The Fazer 700/750 FAQ
Welcome to the Fazer FAQ. I thought it would be a good idea to make this page in addition to the Yahoo Fazer club. This page will be permanently updated. Feel free to send me your comments, questions AND ANSWERS to any of these topics or add new ones.
This page is
"being made" by the members of the Yahoo Fazer club, (and by anyone
who wants to contribute, really) and will be regulary updated by me, when the
I'm not doing this in fulltime you know, so please be patient ok?
IF ANY OF THE INFO PROVIDED HERE IS PROVED WRONG OR INCOMPLETE, DON’T HESITATE TO DROP ME AN EMAIL TO CORRECT IT. I TRY TO BE AS ACCURATE AND SPECIFIC AS I CAN BUT WE’RE ALWAYS LEARNING, RIGHT?
Mike from the FZX Fazer Club has assembled this info on LED indicators and here it is, reprinted by kind permission along with the wiring diagram and all. Thanks a lot Mike for sharing this with the rest of us.
Some help to anyone considering fitting LED indicators.
I fitted LED indicators front and back to my FZX
(they plug into the existing indicator wiring) and had the usual problem that is
"They don't work!".
The reason is that the normal flasher unit requires an electrical load
applied to it to make it work, this is normally achieved by
the current that is used by the normal indicator bulbs but LED's only
require a very small amount of power to make them work and don't draw
enough current to make the flasher unit work.
A common way of fixing this is to use resistors inline with the LED indicators to simulate the load, there are a few types of resistor available that are supposed to fix the problem such as ones that are built into two wires that simply plug into the existing wiring, these often come with the LED indicators when you buy them, i tried these and they don't work as they don't offer enough resistance.
Another type is available which are much bigger and often come in a gold heatsink i spent a few hours wiring these in various ways with only partial success, these resistors offer enough resistance in fact they are too big and only three out of the eighteen LED's in the indictors lit up and they were far dimmer than a normal bulb!
I did find one way of wiring them in so that all the LED's worked and
thought i had solved the problem until i switched the indicators off
and the flasher unit was still flashing/clicking.
The reason this happens is because as soon as the ignition is turned
on power goes to the flasher unit and the resistors still apply a load to it regardless of if the indicators are on or not.
So, "Don't bother with resistors" buy a proper electronic flasher unit, they cost about £20 but it's the only thing that i can get to work properly on the FZX!
I ordered the unit for a yamaha but it does not plug straight into the
FZX wiring as the connector is different but it's only two wires (the
same as a FZX) and just needs a couple of new connectors fitted.
Now i had the indicators working i then realised the dash with the indicator warning light was not connected so i plugged it in and then found the next problem, the indicator light on the dash did not work when the indicators were turned on and all the indicators were now flashing together like hazard warning lights, very weird!
This seems to be because the indicator warning light is a bulb and as small as it is it's putting to much load on the electronic flasher unit, if the bulb is removed everything works ok.
So i thought replace the bulb with a single LED but that was to easy and it caused more strange problems, so i put a single LED in parallel on each of the front indicators and success a flashing single LED warning light with the indicators.
This means that there are now two LED's one for the left side and one for the right, they are fitted into the dash in place of the old bulb.
Most LED's are not designed to run on 12volts but they are available with a resistor soldered to them so they can or you can solder a resistor on yourself like i did, a 470-500Ohm 1/4Watt resistor will do the job.
Original post on the FZX Fazer Club by Shawn (snoo) from the UK.
Shawn took some of his precious riding time to compile this article so I want to thank him for this precious info.
Q: How do I Derestrict my 5 Speed Yamaha FZX750?
A: It is acknowledged that the 5 Speed version of the FZX750 has some restriction upon the engine. This is due to the fact that in Japan these bikes are used for training purposes. The 6 Speed version available to some parts of the world is to be considered a full power model.
restriction manifests in 2 specific forms:
1. Top Speed restriction
2. Air Box Restriction
1. Top speed restriction can be bypassed faily easily. You need to obtain a speedometer converter from a company such as M&P (www.mandp.com) They sell a gold coloured mechanical converter that fits down by the FZX frontwheel. What this converter then does is move the speed restriction from say 200KPH to 200MPH!! Thus making it irrelevant.
