MAINE “The Pine Tree State”
Governor's Restaurant, 742 Stillwater Ave., Old Town, ME (207) 827-4277
The Governor’s was the first in a Maine chain of homestyle cookin’ restaurants. Whenever Angie and I would miss our grandmothers’ cooking, we’d head here. The Governor’s has Maine’s best French Fries, made from Maine potatoes grown in Aroostock County. This county comprises all of Northern Maine, and is so big, it is simply called “The County.” I recommend the “Mountain of Meatloaf” and the burgers, each named after a Maine governor.
Pat's Pizza, 11 Mill St., Orono, ME (207) 866-2111
The bar is old, the booths are old, the people in the booths are old--this place has been here awhile. The pizza is always fresh though, and the best you can find in this (literal) neck of the woods. Order the pizza, but if you want a treat, order the chicken & broccoli calzone. You will not be hungry for a long time.
Bugaboo Creek Steak House, 24 Bangor Mall Blvd., Bangor, ME (207) 945-5515
It’s one of a chain of restaurants running throughout the NE US, but while The Outback Steakhouse does Australia, Bugaboo does the Canadian Rockies. This place has talking moose, singing buffalo, jumping raccoons, and flopping fish, all mounted, and all mechanical, which make a visit worth it. Beyond the entertainment, the food is great. Try the mustard-grilled shrimp on toast and a salad with raspberry vinaigrette dressing. The prime rib never disappoints, either. I secretly went for the animals though.
Buen Apetito, 242 Main St., Waterville, ME (207) 861-4649
There is a sad lack of edible Mexican food in the state of Maine, but just off I-95, there is a s ray of hope: Buen Apetito. Their chimichangas are great, as are their burritos. Everything is authentic, right down to the homemade tortilla chips and salsa. Whenever Angie would need a break from Orono, she’d come to Waterville with me. After I’d finish teaching at Colby College, we’d head here for good food.
Tugboat Inn & Restaurant, 80 Commercial St., Boothbay Harbor, ME (207) 633-4434
When my mom, Jan, visited Angie and I, we took her along the Atlantic Seaboard from Maine to NYC and back. On Mother’s Day, we made it as far as Boothbay Harbor. On advice from one of my students, we took my mom here for a lobster lunch. The restaurant is in a converted tug, and serves great lobster. Wear the bib--it’s messy!
Fuji Restaurant, 29 Exchange St., Portland, ME (207) 773-2900
Though not as big as the mountain, this restaurant along Portland’s wharf is majestic in a state that has few ethnic food choices. The sushi chefs greet you with a shout when you enter, and the menu is extensive for both sushi and other items. In true Japanese fashion, the daily special is set out in all its plastic glory near the front door, so you can know what you’ll be eating. I recommend the Katsudon: a huge bowl of rice, smothered in a thick beef/onion broth, topped with a breaded, deep-fried pork cutlet. Oishi des ne (it’s delicious)!
MASSACHUSETTS “The Bay State”
Bertucci's Brick Oven Pizzeria, 475 Winter St., Waltham, MA (781) 684-0650
This restaurant is part of a chain throughout the NE, and it’s very good! It looks like any other Italian restaurant, but the taste makes the difference. Try the foccacia bread with marinara--it’s so good, you’ll forget what your entree was. Actually, mine was pizza, which was okay. But try the bread--I’m not kidding!
Cheers, 5 Faneuil Hall Market Pl., Boston, MA (617) 742-9894
“Where nobody knows your name” because it is so crowded with tourists that no regulars can see each other--but if you want to see the inspiration for the TV show, here it is. The thick burgers are good with a Sam Adams (which, in my opinion, only tastes good in Boston), and the memorabilia is plentiful. Ask yourself, is it possible to ever see enough of Ted Danson? If the answer is no, give it a visit.
Museum Of Fine Arts Restaurant, 465 Huntington Ave., Boston, MA (617) 266-3663
Most of the restaurants (cafes) in museums are overpriced and stuffy, and the MFA’s is no exception. In the summer of 1999, however, Angie and I were too hot and tired to leave the museum for lunch, so we stopped in to take our chances. We were happy we did! Try the cold cucumber soup for a taste treat. The museum is well worth it as well.
The House of Blues in Cambridge, MA, fall 1999,
photo by Meredith Brooks
CONNECTICUT “The Constitution State”
Mystic Pizza, 56 W Main St., Mystic, CT (860) 536-3700
If you can make it past the “Shrine to Julia Roberts” feel of the decor (approximately 3/4 of the movie memorabilia focuses on her), you are in for a magical pizza experience. This place earned a movie to feature it--try the chicken, artichoke, and pepperocini pizza and see what I mean. Angie and I take everyone we know here (my mom, Angie’s sister Amy, and our friends Phil and Colleen). If you’re with us on I-95 in East Connecticut--we’re going!
NEW YORK “The Empire State”
Golden Unicorn Restaurant Inc., 18 E Broadway, New York, NY (212) 941-0911
Take the elevator to the second floor, step off, and enter dim sum heaven! As many as 15 carts are wheeled by your table, containing everything from shrimp shumai to fried rice to hot & sour soup, and each item is delicious. In a city with a million restaurants, Angie and I have gone twice (if that tells you anything). It’s hard to find, but worth the effort--trust me.
