TRIP OF A LFETIME DAY 2

It was cold...it was gray...and it windy as I stepped out onto a wharf to shoot the IDA LEWIS LIGHT(aka as Lime Rock). It wasn't the plan to shoot here first. Either the map was incorrector I was reading it wrong, but Goat Island and Rose Island were not easily found. Knowing I was leaving town the same way I was entering I decided not to waste time and headed for Ida's light.

Not a major light and not easily discernable, I walked out on a parallel pier and shot across some water at the light. I wasn't sure the tiny lantern would be visible in shot. Before returning to the van I looked out across the harbor. I could see the the two lights I passed on earlier. It wouldn't be hard to get there from here.

(Mileage 400.2...7:06am)

What I learned here made me giggle. You didn't need permission from the Castle Hill Coast Guard to be on their property to shoot CASTLE HILL LIGHT because it isn't on their property. It is on the property of "The Inn at Castle Hill." Ignoring the warnings of 'only registered guests allowed,' I parked in the lot closest to the path and walked a short distance.

The first view of this light is unique. You emerge from a wooded path, look right, and only the lantern is visible. Perched on a cliff, the light appears built into the stone wall overlooking the harbor entrance. To get to the light's front door you need to walk down steep steps. With the wind blowing and the severity of the stairs, I declined to do that. I shot the light from three sides. That was enough.

The sun was out for the first time today. The view overlooking the harbor was magnificent. The sight was almost a reversal from last night. It was now clear enough to see Beavertail off to the south and west.

(Mileage 406.2...7:24am)

The directions from Castle Hill back to America's Cup Avenue were clear. Finding the two lights from earlier was much easier...a left...a right...and a left at the 'Welcome to Goat Island' sign. The GOAT ISLAND LIGHTHOUSE was before me, across a small causeway, a small white tower on land poking slightly into the harbor. I remember thinking of this as Von Bulow's light. During his retrial, whenever I saw a news report and they showed pictures of him walking around Newport, the lighthouse seemed always in the background.

ROSE ISLAND LIGHT, sitting in front of the Jamestown-Newport Bridge, was also visible, though a stronger lens would have been desirable. It seemed to be a beautiful Victorian home with a small tower attached to the roof. I had read that the light had recently been restored and is open to guests to act as lightkeepers. How great must this be.

(Mileage 419.6...8:19am)

Again, perfect direction screwed up by mortal man. I was within feet of crossing the Bristol Ferry Bridge when it didn't feel right. I took the last turnoff and re-examined the directions. Sure enough I missed a turn for Miller Street. Finding it now, the end of that road T's off by the river and a view of HOG ISLAND SHOAL LIGHT, a white plug light unfolded, sitting to the left of the bridge.

The site for the shot was still a good quarter mile from the water's edge, making the shot further than I had hoped. The alternative was parking and hiking the distance over private proeprty. I opted for the longer shot.

(Mileage 441.0...9:01am)

It was a short trip back to Rt 24, the main road would lead Rhode Island's last light. The drive down Route 77 from Tiverton to SAKONNET POINT LIGHT was beautiful. Rather than the plug-type caisson, this was a white cast-iron tower sitting on its base. Just offshore, it was a pretty picture with the waves pounding at the light. It was windy and cloudful, but not overcast, and I took the photos from a public fishing area. You could see the Newport Bridge across the water to the west. Leaving the beach I did find the access road described in the book. I parked, walked through quickly to the beach. A more scenic area, maybe better pictures could have been taken from here. I did shoot a few. Massachsetts was next.

(Mileage 460.7...9:59am)

Before going on to Fall River, I thought it better to be safe. I left the extra camera battery home. Next to a Dunkin' Donut stop for coffee was a CVS. I overspent for another battery.

BORDEN FLATS, a short white iron tower built on a caisson in the middle of the river, was in a mixed area. Opposite the Borden Flats Marina, there were warehouses and fuel tanks to one side and a factory across the river. Yet, there were new condominiums cityside, directly behind the marina. To get a better shot, and not seeing anyone in the marina office, I took a walk out on one of the piers. I took the pictures and walked back and then heard this invisible voice. The marina master, though out of sight, questioned my presence. Now knowing this wasn't the voice of God, I told him I didn't need any help, thank you, and on I went.

(Mileage 478.6...10:41am)

Finding the Interstate out of Fall River was a challenge. I could see it but getting to an "on ramp" in the desired direction was an ordeal. This was, however, made up for on the trip to New Bedford. Misjudging the distance on the map, the trip was shorter than anticipated. There were two lights to seen in this town. Getting to them was a chore. They were right where Kochel indicated, but streets weren't that well marked and my intuition didn't aid me until my second pass.

