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Break-in Theory and a Procedure

FZ1 Super Standard
A Modern  Muscle Bike right out of the box.
One bike that can do it all for me

Engine break-in by Moto Man's Ideas and Procedure,  a much different viewpoint from the standard "take it easy manufacture recommendations."

This is what the Manual states:
...There is never a more important period in the life of your engine than the period between 0 and 1000+mi.  For this reason, you should read the following material carefully.
....Since the engine is brand new, do not put an excessive load on it for the first 1,600 km. The various parts in the engine wear and polish themselves to the correct operating clearances. During this period, prolonged full-throttle operation or any condition that might result in engine overheating must be avoided.
....0-600 miles----------Avoid prolonged operation above 5,000 r/min.
....600-1000 miles ----Avoid prolonged operation above 6,000 r/min.
....Over 1000+----------The vehicle can now be operated normally

This what MotoMan responded to a direct email question from Uffe from Sweden, 3/2002:

Uffe writes MotoMan:
I read the articles on breaking in procedure but there is one thing that puzzles me.
Does all this really work with a motor that has hard-wearing chrome-composite plated bores (which the FZ1 has)?
MotoMan says "The rough crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a “file” to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly "use up" the roughness"
Is there any rough crosshatch pattern in the FZ1 bores?
If you have any answer I would be more than happy to hear it...

MotoMan responded immediately:
Thanks for your e-mail!
The "break in article" was actually first started as being about the GSXR 750, which has a nikasil bore material.
The "FZ1" uses the same bore material as the R1, and that's where I did most of my break in "research".
What I mean is that you will have no problem with using the instructions of my article, because your new bike has the same material in it's cylinder bore. 
The main idea is to accelerate & decelerate your bike to put a load on the piston rings.
What you said is true..... you can't hone a composite cylinder with a normal honing stone. The cylinders do have a "crosshatch" pattern to provide oil retention, and to wear in the rings, just like the older steel cylinders. The only difference is that the composite cylinders need a special diamond hone.
Sincerely,  Pat McGivern ~MotoMan 


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Last uploaded:  3/14/2002

Break-in Theory and a Procedure
from Moto Man


....The Mototune USA site was posted on the SabMag list recently (2/2002), indicating the "break-in" article was informational, and it is. MotoMan's site and articles have caught my attention. I have copied and edited his break-in article to make it readable for posting. The site has other links and pics. 

What's the Best Way to Break-in a New Motorcycle Engine ??
Summarized from Mototune USA, Moto Man's site and information,
….The reason for breaking in an engine is to optimize compression seal, thus minimizing pressure loss in the cylinders.
….A racer’s preferable break-in is on a dyno or on the a racetrack, but most of us have to break our engines in on the street, but can still benefit by understanding the theory and a practical procedure.
….The piston ring seal is really what the break-in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings do not seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil as the piston goes back the bore. The ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall. That level of low spring tension cannot seal 3,000 + lbs. of pressure created from the combustion gases. Like the exploding power inside a gun barrel produces high-pressures, so does the “exploding” fuel and air mixture inside the combustion chamber of an engine.
….Sealing the ring comes from the actual combustion gas pressure. The gases created by the rapid, explosive ignition and burning of the fuel/air mixture in the cylinder takes the path of least resistance, which means it passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind the ring to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order for the ring to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough then the entire ring will make contact with the cylinder surface, and it will wear perfectly into the right shape. Thus open your new throttle up and run the engine/bike at higher rpm’s, speeds, following a plan similar to that outlined below for break-ins on the racetrack.
….The rough crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a “file” to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly "use up" the roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run. So if the rings aren't immediately forced against the walls, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. In racing, once that happens there is no solution but to re-hone the cylinders, install new rings and try again. But for street riders, there is only one chance to break-in the engine ring seal.
NOTE: If you use a dyno with a brake, it is during break-in that you allow the bike to decelerate fully on it's own. The engine vacuum created during deceleration sucks the excess oil and metal off the cylinder walls to keep the rings from wearing very much. That's why a new engine "smokes" on decel. If you're doing it right, you'll notice the smoke goes away after about 7-8 runs. If you use the dyno to brake the rings will gum up with oil-metal gunk.
….Break-in procedure on a Dyno: Warm the engine up completely, then: Do three, 3/4 throttle runs from 6,000 to 11,000 rpm. Let the bike cool down. Do three, 3/4 throttle runs from 5,000 to 12,000 rpm. Let it cool down. Do three full throttle runs from 4,000 to Redline. Let it cool down.

