Surfaris

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Australia 1999

Probably the best surf trip of my life (although technically studying at Uni), in 1999 I spent one year savouring the Gold Coast. I surfed from First Point, Noosa, down to The Pass, Byron Bay, spending most of my time around the point breaks at Kirra and Snappers. For people who haven't been there, it's difficult to explain what an amazing set up it is - basically there are five or six world class right-hand point breaks within a few hours drive of each other, all working on the predominant South-Easters that blow there, and all wrapping the powerful cyclone swells into long, clean lines.

If you're going to visit the Gold Coast, I reckon the best season is the southern autumn (Feb-Apr). Then you have the best chance of cyclone swells, the water is as warm as a bath after the summer, and the kids have gone back to school. There are always crowds on the good days though, but if you wait your turn there are enough waves to be had. On bigger days Kirra and Burleigh are hard work, with an incredible sweep round the point. If you can't hack it, it's still fun watching the local boys and pros rip it up. As far as longboarding goes, Snappers and Greenmount offer reliable, mellow point breaks and are sometimes uncrowded during the week. Noosa is fickle and crowded if good. The Pass is unbelievable but also attracts a very competitive crowd. Kirra is surprisingly empty if only waist height, and great fun on a longboard at that size.

More information and webcams showing the breaks can be found at Coastalwatch.com Also check the Australia surf guide at Globalsurfers.com

Portugal 1998

I've been down to Portugal a couple of times now, but in Feb 1998 I headed down there on my own for a week and lucked into 7 days of perfect swell, offshore winds and sunny weather. With a hire car I managed to surf from the Algarve area up the coast to Ericeira. Ericeira is probably the most famous and best area in Portugal for surf, with a whole range of reef, beach and point breaks placed slap bang in front of all the swell from the Atlantic. Coxos and Ribeira D'Ilhas are just amazing at low tide, both right hand points breaking over sand and rock. Supertubes, a freaky perfect barrel beachbreak similar to Puerto Escondido or Hossegor, is around 1 hour north of these spots, and only breaks on a big swell and in a northerly wind.

Any time of year is fine in Portugal for surf. Of course it's hotter in summer, although lots of people say the waves are better in France then, as the swell often comes from the Bay of Biscay next to the west coast of France. Also the water is surprisingly cold in summer in Portugal, many surfers wearing a 3/2mm suit. I reckon spring or autumn are the go, with bigger swells and less crowds. You'll only need a 4/3mm and boots in winter or early spring. Longboarders should bring a back-up shortboard to handle bigger days, as most breaks face west and are pretty juicy. The points are nice on a longboard on smaller days and there's a mellow beachie around 30 mins north of Ericeira that catches all the swell for small days.

For more info on Portugal check out the surf guide at Globalsurfers.com

France early 90s

I guess my very first surfaris were to France. I used to go over there with my brother and assorted surf mates, and camp in a site in Anglet, near Biarritz. We probably spent most of our summer vacations down there whilst studying. This area of France is really nice, with quality beach breaks, beautiful weather (in summer) and a touch of culture. It can be a little expensive and crowded, but if you get up early you'll beat most of the Frenchies to the waves. Anglet and Grande Plage, Biarritz, are regular beach breaks. Hossegor, around 1 hour further north, is another planet. It's the only place (so far) I've seen triple over head waves breaking dry, with some idiots trying to surf them.....

A good time to head over is August. Catch the pro tour and then hang on once the crowds disappear. Most days you can surf in shorts, and even in summer there are regular swells. On big days there's a choice right hand point at Lafitenia, and a bommie at Guethary if you fancy the long paddle. Longboarders will find nice peaks everywhere, and the classic styling spot is Cote des Basques just south of the Grande Plage in Biarritz. While you're there make sure you head down to San Sebastian in Spain for more nice beachies and cheap food and wine.

For more info on France check out the surf guide at Globalsurfers.com

England early 90s

These pics are really cringe-worthy, but I guess everyone has to learn sometime. I started out at Uni in 1990, surfing windswept freezing waves in North Devon and South Wales. Somedays the waves were epic, more often onshore, always frickin cold. Still it makes you paddle fast to keep warm, and try not to wipe out too much. North Devon's Croyde Beach has some really nice waves, pretty punchy and peaky on good swells. I also really like the top end of Llangenith Beach near Swansea. South Devon has nice waves at Praa Sands as well. If you're thinking of visiting, unfortunately our best swells are usually in winter, when you'll need a 5mm suit, boots, gloves and a hood. However, spring or autumn are often good options - just avoid bank holiday weekends with the crowds.

You can surf longboard at most spots in England, though classic longboarding is nice at Saunton in North Devon and on the right hand side of Langland Bay in South Wales (at low tide on a smaller swell). Both these waves can have long clean rides. One big advantage of England is that it's a small country, and you rarely have to drive more than a couple of hours to find a break where the wind is offshore. If you're new to the country, I'd head down to Newquay in Cornwall, where Fistral Beach is a real swell catcher and there are tons of surf shops and bars.

