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Contents:

• DIY stand #1
   

• DIY stand #2
   

• DIY canopy
   

• DIY VHO lighting - coming soon
   

• DIY refugium - coming soon
   

• DIY durso stand pipe
   

• DIY water filter - coming soon
   

• DIY water spray bar

DIY Stand # 1

This was the first stand I built. However, even before it was completed, my mother stopped by and saw it, and decided she liked it so much she wanted it for herself! So I had to start all over and build a second stand for myself! The tank on this stand is my mothers, and is a freshwater tank with 4 species of freshwater sharks, a school of 10 tiger barbs, and a few rose tetras.

To build this stand I used 1x6x4 pine for the top and bottom runners. I used 1x4x3 pine for the legs, and strapping braces. I used 3/4 plywood for the top shelf. 1/4 plywood for the bottom shelf. 1/8 plywood for the sides. and stained the whole unit in antique maple. I used 2 inch tapered molding for the top of the stand and 1 inch tapered molding around the doors. Doors were fitted with wooden knobs, stained to match, and internal cabinet closer assemblies to hold the doors shut. Brass hinges were used to prevent rusting.

When the stand was completed and placed in the house, with the tank on top, I discovered that the top shelf of the stand was uneven by about 1/16 of an inch. the center brace was just slightly higher than the outside braces. so I purchased some 1/4" Styrofoam sheeting and cut it to match the tan footprint. the Styrofoam will absorb imperfections in the wood and prevent the tank from bending or cracking.

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DIY Stand # 2

since this was the second stand, I took the opportunity to make some slight design changes. this model was built the same way, using the same wood. however, on this model, the side panels are installed from the outside instead of from the inside. this will allow easy removal should it ever be necessary in the future for a larger sized sump or refugium. the doors were also made slightly different using a different type of molding. the most important design changes was the use of 1x4 all the way around and eliminating the 1x6 runners. however, to increase strength, I placed 3x3 supports in each corner, behind the 1x4's and also in the center. the stand was stained the same color. and again, as with the first tank, I had an uneven top, so I used the left over Styrofoam from the first stand, to be sure I had a good level surface for the tank.

The stands were both built to be able to accommodate a 75 gallon reef ready tank. so the dimensions are : 48" wide 36" high and 24" deep. I made them higher than standard stands to allow for more room underneath and to give a better viewing height for the tanks.

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Canopy

This is a very basic canopy. It has an open back and was constructed from a 1x2 pine frame and skinned with 3/16" plywood/Luanne. I installed two 46.5" VHO Uri super actinic white's and since the completion, have also added one NO actinic blue bulb and one NO 10k daylight bulb. I went the cheap route and instead of buying a reflector, I simply sprayed the inside of the canopy with Elmer's spray adhesive and covered with aluminum foil. it seems to be working rather fine a lot of light is reaching the tank. but when I upgrade to a larger tank, I intend to purchase two metal halide bulbs as well, and will then install a polished aluminum reflector.

The doors are made from 1/2" pine and are hinged with brass hinges the same as used on the stand. The canopy was then stained with the same stain as the stand, for a nice match. soon I'll get both covered in a few coats of polyurethane. All the ballasts and switches are installed in the stand. I'll get a pic of that when I add the VHO lighting section.

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Durso Standpipe

The idea for this standpipe is actually a combination of designs borrowed from Richard Durso, the inventor of the Durso standpipe, and Ken Stockman, who created this modified version for use in a smaller overflow box, where space is at a premium. If you use an external overflow box you'll know that the sound of air entering the drainpipe, can be quite annoying. the durso standpipe, puts a stop to that! all that's needed is about a 6-8" piece of 1" pvc pipe (depending on how big your overflow box is) a 2" to 1" reducer bushing. a 2" coupler. and a 1" end cap. in my pipe, I also purchased a 1" female adapter to replace the one that came with my overflow, because it already had a piece of pvc approximately 3" long. my total bill at Lowes for all 5 pieces was $4.30! And it actually came with a 5' length of pvc, because it was the shortest they sold.

Building and installing is quite simple. drill several holes in the pvc pipe for water drainage. be sure to make them close enough together, that they will be covered by the couple. next, you'll need to trim the inside lip of the reducer, so that the pvc can slide all the way through it. slide it on so that it begins at the top of your drilled holes. you'll want at least 1" or more of pipe sticking out the top, for the end cap to be placed over. next slide on the couple and press it into place on the reducer. place the end cap over the top. if you are adding a female adapter, go ahead and press that into place as well. now drill a small hole ( 1/8" ) through the end cap and the pvc pipe. having the hole through both, will allow you to adjust the size of the hole by simply turning the end cap, rather than drilling a lager hole, or more holes. (for my unit my pump was pushing too much flow, so I connected my holes and made 4 rectangles in the pvc to accept the higher water flow. install the unit into the overflow box, and turn on your pump. to quote a member of TheReefTank, "it turned my waterfall into a stream!"

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Water Spray Bar

my tank is 55 gallon long. which means I only have 13" of clearance from front to back. this sort of forced me to have to stack my live rock against the back wall of the tank. my only concern with this was that it would be near impossible to get the glass or gravel cleaned behind the rock.

while browsing Shirley's website I noticed she had a length of pvc in the bottom of her tank with holes drilled in it for circulation. so I expanded a little on the idea and this is what I came up with.

I used 3/4" pvc. tubing. I bought a 5' length and cut two pieces about 20" long each. I then cut a top piece that is about 10" long. I tied them all together with a 3/4" T fitting. the side pieces are capped with 3/4" end caps. using a ruler, I marked off every 1 inch and drilled 1/8" holes along the front of the pvc. these holes will spray water across and through the rock, preventing any waste buildup behind the rock or in the substrate. I then marked off every 1" along the top of the same bars, so that there is also water spraying straight up along the back of the tank, and again, through the rock. this hopefully will help to keep the glass somewhat clean back there. the vertical pvc pipe is topped off with a Hagan 402 power head, with a rated output of 300 gph. I used this ph because it can be run in reverse, so it shoots water down to the bottom. the ph rests on the pvc, and I also installed the suction cup bracket to keep it against the back of the tank. but the pvc is supporting the weight. the rock is then stacked in front of the pvc, so it hides it all fairly well. (note: the photos only show half of my rock, once the offer half arrives, it will completely cover the pvc all the way to the base of the power head, as I plan to stack in a pyramid fashion)

the only modification I plan to make is to rig a brace and adapter, so that I can turn the power head over and run in it normal fashion. apparently running it in reverse is fine, but it reduces the output flow by about 1/3 - 1/2. not to mention the reduction in output caused by the head and pvc itself. I'll post pics once the modification has been completed.

total cost of the project was approximately $3.50 plus the cost of the power head as I didn't have one. I picked up the 402, on sale from 35 down to 20 bucks.
here is the modification I made. I turned the power head on it's side. and had to use two different tubing sizes to get it mounted in the 3/4" pvc. first I inserted a 3" long piece of 5/8" tubing, then slipped a 2" piece of 3/4" tubing over that.

the 3/4 was too big to fit on the output nozzle. and the 5/8" was too small to fit in the 3/4 pvc but combining the two, gave me a good snug fit. I only made the 5/8 piece longer, to give some extra support.

I then used the suction cup bracket on the back of the ph to stick to the glass. however, this made the ph stick out a bit from the tank wall. so I placed the bottom of the spray bar flush with he back wall, and the vertical pipe runs up and out at an angle. I then rotated the output nozzle till it matched up. so between the vertical pipe and the suction cups, I don't think the ph is going anywhere!