2. The air box restriction is a bit trickier but nothing past the average home mechanics ability.
i. Remove the air box lid and you will see that there is a rubber bung that fits half way down the inside of the Air Filter Element. This has to be removed.
ii. Examine the lid of the air box and you will notice that one of the passage ways is blocked by another large rubber bung. This also needs to be removed. First remove the clip and then pull out the bung.
iii. Now the engine has doubled it's air intake which means there will be a lack of fuel, meaning the bike will not rev above tickover. To overcome this you need to replace the main jets in the Carburettor. The replacement sizes are:
1&4 = 102.5
Carbs 2&3 = 105
carbs are a bit tricky to remove. Take off the airbox and then the fuel tank (Stop
cock on lower left hand side). After disconnecting all of the pipes and cables
to the carbs the carbs' need to be wiggled out sideways. There isn't much
clearance so it takes some perseverance. I seem to remember that they exit to
the right easier than the left!
To get to the main jets you have to remove the float bowls. Best done in a plastic bowl as there will be fuel still dripping from them (So NO SMOKING!!!). I found the screws retaining the float bowls to be very stiff. Have a friend on hand to hold the carb' block and use a good impact driver on them. Don't risk damaging the screw heads with bad fitting tools. It is advisable to replace these screws with Hex types on re-assembly.
The Main Jets can now be replaced (Exploded pictures of the carbs can be found in the Clymer manual or downloaded from the FZX Club site at Yahoo).
With the carbs out it's worth spraying some Carb Cleaner around and inside the float bowls to give everything a clean. Imports can be stood for some time meaning fuel residue can layer the units.
Now put everything back together, taking time to make sure you've fitted everything securely and turn the fuel tap back on.
My last suggestion is to drill 4 x 6mm holes in the ends of each of the silencers. This is just to provide a little extra flow through the exhausts for the extra intake. Possibly not neccesary but it sounds nice at least!
Your FZX should now have gone from producing around 60BHP to around 90BHP. Opening the throttle from about 3000rpm results in a very addictive airbox growl and after passing 6000rpm you should notice a large surge of acceleration from about 7500rpm to the redline (a la FZ750).
option to the above you may choose to fit a Dynojet Stage 1 or Stage 3 (Details
from FZX club). This will release a few more horses but is a more expensive and
time consuming option. Best done at a later date when you feel it's time for
another performance boost!
You may notice a small flatspot at about 6000rpm. This is a standard emmisions point and is the same with all bikes. Aftermarket exhausts can help with this. This is a performance hike though and not needed for de-restriction.
Rumour has it that there were some FZX's with restrictions in the CDi whereby a light would come on, on the display to indicate max RPM. However, none of these bikes seem to have appeared within the club so it could just be a myth. If however you do have this restriction people can assist on fitting an FZR1000 CDi to get around it.
Chicken shit Disclaimer:
I take no resposibilty for any damage done to the bike whist carrying out these
modifications or any future damage to your Driving Licence...
Well simply put, this bike kicks ass. And I'm not talking Bandit600 or GS500.
I mean this bike is extremely fast even in the 700cc version.
This bike loves ¼ miles head to head with CBR600 and GSXR600.
This, along with a great looking retro naked figure, makes this bike a pearl in the sea of boring stock looking bikes.
After 15 years and with just minor updates along the years of production, this bike can keep up with practically any modern bike on the street.
This is a true classic (very rare in the US) musclebike that, along with a gorgeous sillouette, has a mean engine to back it up.
In the USA the Fazer was sold for two years, ’86 and ’87 in the 700cc
version, so this makes the Fazer a very rare bike in the USA. If you’re
thinking about getting one, be sure you lock your garage door and put a doberman
In Europe (some countries) the bike was sold until the mid nineties in the 750cc version. In Portugal, the bike was sold until ’98 always in the 750cc version.
Apparently, in Japan they still sell them. Lucky bastards. :-)
Q: Why don't Yamaha produce/export it anymore?
