The John and Ron Cliffs Access: Route F
Approach: From Luskville Falls picnic ground, hike north-west
along the base of the escarpment, past the entrance to the Western Cwm.
Continue on along the base, passing a signpost to the Fire Tower and
Lac Charette. Descend into and out of a gully just past the signpost
and continue across a field to another gully. Immediately before the
gully, start bushwhacking directly uphill.
The cliffs should come into view on the left, after a short while.
They may be hard to find when the leaves are on the trees.
Character: The hillside here is very rocky, with several bands of
extensive, but mostly broken rock. The climbs are all located at the
right end of the most prominent band of rock, on a vertical right-angled
buttress, less than halfway up the escarpment. The buttress is about
12m high. Descent is immediately to the left of the buttress.
The climbs are described from left to right.
Hex Without 5.6
The obvious chimney/crack on the side of the buttress facing the
Ottawa River.
Dogleg Aid
Immediately right of Hex Without. Climb a very thin crack on small nuts,
then traverse right and up to the top past two in-situ pins.
Here Today 5.9
Start up Fire Free until possible to step left onto ledges leading out
to the arete. Make a couple of delicate moves to gain the arete,
which is followed more easily to the top. The crux hold fell off on
the first ascent, after the second had just passed it. The route is
probably somewhat harder than 5.9 now.
Fire Free 5.5
The obvious clean crack, on the side of the buttress facing the gully.
Johnny Rock 5.10
The left-curving thin crack 2m to the right of Fire Free is climbed
all the way to the top.
Grolsch 5.7
The irregular crack 3m right of Johnny Rock.
To the Top Take Me Home
