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Fequently asked questions from the Po' Man's Message board, that Automag has answered. If you have what you think is a good paintball question, ask on the message board. Q: People tell me that Stingrays suck and you can't trick them out, but it's not true! I have a stingray, and I've totally tricked it out with a ceramic barrel, trigger job, etc. I'd take my sting over a spyder any day. My other gun, a Pirahna, will also out-shoot a spyder, and it's better, anyway! A: I'm not saying you couldn't trick out a stingray. All I'm saying is that they DO suck compared to a Spyder. I might be suprised by the accuracy of the one with the ceramic barrel you were talking about, but it would still be more accurate with a Spyder. If you have all that $$$ to spend on tricking out a Pirahna and a Stingray, I have a good suggestion. Neither of those guns is as good as a tricked spyder. SELL THE PIRAHNA AND STINGRAY. Take the money, buy a Spyder, and trick it out. Here's what you should do for it: 1: Spend a little extra money, and get the Spyder TL PLUS. They run about $165, but they got lotsa cool stuff on them. 2: Buy a new expansion chamber if it starts freezing up on you. If you already have a good expansion chamber on one of your other guns, put it on the Spyder if you can. 3: Get a new barrel, like a Perfect Bore, or if you have the cash, a Dye Boomstick. Other than that, the gun comes tricked out already. You might want to eventually go gas thru stock to a 4+1 or something, but the TL + is a great gun. Q: SPYDERS SUCK!!! I have friends with Spders and they have had so many problems with them. They would rather have my Stingray. REASONS FOR BUYING A PIRANHA 1. Spyders have a poor color selection. They are availible in Black, Natural aluminum, and the Shutters are availible in blue and red. While the piranha's are availible in black, black/chrome, green/yellow fade, blue/black, blue silver, titanium,blue splash,red,blue, and a few others i can't remember. 2. Piranha's have electro conversion kits. 3. Piranha's have a sear release for field stripping in seconds. 4. PMI has better customer service. 5. Piranha's have the two hole bottomline with lined up holes, while Spyders have the off-set screw holes. Making the piranha easier to find bottomlines 6. Spyders use metric wrenches. 7. Spyder parts usually cost more than Piranha parts. 8. Piranha's have a vertical body kit out for the people who want a vertical feed. Those are just a few reason's why I bought a Piranha. Q. Why would I want to use an expansion chamber if I'm running Nitro? A. You Don't need one. I think Dye barrels are way overpriced. For what you pay you should get a brand new gun. Also Dye barrels aren't tat great the cheap Custom Product barrels are about as accurate. A: I NEVER SAID that Dye barrels are cheap; that's why i suggested the $50 barrel first. I have a lot of friends too. Many of them have both owned Spyders AND Stingrays, and not one of them chooses the Stingray over the Spyder. Some of the old ones really suck, but the newer ones outpace a Stingray in every category. About the Piranha, it may be a good gun, but it is not hard AT ALL to get a Spyder bottomline kit. There are more aftermarket parts for the Spyder than just about any other gun in existance, certainly more than a Piranha. Spyders have just as many, probably more, configurations than a Piranha. Bottomline, Vertical, Gas thru Stock, Remote, you name it, they have it. You can buy it any way you like, and you can even switch the configuration if you get tired of it. Electro-conversion kits are very problematic. You think a Spyder is a problem, just put one of those kits on a piranha and you'll never be playing because you'll spend all of your time cleaning the busted paintballs out of your gun. What does it matter if the Spyder uses metric wrenches? They give you a wrench with the gun. Anyway, my non-metric wrench set also fits the Spyder. Of course you wouldn't use an expansion chamber if you're running nitro, I was talking about a CO2 setup. Maybe we were on different pages; perhaps your friends were using old spyders or something. Here's my suggestion: run gas thru stock (bottomline, of course) from a Spyder TL+ or another model Spyder to a 47 ci or 68 ci nitro/compressed air tank in your 4+1. Q: I converted my old Pro/Lite so it can fire in Semi or Full Auto using the info from this site. It fires fine in Semi, but when i swich it into F/A i can only fire 3 round bursts.....then it either chops balls or fires air. How can I get it to fire in F/A?? Would a Powerfeed and/or a Revolution Hopper do the trick?? Is there anything else i could do to get this sucker to work?????? A: Both of those options would help a lot. Try out the new fast hopper first, and if that doesn't do the trick, add a powerfeed. Q: I was wondering if you could rig a scuba tank to fill your smaller tanks to use in your guns. Has this been done?Is it possible? A: You could use scuba tanks to fill Compressed Air tanks, but you are probably using CO2 tanks. I'm not sure what type of tank they use for filling CO2; ask someone at a scuba shop or paintball store. Anyway, if you WERE going to use scuba tanks to fill Compressed Air tanks, you would have to have 3 scuba tanks; paintball Comp.Air tanks are filled in 3 stages from a different tank in each stage. Q: I currently have a Tippmann Pro/Carbine and I enjoy my gun very much. However, i was planning to upgrade my marker to the next level. My choice is between the Rainmaker by brass eagle, 2000 Autococker by worr game products, and the 98 automag by Airgun Designs. I've pretty much ruled out the rainmaker, but it is still an option. Which gun should I get? And does the cocker purform much better on nitro or air as opposed to Co2? Thanks. A: Ooooh, the old Cocker vs. Mag debate. Everyone will claim their gun is better, but that's not true. They're just different. Cockers fire farther and straighter than mags. Cockers run better off of CO2 than a mag. Cockers are a pain to keep working. They are complex and break down very often. Cockers are heavier than mags. Mags shoot well, but with a little more of an arc than Cockers. They do not run well off of CO2 without an expansion chamber and remote. They fire much faster than a cocker. They are VERY durable and VERY simply designed, making them easy to keep up and clean. They rarely break down, and if they do, it's easy to repair them. They are lighter than Cockers, but still heavier than most guns. I believe Cockers will work fairly well on CO2, but will function a lot better on Compressed air (like any gun). Mags will work alright with CO2 after you put an expansion chamber and a remote or an expansion chamber and an antisyphon tank on them, but they work much better on Compressed Air. Q: You know for some reason, I would have thought you'd be an AutoMag man, but i can't put my finger on exactly why... Thanks a bunch for the info on the guns, you really seem to know alot. But what about the Rainmaker? Is it a decent gun, or not? At any rate, i think that the cocker seems more the gun for me. The complexity of it is not a problem, and i am more of a sniper than a paint-slinging grunt ground troop. Anyway, thanks alot. :) A: Hehehe I don't know why, but a lot of people seem to think I favor Mags over Cockers.... I guess I'll never know why ;-) Well, I probably shouldn't be shooting down something I've never seen before, but I wouldn't get a rainmaker. It's by Brass Eagle AKA "We never made a good gun EVER: that's our promise, and we're sticking to it!!!" I've never, ever seen a rainmaker in person, and that's probably a sign that it's not the best choice. When you could get a Cocker or Mag for about the same price as a Brass Eagle marker, DONT GO WITH BRASS EAGLE!!! Yes, I do favor Mags, but I hate to have to deal with all that crap they put on Autocockers. I think the way the Cockers fire is awesome, I really like the feel of the gun. Q: Does anyone have some plans/pics of a realistic looking grenade launcher?? 