….Break-in procedure on the Racetrack: Warm the engine up completely, then: Do one easy lap to warm up your tires. Following the above rpm guidelines. Pit, turn off the bike & check for leaks or any safety problems.
….Normally the break-in procedure for the average rider will be on the street so the best one can do is follow the dyno and track guidelines as close as possible.
….The owner's manual says to break it in easy ...
….The argument for an easy break-in is: "that's what the manual says,” or more specifically, "there may be tight parts in the engine and it might seize if it's run hard."
….Actually, if there are any parts that tight, no amount of running will loosen them up properly As long as the engine is fully brought up to temperature before it's run hard, there normally shouldn't be a problem. If there is something wrong with the engine clearances from the factory you'll be much better off finding it out on a dyno, rather than on the street or racetrack !!! Of course, the owner's manual says take it easy for 3,000 miles !! Why ?? Because if there is a problem with the assembly from the factory, the manufacturers have to cover their butts.
….Pictures (on the web site) of a Honda F3 pistons show the difference. The one broken in on the street exactly according to the owner's manual are resulting in leaky rings that allowed pressure to "blow by" down into the crankcase on acceleration, and oil to "suck-up" into the combustion chamber on deceleration. Needless to say, this bike is slow!
….The picture of the bike broken in on the racetrack, as per Moto Man's instructions shows after a full season of hard racing, perfect ring seal, no scuffing, lots of trophies.
….Break-in is up to you, but the loss in power from improper ring sealing is around 2% - 10%.
….Three more words on break- in: NO SYNTHETIC OIL !! Use w40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least 2 days of racing or 1,500 miles of street riding. After that use your favorite brand of oil.


IowaZ thoughts----
....I have to assume Moto Man's is saying not to use synthetic oil because its superior lubrication retards the "filing" effect of the cylinder wall with the ring and therefore the break-in is not as effective as needed, or as can be obtained with higher friction level from using auto oil.
....Speaking of normal auto oil, that is all we used around here (Shell Fire and Ice as the "choice") until recent years when race development has produced cycle specific oils for the common rider. I was too dumb to know about Honda's cover up the oiling problems with their early V4's of the mid-80's so continued to run auto oil until the Internet livened up about 1995. At that time I spent countless hours digging into the lubrication issues, and ended up kicking my own tail for not understanding and going synthetic, even in my lawn mower, decades ago. I presently have 100k miles on bikes with street muscle without any issues, but I do not drag or race, only aggressive street/road riding. If a clutch slips or goes bad, I will change oils, or increase spring pressure, or replace the clutch plates, etc, as needed, but personally sold on synthetics.
....Moto Man's statement, "oil of choice after 1.5k miles," I guess, leaves the door open to any good cycle oil, including synthetic I shall continue to run full synthetic cycle specific oil in my street bikes. With old "junk" like the V65, I do not think we have a choice. Until the last couple of years, I was running Torco, but since Mobil 1 Cycle has become locally available, it is now my cycle oil of choice, but many others are just great.
....Moto Man makes a good case for immediate quick-time break-in, and the procedure does make some sense. I tend to be impatient and run the hell out of any new bike from the start, however I have done that without any logical order in what I am doing, such as he suggests. Like most street riders, I have absolutely no idea of what is happening with the "inner" world of engines with "real power."
....His information caught my attention, because cycle tech people such as Ivan, Moto Man's and others on the list are actually inside the machine, working with the chemistry and physics of performance efficiency. My opinions are like Voodoo- magic, I just dream up what I think the cycle gremlins are doing.