A: To my knowledge, Yamaha still produces FZX/Fazers for the Japanese market only. That’s the info I got. Maybe the sales won’t justify exporting it to other countries. And with the amount of new bikes being released all the time, the "old" Fazer just can't keep up with the sales. But I know many people would buy a brand new Fazer if they had the chance. Especially those guys in the USA.
Q: What's the diference between a Fazer and a FZX?
In the USA they are called Fazer (700cc), in Europe we call them FZX (750cc).
But apart from the displacement, the Fazer and the FZX are exactly the same
The 700cc version has a destroked crankshaft. Bore and head are the same.
Q: Were there any diferences/upgrades along the years it was produced?
As far as I know, the ignition changed from analog to digital in ’88. Early FZX had two pickup wires (one left, one right crank side).
Later FZX have one pickup (right side).
Some versions (japanese...?) have five speed gearboxes and restricted engines (Booooohh!)
Apart from that, no other relevant upgrades were introduced along the years.
Q: What did the magazines say about it when it came out?
Q: Is the Fazer a good street bike?
Well, let me quote the opening message from the Fazer club, by Manny from
"Welcome to the Fazer 700/FZX 750 club, dedicated to the best, most versatile naked power cruiser ever built. From Saturday night downtown cruising, sport-touring and commuting to drag-racing, road-racing, and even, believe it or not, gravel road exploring, here's a bike that does it all reliably, very quickly and with style and comfort."
This guy knows more about Fazers than all of us put together. He has ridden, raced, drag-raced, off-road, everything you can think about, on the Fazer as well many other bikes, so take it from me, he knows what he's talking about.
Q: Why is there a 700cc and a 750cc version?
A: This had to do with import restrictions in the USA. Aparently, in the mid eighties Harley Davidson felt threaten by the growing Japanese bike market, so the USA imposed high import costs to bikes with more than 700cc.
Q: PARTS! Where can I get parts for it? Stock or aftermarket, where can I find them?
A: I think this is the more common asked question. My advice is, if you’re looking for specific Fazer parts, like side panels, gas tanks, wheels and such, you might try your luck on your local salvage yard or breaker, ot try some of the internet used bikes/parts websites like:
Ebay (from time to time, many parts and even some FZXs show up on Ebay; check it out regulary)
The Parts Guy
List of motorcycle breakers in the UK
Fischer Custom Wheels
M & P
Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse
post your "wanted" request on one of the Fazer clubs around, maybe
someone has that part you're searching.
If you’re looking for parts like mirros, headlights, taillights, turn signlas, fuel pumps/filters, etc AND you can’t find them in the above places, there are lots of different brands/universal items you can adapt with very little effort, if you don’t mind of having a round headlight instead of a square one.
If you’re looking for clutch plates, oil filters, gaskets and other consumables, let me tell you a secret. Many Yamaha models share these same parts. I have XT600 and TDM850 clutch plates on my FZX, the crankcase gasket is a YZF750 item and I have the info that R6 plates also work. This is just an example. The best way is getting the part number from the parts catalogue and maybe the part itself and head to your Yamaha dealer. If you ask :”parts for a Fazer?” he might tell you: “NO”, but if you take the part number and the part he might say: “Yes, of course, FZRs use these parts too, so it will fit, no problem.”
Mainly, FZ/FZR and YZF parts are your best bet in interchangable parts.
Q: How much should I pay for a second-hand Fazer?
Q: What kind of horsepower should a Fazer make?
A: a stock 700cc should be around 74hp and a 750cc around 85/88hp. A good tuned stage 3 FZX750 can make up to 100rwhp.
Q: What are the most common modifications?
I would say/recommend the first changes would be the suspension, especially the
front forks. See handling section.
Exhausts. See exausts section.
Many people remove the back plastic and metal fender to show the rear tire a bit more, which looks good. You’ll have to make a new hanger for the license plate and turn signals.
Small fairings and windshields. See accessories section.
Replacing the seats. Corbin makes a fantastic Gunfighter seat specially for the Fazer.
- Microfiches (parts catalogue)
- Owner's manual
- The Fazer Service Manual (not complete)
- Clymer has a service manual that covers the FZ750 and FZX700/750
Q: What oil should I use?
Q: What about filters?
Q: Synthetic oil and clutch slipping
Q: Should I use oil additives like Slick50?
