THE SIGNIFICANCE OF TARTAN
The underlying
significance of the tartan today is as a means of clan or family
allegiance, but just when and how this became a part of Scottish culture
is hotly debated. The Collins Encyclopaedia of Scotland
illustrates this confusion by sharing various perspectives on the matter:
"There
are still some who would claim that, right back into the mists of time,
each of the clans and families was immediately recognisable by the
pattern or sett of the tartan that wore it. The idea is attractively
romantic, but the evidence for it is extremely slight and it rests on
one or two isolated and far from conclusive examples. While there is
plenty of evidence to suggest that Highlanders wore tartan, there is
very little which fits with the idea that a widespread system of
recognition existed before the early 1800s (928)."
One factor that
has been decisive about the history of the development of the modern
system of identification has been the influence of the tartan
manufacturer. They were responsible for developing early catalogs and
order books. It was soon accepted that the authority for stating what was
the correct tartan for a clan must be its chief. In 1815, the Highland
Society of London began its collection of approved tartans; and the first
book on clan tartans appeared in 1831.
Identifiable
tartans have grown, as the Scottish Clan and Family Encyclopedia states,
"from a trickle to a flood. Many clans have more than one tartan;
there are a host of names who are distinguished by a tartan of their own
although they have never constituted a clan; and against a list of around
one hundred recognized clan chiefs today, records of some two thousand
named tartans exist, of which a number represent public bodies or
commemorate specific events (39)."
DIFFERENT
TYPES OF TARTAN
In addition to
normal clan tartan, in some cases a clan may also have 'Hunting' or
'Dress' setts adapted for their particular activity (hunting more muted
and dress more fancy).
Other tartans
may be described as "Ancient", "Modern",
"Reproduction", "Weathered" and "Muted". The
first three of these have nothing to do with the antiquity of the pattern,
but with the dyes employed.
THE
KEITH AND AUSTIN TARTANS
The proper name
for Clan Keith's tartan is "Keith and Austin". While Austins
were a sept of Clan Keith, it is unclear as to how their surname became a
part of the official tartan name. Either way, the Chief of Clan Keith
recognizes both an Ancient and Modern version of the sett (shown below).
Today's Clan Keith members may wear either, but the ancient is much more
common - in part because the darker dyes used with the modern tartan make
it difficult to distinguish from the famous Black Watch tartan.
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