'Im sorry, but the ones on here look kinda crappy. do you guys have ideas on how to make 'em work like a Potato Gun??? (if you don't know how a Potato Gun works....look it up) A: Here's a real beauty. How awesome does this look??? here's the link to the pic: http://members.tripod.com/~Mr_Tail/altweap/m79.jpg Here's the link to the page: http://members.tripod.com/~Mr_Tail/ I believe it's under the "alternative weapons" page have fun! Q: I was thinking of getting a KAPP cradel, what else would I need to mount my screw in Crossfire 68ci tank? A: Probably an air adapter/bottomline kit Q: I would like to know what is best for me, I am a person that has a lot of shoot outs, we go out in the orchards and sage brush. We do more ambushing then sniper shooting, right know I have a spyder, I like it very well but I know there is better out there, just wondering what would be good at reasonable price. A: Well, there's always the Tippmans. They're a little different than the Spyders in some ways, but in my opinion, they basically perform at about the same level. A Spyder TL is always good, also.There really isn't many choices in between the Spyder/Tippman level and the Automag/Autococker level. Basically, anything in- between these two categories is an overpriced Spyder knockoff. Just bite the bullet and get a Mag or Cocker. I prefer the Mag myself (gee, how'd ya guess?), but it depends on your taste. I think a Mag would be better for the style of play you're describing, with brush and stuff. When you get a Mag, get a Nitro or Compressed Air tank. Mags don't run well on CO2, sometimes even after you put it on a remote with expansion chamber. Get two 47 or 48ci tanks, or one 68ci or 88ci tank with a cradle. The 114ci tanks tend to be a little too big. I have 2 48ci tanks on my Minimag. Get a powerfeed and a motorized hopper. Make sure you get the air adapter or bottomline kit or whatever you want if it doesn't come with the gun. Also, make sure you get a barrel. I suggest www.800paintball.com (free shipping for orders over $200) or www.thepaintballstore.com (probably the cheapest prices on the web). To compare Mags and Cockers, look up. I answered that debate a couple of questions ago. Q: 1- what is a drop forward and what does it do? 2-How can a 13 year old get a sponsor? A: Hahahah I'm 19 and I'm not sure if even I can get a sponsor.... Just go to your local paintball stores and ask them about sponsorship. But first, you have to be on a team, of course. I seriously doubt anyone would sponsor a single person. Try any sports stores in the area also, like Play It Again or whatever. Get on the internet, and do some research with paintball companies. The Drop-Forward is a slanted piece of metal that attaches to your bottomline. It takes your tank down and forward a bit, making the gun's balance better (which makes it feel lighter) and makes the gun shorter and more compact. Make sure you have your ASA air adapter, or you'll have to order one with the drop forward. The air adapter is the thingie on your bottomline where the tank screws into the gun. Q: I am a new player and I just bought a phantom. What is speedball and are there rules for these games somewhere? A: Nice gun, I've always wanted to try a Phantom. Anyway, speedball is usually held on a small-scale field that is nothing but a grassy field with wooden bunkers set up. A bunker is basically a large slab of wood that is free-standing, or leaned against something like a tree. With a pump gun, you may be at a disadvantage. Most people use semi-autos, and a few use full-autos. Basically, the field is divided into 2 teams. They play either Elimination (where they try to shoot out the other team) or Capture the Flag. In speedball, a paintball must break on you for you to be considered shot. If it bounces off of you without breaking, you can still play. If you're not sure whether or not it broke, call "Paint check" and a ref will come and check you. DO NOT call "Hit" unless you are sure the paintball broke on you. If you call "hit", you are out of the game regardless of whether the paintball actually broke or bounced. Field rules usually say that if you have more paint than the size of a quarter on you, you're out. One part of speedball is Bunkering. Bunkering an opponent is where you actually come over or around their bunker and shoot them point-blank. Rules on this vary from field to field; most fields have no "20-foot rule." Some say that you actually have to shoot them out, even if you're standing beside the person. Ouch. Others let you surrender people, where if you bunker them, instead of shooting them, you shout, "You're out!" or something like that, and if they try to shoot you, you shoot them. These rules vary from field to field, so ask a ref before going into combat. Q: People tell me that Stingrays suck and you can't trick them out, but it's not true! I have a stingray, and I've totally tricked it out with a ceramic barrel, trigger job, etc. I'd take my sting over a spyder any day. My other gun, a Pirahna, will also out-shoot a spyder, and it's better, anyway! A: I'm not saying you couldn't trick out a stingray. All I'm saying is that they DO suck compared to a Spyder. I might be suprised by the accuracy of the one with the ceramic barrel you were talking about, but it would still be more accurate with a Spyder. If you have all that $$$ to spend on tricking out a Pirahna and a Stingray, I have a good suggestion. Neither of those guns is as good as a tricked spyder. SELL THE PIRAHNA AND STINGRAY. Take the money, buy a Spyder, and trick it out. Here's what you should do for it: 1: Spend a little extra money, and get the Spyder TL PLUS. They run about $165, but they got lotsa cool stuff on them. 2: Buy a new expansion chamber if it starts freezing up on you. If you already have a good expansion chamber on one of your other guns, put it on the Spyder if you can. 3: Get a new barrel, like a Perfect Bore, or if you have the cash, a Dye Boomstick. Other than that, the gun comes tricked out already. You might want to eventually go gas thru stock to a 4+1 or something, but the TL + is a great gun. Q: SPYDERS SUCK!!! I have friends with Spders and they have had so many problems with them. They would rather have my Stingray. REASONS FOR BUYING A PIRANHA 1. Spyders have a poor color selection. They are availible in Black, Natural aluminum, and the Shutters are availible in blue and red. While the piranha's are availible in black, black/chrome, green/yellow fade, blue/black, blue silver, titanium,blue splash,red,blue, and a few others i can't remember. 2. Piranha's have electro conversion kits. 3. Piranha's have a sear release for field stripping in seconds. 4. PMI has better customer service. 5. Piranha's have the two hole bottomline with lined up holes, while Spyders have the off-set screw holes. Making the piranha easier to find bottomlines 6. Spyders use metric wrenches. 7. Spyder parts usually cost more than Piranha parts. 8. Piranha's have a vertical body kit out for the people who want a vertical feed. Those are just a few reason's why I bought a Piranha. Q.Why would I want to use an expansion chamber if I'm running Nitro? I think Dye barrels are way overpriced. For what you pay you should get a brand new gun. Also Dye barrels aren't tat great the cheap Custom Product barrels are about as accurate. A: I know that Dye barrels aren't cheap; that's why I suggested the $50 barrel first. I have a lot of friends too. Many of them have both owned Spyders AND Stingrays, and not one of them chooses the Stingray over the Spyder. Some of the old Spyders really suck, but the newer ones outpace a Stingray in every category. About the Piranha, it may be a good gun, but it is not hard AT ALL to get a Spyder bottomline kit. There are more aftermarket parts for the Spyder than just about any other gun in existance, certainly more than a Piranha. Spyders have just as many, probably more, configurations than a Piranha. Bottomline, Vertical, Gas thru Stock, Remote, you name it, they have it. You can buy it any way you like, and you can even switch the configuration if you get tired of it. Electro-conversion kits are very problematic. You think a Spyder is a problem, just put one of those kits on a piranha and you'll never be playing because you'll spend all of your time cleaning the busted paintballs out of your gun. If you want a real full-auto conversion that works, get the BOO-YAAH trigger frame that makes just about any Spyder into an EM-1 (An electronic Spyder) What does it matter if the Spyder uses metric wrenches? They give you a wrench with the gun. Anyway, my non-metric wrench set also fits the Spyder. Of course you wouldn't use an expansion chamber if you're running nitro, I was talking about a CO2 setup. Maybe we were on different pages; perhaps your friends were using old spyders or something. Here's my suggestion: run gas thru stock (bottomline, of course) from a Spyder TL+ or another model Spyder to a 47 ci or 68 ci nitro/compressed air tank in your 4+1. Q: I converted my old ProLite so it can fire in Semi or Full Auto using the info from this site. It fires fine in Semi, but when i swich it into F/A i can only fire 3 round bursts.....then it either chops balls or fires air. How can I get it to fire in F/A?? Would a Powerfeed and/or a Revolution Hopper do the trick?? Is there anything else i could do to get this sucker to work?????? A: Both of those options would help a lot. Try out the new fast hopper first, and if that doesn't do the trick, add a powerfeed. Q: I was wondering if you could rig a scuba tank to fill your smaller tanks to use in your guns. Has this been done?Is it possible? A: You could use scuba tanks to fill Compressed Air tanks, but you are probably using CO2 tanks. I'm not sure what type of tank they use for filling CO2; ask someone at a scuba shop or paintball store. Anyway, if you WERE going to use scuba tanks to fill Compressed Air tanks, you would have to have 3 scuba tanks; paintball Comp.Air tanks are filled in 3 stages from a different tank in each stage. Q: I currently have a Tippmann Pro/Carbine and I enjoy my gun very much. However, i was planning to upgrade my marker to the next level. My choice is between the Rainmaker by brass eagle, 