HIGHLAND
DRESS
The evolution
of Highland dress owes much to the military. After the Proscription,
civilian dress began to reflect that of the military. Many of the
characteristic features of today's dress have a military origin, such as
the shoulder straps on today's jackets and the buttons on the sleeve.
The
cuts of various forms of evening jacket can also be traced back to the
late 1700s, including the "Prince Charlie" (shown left) and
Argyle.
Toward the end
of the eighteenth century, the great kilt gave way to today's "little
kilt". Early kilts were usually made of less material, for economic
reasons, and were worn much higher up the leg. Today, it is considered
proper for the kilt to fall to the top of the wearer's knee (although many
wear it improperly longer).
Sporrans
started out as utilitarian leather pouches hung about the waist and drawn
together with strings. The more decorative 'sporan molach', or hair
sporran, appeared toward the end of the eighteenth century. Today
sporran's are primarily decorative, with more casual leather available for
day-wear and more formal hair sporrans for evening-wear.
Waistcoats have
become less common, giving way to waist belts worn with a large brass or
silver buckle. Belts are considered optional wear.
Hose
were originally made of cloth, and usually patterned with a red and white
'war pattern'. They were later replace by knitted woollen hose. Today's
white hose are of modern origin, originating in the 1960s as a substitute
to the diced or tartan hose for evening wear.
Dirks
were originally worn as personal weapons. Today they are worn in great
variety, both day and night, but 'proper' wear is 'for evening full-dress
occasions'. The 'sgian dubh', worn in the hosetop, became general wear
only in the nineteenth century.
The
round knitted bonnet, originally worn flat, towards the end of the
eighteenth century was cocked up vertically and then decorated by ostrich
plumes. This eventually became the military feather bonnet, and by
creasing the unadorned bonnet from front-to-rear, became the Glengarry
bonnet (shown left). Bonnets as a part of Highland dress are also worn
less frequently today.
"Although
the story by which the tartan kilt has become the national dress of
Scotland is tortuous and myth-laden, and the way in which it is worn can
vary from the sublime to the ridiculous, Highland dress is a powerful
symbol of the wearer's pride in a Scottish ancestry and in Scotland
itself. There are few, if any, other forms of national dress which can
claim to make such a clear and unequivocal statement, and to be so
instantly and widely recognisable (42)."
Source:
Scottish Clan & Family Encyclopedia
DRESSING
FOR THE OCCASSION
Many members of
Clan Keith choose to show their Scottish and clan pride by wearing the
tartan and/or Highland dress. This dress is not required and can be quite
expensive, but should you choose to become actively involved in Scottish
and clan events you will probably choose to follow this practice. Our
society is dedicated to observing and respecting our heritage, and thus we
encourage individuals to properly wear the tartan and/or Highland dress.
One of the best instructional guides is So You're Going to
Wear the Kilt? by J. Charles Thompson (published by
Heraldic Art, Arlington, VA).
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