Q: Will a jet kit improve my bike?
Q: Dynojets: Differences between USA/European kits
Q: My bike just died on me! Fuel pumps and fuel related problems
A: "I recently fixed the low fuel light on my 86 US spec Fazer, so if anyone is interested, here's how it works: The sensor in the tank is a thermistor, which is wired in series with the low fuel light. When there is gas around it, it is cooled by the gas, so the resistance is high, therefore only a trickle of current flows through it and the light. This small amount of current is not enough to illuminate the light. When the gas level falls below the thermistor, it heats up since there is no gas to cool it. As it heats up, the resistance goes down, so there is more current flow, therefore the light turns on. Additionally, on the Fazer, this also trips the fuel pump relay so the pump turns off. The RES switch turns the pump back on. My thermistor was burned open, it had infinite resistance, so my light never came on. My local used parts dealer said that Yamaha, Honda, Kaw, and Suzuki all use the same thermistor, so he sold me a used one for 5 bucks. It works perfectly. I did have to unsolder it from the bracket it came on and then solder it onto my bracket that's in the tank. I also had to solder the wire to hook it up electrically."
Note: This was originally posted in the FZX club by "emwest222000", and was reposted here by kind permission.
Q: I want more power. What are my options?
The most common engine upgrade, the 4-1 exaust / k&N filter / Dynojet kit
should give you not a huge but a noticeble power gain.
If you own a Fazer 700 you can simply swap the engine for a FZX750 or FZ/FZR750 and take advantage of the extra 50cc. These engines are direct swaps with no or irrelevant mods.
If you’re a power freak, you can always swap your engine with the ’87 or ’88 FZR1000 engine. Shhhh! Keep this secret. This engine swap requires only a few mods as it must use the stock Fazer water pump and shift shaft.
The later Exup1000 engines are not supposed to fit, due to the decreased (from 45º to 35º) engine block inclination, but I've seen a small number of FZXs with Exup engines in them, so I guess they fit alright... however I'm not sure about the amount of labour needed to shoehorn them into the FZX chassis...
You can also keep your Fazer crank and 6speed box and swap only the FZR1000 engine block / rods / pistons / head / carbs and have the 911cc conversion. This is a more or less "famous" mod among racers and engine tuners.
Or you can simply fit the ’88 FZR1000 37mm carbs on your Fazer and take advantage of the extra gulp of gas.
Wiseco has a big bore piston kit for the FZ/FZR750. Any aditional info on this would be appreciated and it will be added here. Thanks.
Q: Which parts are interchangeable with the FZ/FZR 750 and FZR1000?
Engine parts are pratically all interchangeable, some parts depending on the
year of making.
FZ750 wheels are a direct swap to the Fazer. Later FZ750 front wheel (17”) is not a direct swap because of the rotors size.
Early FZR1000 rear wheel (4.5”x18”) is not a direct fit but can be machined to fit. Wheel hub have 5 rubber fins instead of the Fazer 3.
Early FZR1000 Genesis front end is a direct swap to the FZX chassis, as the steering stem is identical. So, this is an easy way to get beefy forks, huge brakes and a 17" front wheel in your FZX.
Q: How can I make my stock exhaust sound better?
A: The most usual mod is to make 5 or 6 holes (6mm or so drill bit) in a circular patern around each exhaust bore. This gives you a sweet rumble that is not to loud but definitely catches attention on a Saturday night. Drawbacks are it decreases exhaust value (if you intent to sell it after) and looks (subjective).
Q: Where can I find an aftermarket exhaust?
A: Predator Motorsport Exhausts is currently one of the best bets in aftermarket exhausts for the FZX. They make a full 4-2 inox exhaust specially designed for the FZX700/750.
There are a few other exhaust manufacturers that have 4-1 exhausts for the
Kerker and Hindle to name a couple.
Note: Aug2004 Kerker discontinued the 4-1 for the FZX, so it's now a rare item, if you can find any.
Vance&Hines makes a 4-1 for the FZ750 which will fit the FZX Fazer.
Laser have a full 4-2 exhaust system that will give you a deep throaty rumble. Slip-ons - Header pipes.
