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RABBITRY
Rabbitry is the term for the housing and operation of raising rabbits. It can be as simple as a few outdoor hutches in the backyard, or as elaborate as a full scale commercial operation. Hobby breeders fall in the middle.
A rabbitry can be in any form that protects the rabbits from the weather. Barn, shed, garage, carport, basement, or even a dog kennel w/ roof cover. Cages are usually set up within these structures, but well-built free-standing hutches do nicley as well. Breeders are very inventive when it comes to their rabbits.
Climate will dictate what type of rabbitry you have. Regions with mild winters can get by with an open style of rabbitry like a carport or hutches. Cold regions require heating, and an enclosed building is best. Cooling is also a concern in hot climates. A shady location helps, and it may be necessary to enclose and air-condition. Another issue is predators. You may need to include features that will keep them from getting at the rabbits.
Once you've decided on what will serve as your rabbitry, you'll add the furnishings and cages that will house your bunnies. Personal preference, expense, and inventiveness plays a big part.
Cages. There are many dealers that sell ready-made or easily assembled cage kits in just about any size you'll need. Some will even build custom size and design. It's not that hard to build your own custom cages from scratch. Cages with wire floors are easiest to maintain, but some breeds require a solid floor. NDs are fine on wire floors. There are different styles and configurations for cages.
..... Stacking. A stacked system is good for limited space. The cages are stacked either on legs, or directly on top of each other. Pans are below each cage to catch waste. Cages designed to be stacked with legs have a sliding track for the pans. Some cages are designed with the pan space as part of the assembly, and these can be stacked directly. In this case, it's recommended to tie the cages together to prevent them from shifting. See my Rabbitry for my stacked system. Each of the stacks was built (by me) as one unit. They're light enough to move around, and make maximum use of a small space.
..... Suspended. This is a system that eliminates the need for pans, and saves much cleaning work. A suspended system needs more space, and a barn with dirt floor is best. The cages are hung from the ceiling, or in some cases on legs. The waste falls to the ground underneath. The manure will pile up, but is an efficient composting system and doesn't cause too much odor. An option is a bin of some sort. It will only need to be cleaned out periodically. Some breeders have found a way to make this work for them by growing worms in the manure bins.
..... Flush Clean. This is every breeder's dream. This is a suspended system that involves a gutter and drain. It can be more than one tier, and there will be an angled shelf that channels waste to the gutter without falling on the lower tiers. It's designed to be hosed out. The gutter channels the waste to a catch bin or drain. It could be connected to a septic system. This system is custom made by a couple of manufacturers, and will be expensive. A homemade flush-clean system is not that hard to build.
Pans or Trays. Pans catch the waste under each cage. They are available through several dealers. They will be made of galvanized metal, or poly plastic. The poly are a bit more expensive but are lighter and said to last longer than metal. The metal pans will eventually rust. If designing and building your own cages, use the pan sizes available to decide the dimensions of your cages.
Cage Furnishings. The bunnies need water and food. There are different ways to provide for this, and then there are some miscellanous items you may like to include.
..... Water. A dish or crock. Crocks are heavier and harder for the rabbit to tip over. A water bottle will keep the water clean and the water supply will last longer. An automatic watering system is an option for a large rabbitry. This is a system of hoses and nozzles that are connected to a water source such as a pail. The hoses are routed to each cage and only the pail needs to be filled with water.
..... Food. Dish or crock. Dishes that clamp to the cage wall are available. A hopper style feeder is good when more feed needs to be available as for a cageful of litter or weanlings.
..... Hayrack. Optional, but nice to keep hay off the floor of the cage and clean. Hayracks can be bought, or make one for next to nothing. A feed hopper is available with a built-in space for hay.
..... Something to chew and toys. Rabbits need to chew. This keeps their teeth in condition and relieves boredom. A clean block of white pine is easily replaced as it becomes soiled or chewed up. You may have safe woods available in your landscape. Apple trees are a fine source of chewing wood and the rabbits enjoy it. Some fruit woods aren't safe when green. If in doubt, just give clean pine. See Misc for suggested toys.