Australia 1999
Probably the best surf trip of my life (although technically studying at Uni), in 1999 I spent one year savouring the Gold Coast. I surfed from First Point, Noosa, down to The Pass, Byron Bay, spending most of my time around the point breaks at Kirra and Snappers. For people who haven't been there, it's difficult to explain what an amazing set up it is - basically there are five or six world class right-hand point breaks within a few hours drive of each other, all working on the predominant South-Easters that blow there, and all wrapping the powerful cyclone swells into long, clean lines.
	If you're going to visit the Gold Coast, I reckon the best season is the southern autumn (Feb-Apr). Then you have the best chance of cyclone swells, the water is as warm as a bath after the summer, and the kids have gone back to school. There are always crowds on the good days though, but if you wait your turn there are enough waves to be had. On bigger days Kirra and Burleigh are hard work, with an incredible sweep round the point. If you can't hack it, it's still fun watching the local boys and pros rip it up. As far as longboarding goes, Snappers and Greenmount offer reliable, mellow point breaks and are sometimes uncrowded during the week. Noosa is fickle and crowded if good. The Pass is unbelievable but also attracts a very competitive crowd. Kirra is surprisingly empty if only waist height, and great fun on a longboard at that size.
More information and webcams showing the breaks can be found at Coastalwatch.com Also check the Australia surf guide at Globalsurfers.com



Portugal 1998
I've been down to Portugal a couple of times now, but in Feb 1998 I headed down there on my own for a week and lucked into 7 days of perfect swell, offshore winds and sunny weather. With a hire car I managed to surf from the Algarve area up the coast to Ericeira. Ericeira is probably the most famous and best area in Portugal for surf, with a whole range of reef, beach and point breaks placed slap bang in front of all the swell from the Atlantic. Coxos and Ribeira D'Ilhas are just amazing at low tide, both right hand points breaking over sand and rock. Supertubes, a freaky perfect barrel beachbreak similar to Puerto Escondido or Hossegor, is around 1 hour north of these spots, and only breaks on a big swell and in a northerly wind.
	Any time of year is fine in Portugal for surf. Of course it's hotter in summer, although lots of people say the waves are better in France then, as the swell often comes from the Bay of Biscay next to the west coast of France. Also the water is surprisingly cold in summer in Portugal, many surfers wearing a 3/2mm suit. I reckon spring or autumn are the go, with bigger swells and less crowds. You'll only need a 4/3mm and boots in winter or early spring. Longboarders should bring a back-up shortboard to handle bigger days, as most breaks face west and are pretty juicy. The points are nice on a longboard on smaller days and there's a mellow beachie around 30 mins north of Ericeira that catches all the swell for small days.
For more info on Portugal check out the surf guide at Globalsurfers.com


France early 90s
I guess my very first surfaris were to France. I used to go over there with my brother and assorted surf mates, and camp in a site in Anglet, near Biarritz. We probably spent most of our summer vacations down there whilst studying. This area of France is really nice, with quality beach breaks, beautiful weather (in summer) and a touch of culture. It can be a little expensive and crowded, but if you get up early you'll beat most of the Frenchies to the waves. Anglet and Grande Plage, Biarritz, are regular beach breaks. Hossegor, around 1 hour further north, is another planet. It's the only place (so far) I've seen triple over head waves breaking dry, with some idiots trying to surf them.....
	A good time to head over is August. Catch the pro tour and then hang on once the crowds disappear. Most days you can surf in shorts, and even in summer there are regular swells. On big days there's a choice right hand point at Lafitenia, and a bommie at Guethary if you fancy the long paddle. Longboarders will find nice peaks everywhere, and the classic styling spot is Cote des Basques just south of the Grande Plage in Biarritz. While you're there make sure you head down to San Sebastian in Spain for more nice beachies and cheap food and wine.
For more info on France check out the surf guide at Globalsurfers.com


England early 90s
These pics are really cringe-worthy, but I guess everyone has to learn sometime. I started out at Uni in 1990, surfing windswept freezing waves in North Devon and South Wales. Somedays the waves were epic, more often onshore, always frickin cold. Still it makes you paddle fast to keep warm, and try not to wipe out too much. North Devon's Croyde Beach has some really nice waves, pretty punchy and peaky on good swells. I also really like the top end of Llangenith Beach near Swansea. South Devon has nice waves at Praa Sands as well. If you're thinking of visiting, unfortunately our best swells are usually in winter, when you'll need a 5mm suit, boots, gloves and a hood. However, spring or autumn are often good options - just avoid bank holiday weekends with the crowds.
	You can surf longboard at most spots in England, though classic longboarding is nice at Saunton in North Devon and on the right hand side of Langland Bay in South Wales (at low tide on a smaller swell). Both these waves can have long clean rides. One big advantage of England is that it's a small country, and you rarely have to drive more than a couple of hours to find a break where the wind is offshore. If you're new to the country, I'd head down to Newquay in Cornwall, where Fistral Beach is a real swell catcher and there are tons of surf shops and bars.