	.1410	harder bar
Castor	.1286	richness,lather		Safflower	.1360
Cocoa Butter	.1370	richness		Shea Butter	.1280	superfatting
Coconut	.1900	drying,limit use,lather		Shortening(veg)	.1360	Sub for tallow,soft bar,low bubbles
Corn	.1360			Soybean	.1350	sub for olive or palm
Grapeseed	.1265			Tallow,beef	.1405	mild,hard bar,small creamy bubbles
Jojoba	.0690	superfatting		Walnut	.1353

Discounting~~The above method gives you the exact amount of lye. For laundry soap this is fine but not for the skin. When you find your amount of lye subtract 5-7%.

Water~~distilled or spring. Tap water contains to much junk

and reeks havoc with your mix. Water is used to carry the

lye around to work its magic on the oils. A good rule is six ounces per #

of oil (fat).

Trace~~After slowly pouring the lye/water into

the oils and stirring the lye will begin to work by creating

something called trace. Depending on what type of oil you use

and which stirring method it can take a few minutes to 1 hour.

Your mix will become thicker and will eventually look like

a custard. When you drop some on the top it will stay there

and then sink in. Then you are ready to add additives scent

and superfat.
Superfatting~~This is simply adding extra oil after

you get trace. The lye has done its job and will not turn this extra

oil leaving it to nourish the skin. You can add 2-5% of total oils used

however keep in mind what you discounted the lye at the beginning.

If you discounted 5% lye and you add 5% superfat you

will actually be superfatting 10%. The soap could get kind of

stinky with to much "free" oil.

Scenting~~This is pretty easy. Scent it the way you want.

You can use eo's (essential oils) or fo's (fragrance oils).

Essential oils have healing qualities. Fo's are considered "dead" oils. The following chart may help with what's what.

I find that if using fo's you don't need as much.

Essential Oils Per # Of Oil .4 Mint & Spice .9 Citrus's .7 All others

Bugs	Lavender,Mints,Eucalyptus,Cedar,Citronella
Wrinkles	Clary,Patchouli,Rose
Dry Skin	Clary,Palmaroas,Rose,Rosemary,Sandlewood
Oily Skin	Lavender,Lemon,Bergamot
Rashes	Lavender,Tea Tree,Chammomile
Athletes Foot	Cedar,Patchouli,Tea Tree

Temps~~The tempurature of the lye/water and the oils

should be the same. For small batches 1-2 #'s they should be mixed at 115-120. The larger batches at 100ish. Larger batches have more

volume and can create more heat on thier own. Small batches can't

therefore needing to start out higher. It takes a bit of

practice to get the timing right. If one gets to cold or to hot

you can water bath by sitting the pot or container in a sink of cold or hot water.

Tips~~ Glass thermometers are fragile and break easly.

Use the metal type.

~~ It is easy to work with any amount of oil if you work in %'s. If you want to use 25% coconut oil take the total amount of oils and X by 25%.
Do this for each oil.

~~ If you are working with a small amount of lye and water
melt your solids before as a small volume of lye/water does
not get as hot and you don't have as much time to prepare the oils.

~~ The next tip comes from Tina and Dirk
from Majestic Mountain Sage~~Each pound of fat needs a mold that allows for 3-1/2 cups of volume. Test the mold with water
to determine the amount of volume your mold will hold.
If you prefer the cubic inches route then allow 35 cubic inches
for each lb of fat.

All the %'s given are basic guidelines.

Once you get a "feel" for it break free!!.

It's your soap so play around with it.

Click here for the lye calculator

Soap Oils.Com-East Coast Suppliers