2000 Autococker by worr game products, and the 98 automag by Airgun Designs. I've pretty much ruled out the rainmaker, but it is still an option. Which gun should I get? And does the cocker purform much better on nitro or air as opposed to Co2? Thanks. A: Ooooh, the old Cocker vs. Mag debate. Everyone will claim their gun is better, but that's not true. They're just different. Cockers fire farther and straighter than mags. Cockers run better off of CO2 than a mag. Cockers are a pain to keep working. They are complex and break down very often. Cockers are heavier and larger than mags. Mags shoot well, but with a little more of an arc than Cockers. They do not run well off of CO2 without an expansion chamber and remote. They fire much faster than a cocker. They are VERY durable and VERY simply designed, making them easy to keep up and clean. They rarely break down, and if they do, it's easy to repair them. They are lighter than Cockers, but still heavier than most guns. I believe Cockers will work fairly well on CO2, but will function a lot better on Compressed air (like any gun). Mags will work alright with CO2 after you put an expansion chamber and a remote or an expansion chamber and an antisyphon tank on them, but they work much better on Compressed Air. Q: You know for some reason, I would have thought you'd be an AutoMag man, but i can't put my finger on exactly why... Thanks a bunch for the info on the guns, you really seem to know alot. But what about the Rainmaker? Is it a decent gun, or not? At any rate, i think that the cocker seems more the gun for me. The complexity of it is not a problem, and i am more of a sniper than a paint-slinging grunt ground troop. Anyway, thanks alot. :) A: Hehehe I don't know why, but a lot of people seem to think I favor Mags over Cockers.... I guess I'll never know why ;-) Well, I probably shouldn't be shooting down something I've never seen before, but I wouldn't get a rainmaker. It's by Brass Eagle AKA "We never made a good gun EVER: that's our promise, and we're sticking to it!!!" I've never, ever seen a rainmaker in person, and that's probably a sign that it's not the best choice. When you could get a Cocker or Mag for about the same price as a Brass Eagle marker, DONT GO WITH BRASS EAGLE!!! Yes, I do favor Mags, but I hate to have to deal with all that crap they put on Autocockers. I think the way the Cockers fire is awesome, I really like the feel of the gun. Q: Does anyone have some plans/pics of a realistic looking grenade launcher?? Do you guys have ideas on how to make 'em work like a Potato Gun??? (if you don't know how a Potato Gun works....look it up) A: Here's a real beauty. How awesome does this look??? Here's the link to the pic: http://members.tripod.com/~Mr_Tail/altweap/m79.jpg Here's the link to the page: http://members.tripod.com/~Mr_Tail/ I believe it's under the "alternative weapons" page have fun! Q: I was thinking of getting a KAPP cradle, what else would I need to mount my screw in Crossfire 68ci tank? A: Probably an air adapter/bottomline kit with microline or steel braided hoses. Q: I would like to know what is best for me, I am a person that has a lot of shoot outs, we go out in the orchards and sage brush. We do more ambushing then sniper shooting, right know I have a spyder, I like it very well but I know there is better out there, just wondering what would be good at reasonable price. A: Well, there's always the Tippmans. They're a little different than the Spyders in some ways, but in my opinion, they basically perform at about the same level. A Spyder TL is always good, also. There really isn't many choices in between the Spyder/Tippman level and the Automag/Autococker level. Basically, anything in- between these two categories is an overpriced Spyder knockoff. Just bite the bullet and get a Mag or Cocker. I prefer the Mag myself (gee, how'd ya guess?), but it depends on your taste. I think a Mag would be better for the style of play you're describing, with brush and stuff. When you get a Mag, get a Nitro or Compressed Air tank. Mags don't run well on CO2, sometimes even after you put it on a remote with expansion chamber. Get two 47 or 48ci tanks, or one 68ci or 88ci tank with a cradle. The 114ci tanks tend to be a little too big. I have 2 48ci tanks on my Minimag. Get a powerfeed and a motorized hopper. Make sure you get the air adapter or bottomline kit or whatever you want if it doesn't come with the gun. Also, make sure you get a barrel. I suggest www.800paintball.com (free shipping for orders over $200) or www.thepaintballstore.com (probably the cheapest prices on the web). To compare Mags and Cockers, look up. I answered that debate a couple of questions ago. Q: 1- what is a drop forward and what does it do? 2-How can a 13 year old get a sponsor? A: Hahahah I'm 19 and I'm not sure if even I can get a sponsor.... Just go to your local paintball stores and ask them about sponsorship. But first, you have to be on a team, of course. I seriously doubt anyone would sponsor a single person. Try any sports stores in the area also, like Play It Again or whatever. Get on the internet, and do some research with paintball companies. The Drop-Forward is a slanted piece of metal that attaches to your bottomline. It takes your tank down and forward a bit, making the gun's balance better (which makes it feel lighter) and makes the gun shorter and more compact. Make sure you have your ASA air adapter, or you'll have to order one with the drop forward. The air adapter is the thingy on your bottomline where the tank screws into the gun. Q: Which is better: a spyder, spyder compact, tippman 98 or raptor? A: Which spyder do you mean when you say "spyder?" If you're looking for a good Spyder, go with the Shutter, the Spyder TL or the TL+. The Spyder compact is better than just about every Spyder model until you get to the TL price range. If you get a Compact, you MUST get an expansion chamber and a new barrel to prevent ball breaks. The model 98 is better than most spyders, but the TL is probably just as good as the model 98. The raptor is no good. It sucks. Spyders and Tippmans are both great guns, shoot both and decide which one suits your style of play better. I suggest either a Tippman or a Spyder TL+ or Shutter. Q: Why is compressed air so much? My co2 only cost $30, but it is the same size... is there any performance difference? A: Compressed air is much better in many ways. 1. The tanks are lighter for their size. 2. The tanks last longer. 3. You get more shots out of a compressed air tank. 4. Frequently, it is cheaper to fill up a compressed air tank than a CO2 tank. 5. Your gun will NEVER EVER freeze up on compressed air, but it will on CO2. 6. You can play in cold weather. CO2 will not work correctly in cold weather. 7. Compressed air is MUCH more consistent than CO2. If you put your gun on a chronograph using CO2, your feet per second (FPS) reading would be at 215, 260, 205, 250. If you used compressed air, it would be 250, 248, 251, 250. This makes your gun more accurate; the paintballs will fly to the same spot every time. Before buying a compressed air tank, you should think about your needs. If you have a Stingray, Tippman, or a fairly inexpensive model Spyder, you really don't need a compressed air tank, unless you're really trying to trick out your gun. If you have an Automag, Autococker, or any upper level gun, it would make a big difference. Q: My spyder compact 2000 is leaking out the sides of the gun and it won't stop while the tank is in. The tank is fine. A: 1. Cock your spyder before you screw in the tank. 2. Check the o-rings. If they degrade, you get leaks. If you need to replace them, some of them are the same size as the kind on your CO2 tank. Others you have to buy a parts kit to get. On a side note, make sure you don't use WD-40 to oil your guns. It destroys all the o-rings. Only use paintball gun oil. Q: A friend of mind took the vertical adapter off his gun and took all the insides out (valve spring, cupseal guide, cup seal, valve pin and the valve body). When he put it back together it leaked air. The cup seal and the o-rings are in perfect condition. I was wondering if anyone might know what could be wrong. A: He needs to re-teflon all of the screws he took out. This is something you should do on a fairly regular basis, it conserves CO2 and eliminates leaks. Wherever you unscrew something, wrap teflon tape on the threads on the male piece. Wrap it around a couple times so you form a thick, tight seal on the part that screws in. Without teflon tape, CO2 is free to leak out. I re-teflon my MiniMag all the time; it really saves air, and it prevents problems from popping up. Q: I am looking to buy a new gun. I am a veteran paintball player and do not have that much money. I can't spend any more than $200 max, can you give me some ideas about some good guns in my price range? A: I would suggest either a Spyder TL (or a TL +), a Tippman Model 98 Custom, or a Tippman Pro-Carbine. If you also have to buy a new CO2 tank, go with the Model 98 Custom because it's the cheapest. Make sure you get the Custom edition; it costs the same as the