--- Mikes Carb Modification ---

*Note from editor*
This webpage is for entertainment purposes only. If you do these mods, do so at your own risk. I personally do not know carbs good enough to screw with them. And hopefully, it will be along time before I have to.

This modification was sent to me from Mr. Mike

HI Mark, Want 20 % more power from your KLR ? I've found the key ingredients; Carb_ 42 pilot jet, 160 main, raise your stock needle with a .06 to .07 thousands washer. Remove the cap covering the air/fuel mixture screw, drill it out! Mine is set at approximately 1-1/2 turns out. While the carb is off, remove the intake screen in the boot between the air filter and the carb. Be sure to vacuum any screen remnants. The screen is a restrictor. Cut the top of the air box, I used a 1 inch hole saw for the corners, sawed and filed the edges, finishing the edges with steel wool for a professional look. Stay within the radius of the air box top. Your cut-out should look like an "L". Leave your air box door on, your filter will stay cleaner longer. You should notice your temp drop to 1/4 hot or less, and no need for the choke unless it's really cold out. Oh yea, with stock gearing, hold on. If you gas it in 1ST. up to 4000 to 5000 ,let off the gas then quickly grab full throttle, your front wheel will loft high into the air or you'll be on your tush watching your bike go down the street with out you. P.S. mileage is 48 mph. I've done three KLR's like this and everyone loves it.

More notes from Mike

HI again.
1. The exhaust is a supertrapp IDS Slightly modified internals for better flow and No Disks. The New IDS2 is looking very nice for flow. Congrates to the engineer at Supertrapp who came up with this design! They do sell the new tip for the folks with the old style IDS muffler.
2. 160 main jet. Measurement concludes as 1.60 mm. conversion is .039371 x1.60 mm = .0629936 or 1/16 th.
3. Some companies have proprietary sizes of their own .
4. Testing elevation is at sea level. For all you fellows who are high all the time you must compensate. The KLR is already jetted pretty much for altitude in it's stock form.


1. Don't believe everything on the internet. I started out trying what I read and implemented some of them, only to realize that the information was incorrect. Any information I post is tried and true or I would still be testing it. 2. I have a Honda XR and it does not have a screen in the intake. Honda has designed their air box with a rubber grommet in an existing cut out. This is for government requirements to meet air quality standards. With the grommet in place, your air flow is 6 cubic inches of air per minute, with this grommet removed you now have 64 cubic inches per minute. This is a dramatic increase in flow that must be compensated with fuel or your motor will run to lean and seize. At the other end of the spectrum, you gain the horsepower that the motor is capable of. My Honda is up on the main from 138 to 162 . The power range is from idle to full power with not a hesitation or lag anywhere. 3. What we did here with the KLR, was to increase airflow and fuel at the same ratio, moving away from the lean mixture. 64 CIM appears to be the correct amount of air we tried to attain, and that was exceptable with the size of the airbox. You can attain similar results by removing the airbox door. But I found this to expose the air filter to much debris, and a bit to much air. The proof is evident in your temperature gauge dropping to a cooler temp. and the power you feel in your butt. And I have yet to see a screen in the intake of any race motor, bike or car. P.S. Add a supertrapp with no disc's in place, "HOLD ON!" Ride On !


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