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MIDAS DAIRY GOATS


GOAT HEALTH

Once you have purchased your first goat/goats one of the first things to think about is what to do if your goat is not well. It is important to have found a compassionate vet who is interested in goats before illness strikes. A copy of a goat health book will become invaluable. Pat Coleby's Natural Goat Care is excellent. The average life span for a doe is 8 years and a buck is 6 years, of course, many goats are not average at all and live lives twice that long

A wonderful book of goat diseases is Max Merrall's A - Z of goat diseases which is also online.

If you know of vet who specialise in goat care in New Zealand then please email me and I can add them to this page

Basics

Rectal Temperature 102.5 - 104 degrees fahrenheit
Pulse Rate 70 - 80 beats per minutes
Respiration 15 to 30 per minute
Oestrus Cycle 17 to 23 days
Gestation 145 to 155 days

Housing

Shelter is one of the first considerations when contemplating the purchase of a doe. She cannot be expected to produce her best when she has to contend with Nature's elements. Without shelter and good food, it means she has to utilise more of what she eats to keep her warm. Housing does not present a problem, as long as it is rain and draught-proof, as the simplest of shelters is much appreciated in cold, wet weather. Shelter ranging from an oversized box to the most elaborate of barns can be within the scope of everyone. It is all a matter of taste, economy and/or pride. When the doe or buck is tethered, and he or she has to be shifted frequently, a large box or a discarded water tank is the ideal shelter, as it is easily moved from place to place. Do not forget to place a layer of hay on the bottom of the box to keep her warm or dry. If using an old tank it is much better to make a slatted platform for sleeping on, as any moisture tends to run to the bottom and remain there. Place a block or log either side to prevent the tank from rolling. Where the building of a barn is comtemplated, there are one or two points to remember. Ease of cleaning out is of main importance. There is nothing more tiring than having to walk and manoeuvre unnecessarily. Access to feeding racks when feeding out hay or greens is another point to bear in mind too. It is much easier to feed without having to go into the shed each time, especially when there are several does. Flooring can be several kinds; concrete, wood, asphalt or earth. But whichever method is used, litter in some form must be provided. Sprinkling the floor with lime after each cleaning out will keep the shed smelling clean and sweet, and will discourage flies from breeding in the litter. Where the area of shedding is available slatted platforms, or boxes with slatted tops, can be used for sleeping. In this way the droppings can be collected and used for the garden. We have found fence battens are a convenient size for making platforms. A hayrack can be made from a wooden frame covered with large mesh netting, and hung on the wall within easy reach of the goats. Plastic buckets make ideal containers for grain feed and water, as they are easily kept clean. Salt licks are best placed in a wooden container because of the corrosive nature of the salt
reprinted from Household Dairy Goats for Beginners by Joyce Collins

Horns

To tell whether a kid has horns or not, feel the raised bumps between the ears on the top of the head. If they are pointed the kid will be horned or check for whorls of hair, this indicates horns. If in doubt leave the kid for a few days and investigate again. Make sure buck kids are done less than four days old otherwise there can be cases of scurs

Step 1: Clip as much of the hair as you can from the top of the kid's head. Burning hair smells terrible and it is going to be burnt so save time and clip it first

Step 2: Locate the horn buds. Skin will be tight over the site. Apply the iron to the horn bud and cut out a circle. Count the seconds; hold for 10 seconds for average hot iron. To keep the kid immobile during this operation, clamp the kid's neck between your knees, or use a dehorning box. It will help if someone can hold the legs especially if its a big kid. Be careful not to choke the kid. If you have to put your hand over its nose to hold it still remember to give him a breathing spell once in a while

Step 3: If the horn buds are quite well grown (over 1/4 inch tall) they may be removed now quickly with a sharp knife, then the area cauterized with the iron. Rotate the iron to use the hottest spot. The whole circular area should be copper coloured

Step 4: Apply ice immediately to quickly cool the head. A cuddle and a drink of milk should restore the kid to its normal self. Apply charcoal powder and give liquid pamol if necessary

Poisoning

Rhododendron Poisoning

Irene's recipe
Goatlings and adult goats
15mls Renco (junket rennet - can be purchased from supermarket)
15mls Mylanta (milk of magnesia - also usually at the supermarket or chemist)
5mls brandy (Sherry would do)

Kids over 4 months
10mls Renco
10mls Mylanta
5mls brandy

Kids under 4 months
5mls Renco
5mls Mylanta
2mls brandy

Mix all together and give a ml or two at a time over 15 minutes
This recipe is particularly good as the quantities are small so administering is easier

Lorraine's recipe
1/4 cup cooking oil
1/2 cup really strong cold tea - 6 teabags (remoeved) would make a good strong cup (not herbal, real English tea)
1 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp baking soda

Mix all together and drench the goat with it all

This works by the oil putting a lining on the stomach preventing more poison from going into the system, tea is the antidote, and ginger relieves pain, baking soda helps bring up the gas

This recipe is excellent because all the ingredients are in the kitchen easy to find

It is important to keep the goat warm, but not in the sun, and out of the wind. Have a bucket of fresh warm water available for the animals to drink and each time it gets fouled by vomit (which might have been stuck to the face hair) empty and refill it, otherwise the goat will just be drinking up more poison. A goat which is vomiting all over the place is getting rid of the toxins much more efficiently than one which is not, so vomiting is good

Once the goat is feeling better, offer a mixture of tasty bits and pieces like yarrow, dock, green pine needles, willow and some good plain hay. Don't give too much at a time as it may get fouled by vomit

Some other evergreens such as Camellias are also poisonous but the symptons are not as severe and no vomiting may take place. The recipes will work pretty well on most forms on poisoning, including toadstool spores

This advice is not to replace the care of a good vet but is a first aid measure until help can arrive