regular version, and it's easier to modify. Spyder TL - $150 Spyder TL + - $165 Model 98 Custom - $125 Pro-Carbine - $160 Q: How do you take the remote co2 cord off the co2 tank with out losing a lot of co2? A. First, unscrew the valve on your remote to cut off the air supply. Then, fire out all the excess CO2 left in the gun. After that, SLOWLY unscrew the CO2 tank. This will save you air and keep your o-rings working. Q: I have a 2000 millennium edition spyder, and I just am getting others opinion on what is the best bolt for my gun. A: The Bob Long Cyclone bolt is good, and it's not very expensive. Also, bolts made out of delrin are very good. Q: Do you have any tips on how to maintain my paintball gun? A: This may seem like a little thing, but it will make the biggest difference in the world. Believe me. After you buy a paintball gun, ESPECIALLY A SPYDER, OIL IT BEFORE you use it for the first time. People always say, "Spyders ship bone-dry." What this means is that you have almost no oil in your Spyder when you buy it, just some cruddy factory grease. If you don't oil it BEFORE shooting it, you will wear down the parts, and your O-rings. Your gun will suck, to put it simply. MAKE SURE you DON'T use WD-40. It eats up your O-rings, which screws up your gun. Only use Paintball gun oil, like KC's Trouble-free paintgun lube, or PMI oil, or something like that. If you've never oiled your paintball gun, do it now. One of my best friends has owned a Spyder for over a year, and he never thoroughly oiled it. When he took it apart recently, I oiled all of the moving parts and the O-rings for him, and he couldn't believe the difference. The gun fired faster, smoother, more accurately, and even a lot more quietly. Even if you don't have a Spyder, your gun will probably suffer if you don't oil it. I oiled my Mag the day I got it, and it works like a dream. Trust me, you'll be glad you did. Q: Can compressed air be stored in a CO2 bottle for play? A: NO!!! DONT USE A CO2 TANK FOR COMPRESSED AIR. Even if you found some way to fill to a CO2 tank with compressed air, it would be very dangerous. I think CO2 tanks hold about 800 PSI, while compressed air tanks hold 3000 or 4500 PSI. It is harder to make a stronger tank; that's one reason why the compressed air tanks are so expensive. Q: I have a tippmann Model 98 with a flatline barrel. I built a silencer and it didn't work. Then i read somewhere that silencers don't work on open bolt paintball guns. Is this true and if so is there a way to build one for open bolts? i seen the side and rear cocking systems for the 98 and was wondering if they help keep sound down? A: Yes. I have a friend who made a Silencer for his science project. It worked very well. He took a 12 ounce ice tea can, a hole in the closed side, and drilled holes in the sides. He took a small metal tube and drilled holes in the side of that, too. He put the smaller tube inside of the can. He then stuffed tightly-packed polyester pillow stuffing in between the cans. He duct-taped the whole thing to keep it together, and put it onto his barrel. One thing you'll see is that you won't notice much difference with the silencer if you're the person behind the trigger, but if you're downfield from the gun, it will be MUCH more quiet. On a side note, here's a post by a guy named "Advisor": (Quote) Be advised that the BATF has taken the position for many years that a silencer for a paintball marker is a silencer under federal firearms law. Illegal possession of a silencer is a federal felony with severe penalties including prison. Also, many states have laws prohibiting the possession of a silencer, and in at least one state; these laws were used in one documented instance to cause the middle-of-the-night arrest and prosecution of a player who had a paintball silencer in his car seen during a traffic stop. Q: I really like the TL+, it works great and hardly ever breaks a ball (when it's been lubed). Though I would really like to get some better accuracy and less noise out of the gun. I don't have a big budget right now, and barrels seem to be more expensive. Bolts? I don't know which bolts will do the job for me and at a fair price. So which one should I upgrade first, and what kind would be good for what I'm asking for? A: A new bolt won't make that much difference, but a new barrel will make you much more accurate. I'd get the barrel first. Many of my friends who have Spyders like the Dye Aluminum barrel. Personally, I prefer either a ceramic barrel or a Smart Parts Boss Progressive or Smart Parts Perfect Bore. All of these barrels are around $50. If you want a really good expensive barrel, the Dye BoomStick ($110) is the one to get, with the Smart Parts All-American ($90) in a close second. Q: Is Marballizer paint any good? i saw some on the net for a good price but didn't want to buy it because it seemed almost too good of a price. If it is not what is a good paint for a good price? A: Marballizer is a paint made by RP Scherer, it's very good paint, depending on your gun. If it's below about $58, it's a very good price. RP Premium is also very good, and it costs about $45 online. Q: I'm looking for a new gun. i wanna get a spyder one. Everywhere I see one its too much. I'm lookin for a site where I can get a spyder one cheap? Does anyone know? A: It may be a bit overpriced everywhere. I would suggest buying a different gun. If you want a spyder, go for something in the TL series. The Spyder TL and the TL+ are both excellent guns; the TL+ is about $15 more expensive. It differs from the regular TL in that it has a double trigger and a different expansion chamber. You can get a TL for about $145, and a TL+ for about $160. Of course, there's always the Tippmans. I highly suggest the Pro-Carbine, the Pro-Lite, and the Model 98 Custom. They are excellent guns, and durable. Pro-Lite and Pro-Carbine go for about $160, and the Model 98 Custom goes for $125. If you get a Model 98, make sure it's a Custom; they are more upgradeable than the regular model 98, and they cost the same. Q: I have the chance to get an 68 AutoMag Classic and I would like to know if it is worth getting. A.The Automag 68 Classic was my first gun. I made a few mistakes, which you can avoid by reading this. First off, get the powerfeed body. You have to do this; otherwise you'll be splitting paint left and right. It costs about 70 bucks more. If you wait until later to buy it, it costs about 120. For the same reason, you also must have a VL Revolution, or some type of motorized hopper. I would suggest that you get compressed air. Mags are quite fiesty on CO2. They freeze up quickly and start burping and splitting paint every shot. Compressed air also makes your velocity more consistent, giving you more accuracy. If you decide to get CO2, there are a couple of things you MUST do. First off, carry a 20 oz tank, it will provide you with enough air for a good day of paintball. Secondly, get a good expansion chamber. Third, get a 4+1 or similar backpack, and run a COILED hose remote to your tank. The coiled hose is much better for CO2 than the steel braided hose; it will keep liquid out of your gun for MUCH longer, and it's only 10 bucks more. So, you'll have a 4+1 pack holding your 20 oz CO2 tank, which is attached to your gun via a coiled hose. Your gun should have an expansion chamber on it. This air setup will cost about $80 to $100 for the tank, pack, remote, and expansion chamber. Of course, I recommend a compressed air tank. I personally use two 48 ci Pure Energy metal compressed air tanks. I get about 900 or 1000 shots total. Those tanks cost 70 or 80 bucks apiece. Personally, I think they're a little heavy, but it's better than the 114 I used to carry around. Many people prefer a 68 ci tank. The fiber wrapped ones are lighter than a co2 tank, and they'll give you a good amount of shots, especially the 4500 psi ones. Other upgrades I suggest for later are as follows: A drop forward if you have your compressed air tank mounted on your gun. A new barrel. I suggest either a ceramic barrel or a Perfect Bore. I have both, and they are both equal in my opinion. They both cost about $60. If you want to spend more money, you can get a Dye Boomstick. If you are running remote, you might want to get an adjustable gas-thru-stock. It makes your gun much more stable, so you can get off those accurate shots. > If you are running compressed air, you might want a vertical foregrip. It goes in the same place as an expansion chamber, so it helps you hold the gun a bit more steady. New innards. Those Diamond Lab parts are pretty good. I would think of replacing the regulator, that back silver piece on the very back end of the gun. I had a new venturi bolt with a foamie, but I didn't like it. I put the stock bolt back in. A new metal trigger frame. This not only makes the frame different, but it also gives it a new better trigger pull if you get the complete setup. I have a minimag. I have powerfeed, a VL Revolution, Lab regulator, Lab vertical foregrip, bottomline, Perfect Bore barrel, Lab trigger frame (but Spyder rubber grips are the only thing that fit it), gas thru stock, coiled hose, 