The First Steps in Training Your Puppy for SAR
by Laura England, Vice President MASAR
Hello, Laura here again. I hope you liked my last article, and that it helped you to choose a puppy.
I just acquired my second dog a few weeks ago after seeing an ad in the paper. He is a full-blooded Australian Shepherd. I got him when he was 8 weeks old. There were four to choose from. I tested each puppy individually as I recommended in my article Choosing the Right Dog for SAR.
One of the four was very hyper!
He bounced the entire time I was there. I couldn't even get him to settle down enough to try him out. Definitely not what I wanted. Another one was too laid back, and one was so shy he wouldn't even come near me. (Probably the smartest one ;) The fourth one was it! He was friendly and curious without being overly aggressive, didn't seem afraid of new people or situations, and just generally seemed to be the one. The fact that he was the cutest one was pure coincidence. So, now we have Isaac. Now all I have to do is spend the next year and a half training him. Which brought me the idea for my next few articles, training your pup once you get him home.
Basics Come First
While there are many special skills you will need to teach your puppy if you want him to do rescue work, the basics of obedience must come first. That is what I'm going to cover this time.
Naming and Bonding
When you get your puppy home I recommend spending the first few days letting him get aquainted with his new home and new people. I believe who ever is going to be his primary handler should spend as much time with him as possible, helping him get used to things and developing a strong bond between you as soon as possible.
As soon as you name your pup begin using it any time you talk to him, or call him until he is familiar with it, and will come to it. Generally it will only take a few days of frequent use for puppy to learn his name and come to it.
Housebreaking
The next thing you will probably want to work on is housebreaking. A lot of people think you should paper train puppy in the house, but all this does is enforce the idea that it's OK to go in the house even after the paper is removed. Going outside should be taught from the very beginning. The best way to start is by taking puppy out for a walk or play about 30 minutes after he eats. If he goes outside praise him. Also when you're inside watch for signs of needing out such as circling, sniffing, or whining. If you sense he needs to go out, ask in a upbeat tone of voice "do you want out" and walk toward the door, if he follows and goes out praise him. Remember accidents will happen though, and you should never (ever) rub his nose in it. This encourages eating of feces and can cause infections. If you find a mess go get puppy, sit him next to it and vocally express displeasure. Never call a dog to you when you are going to correct or punish it, as that will discourage him from coming when called. After cleaning up the mess use a disinfectant cleaner to remove any odors to discourage using the same spot.
Chewing
Another thing most new puppy owners find distressing is puppy's desire to chew anything and everything. The best way to deal with this in the beginning is to "baby proof" the house. Simply keep the most tempting objects, such as shoes and books out of harms way. Also getting puppy his own toy helps. It doesn't need to be an expensive or fancy one; I got Isaac a small stuffed animal at a clearance sale. Anything small enough for them to carry will do. Before giving it to him hold it and roll it in your hands a few minutes to get your scent on it. But be aware even with the best planning and care a few things will probably get chewed or moved around. I've had to put my throw rugs back more than once because of a feisty pup. As the puppy gets older you can give him rawhide chews or large solid meat bones to chew also. Just be careful not to give small bones that can splinter.
Leash Training
At the same time you are housebreaking you can begin leash training. When you first introduce the leash do so in a playful time by putting the leash on and letting him drag it around for a while to get used to the feeling of it on his collar. Then start going out for short walks such as when he goes out for bathroom needs. He will probably resist at first and try to chew at the lead and sit down. Do not drag or pull the puppy along, this will only encourage fighting. Just remember as with all other aspects of puppy training you will need to be consistent in using the leash when you go for walks.
Consistency
Which brings me to my next subject, consistency. You should always use the same words for actions or things. Use the puppy's name often when you are giving commands so he will associate the action with himself. Example: when Isaac goes to the door I say very enthusiastically, "Does Isaac want out?" or, "Isaac sit!" and so on. Though it's not always easy, especially after a long trying day, try to keep your voice happy and upbeat when talking to your puppy because pleasing his master is what keeps him trying. Always be sure to praise any steps in the right direction or efforts to please.
All puppies are different, just as people are, and all will learn differently. Hopefully you will find these ideas and guidelines helpful in starting your training. Just keep in mind, whatever you are teaching your puppy to always be consistent with your wording and use as much enthusiasm as you can manage. Even if going out to potty at 6 a.m. in the rain isn't your idea of fun try to make him think it's a great idea.
I'll sign off for now. Once again thank you for visiting our site, and I hope you will continue to do so.
Laura England,
Vice-President
Mid America Search and Rescue