I had to find Twin Pier to shoot PALMER ISLAND LIGHT. Finding a spot to shoot between docked trawlers, it was a distant shot, a small tower light. The pier was a hub. I was ducking fisher-people and cars, boats and birds, until I could get a clear line of sight.

(Mileage 481.4...10:56am)

A short drive through New Bedford on a great named street brought me to the area of the light at BUTLER FLATS. I took East Rodney French Drive and after passing the seawall that surrounded the ferry depot the light was in view. I drove further until the light was opposite me. Built on a caisson, the appearance of this light was different. It was made of brick and had iron trim around the lantern gallery. I found rocks and moored boats to help frame the shot, and because it was closer than many of the river and harbor lights so far seen, I took time to try and compose the shots.

(Mileage 493.5...11:43am)

"Mattapoisett"...is there a better sounding name for a town? That's the location for the light at NEDS POINT. It's sort of Turkey Point-ish in appearance, short white and made of stone. The wind was dying...the sun was trying hard to dominate...and the water had calmed. I climbed some decorative boulders that ringed the grass where the lighthouse stood. Fisher-people and ocean kayakkers began to crowd the water. The changing sky would make for interesting photos, altering the water color and texture...the emerging sunlight skewing the feel of the area by the minute. This was the first light since Watch Hill that I could get close enough to touch.

(Mileage 502.2...12:23pm)

Location was a now a problem. To find the light at Bird Island, reference material said "locate Butler Point Road just above a major intersection in Marion." I missed it the first time through and I doubled back. I saw just plain old "Point Road" and chanced it. Kochel talked of a golf course. Well, a mile down the road was a nine-holer, but there was no water to be seen. Almost tiptoeing, I kept going.

Finally, I saw BIRD ISLAND LIGHT well ahead and to the right. I was opposite the Kitansett Golf Club, one of the most beautiful I have ever seen. I could get no closer...private property !!! I stood on the sea wall to take the pictures from maybe a mile away. Though the gray sky diminished the contrast, the curve of the shoreline and the abundance of water should make for good pictures.

Leaving the area I was still able to tune a NY radio station listening to an interview with George Steinbrenner. "You always here about how difficult it is to play in NY and how some players don't want to. That's BS." He apologized for saying it but the radio hosts broke up laughing...I broke up laughing..and the trip onto Cape Cod...where the next light would be... was a little easier to navigate in that frame of mind.

(Mileage 522.8...12:58pm)

From here Route 6 zigged and it zagged Cape-ward. It crawled through towns and sped through open space. I crossed the Sagamore Bridge, entering Cape Cod. I'm running about an hour ahead of my projected schedule.

(Mileage 531.1...1:14pm)

According to Kochel, I had to find the village of Pocasset, locate Wings Neck Road, ride it to the end, and shoot the lighthouse from the cul-de- sac. Well I did, and WING NECK LIGHT joined the list of lights shot at a distance because they are located on private property. It was a short white tower over-looking Buzzard's Bay. It was the first light on the Cape and got me in the mood to get as far as PTown today.

I was supposed to be able to see CLEVELLAND EAST LEDGE LIGHT from here as well. I'm looking and looking and all I see is this odd shaped structure way, way off the shore. I checked Kochel and the general shape matched the light.so I shot it, or shot at it to be more accurate.

(Mileage 553.1...2:03pm)

So intent was I on getting to Wood's Hole I forgot to follow the directions to Nobska Point. This cost me precious minutes. Circling back I found Nobska Road and followed it to the light.

White, cast iron, and short, NOBSKA POINT is a pretty light, more by way of its setting than by its uniqueness. The word "short" keeps appearing. These lights certainly aren't the stature of Cape Hatteras or Barnegat. Those are built on flat land, at sea level, and must rise 150, maybe 200 feet to be effective. Built on elevations, lights like NOBSKA raises the focal plain making it equal to the coastal giants.

Also, because it is built on a small promontory, it's tough to get a picture with "atmosphere." You can't get high enough behind it, and from in front you are shooting back up the hill. It is all angles. Walking across the street you can see the surf pound the rocks and visualize the light protecting the entrance to Wood's Hole. I tried to capture the "lighthouse on the hill" feeling, trying to shoot the light, the flag, and the quarters, with the Nobska Point Coast Guard sign identifying it, sort of the postcard effect.

(Mileage 580.2...3:07pm)

Personal stupidity reigns once more. Traveling Rt.28 was ordeal enough, traffic and lights the full 30 mile trip. However, when it came to locating the HYANNIS HARBOR LIGHT, I truly outdid myself.