2 47 ci Pure Energy compressed air tanks, and a 4+1. I can customize my gun to fit the area I'm playing in. Right now, I have a nice speedball setup. I have the gun stripped down to a pistol, no bottomline or foregrip. I run remote to my tank in a 4+1. The remote hooks directly into my regulator. It's fast, and I can shoot it one-handed. The great things about Mags are that you can customize it however you want. Q: Is the new grip for the spyder any good for the Shutter? A: Yes, it will work. Here's a quote from www.thepaintballstore.com BOO YAAH LCD SPYDER GRIP FRAME $239.50 Items included: Spyder ELCD frame Car charger Users Manuel warranty card Fits: Spyder BL Spyder Compact 2000 Spyder 2000 Spyder TL Spyder TL Plus Spyder SE Spyder Shutter Bob long millennium Q: I am getting the LCD grip frame for my spyder. I was wondering what I would need to feed the balls fast enough. A: A VERY fast hopper. Like AT LEAST a 12 volt revolution. Get an 18 Volt if you can find it. The faster, the better. You definitely don't want to pinch pennies on this; if you do, you'll never get a paintball out of the barrel before it breaks. Q: With my new frame whenever I shoot fast the pressures drops off so much there is not enough to re-cock my gun. What should I do? A: You have to have compressed air or nitro to solve your problem. CO2 will cause problems like the kind you've described, among others. Also, adjust the pressure in your gun until it works properly with the compressed air. you can get compressed air tanks pretty cheap; the steel ones are about $70 for 48 ci tanks, and about $130 for 68 ci tanks. Q: I was wondering if I buy 1 scuba tank and the adapter I could fill my 48cu 3000psi tank. A: Yes you can, and it's very cheap to fill the big tank. It's probably about $6 to fill the large tank, whereas a normal paintball compressed air tank will cost $3-$5 per fill. You can get many, many fills off of the large scuba tank. In fact, I'm thinking of getting one myself. Q: How does a Tippman Carbine-68 do compared to a MiniMag? A: First off, instead of getting a MiniMag, get an AutoMag 68 with Powerfeed (not classic feed!). If you get the powerfeed model, there is almost no difference whatsoever from the MiniMag, whatever ANYONE tells you, other than the absence of a vertical adapter. And, it's about $100 cheaper! Anyway, let's compare the Carbine and the Mag. Unless you get a Flatline barrel, the Mag will shoot farther. The Flatline is no good for speedball though; if you shoot the gun with Flatline sideways, the paintball will hook sharply in mid-flight. Mags are more accurate than Carbines, and have a MUCH faster firing rate. Accuracy isn't bad with the Carbine, but the firing rate is slow because of the long, heavy trigger pull. The Mag is deadly accurate because of its blow-forward enclosed system, and has a very short, light trigger pull that makes it insanely fast. However, Mags are VERY tempermental on CO2. You will never have a problem with a Mag that has a powerfeed, motorized hopper, and compressed air, but otherwise you might have some trouble unless you spend some extra money on the things described below. If you run CO2, you MUST have an expansion chamber, and you should probably run a COILED hose remote to a 4+1 or 6+1 pack. Make sure it's a coiled hose, and NOT the steel braided. Coiled hoses are MUCH better at keeping CO2 out of your gun. Please note that you have to have a vertical adapter to have an expansion chamber on your gun (like the MiniMag), but it's easy to install, and much cheaper than what they charge you to put it on the MiniMag. If you run Compressed Air, you don't have to worry about all of that stuff. Your gun won't freeze up with compressed air. You can connect the tank any way you like into the gun. Personally, I run a remote from my compressed air tank in my 4+1 straight into my regulator. It makes my gun a pistol. You could also connect it straight onto the gun, bottomline or vertical, or use a drop-forward. There's lots of ways you can do it. Fortunately, the Carbine will almost never freeze up on CO2. You don't need compressed air, and you probably don't even need an expansion chamber. One more thing about the Carbine. It has a major flaw, making it the only Tippman gun I won't buy. It has a special locking mechanism that holds the hopper onto the gun. If this piece breaks (which it often does), then your hopper will go flying off of your gun. You can't fix the piece once it breaks. If you end up buying a Tippman, DONT BUY A CARBINE. Instead, buy a Model 98 Custom, a Pro-Carbine, or a Pro-Lite. None of them have the hopper problem. Also, the Model 98 Custom is cheaper than the Carbine, and most people think it's better. It's definitely more customizable; you can put an electronic trigger, expansion chambers, and new innards into it. If you get a Model 98, make sure it's a Model 98 Custom. It's the same price, and it's easier to add aftermarket parts to it. So to review... DONT BUY A CARBINE, but other Tippmans are ok. Mags are superior guns, but only if you put a lot of stuff on them, or buy compressed air. So, get the Tippman if you want a decent gun at a decent price, and if you have deep pockets, get the superior Automag 68 with Powerfeed, and all that other stuff. Q: Hey guys, any ideas on how to hand make a ghillie suit? Also, any good ideas on a chest protector? A: If you don't mind spending the money, you can always buy a chest protector for about $30 from 888paintball.com - check out this link. Here ya go, protection galore. http://www.888paintball.com/Class.asp? ProductLine=++++SAFETY&Class=+++++++++++++++CHEST+PROTECTOR On a side note for all you guys, I think chest protectors aren't worth it; if you're a guy, the chest/back is probably about the least painful unprotected spot to get hit. Q: What barrels can i get for my friend that will fit on a Tippmann Prolite ? A: Most barrels on the market will fit a Pro-Lite. Boomsticks are probably the best, but also the most expensive. Just go to www.888paintball.com or www.thepaintballstore.com to check out what they have. Q: I heard that a tippman was so well build that you could take a garden hose and spray it down to clean. Is this true? A: Just take out the valve and other internals, and it's just an aluminum tube. For all you Mag users out there, you can do a similar cleaning job to your guns. Just pressurize the gun (screw in the tank) and dunk it in a bucket of water. Because of its design, the water will wash out your gun, but won't mess it up. The video that comes with your Automag actually endorses doing this. Q: I have spent a lot of time and money on upgrades for my Automag; things like an expansion chamber, extention, drop-forward and so on. I am thinking of getting a nitro tank. Do you have any suggestions? Also, does a hurricane valve make that much a difference in how your gun performs? A: I have a hurricane valve on my MiniMag, and it works nice for me. I've never had any problems with it. My Automag didn't have a hurricane valve, and I had a lot of problems with dropoff and stuff like that. The hurricane valve also supposedly recharges the trigger a lot quicker, so you can use an automatic trigger frame. I've heard it's basically a poor man's Retro Valve, like they have in the Automag RT. Now on to Nitro. Personally, I would suggest a compressed air tank; they perform about the same, and cost a lot less than Nitro.I have 2 48 ci steel tanks by Pure Energy. They're nice, but I only get 300 or 400 shots from each tank, and each tank is heavier than a fiber 68 ci tank, because mine are steel.The nice thing about the tanks is the size, especially with the drop-forward. It makes your gun the perfect size. If I had to choose again, I might go for a fiber 68 ci tank. They're nice and light, and the gun seems sooooo light with the dropforward with the fiber tank. However, I'm pretty happy how I have my gun right now. I have a coiled remote, a 4+1, a vertical foregrip, a bottomline, and an adjustable gas thru stock. I can combine any of these any way I want to adapt to any style of play. Right now for speedball, I have my tank in the 4+1 which runs up the remote, which is attached DIRECTLY into the regulator, no bottomline, no gas thru stock, and no vertical foregrip. This makes my gun a pistol. So quick, so nice! If I want to play in the woods, the foregrip and gas thru stock comes on. If I don't want anything on my back, the remote and gas thru stock come off, and my tank goes into the bottomline.I suggest you get those things I talked about up there. You will be able to play any style you want. Also, get a metal trigger frame. A new frame actually gives you a new trigger pull if you buy it with the trigger. Very nice. Of course, get a new barrel if you don't have one. I suggest the Smart Parts Perfect Bore or Boss Progressive barrel, it's only $50 and nice and quiet and SO accurate.A powerfeed body is very important, you can fire faster, and you won't bust nearly as many paintballs. If you have a Classic feed body, upgrade that puppy. Equally important is a motorized loader, for the exact same reasons. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A MOTORIZED LOADER! Those are some of the better upgrades in my opinion. Q: I want to know what the most accurate barrel for my tippman 98. Also, what's the best barrel for the price? A: The Flatline is good if you're not playing speedball. If you tilt the gun, it flies with a big hook (not good). However, if you're in the woods, the extra distance is a big advantage. It can add upwards of 50 feet to your distance, and no dropoff. It's about $100. Another high-end barrel is the Dye BoomStick. It's really quiet, and really accurate. It's also really expensive, about $100. I'm not sure if they make these for Model 98s, but if they do, I suggest a ceramic barrel (J&J or 32 Degrees), or the Smart Parts Perfect Bore / Boss Progressive. All of those are excellent barrels, and they're only about $50. Q: Which is a better barrel, the Dye BoomStick, or the Smart Parts All-American? A: I'd have to rank the Dye BoomStick over the Smart Parts All-american. The BoomStick is a bit more quiet, and the All-American has more dropoff. Q: I was playing today and this kid on my team had a Tribal Paintball gun and i got realy interested in it. Can anyone give me any information about it. Like how good they are compaired to my Tippmann 68 Carbine with 16' Sniper barrel compaired also to an Automag with stock parts. And anythign else that anyone may know about them like perfomance on speed and Accuracy. A: Tribals are supposed to be all-around excellent. They are fully-automatic electronic guns. They cost about $600.I've heard some problems with them when they first get shipped to you; things like internals getting stuck, so the gun doesn't fire right. However, the company fixes this for you if it's not working properly. The gun is made of a durable, lightweight material. It makes the gun nice and light. The trigger is fast, and the gun is accurate. It's probably more accurate than an AutoMag with stock parts, and certainly more accurate than any Tippman. However, and AutoMag with aftermarket parts (new barrel, new valve) is probably more accurate than the Tribal. The real advantage to the Tribal is that it is designed to be a low-cost Shocker that is Tournament Legal. Most tournaments ban many types of Shockers, while the Tribals are mostly legal. Also, the Tribal is priced lower than the majority of fully automatic markers. Q: I am now trying to determine if I should get a MiniMag or a Tribal. I can get them both around $400 so prices are the same, but how does their performance compare? Personally I'd take the MiniMag (how'd you guess?). Unless you can afford using paint like your lungs use air, you probably won't be able to afford paintballs for the Tribal. Also the MiniMag is more accurate (with a new barrel, but that's only $50 or so) than the Tribal will ever be. It's also infinitely more durable, and tons more upgradeable. The Tribal is bound to break down every now and then, but the MiniMag will keep on truckin'. Other than full-auto, the only real advantage the Tribal has is that it is very light, while the mag is on the heavy side.Unless you're really serious about having full-auto capability, I'd take the MiniMag. Anyway, players who use full-auto guns tend to be low on skill, and high on volume. You'll be much more leet using a Mag. Trust me. If you want a MiniMag for cheap, check out www.thepaintballstore.com. They also have good deals on powerfeed Automags, which might actually save you some more money. Oh, and if you end up getting the Tribal, make sure you get the 2.2 version. The older guns really have a few problems. Q: Does anybody know where you can get the new JT nVader mask for under 20 bucks? A: When you get a mask, make sure you get a Thermal mask or Thermal lens, and not a Single or Anti-Fog lens. Many times, Anti-Fog means it just has an insert, which doesn't work as well as a Thermal mask. This is why I can't recommend the NVader over these other two masks. These two are excellent masks at excellent prices. At www.thepaintballstore.com you can get the JT X-Fire Thermal mask for $30. At www.888paintball.com you can get the Scott Bad Boy Thermal mask for $35. If you decide to stick with the NVader, it's available at www.shop4paintball.com and www.888paintball.com for $25 Q: I am a new player. Which gun should I buy? A: In the last couple of years, many great paintball guns have popped up for newbies. I'll tell you which ones are the best. First off, get a semi-auto unless all of your friends are using pumps. Most players these days have semi-autos, and you'll get creamed if you use a pump against them. In my opinion, the Tippman Custom 98 is the best gun for you. You can get it for about $125 online. It is durable, accurate, and very upgradeable. The only downside to the gun is that it takes a little while to take apart. Also, the barrel that comes with it is not very accurate, but you can easily buy a better one! If you don't have enough money for the Tippman, I'd get a Spyder. The Spyder Compact 2000 sells for around $90. It's not quite as good as the Tippman, but it's still a very good gun. Buy from an online store; you'll find your best prices there. I suggest www.shop4paintball.com, www.paintballgeeks.com, and www.thepaintballstore.com. They all have very good prices. If you get one of those guns, make sure you get a 20 ounce CO2 tank. You can get one from www.shop4paintball.com. If you're REALLY into paintball, and you have a lot of money, get an AutoCocker and a 12 volt Revolution hopper. You'll be really happy with that gun. They cost $325 at www.paintballgeeks.com, and that's probably the best price you'll find. I suggest a compressed air tank with this gun. Q: Which mask should I buy? A: First off, do NOT buy any mask made by Brass Eagle. The lenses have been known to break when they get hit by paintballs, blinding the people wearing them. I'd get a mask made by JT or Scott. They have been in the business for a long time, and they make great, dependable masks. I'd suggest a Thermal mask. Thermal masks won't fog up on you. Don't buy a mask that says "Anti-Fog," it will still fog up on you. Only a Thermal mask will stop the fog. Trust me, this is very important. For a cheap thermal mask, I'd get the Scott Bad Boy Thermal, or the JT X-Fire Thermal. They're both around $35. For upper end masks, most people choose JT Spectras, the JT Proteus, or other variations of the Spectra, like the Flex-7 or IZE. Q: Which barrel should I buy? A: If you want a good barrel for $50, get the Dye Xcel, or the Lapco BigShot, or any of the CP (Custom Products) barrels. If you want to spend more, you can get a Smart Parts All-American ($80) or the Dye BoomStick ($110). If you want a tournament-level barrel system that you can switch the bore size in, get the Smart Parts Freak system. It's about $200 for the full set, and it's like having a barrel for every situation. Q: I am a new player and I just bought a phantom. What is speedball, and what are its rules? A: Nice gun, I've always wanted to try a Phantom. Anyway, speedball is usually held on a small-scale field that is nothing but a grassy field with wooden bunkers set up. A bunker is basically a large slab of wood (or another material) that is free-standing, or leaned against something like a tree. Q: I was wondering if you could rig a scuba tank to fill your smaller tanks to use in your guns. Has this been done?Is it possible? A: You could use scuba tanks to fill Compressed Air tanks, but you are probably using CO2 tanks. I'm not sure what type of tank they use for filling CO2; ask someone at a scuba shop or paintball store. Anyway, if you WERE going to use scuba tanks to fill Compressed Air tanks, you would have to have 3 scuba tanks; paintball Comp.Air tanks are filled in 3 stages from a different tank in each stage.