Break-in Posts of Interest

....Very interesting stuff. I have to wonder, though, if his comparison is a good one. The race track bike is likely tuned differently from the street bike. The race bike is also run a lot differently than the street bike. Couldn't that account for the differences in the photograph? I actually agree with the idea that some hard running is good for the bike early on. Mine saw a dyno at about 650 miles, and the engine only got stronger after that. But this is due to anecdotal evidence on my part. I do it and the bike runs good. Who's to say why?

....This agrees with another article I read about this that advised repeatedly putting the engine through successive heat cycles. The idea is to increase the speed and load on the engine each cycle. The article above implies that you can do an engine break-in in about a few hours and not very many miles. Certainly goes against conventional wisdom but it does make sense. What is the reason for not using synthetic oil?

....Personally, I think breaking an engine in on the street properly takes more education, planning and concentration than most riders are prepared to spend. It's simply too easy to enjoy the ride rather than following a strict plan. Manufacturers don't help the situation either by playing PYA with their politically correct owner's manual. I believe the other most common mistake riders make is to keep the engine rpm's below a specified limit as opposed to avoiding exceeding that limit for prolonged intervals. The post will no doubt prove informative and beneficial to some of the new FZ1 owners in particular, and create even more constructive debate for others

...Wish I had read that before I broke here in....... My poor baby never went about 7K for the 1st 900 miles.... Damn owner's manual....

....Good info and thanks! Being 1 of the newbies, I have 101 miles on her, what are you saying? I read most of the posts on breakin and also of course the owners manual. So is the general consensus spike the rpm's periodically? I have been trying not to go over 5,000 as per owners manual, but according to the article I should be way up near redline at points. Whats a newbie to do????? Another, maybe stupid question, when I want to get the rpm's up, is it proper just to keep her in a low gear and just bring the rpm's up (2nd gear - 50mph - 5-6000 rpm), that won't hurt the engine will it?? I know it should be brief second or two.

.....I have broke in new bike every different way and have never seen a difference in the performance or longevity of the engine. I just keep it below red line under 1000 miles

.....I've done a full tank under 5K rpms. The mechanic at the shop said it's not that big of a deal on the newer bikes. My next door neighbor (a 26 year rider) says the same thing and now this. I'm supposed to go for a long ride tomorrow and I think I'll finally open her up a bit. Getting passed by cars isn't my norm (even in my Cherokee). No Redlining but at least 9-10K rpms. 

.....This is the only new motor driven machine I have ever owned (how sad is that? . The dealer told me to keep her under 8 grand for the first 600 miles and then have at it. I must say that I followed that advice for the most part but did have fits of uncontrolled throttle twisting (it was just too inviting) but I didn't stay long. I also did the first oil change at about 800 (so it had the regular oil in it first) and now I use the synthetic (although it is the car $hit. The next one will be the cycle $hit.). I hit it a little after 600 but waited until after the oil change to really twist her up. I feel like the thing is broken in well. This would pretty much be in line with this information. Thanks for the peace of mind.

....I've broke in a number of new engines over the years. Bikes I own from new always last longer than people expect. My used bikes are some of the best buys. I'm big on the heat cycle and proper loading ideas. I don't rev to red line during break and wait until the second or third oil change before living up near the top of the RPMs. Lots of oil changes at first. I change oil rather than add. Wish I had access to a dyno!

....So I guess the rumor of "break in an engine like you plan to drive it" holds true huh. Damn the manual!! Should have wheelied it to redline off the lot......

Engine Break-in Procedure

Posted 4/14/01 on:  go this page for the entire article or if the link is broken read most of it below.

A recommended engine break-in procedure.

....The first few hundred miles of a new engine's life have a major impact on how strongly that engine will perform, how much oil it will consume and how long it will last. The main purpose of break-in is to seat the compression rings to the cylinder walls. We are talking about the physical mating of the engine's piston rings to it's corresponding cylinder wall. That is, we want to physically wear the new piston rings into the cylinder wall until a compatible seal between the two is achieved.

