--- Mikes Carb Modification ---
*Note from editor*
This webpage is for entertainment purposes only. If you do these mods, do so at your own risk. I personally do not know carbs good enough to screw with them. And hopefully, it will be along time before I have to.
This modification was sent to me from Mr. Mike
HI Mark, Want 20 % more power from your KLR ? I've found the key
ingredients; Carb_ 42 pilot jet, 160 main, raise your stock needle with
.06 to .07 thousands washer. Remove the cap covering the air/fuel
screw, drill it out! Mine is set at approximately 1-1/2 turns out.
carb is off, remove the intake screen in the boot between the air
the carb. Be sure to vacuum any screen remnants. The screen is a
Cut the top of the air box, I used a 1 inch hole saw for the corners,
and filed the edges, finishing the edges with steel wool for a
look. Stay within the radius of the air box top. Your cut-out should
like an "L". Leave your air box door on, your filter will stay cleaner
longer. You should notice your temp drop to 1/4 hot or less, and no
the choke unless it's really cold out. Oh yea, with stock gearing, hold
If you gas it in 1ST. up to 4000 to 5000 ,let off the gas then quickly
full throttle, your front wheel will loft high into the air or you'll
your tush watching your bike go down the street with out you. P.S.
is 48 mph. I've done three KLR's like this and everyone loves it.
More notes from Mike
1. The exhaust is a supertrapp IDS Slightly modified internals for
flow and No Disks. The New IDS2 is looking very nice for flow.
the engineer at Supertrapp who came up with this design! They do sell
new tip for the folks with the old style IDS muffler.
2. 160 main jet. Measurement concludes as 1.60 mm. conversion is
x1.60 mm = .0629936 or 1/16 th.
3. Some companies have proprietary sizes of their own .
4. Testing elevation is at sea level. For all you fellows who are high
the time you must compensate. The KLR is already jetted pretty much for
altitude in it's stock form.
1. Don't believe everything on the internet. I started out trying what
read and implemented some of them, only to realize that the information
incorrect. Any information I post is tried and true or I would still be
2. I have a Honda XR and it does not have a screen in the intake.
designed their air box with a rubber grommet in an existing cut out.
for government requirements to meet air quality standards. With the
in place, your air flow is 6 cubic inches of air per minute, with this
removed you now have 64 cubic inches per minute. This is a dramatic
in flow that must be compensated with fuel or your motor will run to
and seize. At the other end of the spectrum, you gain the horsepower
the motor is capable of. My Honda is up on the main from 138 to 162 .
power range is from idle to full power with not a hesitation or lag
3. What we did here with the KLR, was to increase airflow and fuel at
same ratio, moving away from the lean mixture. 64 CIM appears to be
correct amount of air we tried to attain, and that was exceptable with
size of the airbox. You can attain similar results by removing the
door. But I found this to expose the air filter to much debris, and a
much air. The proof is evident in your temperature gauge dropping to a
cooler temp. and the power you feel in your butt. And I have yet to see
screen in the intake of any race motor, bike or car. P.S. Add a
with no disc's in place, "HOLD ON!" Ride On !
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