Q: Which should I get; an AutoMag, or an AutoCocker? A: Ooooh, the old Cocker vs. Mag debate. Mags used to be better than Cockers, because cockers used to break down all the time. However, the 2000 and 2001 AutoCockers are excellent, and are just as durable as Mags. All of the problems have been fixed, and in my opinion, AutoCockers are BETTER than AutoMags. I'm not being biased when I say this, either - I have owned Mags for years. Cockers are truly better than they used to be, while Mags have remained the same. First off, Mags do not run well on CO2 at all, unless you use an expansion chamber with an anti-syphon tank. Cockers, on the other hand, work much better on CO2. I recommend that you use an anti-syphon tank with a Cocker, but you don't HAVE to have it, and you certainly don't need an expansion chamber. Next, Cockers are more accurate than Mags. Mags are very accurate, but they shoot in more of an "arc," while Cockers shoot straighter. Also, the Cocker comes with a stock barrel that is very accurate. Mags usually don't come with barrels, and when they do, they aren't too great. You won't chop nearly as much paint with an AutoCocker. Mags have the reputation for being "paint blenders," and believe me, sometimes they are. Cockers almost never break paint, unless their timing is off. People say, "Cockers are way too complex!" Actually, they're much more simple than you might think. They're actually as easy to field strip as a Mag, and you don't ever have to mess with the complex parts. Also, other than a bottomline, cockers come ready to play straight out of the box. Mags usually don't come with anything; no barrel, no vertical reg, nothing. Although a 68 Classic AutoMag comes a little cheaper than an AutoCocker, you'll have to spend a lot of money on the Mag to get it working. Cockers are more customizable, too. You can add more parts, and you can even do visual stuff like milling to make it look nice. Cockers have Mags beat in price, too. A 68 Classic Mag costs about $250, but then you have to buy a barrel (at least $50), a bottomline ($15), and expansion chamber setup ($50). That comes out to about $365, and that's lowballing. You'll need more stuff to keep it from chopping lots of paint. You could end up spending over $500 to make it work well. A Cocker costs $325 at www.paintballgeeks.com. All you need is the bottomline adapter ($15). The stock barrel is actually very good, and you don't need an expansion chamber. You don't need to upgrade anything on the gun. It's much cheaper than a Mag. I recommend that you use a 12 volt hopper with both of these guns, to prevent chops. Q: Does anyone have some plans/pics of a realistic looking grenade launcher?? Do you guys have ideas on how to make 'em work like a Potato Gun??? (if you don't know how a Potato Gun works....look it up)
A: Here's a real beauty. How awesome does this look??? Q: I was thinking of getting a KAPP cradle, what else would I need to mount my screw in Crossfire 68ci tank? A: You'd need a screw-in adapter, which is about another $20. For screw-in tanks, I suggest the Psycho Ballistics Pro Style Drop-Forward. It's not adjustable, but it's very good, and it costs only $30. Q: I would like to know what is best for me, I am a person that has a lot of shoot outs, we go out in the orchards and sage brush. We do more ambushing then sniper shooting, right know I have a spyder, I like it very well but I know there is better out there, just wondering what would be good at reasonable price. A: Well, there's always the Tippman Custom 98. They're a little different than the Spyders in some ways, but in my opinion, they basically perform at about the same level as a Spyder TL. If you really want to have a nice gun, I'd get an AutoCocker. Make sure you use a 12 volt Revolution hopper with it. I also suggest a compressed air tank. Q: 1- what is a drop forward and what does it do? A: The Drop-Forward is a slanted piece of metal that replaces your bottomline. It takes your tank down and forward a bit, making the gun's balance better (which makes it feel lighter) and makes the gun shorter and more compact. Make sure you have your ASA air adapter, or you might have to order one with the drop forward, depending on which drop forward you get. The air adapter is the thingy on your bottomline where the tank screws into the gun. To find a sponsor, just go to your local paintball stores and ask them about sponsorship. But first, you have to be on a team, of course. I seriously doubt anyone would sponsor a single person. Q: Which is better: a spyder, spyder compact, tippman 98 or raptor? A: Which spyder do you mean when you say "spyder?" If you're looking for a good Spyder, go with the Shutter, the Spyder TL or the TL+. The Spyder Compact 2000 is a better deal than just about every Spyder model until you get to the TL price range. If you get a Compact, you MUST get an expansion chamber and a new barrel to prevent ball breaks. The Custom 98 is better than most spyders, but the TL is probably almost as good as the Custom 98. The Custom 98 is more upgradeable and more durable, but harder to strip down. The raptor is no good. It sucks. Spyders and Tippmans are both great guns, shoot both and decide which one suits your style of play better. I suggest either a Tippman Custom 98 or a Spyder TL+ or Shutter. Q: Why is compressed air so much? My co2 only cost $30, but it is the same size... is there any performance difference? A: Compressed air is much better in many ways. 2. Compressed air makes you more accurate. 5. Your gun will NEVER EVER freeze up on compressed air, but it will on CO2. Q: My spyder compact 2000 is leaking out the sides of the gun and it won't stop while the tank is in. The tank is fine. A: 1. Cock your spyder before you screw in the tank. Q: A friend of mind took the vertical adapter off his gun and took all the insides out (valve spring, cupseal guide, cup seal, valve pin and the valve body). When he put it back together it leaked air. The cup seal and the o-rings are in perfect condition. I was wondering if anyone might know what could be wrong. A: He needs to re-teflon the screws he took out where air is coming through. This is something you should do on a fairly regular basis, it conserves CO2 and eliminates leaks. Wherever you unscrew something, wrap teflon tape on the threads on the male piece. Wrap it around a couple times so you form a thick, tight seal on the part that screws in. Without teflon tape, CO2 is free to leak out. I re-teflon my MiniMag all the time; it really saves air, and it prevents problems from popping up. Q: I am looking to buy a new gun. I am a veteran paintball player and do not have that much money. I can't spend any more than $200 max, can you give me some ideas about some good guns in my price range? A: I suggest an upgraded Tippman Custom 98. They are very upgradeable, and I think they are the best guns for under $300. They cost $125. I'd put an expansion chamber and a new barrel on it. Here's a price list of good guns for you: If I were you, I'd save up $125 more and buy a new AutoCocker. They're incredible. They'll shoot much better than any other gun for under $600. The Cocker is $325 at www.paintballgeeks.com Q: How do you take the remote co2 cord off the co2 tank with out First, unscrew the valve on your remote, cutting off the air supply. Then, fire out all the excess CO2 left in the gun. After that, SLOWLY unscrew the CO2 tank. This will save you air and keep your o-rings working. Q: Which aftermarket bolt should I get for my Spyder? A: A new bolt will not improve a Spyder very much. I suggest you stick with the stock bolt. Q: Do you have any tips on how to maintain my paintball gun? A: This may seem like a little thing, but it will make the biggest difference in the world. Believe me. Right after you buy a paintball gun, ESPECIALLY A SPYDER, OIL IT Q: Can compressed air be stored in a CO2 bottle for play? A: NO!!! DONT USE A CO2 TANK FOR COMPRESSED AIR. Even if you found some way to fill to a CO2 tank with compressed air, it would be very dangerous. CO2 tanks hold about 800 PSI, while compressed air tanks hold 3000 or 4500 PSI. It is harder to make a stronger tank; that's one reason why the compressed air tanks are so expensive. Q: I have a tippmann Model 98 with a flatline barrel. I built a silencer and it didn't work. Then I read somewhere that silencers don't work on open bolt paintball guns. Is this true and if so is there a way to build one for open bolts? I've seen the side and rear cocking systems for the 98 and was wondering if they help keep sound down? A: Yes. I have a friend who made a Silencer for his science project. It worked very well. He took a 12 ounce ice tea can, a hole in the closed side, and drilled holes in the sides. He took a small metal tube and drilled holes in the side of that, too. He put the smaller tube inside of the can. He then stuffed tightly-packed polyester pillow stuffing in between the cans. He duct-taped the whole thing to keep it together, and put it onto his barrel. One thing you'll see is that you won't notice much difference with the silencer if you're the person behind the trigger, but if you're downfield from the gun, it will be MUCH more quiet. On a side note, here's a post by a guy named "Advisor": "(Quote) Be advised that the BATF has taken the position for many years Q: I really like the TL+, it works great and hardly ever breaks a ball (when it's been lubed). Though I would really like to get some better accuracy and less noise out of the gun. I don't have a big budget right now, and barrels seem to be more expensive. Bolts? I don't know which bolts will do the job for me and at a fair price. So which one should I upgrade first, and what kind would be good for what I'm asking for? A: A new bolt won't make that much difference, but a new barrel will make you much more accurate. I'd get the barrel first. Many of my friends who have Spyders like the Dye XCel barrel. Other good choices are the Lapco BigShot, all of the CP (Custom Products) barrels, and the Smart Parts Boss Progressive. All of these barrels are around $50. If you want a really good expensive barrel, the Smart Parts All-American ($80) is a good choice. Q: Is Marballizer paint any good? i saw some on the net for a good price but didn't want to buy it because it seemed almost too good of a price. If it is not what is a good paint for a good price? A: Marballizer is a paint made by RP Scherer. It's very good paint, depending on your gun. If it's below about $58, it's