....Proper engine break in will produce an engine that achieves maximum power output with the least amount of oil consumption due to the fact
that the piston rings have seated properly to the cylinder wall. When the piston rings are broken in or seated, they do not allow combustion gases to escape the combustion chamber past the piston rings into the crankcase section of the engine. This lack of "blow-by" keeps your engine running cleaner and cooler by preventing hot combustion gases and by-products from entering the crankcase section of the engine. Excessive "blow-by" will cause the crankcase section of the engine to become pressurized and contaminated with combustion gases, which in turn will force normal oil vapors out of the engine's breather, causing the engine to consume excessive amounts of oil.

....In addition to sealing combustion gases in the combustion chamber, piston rings must also manage the amount of oil present on the cylinder walls for lubrication. If the rings do not seat properly, they cannot perform this function and will allow excessive amounts of oil to accumulate on the cylinder wall surfaces. This oil is burned each and every time the cylinder fires. The burning of this oil, coupled with "blow-by" induced engine breathing, are reasons that an engine that hasn't been broken in will consume more than its share of oil.  When a cylinder is new or overhauled the surface of it's walls are honed with abrasive stones to produce a rough surface that will help wear the piston rings in. This roughing up of the surface is known as "cross-hatching". A cylinder wall that has been properly "cross hatched" has a series of minute peaks and valleys cut into its surface. The face or portion of the piston ring that interfaces with the cross hatched cylinder wall is tapered to allow only a small portion of the ring to contact the honed cylinder wall. When the engine is operated, the tapered portion of the face of the piston ring rubs against the coarse surface of the cylinder wall causing wear on both objects.

....Each tiny groove acts as the oil reservoir holding oil up to the top level of the groove where it then spreads over the peak surface. The piston ring must travel up and down over this grooved surface, and must "hydroplane" on the oil film retained by the grooves. Otherwise, the ring would make metal-to-metal contact with the cylinder wall and the cylinder would quickly wear out.

....However the ring will only ride on this film of oil if there is sufficient surface area to support the ring on the oil. When the cylinders are freshly honed the peaks are sharp with little surface area. Our goal when seating the rings on new steel cylinders is to flatten out these peaks to give more surface area to support the rings, while leaving the bottom of the groove intact to hold enough oil to keep the surface of the cylinder wet with oil. At the point where the top of the peaks produced by the honing operation become smooth and the tapered portion of the piston ring wears flat break in has occurred.

....When the engine is operating, a force known as Break Mean Effective Pressure or B.M.E.P is generated within the combustion chamber.
B.M.E.P. is the resultant force produced from the controlled burning of the fuel air mixture that the engine runs on. The higher the power setting the engine is running at, the higher the B.M.E.P. is and conversely as the power setting is lowered the B.M.E.P. becomes less.

....B.M.E.P is an important part of the break in process. When the engine is running, B.M.E.P. is present in the cylinder behind the piston rings and it's force pushes the piston ring outward against the coarse honed cylinder wall. Piston rings are designed to take advantage of the pressure and us it to push the rings out against the cylinder wall. Therefore, as pressure builds during the compression stroke, the rings are pushed harder against the cylinder wall which aids in seating the rings.

....The higher the B.M.E.P, the harder the piston ring is pushed against the wall. The surface temperature at the piston ring face and cylinder wall interface will be greater with high B.M.E.P. than with low B.M.E.P. This is because we are pushing the ring harder against the rough cylinder wall surface causing high amounts of friction and thus heat. The primary deterrent of break in is this heat. Allowing to much heat to build up at the ring to cylinder wall interface will cause the lubricating oil that is present to break down and glaze the cylinder wall surface. This glaze will prevent any further seating of the piston rings. If glazing is allowed to happen break in will never occur. Also, if too little pressure (throttle) is used during the break-in period glazing will also occur.

....Most people seem to operate on the philosophy that they can best get their money's worth from any mechanical device by treating it with great care. This is probably true, but in many cases it is necessary to interpret what great care really means. This is particularly applicable when considering the break-in of a modern, reciprocating engine.