FZ750 exhausts are supposed to fit; however, they may block the oil drain bolt (which means you'll have to remove the exhaust to change the oil) and may NOT clear the center stand, which will have, in some cases, to be removed. Be sure to clear this out with your dealer if you're getting an FZ750 exhaust. In addition, a diferent intermediate pipe (the one between header pipes and the silencer) may have to be worked out or modified and a new bracket for the silencer fabricated.
I have a 4-1 FZ750 race exhaust on my Fazer that was fitted after a bit of struggle and some filthy words.
'87 and '88 FZR1000 exhausts may fit but they'll probably need to be modified at the exhaust ports exits. FZR1000 exhausts have larger bore pipes than the FZX.
Q: How can I upgrade my front suspension?
Usually the best bang for the buck is some progressive springs (WP, Progressive
Suspension, etc) and a good quality oil. To complement this I've made some metal
(but PVC will work ok) spacers of about 3,5cm above the springs
for an extra preload. With this setup I run NO air pressure on the forks. No
more busted fork seals. Yeah!
Complete front end swap. $$$$$. Can improve a lot the Fazer behaviour (and riding fun) but it’s not cheap.
Early FZR1000 Genesis front end is a direct swap to the FZX chassis, as the steering stem is identical. So, this is an easy way to get beefy forks, huge brakes and a 17" front wheel in your FZX.
04APR2002 - My Vmax is currently going through a YZF750 front suspension transplant and so, as I can't keep my hands in my pockets, I had to try and fit the stock Vmax suspension on the Fazer.
The Vmax and Fazer steering stems are identical twins. This means that the Vmax suspension is a bolt-on to the FZX!
More good stuff: the YZF600 Thundercat 17" wheel is an easy fit on the Vmax suspension. you just have to get your hands on a YZF600 front wheel, speedo drive and right spacer, then trim (like cut a slice) on the left and right inner side of the Vmax forks and the wheel will slide right in. you'll use the Vmax wheel axle too. I got this info from some cool dudes from a Vmax mailing list. Thanks guys.
HOT TIP: if you are going to do this, be sure you get a later ('93 -> on) Vmax suspension. These are 43mm suspensions with regular Yamaha 4pot calipers, that can be easily upgraded (bolt-on) to YZF750 6pot or R1 monoblock calipers.
Early Vmaxes have 40mm forks with the same twin oposed calipers as the Fazer. Not good.
Chris from Greece has a complete ZXR400 front and back end on his Fazer. It’s one of the best looking Fazers I’ve ever seen. Check the Fazer club's photos section.
Q: How can I upgrade my rear suspension?
The back shocks are ok to me but if want to upgrade, you might try Works
shocks proven with good results on the Fazer by many fans. I have
Vmax stock shocks on my
Fazer. Cheap if you get them second-hand, a bit taller (12" for the Fazer,
13" for the Vmax) than the Fazer items
(taller ride height for quicker steering) and adjustable in preload AND damping
against the Fazers preload only. Oh and they are a direct swap, no mods
There are a lot of dual shocks that you can fit, this is more a question of how much ($$$) are you willing to pay for them.
XJR1200 or XJR1300 rear shocks will fit without mods.
GSX1400 rear shocks will fit without mods.
Probably many other Yamaha dual shocks will fit the FZX, namely the XV Viragos.
Q: Lowering the forks through the trees. Why?
A: Lowering the forks through the trees 1 to 1 ½ inches will quicken your steering noticebly. If you fit a larger rear tire, (slower steering) you can do this to compensate a bit.
Q: Will a steering damper help in high speed wobbling?
There has been much debate on this subject and the general consensus is NO. No
means steering dampers are useful in controling tank slapping when you get out a
curve with a Wide Open Throttle. High speed wobbling is due mainly to soft
suspension and frame flexing. If you want to cure wobbling, invest on suspension
upgrades, modern wheels/tires and frame braces. I think a steering damper for the Fazer is not worth
the price it costs comparing it with the (poor?) results you get.
However, like everything in life, some will say it will give good results. Try one, find out for yourself and give me feedback and it'll be added here :-)
Q: I want more stopping power. How can I upgrade my brakes?
