Now Playing: The New Pornographers--"The Spirit of Giving"
They're sprouting all over the place, and it has to stop.
In a time when even history starts to seem a little "samey" to me (probably a result of overconsumption), I'm starting to find comfort in the voluminous literature on world cuisine--cookbooks, food histories, and even plant and animal biology and chemistry (only Dawkins and Gould so far, but there'll be more). It all comes at a point where I'm starting to better figure my new career path. Cuisine in general--I may have expressed this before--is one of the most important (if not the most important) subjects for human study, and yet it gets taken for granted, even in such a relatively well-educated age in terms of human consumption. I confess my own culpability in the situation, to be sure. Though I work with food for a living (and increasingly, I think, as a vocation), it's still hard for me not to roll my eyes when I hear some couple that make probably five times what I do in a year wax rhapsodic over a razor-thin slice of jamon serrano that might have come from the kind of eternally secluded Spanish village that figured in Tombs of the Blind Dead or The Vampires' Night Orgy. One of my favorite humorists, Michael J. Nelson, in Mind Over Matters, wrote a hilariously derisive essay on food snobs ("finally... we must do something about Tuscany") that recommended their force-feeding with "those unnaturally red Dolly Madison Zingers" and I found it impossible not to laugh and sympathize. It's also hard for someone living well below the American median income to appreciate a way of life that's marketed, either explicitly or implicitly, to the upper middle class. The kind of "revolution" that a lot of "foodies" expect as a result of their educational efforts will never get off the ground in this country (and indeed others) unless some way is found to make it affordable for an average citizen increasingly squeezed by a grotesquely unequal distribution of income and resources. That I work (and often live) in an environment where this lifestyle is largely celebrated only complicates matters.
Felipe Fernandez-Armesto, Near A Thousand Tables: A History of Food (2002): Fernandez-Armesto has long been one of my favorite historians both for the fluency and erudition of his writing and for his unnerving knack of focusing on subjects of especial interest to myself: childhood fascinations (the history of world, as opposed to European, exploration in Pathfinders, which I still have to read but which looks like a beaut), overriding adult concerns (the comparative history of world peoples, environments and cultures in Millennium and Civilizations, and even atavistic interests due to family ancestry (Before Columbus, his early study of the medieval Spanish conquest of the Canary Islands). Now, it seems, he's turned his powers on the history of food. A self-confessed food snob, Fernandez-Armesto manages at least to point the way towards a possible history of food, though, even with all his talent, Near A Thousand Tables still seems unsatisfying. I think part of the problem may be the sheer enormity of the task. The work tracks the history of food thematically, using social and echnological developments such as the "Neolithic Revolution" and the Columbian contact with the Americas as springboards for well-disciplined ruminations on the nature of food and eating. Much of it builds on his earlier work in Millennium and Civilizations (indeed, Near A Thousand Tables started out as an over-abundance of notes on the multifarious subjects of study with which he had to contend--in itself highlighting the subject's importance). Though interesting and informative as always (and with a delightful lack of the kind of woolly-headed, soi-disant "naturalism" sadly endemic to food writing), for me it seemed a little too wide-ranigng, without enough definite information or discrete detail to quite satisfy me. That said, though, the field is probably in its relative infancy, and Near A Thousand Tables at least marks an important step.
Michael Symons, A History of Cooks and Cooking (1998): Indeed, I wonder if Fernandez-Armesto decided to write his history as a result of dissatisfaction with Symons' own, which has an eminently admirable object but mostly fails, I think, to achieve it. An Australian historian and food writer, Symons brings a refreshingly local perspective to his work (using a Sydney restaurant as his starting point and making frequent reference to Australian achievements in cuisine) but can't seem to decide whether his study is an actual history or one of those airy, maudlin cleebrations of food. Whereas Fernandez-Armesto at least has a definite and recognizable structure, Symons flails all over the place in an overly "philosophical" attempt to find some meaning in the most important of human activities. He does a good turn by focusing on the cook's place in the great chain, and much of the first half explores, however messily, what cooks are and what they do (do bakers qualify, for example?)*. Unfortunately, the frequent philosophical asides and recurring preciousness make A History an often irritating experience. Fortunately, the second half of the book is much better as it lays down an actual history, particularly good on the transition to civilization in which specialized cooking, he contends, played an important role, particularly in the development of Sumerian temple-cities. So it's worth reading in the end, but if you're looking for a comprehensive history of cooking and cuisine, I'd look elsewhere (not that I've found one yet).
*Shit, yeah.
Updated: 5 June 2009 12:42 PM EDT
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