Following directions I would swear it read "at the end of the harbor." I parked, walked the access path to the shorline, and scanned the water. I saw a tower off to the right, wasn't really sure, so I shot it. Walking back, still doubting whether I had seen the light or not, for no good reason I stretched before moving on and looked up. I saw a lantern room and top half of a light tower behind a tall fence. I looked at the book again. It actually said "turn on Harbor Road. Light is at the end of Harbor." There it was...right next to where I was parked. I again lost time, but I did get the picture.

I may also have seen POINT GAMMON LIGHT. There was a tower directly across the harbor and resembled the light Mere and I saw many years ago on the Hyannis Harbor boat tour. I pointed...I shot...we'll see.

(Mileage 590.6...3:43pm)

The light at BASS RIVER is mentioned on every list, listed in every book and noted several places on the web. Continuing on Rt. 28, this light is located in West Dennis. Though now the "Lighthouse Inn," the middle section, easily discernible, was the lightkeeper's quarters, and the red lantern signaled the top of the original structure. It bore resemblance to POINT LOOKOUT. I stepped onto the seawall in front. My wide angle couldn't capture it all. I snapped it in sections and will try to recompose it.

(Mileage 603.0...4:13pm)

STAGE HARBOR LIGHT was going to be a safety valve. To reach Provincetown tonight was my goal. I still needed to make it through Chatham, Nauset, and Highland Light. If I felt missing the others was possible I was going to eliminate this shot. Poking up Rt. 28 I saw the cutoff, Barn Hill Road, and decided to try. I followed directions to Harding Beach, parked at the far-eastern part of the lot and climbed the dune. It could be seen a good distance up the beach. As time was an issue, I wasn't making the walk. I found the highest dune and started shooting. Without a lantern or lens it bore similarity to Sandy Neck, in Barnstable, which I would revisit tomorrow.

(Mileage 607.2...4:28pm)

CHATHAM LIGHT is at the "elbow" of the cape. Navigating shop-lined, pedestrian filled streets, you turn rigth at the 'T," along the water and arrive at the station. Perched high on the cliff, it was a white tower similar to Nobska. Once twinned with the structure now at Nauset, the base of the old tower is still visible to the right of the station. I couldn't take pictures from the beach. It was too far below the light.

(Mileage 624.7...5:07pm)

I was curious to see NAUSET LIGHT. I did much web site reading about the relocation project and wanted see the result. I was disappointed. Perhaps there is more work to do but the feeling I got was the move was done without any concern for esthetics. Red on top and white on the bottom, the light was the same...it just gave the feeling being "plopped" on its new spot. There was no "feel" here...just a clearing with a 'placed light.' The erosion was apparent because areas closer to the cliffs were roped off and marked unsafe. The move was obviously necessary. It is still 100 feet above the beach, only much further away.

...and I almost missed THREE SISTERS. There was a sign and an arrow, but I saw nothing. Driving out Nauset Road, there they were, tucked to one side, three in a row. I parked in a "no parking" area and shot quickly. I would have felt bad if I missed them.

The "Three Sisters" were the lights used at Nauset prior to the Chatham transplant...three lights being used to distinguish this site from the "twins" at Chatham. Like the story of Nag's Head, "wreckers" simulated these lights to lure ships aground. These were the second set, the first a victim to the eroding cliffs...

(Mileage 641.4...5:46pm)

While the move at Nauset looked haphazard, from first glimpse the move of HIGHLAND LIGHT had a natural feel. On my first visit to the oldest light on Cape Cod you couldn't view it from the front. Now this taller white tower was viewable from all sides, and at sunset, with Provincetown in the background, it made for a pretty site, especially as Wood's End and Long Point Lights began their night's work. More stable than the eroding cliffs at Nauset Beach, the path leading to the falloff ended in a viewing area, complete with seating. A stake marked the center point of the tower prior to the move.

While not as spectacular as the sunset at Beavertail, by walking onto the adjoining golf course, I took many pictures of the tower against the changing sky. More spectacular pictures for sure.

(Mileage 656.8...6:13am)

(Provincetown Inn...Provincetown)

I entered Provincetown on Route 6, then turned on Commercial Street, past all the shops, most closed this post-summer season. I checked into the Provincetown Inn because I saw no other "name" places to stay. I did check out the Moors, where Mere and I stayed on our first married vacation, but it was so dark and bleak I returned back to the inn. It wasn't that great...kind of small...musty odor...but it was convenient to the Ptown lights (Wood's End outside my window) and it was reasonable.

I got every light...EVERY LIGHT...on my list for this day. I ate a cheesburger at some dive grill becasue the grill at the inn was not open. Returning to the room to check my notes, I called Mere and studied a bit for tomorrow. I was so tired that I didn't even see the Yankees fall behind 5-0. I was asleep by 9pm.

BACK AND FORTH

Trip of a Lifetime Day 3
Trip of a Lifetime Day 1
RETURN TO INTRODUCTION

Email: spotncrokr@aol.com