Yang Chen Dolma, the friend in Ladakh who runs the Greenland Guesthouse. Yang Chen's place is a little different than the standard traveller's spot. It's more like a family--she makes special food for you when you're not feeling well, she tells you the good place to get the right price, buy the best food, go with the best horseman. Yangchen, and her family-- Yang Chen the younger, son Stanzin and husband Norbu-- are renown among discriminating travelers for their warmth, hospitality, and great Ladakhi food. If you're looking for the good spot to stay in Leh, look no further.
The miracle of the digital camera comes to Panakhar, a mostly muslim town on the way to Zanskar. These girls were enchanted with Natalie's images, and kept asking for "ek photo!" (one photo).
This is Ogu, which means uncle in Tibetan. Ogu was my horseman who had come from Tibet the same year H.H. Dalai Lama left--1959. He'd then joined the Indian army and had many adventures there, including an epic and tragic attempt to climb Nun, a 7,000 m. peak that looms over the entrance to the Zanskar Valley. Ogu had been part of the summit assault team, but was sent back to a lower camp for supplies. A subsequent avalanche killed many of Ogu's comrades. Ogu is 73 years old, and can walk the pants off anyone. Besides being an excellent horseman (able to send his ponies on their own across the river, walk them downstream past a trouble spot, then whistle for their return across to his side), he has a great spirit and an infectious, toothless smile. Tough, but goes with the flow. Thanks Ogu.