TRIP OF A LIFETIME DAY 3
(Mileage 656.8...6:13am)
RACE POINT, WOOD'S END, LONG POINT...the three Provincetown lights. None easily accessible...a plan of attack needed to be formed...one that would waste little time...one that would let me shoot and move on quickly.
Up since 3am, I was flipping between local news and the weather stations, not wanting to believe temperatures of 38 degrees, windchills colder than that. Thanks to a 'bulletin board' response, a gentleman from Akron clued me in on the best way to shoot these lights. I formulated my plan, waited for daylight, and charged out into the cold and wind.
Though the lot of the Provincetown Inn is at the base of the breakwater that leads to Wood's End Light, it was still near dark so I chose to shoot RACE POINT LIGHT first. I headed to Herring Cove Beach (not Race Point Beach) and pulled as far eastward as possible. There were many fisher-people vehicles but I maneuvered for the furthest spot. I could see how far the light still was. I could sense how strong the wind was. I knew I would be walking straight into it.
Just barely light, clouds were hiding the sun. Plodding along the sand, I bowed my head just a bit and trudged lightward. I could see the short tower a distance away, the beam still working. Another small cast iron tower, I stopped every 100 steps until I felt I had a good enough picture. I passed one fisher-person as he landed a striped bass and was trying to figure if it was legal. Closer and closer until I was at least 2/3 there. I decided to shoot. It was tough, doubly tough. Not quite in daylight, the exposure was longer. The wind was also cruel. Steadiness was what I was hoping for. At least the walk back would be with the wind. The fisher-person threw the bass back.
(Mileage 659.3...7:09am)
Much brighter now, I began my assault on WOOD'S END LIGHT. Back at the lot of the Ptown Inn, the breakwater began at the base of Commercial Street, at the plaque commemorating the Pilgrim's Landfall. It was now fully light, the tide low, and I walked 1/2 way out to get the pictures I wanted. What kept spooking me was the sound...a honking sound...made by the many blue herons calling the marshy area on either side of the boulders home. As they sensed me coming they flew out from their hiding places, making a sound that stopped me dead.
(Mileage 660.7...7:29am)
The Provincetown Marina Wharf afforded the best view of LONG PONT LIGHT. It was a long walk and an easy shoot. The wind was still brisk, though the temperature was warming. It was here I made my bird observation. As windy as it was, seagulls sat on the pilings always facing the wind. Pigeons, on the other hand, sat on the roofs of the wharf buildings, on the side protected from the wind. Mr. Audabon would have been proud. Like Wood's End, this was a smallish brick tower, easily seen and shot. Trawler's and fishing boats added to the photos.
Leaving the wharf I found an open coffee/croissant shop. Both were excellent. I would have liked to have been closer to each of the three lights but time and temperature wouldn't allow it. I'll be back this way again....and I'll make it closer...guaranteed
(Mileage 710.8...8:46am)
Route 6 is the direct way to get anywhere on Cape Cod. Route 6a parallels it to the north and is a more scenic...more leisurely drive...two adjectives I didn't have time for this day. I was upset for getting on 6a far too early on my trip to Barnstable to see SANDY NECK. I should have checked the map more closely.
I knew this would be a long shot over water to a spit not accessible by van. I pulled into the beach area and took a few distant pictures. I was about to leave because the next light would be a goodly distance, but instead turned back eastward on a local road. A mile or so down, I turned towards the water. At the dead end I was presented with a closer view of the light. With some tall grass and some moored sailboats I took more pictures.
(Mileage 768.4...10:22am)
Doing the research I found there were two lights between Barnstable and Scituate. They were in the Plymouth area. The landbased one, Plymouth Light, seemed accesible by foot, entailing a multi-mile hike. Too time consuming, it was an easy decision to not go here. The one in the water, Duxbury Pier, I couldn't tell from reading whether a shot was possible or not. I left that mystery for another day.
Scituate would be a sixty mile drive from Barnstable over state highways. Route 3..quick...Route 3A... scenic. That's why it took almost two hours. It was worth it. Protecting a pretty harbor town, SCITUATE, built of an off-white brick and stone, had a tapered shape to the tower that flared to a unique blue lantern room. The sun was now out and memories of a freezing morning were gone. Boats and fisher-people abounded. "Big Dog" came off. The sky was virtually cloudlesss and a very deep blue.
(Mileage 779.1...11:02am)
MINOT'S LEDGE was one light I wanted to see. I knew it was off the coast. Kochel said there was a viewable spot. I almost didn't get there. The streets were annoying in that only cross streets are marked. Changing towns, or twists and turns. or fiveway intersections, chances are good you are guessing that you are on the same road. One wrong turn later (turns out that would be an omen) I found the street that would take me to the street that would connect me to the road where a left turn would bring me to the viewing beach.
I was looking for Sandy Beach in the town of Cohasset. Once found, the light would still be off shore to the southwest. The illusion of it "sitting" on water just enhanced all the stories I read about the difficulty of its erection. It is 60' tall, and it is just there. I wanted the best possible pictures badly enough to actually climb high on shoreline jetty-stones to give myself the best view while still staying dry.
(Mileage 820.6...12:40pm)
The wrong turn on the way to Cohasset paid off here. Using that turn allowed an easy access back to State Hiway 3a. Deciding not to shoot any lights in Boston, I needed to get back to the hiway...to connect with the interstate...to lead to the tunnel...to put me on the right road to Marblehead. Nothing was planned for Boston because I didn't want to wander about a strange city, fighting city traffic...dueling with city drivers...and not being sure of what lights could be seen. Lighthouse Digest touts many Boston Harbor cruises and I can see myself on one in the future.