....For those who still think that running the engine hard during break-in falls into the category of cruel and unusual punishment, there is one more argument for using high power loading for short periods (to avoid excessive heat) during the break-in. The use of low power settings does not expand the piston rings enough, and a film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates glazing of the cylinder walls. When this happens, the ring break-in process stops, and excessive oil consumption frequently occurs. The bad news is that extensive glazing can only be corrected by removing the cylinders and re-honing the walls. This is expensive, and it is an expense that can be avoided by proper break in procedures.

....We must achieve a happy medium where we are pushing on the ring hard enough to wear it in but not hard enough to generate enough heat to cause glazing. Once again, if glazing should occur, the only remedy is to remove the effected cylinder, re-hone it and replace the piston rings and start the whole process over again.

Some top motorcycle engine builders response to what they do to ensure peak power output and optimum engine life----

Do not use synthetics----
...."If the wrong type of oil is used initially, or the break-in is too easy, rings and cylinders could (read will) glaze and never seal
properly. A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loading to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but make sure you don't lug or overheat the engine. Use high quality, low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight), no synthetics, too slippery. If synthetics are used during initial break in the rings are sure to glaze over.

The First or Initial Run of the New Engine----
....An engine's initial First Run should be used to bring oil and coolant (air, oil, and/or water) up to operating temperature only, with little or no load, then shut down and allowed to cool to ambient temperature. This is important. After each run the engine needs to completely cool down to ambient temperature.

The Second Run----
....The Second Run: This time give the engine light loads at relatively low rpm and stay out of top gear. Lugging the engine, i.e., low RPM with a lot of throttle (manifold pressure), is more detrimental than high rpm. Another key is too constantly vary engine load during the entire break-in period. A constant load is not ideal for breaking in bearing tolerances. This second run should last only 10-15 minutes before another complete cool down.

The Third Run----
....The third run should see slightly higher rpm with light to medium power loading using short bursts of acceleration to help seat the rings. Again 10-15 minutes of running should do it and again avoid top gear. 

The Forth Run----
....A forth run should consist of light to medium engine loads with a few more bursts of medium-high rpm, and lasting just 10-15 minutes varying the engine load and again avoiding top gear. 

Change the oil after four runs and  50-75 miles----
....Next while the engine is still warm drain the oil and change the filter. This gets out the new metal particles that are being worn away. Most of the metal particles will break away within the first 50 -75 miles. To ensure the rings seat well, use the same high quality non-synthetic oil 

After the first oil change----
....Now do not be shy about short duration high rpm blasts through the lower gears after the oil has been changed.

Some more "break-in sessions"----And maybe check the valves, re-torque the head.
....A few more 15-20 minute sessions should be used to work up to the engine's redline gradually increasing the engine loads. After some definite hard running and 250-500 miles it's a good idea to check the valves. After 500 miles re-torqueing the head is suggested. 

Going to Full Synthetic Oil----
....Switch to synthetic oil but not before 500-1500 miles

....Most of the engine experts warned of the danger of breaking in the engine too easily and ending up with an engine that will always run slow whether it is from tight tolerances, inadequate ring seal or carbon buildup. Engine load is more detrimental than rpm because of the head created internally, so avoid lugging the engine but rev it freely especially in the lower gears

The Ultimate Goal, the Answer!!--
....Basically, be sure not to get it too hot but be sure to seat the rings properly.
....That's it, sure a lot different than keeping under 4000 rpm for 500 miles then under 5000 rpm for 1000 miles. Maybe bike manufacturers are being super cautious at the expense of your motor's performance? They apparently take the cautious route that works over time (1000 miles, or about 20 hours of break in) versus a faster route that can be more easily screwed up."

Another break-in article, from the Triumph view----

...Do not listen to "just run 'er in like you're gonna ride 'er. If you wanna fast bike, then you gotta break it in hard." This is BS.  All you've done is put 50,000 miles of wear on a 1000 mile engine. Our own "intuition" on how an engine should be broken-in is no different. It's all uninformed guessing.