A: FZR400RR calipers are bolt-on to the Fazer fork legs but to speak the truth I’m still searching for a couple to try for myself. Other Yamaha calipers (FJ, VMAX) will not fit because bolt mounting spacing is greater than the Fazer.
Q: Will steel braided hoses help my braking?
Simple answer: Yes. Steel/kevlar hoses don’t give you more braking power; the
purpose of steel hoses is stoping the hose from expanding with heat (constant
use) and always keep your braking power in top level. Normal hoses expand with
constant use (like in a race) due to the heat and braking starts loosing its
efficiency (less braking power, spongy feel)
This applies also to the hidraulic clutch, if you get some steel lines for your brakes, fit one in the clutch also.
Q: Is modern rubber available for the 16"/15" wheels? What tires are recommended?
There are no modern tires available for these wheels. The only tires you can get
are cruiser type tires like Bridgestone Exedras and Dunlop Qualifiers. You can
forget the Pirelli Dragons and the Metzeler MEZ1s.
I’ve always used the Metzelers Laser ME33(0) on the front, which I think is the best tire available at the moment for these front wheels and the Marathon ME88(0) on the back. They are more expensive than others but I think they are worth every Euro.
These tires are the only recommended by the factory for the Fazer but of course everyone has their personal taste. Other opinions are welcome here.
I once tried the Michelin Tarmac on the back and hated the damn tire. Takes ages to warm up and I can burnout for 10 minutes without running out of tire. Hard as a rock, good for about 1.000.000 Km.
I’ll add more opinions on tires as they arrive.
Q: Can I change the rear wheel to a 17 inch?
Well you can, and the proof is I did that on my Fazer.
I fitted a ZZR1100 (ZX11) rear wheel, 5.5x17” with a 180/55 which is the biggest you can fit because of chain/tire clearence and wheels alignment. It had to be machined, the hub (sprocket carrier) had to be cutted and machined for sprockets/chain alignment, a few spacers were made but it fited nicely, using the stock axle and brake.
Check the Drag-Fazer section on my website (17” wheel swap) for details and pics.
Of course when it comes to wheels swaps the best you can do is change all the back end, wheel, hub, brake, swingarm. The best bet is to take everything from one bike (front and back end) and transfer it to the Fazer. Again, Chris from Greece grabbed a ZXR400 and a chainsaw and now he has a Fazer with modern suspension and wheels. Smart, heh?
There are some other Fazer club members who did the conversion, and I'll post a subsection here about how to do it.
The '87/'88 FZR1000 rear wheel may be easily modified to fit the FZX swingarm. Although this is a 18" (with a 160 tire), it still looks and handles good. To check out details on this mod check out Jason's FZX with FZR1000 rolling gear in the "worldwide FZX" or "FZX Hall of fame" section.
HOT TIP: As Fred did on his FZX, one of the easiest mods to fit 17" a rear wheel is to take a Yamaha TDM850 rear wheel. Only a little machining will be required. This wheel will allow you to fit a 160/60 ZR17 tire. Check the "worldwide FZX" or "FZX Hall of fame" section to check out the details on this mod.
Another mod that's becoming very popular is to fit the XJR1200 entire back end. Swingarm assembly, wheel, everything. And the best, it's pratically a bolt-on job!!!
my 17" wheel conversion below:
Frans 17" wheel conversion below:
Q: What about the front wheel?
You can take a 17” wheel (FZR, YZF, etc) and try to make it fit the Fazer
(personally I don't know any front 17" wheel that'll be a direct swap on
the Fazer forks) but the best is to get a whole front end from another bike and not having to
mess with rotors size/mounting points and calipers spacing and stuff, which can
give you real bad headaches.
'87/'88 FZR1000 front ends are direct swaps, no mods. You'll get beefy 41mm forks, 4pot calipers and a 17" wheel. Enough for you...?
people have complained about problems that have been traced to the failing of
the fuel pump.
I know some Vmax riders also have the same problem.
The Fazer uses an electric fuel pump. if you don't want/know how to fix it, you can go to your auto store and buy a regular low PSI (4 or 5 PSI) electric fuel pump for carburetor engines (no injection) and just replace it.
Fairings. Are there any for the Fazer? Where can I find them?