So MARBLEHEAD LIGHT was next. Marblehead was a town to be shopped but there wasn't the time today. The light was a narrow brown tower with spider arms branching in a triangular shape to provide support. The resemblance to Fort Mott and Tinicum here in N.J. was obvious. Located on a high point I was unable to compose a shot with the harbor in view. That was a shame because it was a picture that needed to be shot, a postcard waiting to happen. The weather was now perfect and looking out over the water other lights were visible. I could look straight ahead and see Hospital Point. If I looked to the right there was a huge tower not noted in my book. Far to the right would be Baker's Island.
(Mileage 826.3...1:17pm)
Not many lights merit the adjective "cute." DERBY WHARF in Salem does. It is a little plug of a light, white and rectangular, not very tall, sitting at the end of the pier. I found Derby Street, but almost passed the light it because I wasn't sure what I was looking for. I just happened to look right at the correct time. Parking in the "Witch City" was an ordeal and I found a place five blocks away. I walked down to the pier and had to go almost to the end because of its size, or lack of it. There were party boats and sightseeing craft moored on either side. The walk back took me past a souvenir shop...which meant shirts for the boys and Mere and a magnet for mom....Witch City, you know.
(Mileage 828.0...1:46pm)
Next was FORT PICKERING LIGHT, just up the road. Tucked inside Winter Island Park, the small light was just there for the shooting. A unique setting because it was below me, this was one opportunity to get lots of water shots...and shots framed by trees...and shots framed by rocks...pictures just not available at other locations. By no means a major light, it was just in the right creative spot.
In another part of the park the Coast Guard was practicing sea rescues. The helicopter and divers drew crowds and the noise was overwhelming. Hospital Point and Baker's Island Lights were visible from here.
(Mileage 834.8...2:25pm)
Next stop? Just another chance to exhibit my stupidity. For all who care, "to" and "thru" are different in meaning. I went "to" the intersection and turned. I then wandered. If I had gone "thru" and then turned, as the directions suggest, I would have come right down to the water.
HOSPITAL POINT is a pretty setting but a tough light to shoot. It's on private property and the gates were shut. The sign read "Coast Guard Maintained" but closed gates (unlike the same signs, but open gates, at Point Judith and Watch Hill) kept me out. It's a tough shoot because the short white tower is on the far side of the keeper's home, a two story white building on well-kept property. Returning the view, Marblehead and Baker's Island were seen from here.
(Mileage 840.4...2:50pm)
BAKER'S ISLAND LIGHT...Heading to West Manchester to find Kochel's recommended spot I saw some magnificent homes. The light? I found it, I shot it, I left it. It was still far off shore...closer than Faulkner's Island, not as close as Lattimer's Reef. That huge tower that was visible from Marblehead? It was off to my left. A light? I'm not sure. I'll email my buddy. I'll write the New England Lighthouse person I've seen online. and I'll post a note on the bulletin board. Someone will know.
(Mileage 848.1...3:07pm)
I was excited. I made Cape Ann, the last area planned, about twenty minutes behind projection but with about three hours to find all I needed to see. Gloucester is the first town on the Cape and you immediately see TEN POUND ISLAND LIGHT in the harbor. It is small, sitting close to land in Gloucester Harbor. It was rendered useless by Eastern Point and the Gloucester Breakwater lights, visible far out and to the right.
(Mileage 856.6...3:44pm)
Many years ago EASTERN POINT was easy to locate. This time I went past the turn twice. Directions were plain as could be. Now, after two passes, I finally figured it had to be the private road. If I read the book closer, I would have known it. Turning, ten minutes later, I was at the light. Being low tide, there were lots of rock shots to take. Another small, white-painted brick structure, it stands on a promontory marking the entrance to Gloucester Harbor.
The GLOUCESTER BREAKWATER LIGHT was about 1/4 mile out into the water and connected to land much the same way Wood's End was, by a stone, more like a boulder, breakwater. Going halfway, I shot headed towards towards Thatcher Island.
(Mileage 866.4...4:37pm)
Kochel described a viewing area for THATCHER ISLAND's twin lights. Along the way I saw the sign for the Cape Ann Motor Lodge. One rainy night, many years ago, Mere and I stayed there while visiting the area.
Twisting and turning, I found the turn, left and right, and came to the waterfront, only rocks and water between the island and me. So close...if I had real moxie, I would have climbed the rocks and gotten even closer. Unlike the Twin Lights of Navesink...or even the "original" twins at Chatham...these were two full size towers maginificently situated on opposite ends of the island. Through the viewfinder I was so close I could almost touch them. The water...the rocks...the lights...without knowing in advance...I think this is the view I came to see when I left home two days ago.
(Mileage 869.6...4:52pm)
Bearskin Neck is a shopping spit of land in Rockport. I wanted to get Mere something and found a pottery shop. She would like what I bought. I wanted to shop for me, but mostly everything was closed. STARITSMOUTH ISLAND LIGHT was visible from here. It wasn't a close shot, but with the fishing boat coming into view, maybe it will be a pretty shot. Not a large light, sitting out there, on that island in the harbor, the importance of the light was apparent.
(Mileage 878.7...5:36pm)
Funny, this was the last light on the list, yet it was the only one I was ready to give up on. The directions didn't make sense and I kept going in a circle, winding up at the same spot on the water and not seeing the light. Returning to the main road, ready to shrug my shoulders, I saw a sign that looked familiar. I pulled over, got my bearings, and was there within two minutes. Beautiful shots of ANNISQUAM HARBOR LIGHT in a setting sun made me feel just a bit better. It was time to head home.
(HEADING HOME...5:48pm)