....You are better off leaving the break-in oil in until 600 mile service. After that, change it everyday if you want. Another part of the break-in procedure is heating and cooling cycles. It does no good to the break-in to fill it up with gas and do a 600 mile trip. The pistons need to be heat forged to the bore they ride in. This happens by heating and cooling it often. 

....Proper heat cycling of the engine is really more important than rev range. Many parts in a new engine have internal stresses from manufacturing processes, which are slowly released by heat. If you took a piston out of your 13-year-old Ninja and one from your absolutely brand-spanking-new GSX-R and put both in an oven at 500 degrees Fahrenheit for half an hour, you'd be surprised at the outcome. The 13-year-old scarred and worn-out piston will look like it did when you put it in. The new piston will be warped and completely destroyed. The reason is that heat unlocks the internal stresses and allows the molecules of the metal to rearrange. The same process happens inside the engine during break-in, but the cylinder walls confine the piston. Many heat cycles later, the piston has relaxed and taken on the desired shape inside the cylinder.

....The bottom line---gentle break-in is important for all friction surfaces in the engine. Piston rings, crank and cam bearings also need time to bed in and heat cycling allows clearance tolerances to settle. Also during this process a small amount of metal is collected in the oil from components coming to agreement on what size they are going to be at operation temperature, which is why it's important to change the oil and filter within the first 600-1000 miles on the engine.

....Other items not commonly thought of during break-in but very important for safety are suspension bushing, brakes and tires. The handling characteristics of a new motorcycle will change as these components break in. Proper suspension sag cannot be set until the bushings and shock loosen up with wear, and if you have the will power it's wise to wait until after the first scheduled service before doing any aggressive riding on a new motorcycle.

....You also need to handle the throttle judiciously. Just because you're at a point in the schedule where you can't go over 6,000 RPM does not mean that you can give it full throttle from 3,000 to 6,000 RPM. You create very high combustion pressures that aren't doing the new, unseated rings any good. At the same time, barely cracking the throttle doesn't put enough pressure on the rings to seat them. Hard throttle from low RPM is also hard on the big end, crank and tranny bearings. Don't lug it! The fine points are in the manual. I've broken in every engine by the manufacturers recommendation and yes, it takes up to 15,000 miles until oil consumption stops completely (BMW's), and it doesn't loosen up completely until 25,000 miles, but I plan to keep these bikes well past 25,000 miles. I don't feel like doing a rebuild at 40,000 miles. I like engines where all cylinders pull equal weight. I like getting extremely good gas mileage too. These are just some of the benefits of a properly broken in engine.

....It doesn't hurt to warm the engine up and to avoid redline for the 1st 10 minutes. The cold, thick oil is like a brick wall from the piston rings point of view when it's going 60MPH down the bore. Thick, cold oil + redline under high load = broken piston rings and scored bores and pistons. 

This what MotoMan responded to a direct email question from Uffe from Sweden, 3/2002:

Uffe writes Moto Man:
I read the articles on breaking in procedure but there is one thing that puzzles me.
Does all this really work with a motor that has hard-wearing chrome-composite plated bores (which the FZ1 has)?
MotoMan says "The rough crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a “file” to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly "use up" the roughness"
Is there any rough crosshatch pattern in the FZ1 bores?
If you have any answer I would be more than happy to hear it...

Moto Man responded immediately:
Thanks for your e-mail!
The "break in article" was actually first started as being about the GSXR 750, which has a nikasil bore material.
The "FZ1" uses the same bore material as the R1, and that's where I did most of my break in "research".
What I mean is that you will have no problem with using the instructions of my article, because your new bike has the same material in it's cylinder bore. 
The main idea is to accelerate & decelerate your bike to put a load on the piston rings.
What you said is true..... you can't hone a composite cylinder with a normal honing stone. The cylinders do have a "crosshatch" pattern to provide oil retention, and to wear in the rings, just like the older steel cylinders. The only difference is that the composite cylinders need a special diamond hone.
Sincerely,  Pat McGivern ~MotoMan

April 2002 FZ thread with personal ideas.....What is the proper break-in period for this bike. How many miles before the bike is "broken-in"?? The dealer told me to keep in under 5000 rpm for the first 500 miles - is this going to hurt the long-term max power of the bike?

