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BMR Throttlebody Water Bypass Kit and Airbox trimmed

Not shown here, I also finished removing the baffles in the nose of the OE WS-6 hood, I removed the rear baffle years ago. Now air has a straght path into the airbox. Originally, there are two baffles behind the grilles on the factory ram-air hood. The first directs water (and air) down through two vents on the bottom of the hood to prevent water from rain, splashes, etc. from entering the intake. Behind this baffle is another that directs the remaining air upwards where it can then travel back and towards the airbox and fitler. These baffles slow down and reduce the amount of air that enters the airbox. It works more like a cold air intake than a ram-air setup. Since this T/A isn't driven in the rain (on purpose) I don't plan on this being an issue. Furthermore, there are no seals between the hood and the airbox, so positive pressure cannot be created, this is still true after I removed the baffles. I may add some soft rubber like that used in door seals to help, but there are other places such as the hood itself, that will hamper most pressure created from a true ram-air setup.
The upgrades are not seen unless you know what to loook for.

Before

After
Above is a picture that was taken before the modifications.
As you can clearly see when comparing the before and after picutres, the center support bar is a restriction to airflow.
Also note the location change in the hose routing.
I also found that the throttle body had some build-up inside and on the throttle blade, this can be seen in the image above. I took a few minutes to clean this crap out. I should probably to do this yearly.
The bypass mod is an easy mod and stops the hot engine coolant from passing through the throttle body. As this T/A isn't driven in the winter months, we should have to worry about the throttle blade sticking to the housing. I ordered this from Summit Racing, in a kit by BMR Fabrication for about $25.00 shipped. It comes with caps to close the fittings on the throttle body to keep debris out. The bypass can be removed and the hoses reconnected to the OE locations if needed.
NOTE: After putting everything back together, check that the routing of the hoses clear the large top center pully, it was a tight fit for me.
While I was inthe area, I trimmed the center brace in the intake to allow air to pass into the filter with one less restriction. There are two pieces to trim, one in the filter tray and one in the main filter box. The stack on top of each other when the tray is in the box. I used a Dremel tool and cleaned up the rough edges afterwards with a sharp knife blade.
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