..... Hutch Cards. Cards or tags that identify the rabbit. These can be had through dealers, or you can make your own. I created my own hutch cards with publishing software. I made them as business cards. Each card has space for the bunny's name, color, birth date, ear number, and parents' name and color. I hang them on the front of the cage with clips that I got from an office supply. I cover them with clear biz card sleeves that come as a notebook sheet. I just cut the sleeves apart to use separately. This keeps the cards clean and dry. When a bunny leaves the rabbitry for whatever reason, I save their card. I use the back of these old cards for litter ID and add to the doe's card clip. The litter's data will be birth date and parents, with color and sex added when known. The litter card moves with the litter when they are weaned out. This gives me a quick reference for age and parents until they get their own card. These recycled cards are also used to identify a newly purchased rabbit until I can make them a card.
Furniture and equipment. Now that you've provided for the rabbits, it's time to take care of yourself. There's things you'll need, and things you'll want.
..... Food Storage. A plastic trash can w/ lid is great for storing pelleted feed. It will keep rodents and insects out, and keep the feed dry and fresh. A 30 gal trash can will hold 100 lbs of feed. If you don't have room in the rabbitry to store baled hay, be sure it's stored where it won't get wet or moldy, and raise it off the ground. I have a plastic tote bin that holds quite a bit of hay. I fill it from the baled hay stored in another shed and keep it handy in the rabbitry. I also have a nifty little rolling cart. The hay bin and a pail for feed fits on the top, and I can keep other things on the lower shelf. I roll it around the rabbitry as I do the feeding chores.
..... Water Supply. Plumbing would be awesome, but a hose run from the outside water tap is fine. Keep several gallon bottles filled for emergency water, or quick watering chores. A large watering can with a long spout is an easy way to fill water dishes.
..... Electricity. Best if the rabbitry is wired. Lights and outlets for heaters or fans make life easier. You can run an extension cord from another source if necessary. Be sure that it's safe.
..... Grooming Table. This can be the same table you take to shows, or something permanent. I found a great little wooden side table at a yard sale. It's just the right height and size, has a drawer for grooming tools, and a lower shelf for other stuff. I covered the top with carpet. Any table or work bench that's a comfortable height will do.
..... Shelves. You'll need a place to put other stuff. The shelves can be built onto the walls around or over the cages or table, or if you have room, a free-standing shelf unit.
..... Scales. Weighing NDs is regular routine as their weight is important. I have a great little battery operated digital postal scale. It only goes up to 5 lbs. I put a small plastic basket on it with a non-slip surface for the bunny. The scale calibrates the weight of the basket before I set the rabbit in it. It's very accurate and cost about $30.
..... Carriers. You'll need some for shows, and they are useful for holding rabbits at other times. Such as when you are doing extensive cleaning of cages, or transporting. I do tattoos and photo shoots in the house. I can carry several rabbits inside with a carrier.
..... Holding Cage. A carrier can be used for a temporary holding cage, but I like a small single carrier, too. This is useful for holding an active litter while examining them or cleaning their nestbox, or controlling a single rabbit.
..... Basket. Or some other means of holding a very young litter while cleaning their nestbox. I use an old plastic kitchen collander and line it with paper towel. It's easily cleaned if the kits pee in it, which they usually do when I wake and move them.
..... Cleaning Tools.
.......... Wheel barrow.
.......... Large trash can for bedding material.
.......... Paint scraper, stiff wire brush, broom, dustpan.
.......... Pressure washer. (best investment I've made!)
..... Miscellanous Equipment.
.......... Paper towels, tissue.
.......... Calendar, notepad, pen/pencil.
.......... Gallon water jugs.
.......... Nestboxes.
.......... Spare water bottles and feed dishes.
.......... Extra chewing wood.
.......... Chair or stool.
.......... Fan, heater.
.......... Waste basket.
.......... Hand sanitizer gel.
Compost Pile. If you're a gardener like me, you have a compost pile. The best place to dump rabbit manure. Sometimes I put what comes out of the pans directly on the gardens.
Related Info: Spring Creek's Rabbitry ; Misc ; Glossary
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