a very good price. RP Premium is also very good, and it costs about $45 online. Make sure you don't get killed with the shipping costs. Many companies advertise paint for impossibly cheap prices, and then jack up the shipping and handling costs to make up for it. Q: I'm looking for a new gun. I want to get a spyder one. Everywhere I see one it's too much. I'm looking for a site where I can get a spyder one cheap? Does anyone know? A: The Spyder One is not being made anymore. I would suggest buying a different gun. If you want a spyder, go for something in the TL series. The Spyder TL and the TL+ are both excellent guns; the TL+ is about $15 more expensive. It differs from the regular TL Q: I want to get an AutoMag. What do I need for it? The Automag 68 Classic was my first gun. I made a few mistakes, which you can avoid by reading this. I would suggest that you get compressed air. Mags are quite fiesty on CO2. They freeze up quickly and start burping and splitting paint every shot. Compressed air also makes your velocity more consistent, giving you more accuracy. A new metal trigger frame. It's more sturdy, and you can put a new trigger in there, too. I suggest the Dye double trigger frame. Q: Is the new electronic grip for the spyder any good for the Shutter? A: Yes, it will work. Here's a quote from www.thepaintballstore.com They also make electronic frames for Mags and Piranhas now. I suggest the Hyperframe. I've heard rumors of Boo-Yah going out of business. Anyways, most people agree that the Hyperframe is better.
Q: I am getting the LCD grip frame for my spyder. I was wondering what I would need to feed the balls fast enough.
A: A VERY fast hopper. Like a 12 volt revolution, or a Halo. You definitely don't want to pinch pennies on this; if you do, you'll never get a paintball out of the barrel before it breaks. By the way, don't get the 18 volt revolution; it's no faster than the 12, and the 18s can burn out sometimes. Q: With my new frame whenever I shoot fast the pressures drops off so much there is not enough to re-cock my gun. What should I do? A: You have to have compressed air or nitro to solve your problem. CO2 will cause problems like the kind you've described, among others. Also, adjust the pressure in your gun until it works properly with the compressed air. You can get compressed air tanks pretty cheap; the steel ones are about $70 for 48 ci tanks, and about $130 for 68 ci tanks. Q: I was wondering if I buy 1 scuba tank and the adapter I could fill my 48cu 3000psi tank. A: Yes you can, and it's very cheap to fill the big tank. It's probably about $6 to fill the large tank, whereas a normal paintball compressed air tank will cost $3-$5 per fill. You can get many fills off of the large scuba tank. In fact, I'm thinking of getting one myself. Q: How does a Tippman Carbine-68 do compared to a MiniMag? A: First off, instead of getting a MiniMag, get an AutoMag 68 with Powerfeed (not classic feed!). If you get the powerfeed model, there is almost no difference whatsoever from the MiniMag, whatever ANYONE tells you, other than the absence of a vertical adapter. And, it's about $100 cheaper! So to review... Mags are superior guns, but only if you put a lot of stuff on them, or buy compressed air. Personally, I'd get an AutoCocker. It works better than a Mag, and costs less in the end. Q: Hey guys, any ideas on how to hand make a ghillie suit? Also, any good ideas on a chest protector?
A: If you don't mind spending the money, you can always buy a chest protector for about $30 from 888paintball.com - check out this link. On a side note for all you guys, I think chest protectors aren't worth it; if you're a guy, the chest/back is probably about the least painful unprotected spot to get hit. Q: What barrels can i get for my friend that will fit on a Tippmann A: Most barrels on the market will fit a Pro-Lite. All-Americans and Boomsticks are probably the best, but also the most expensive. Just go to www.shop4paintball.com or www.thepaintballstore.com to check out what they have. Q: I heard that a tippman was so well build that you could take a garden hose and spray it down to clean. Is this true? A: Just take out the valve and other internals, and it's just an aluminum tube. For all you Mag users out there, you can do a similar cleaning job to your guns. Just pressurize the gun (screw in the tank) and dunk it in a bucket of water. Because of its design, the water will wash out your gun, but won't mess it up. The video that comes with your Automag actually endorses doing this. Q: I have spent a lot of time and money on upgrades for my Automag; things like an expansion chamber, extention, drop-forward and so on. I am thinking of getting a nitro tank. Do you have any suggestions? Also, does a hurricane valve make that much a difference in how A: I have a hurricane valve on my MiniMag, and it works nice for me. I've never had any problems with it. My Automag didn't have a hurricane valve, and I had a lot of problems with dropoff and stuff like that. The hurricane valve also supposedly recharges the trigger a lot quicker, so you can use an automatic trigger frame. I've heard it's basically a poor man's Retro Valve, like they have in the Automag RT. Q: I want to know what the most accurate barrel for my tippman 98. Also, what's the best barrel for the price? A: The Flatline is good if you're not playing speedball. If you tilt the gun, it flies with a big hook (not good). However, if you're in the woods, the extra distance is a big advantage. It can add upwards of 50 feet to your distance, and no dropoff. It's about $100. Q: Which is a better barrel, the Dye BoomStick, or the Smart Parts All-American? A: I'd have to rank the Dye BoomStick over the Smart Parts All-american. The BoomStick is a bit more quiet, and the All-American has more dropoff. Q: I was playing today and this kid on my team had a Tribal Paintball gun and i got really interested in it. Can you give me any information about it? A: I would not get a Tribal. The company who makes them went out of business. I believe BBT might be picking them up again, but unless you're sure of this, I'd stay away from them. It's too bad; Tribals were great guns. They are fully-automatic electronic guns. They cost about $450. The trigger is fast, and the gun is accurate. If you end up getting a Tribal, make sure it's a 2.0 or later version. The earlier ones had some problems. Q: My AutoMag is chopping paint. What can I do? A: The first thing you should check is your ball detent. It's a little wire nubbin that sticks down inside your barrel. Take out your barrel. Look down it. See the little wire thing sticking down into it? Take your finger, and touch the end of it. If it seems rounded, and not sharp, then it's fine. If you notice a sharp point, then your ball detent is broken. Sometimes, the wire detent will snap, making a sharp, jagged spike that basically rips apart every paintball that comes through it. I've had to replace 2 of mine. Fortunately, they're only about a buck apiece. You can also get them in a parts kit. If that's not the problem, get a new hopper! A 12 volt Revolution will make a world of difference. I got mine from www.thepaintballstore.com delivered for $55 total. This will help stop the chops where the paint gets blasted up towards your hopper. If you're STILL busting paint, then you might want to get a new bolt. I suggest any bolt that has a "foamie" on it. The foamie is like a little sponge on the end of the bolt that cushions the paintball when the bolt hits it. It helps prevent busts from your bolt. ANS and 32 Degrees both make Foamie bolts. If you're busting paint down the barrel, and not at the bolt, then you might want a new barrel. You can get a nice barrel for $50, actually. The Dye Xcel, the CP (Custom Products) barrels, and the Lapco BigShot are all great barrels for a good price. If you want to spend more, you could get the All-American. And, if all else fails, buy a Powerfeed body. If you have a Classic Feed, you could be getting what's called "blowback", which means that the air from the gun actually pushes the balls up into the hopper, causing them to drop late, meaning you'll chop paint. A powerfeed body eliminates blowback. Keep in mind that any Mag will chop some paint. They're not very gentle guns. I'd recommend you use a thick-shelled paint, like RPS Premium or Marballizer Advantage. Q: My AutoCocker is chopping paint. What can I do? A: Cockers generally chop much less paint than Mags. If you use the right equipment, you should almost never get chops. The first thing you need to do is get a 12 volt Revolution. That will dramatically decrease chops. If you're still consistently chopping paint, maybe you need your cocker timed. "Timing" refers to how all the AutoCocker's parts work together in unison. If one part is out of sync, it can throw the whole system out of whack, causing ball chops. DO NOT attempt to time a Cocker by yourself; you are more likely to mess it up even more if you're not a professional. Take it into a local paintball shop and get it fixed, or call up WGP, or whoever makes your cocker, and ask if they can fix it for you. |