....I would say I kept mine mostly below 5K before about 600 miles. After that, I steadily built up steam.

Mine was dynoed several times from 800 to 1500 miles. It just kept getting stronger.

My personal opinion is that you do not want to baby it too much, nor beat the crap out of it. Normal riding, saving the redline runs for after at least 600 miles.

....Study this material a little before making your own plan of action. If nothing else, the material will make you feel better about running it like Rabeet indicates and a bit harder than the manual "preaches".

....What is dynoed mean and how can I get this done ? 'Dynoed' Means having the bike tested on a dynomometer to test horse power and torque across the rpm range from near minimum to maximum. It's not a necessary expense but if you have access to (a shop with) a dyno and would like to know what your motor is producing then have at it. Some like to do dyno runs after doing significant motor modifications. ie. Pipes, jet kits, cams and carbs, to name a few, to see exactly what their blood, sweat and tears bought them.
For others the 'Butt dyno' is sufficient. Like me.
If anyone asks I can give a pretty good ball park estimate.
Enough so that it usually makes the not so familiar say, "yikes."
Hang around here and your knowledge and experience will grow exponentially. Wooooooooohooooooooooooo!!!!!!

....FRYDMAN...There's many discussions re; this topic.
take time and peruse the back posts.(hope you have DSL)
The disagreement has always been ; ride it like you're going to ride!! Versus; following the manual,and not
exceeding 5K for any lengh of time,until 500 miles.
Then, under 6K till 1000 miles.

........Keep it under 5 grand for the first 500 miles, and you won't get the piston rings to seat as well as you would if you do heat cycles, and use progessive engine loading. The manual break-in at best is a conservative way not to screw your bike up. High rpm runs won't hurt the bike, long trips, constant rpm's, and lugging the engine (and not loading it enough) are more harmful.

....I agree with most of the opinions experssed here, but a key point seems to be left out.
When you break in a new motor, one of the things you are doing is mating moving parts with the other parts around them. This is the key element of this process. Doing so has the side effect of producing small metalic particles that end up floating around in the oil. This is not a detrimental thing, and is part of the normal break-in process. This is also why the first oil change interval is so short. The oil drained out of your bike after the break-in is so full of metal that it sparkels like the metalflake in your paint job. Now, many people will tell you that this abrasive stuff never gets to your main bearings because the filter stops it. Baloney! that oil filter has a minimum particle size and anything smaller than that goes right thru. I don't know about you guys, but I don't see any way at all that full throttle at redline with these abrasives in your oil could be good for anything. The idea that the guys at yamaha are idiots and know nothing at all so their advice should be ignored baffles me. Be jentle for the first 500 miles- keep the tach down and don't use more than half throttle. change that oil and filter and let that bad wamma-jamma run like it wants to. you will be glad you did!!!

....right on frank,my best friend works for the dealer i do business with,5 star dealer,here's what he say,(what i've done for at least 15 year's,,) yes,baby it for the first 500,or so, change the oil & filter,continue to baby,under 6500!!till 1000-1200,change the oil & filter again, BUT,install the new k & n --he say's it's the BESTon the market,run her any way you ride till 2100-2300 miles , & change the oil & filter again(again use the k&n, it's worth the extra money, & also has increased oil flow!!!--hence 1 aaa. H.P.)& after,2300, you might want to spend the extra money & go synthetic,the castrol r4 superbike or the "new mobilmx4t" there the BEST!!,sorry spectro & yamalube...also,change your oil every 6 months or 1500 miles,& filter every other, --depending on the miles you rack-up, and if the bike sits,-like winter blues,CHANGE IT, NO MATTER THE MILES,time here is the key, shop biolegist says::when oil sits,it accually build's up some sort of acid that break's down the oil some-how,& can cause premature engine wear, spend a little on oil, save thouisand's on repair, not that he mind's,he accually just got a silver fz1 in , motor burnt up, bad piston,low oil, owner did'nt check it,sometimes they use a little,it's a shame,only 435 miles.....weep,weep,



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