Panna II Garden Indian Restaurant, 93 1st Ave. # 5, New York, NY (212) 598-4610
People wait outside for their turn to sit at one of the maybe twelve tables in this tiny place. Once they make it inside, they are greeted by smiles reflected in the mirrored, tinseled, and Christmas-lit decor. Sound interesting? It is! This may be the best Indian food I’ve ever eaten. Try anything--it will be good! This is another place Angie & I take everyone we know. If you want to see the interior without traveling to NYC, rent the movie 200 Cigarettes--you can’t miss the restaurant. Unfortunately, you can’t taste the movie, so a trip is in order!
WASHINGTON, D.C.
Alero Mexican Restaurant, 3500 Connecticut Ave. N.W., Washington, D.C. (202) 966-2530
After a hot, exhausting day at the National Zoo, and a hot, exhausting few days wandering through everything the nation’s capitol has to offer, we were hungry. We stopped here, and, man, were we happy we did. The food tasted like good Mexican food on the West Coast--fresh, light, and delicious! Try the shrimp quesadillas with a Corona and a side of air conditioning! You can’t beat that in the D.C. humidity.
Amy & Angie in D.C., summer 2000
MISSISSIPPI “The Magnolia State”
Waffle House, 1204 Highway 45 N, Columbus, MS (662) 328-1408
From Texas to DC, from Florida to Colorado, you can find a Waffle House along most any Interstate. The food is pure Americana: pecan waffles, steaks, chops, grits, eggs, and hashbrowns--scattered, smothered, covered, chunked, topped, and diced--you name it! The coffee is hot and the decor is yellow. My favorite is in Columbus, where you’ll find the nicest waitress, named “Smiley,” no less. I love this place--it alone is worth a trip to the South.
El Sombrero Mexican Restaurant, 111 Eckford Dr., Starkville, MS (662) 324-1309
Known to regulars as “The Hat,” El Sombrero is the only good Mexican food in NE MS. The cooks are fond of white American cheese on everything, and lots of beef. The chips and salsa are good, and, as an extra bonus, if you’re lucky, the waiters will hit on you over a sizzling fajita platter. Just the food, my friend!
The Cotton District Grill, 106 Maxwell St., Starkville, MS (662) 323-6062
The “Grill” serves cold beer and hot cheese sticks. These aren’t really “sticks,” they’re actually logs! Three huge pieces of deep-fried cheese (one mozzarella, one sausage, one Pepper Jack) with dipping sauce, and you’re set. My old roommate, Dean, used to order these and a beer, and say, “I’m priming the pump!” Eat cheese, ya’ll!
Pap’s Place, E St., Ackerman, MS (601) 285-6352
This is a country buffet like no other! The floor’s lopsided, the chairs don’t match, and there’s no Pap--but his widow is keeping the dream alive. She serves battered catfish, fried chicken, macaroni & cheese, mashed potatoes, corn on the cob, cornbread, and more. All-you-can-eat! If you’re polite, like another of my old roommates, Carl, you can wind up with the widow’s autograph on a napkin. Like she says in her TV ad, “Come on down to Pap’s Place!”
MISSOURI “The Show-Me State”
Arthur Bryant's Barbeque, 1727 Brooklyn Ave., Kansas City, MO (816) 231-1123
This place is a legend amongst legendary bar-b-que joints in Kansas City. You can smell the food blocks away, just as Angie, her sister Amy, and I did following an afternoon at The Nelson-Adkins Museum (which I highly recommend).
Angie & Amy on the grounds of the Museum, summer 2000
We walked in, and our mouths started watering. You yell your order over the counter, and someone back there, sweating from the heat of the fire which is roasting pork, beef, and chicken, grabs two pieces of white bread, dips his hand into a tub of pork (in my case), slaps a huge handful on the bread, then slams the second piece on top to complete the sandwich. Don’t be confused by the way this sounds (usually, bread + meat = nothing impressive)--this is a giant, delicious sandwich! A handful of chips and a side of pickles and you’re set! Add your own sauce at the table, and use 20-30 napkins, which are also on the table. Wash it all down with a giant red cream soda and enjoy! If you glance up at the walls, you can see a picture of Jimmy and Rosalyn Carter doing exactly what you’re doing--getting full!
Amy & Angie under the "Gateway to the West" in St. Louis, MO, summer 2000
SOUTH DAKOTA “The Sunshine State”
Wall Drug Store, 510 Main St., Wall, SD (605) 279-2175
Sure, you can see the Badlands. You can see the Black Hills. You can even see Mt. Rushmore. But you need ice water--free ice water--at Wall Drug. This is how the once-small drug store became famous--giving away free ice water on one of the most barren stretches of road in one of the hottest states in the Union. Now, it is a virtual amusement park on the plains--part history lesson, part fun (or both, depending on your take), and good, hearty food in the middle of nowhere. Pick up a free bumper sticker, take your picture with it anywhere in the world, and the good folks at Wall Drug will put that picture on their wall! It’s your chance to become famous for much longer than fifteen minutes (judging by the age of some of those pictures)!
TEXAS “The Lone Star State”
Big Texan Steak Ranch, 7701 East Interstate 40, Amarillo, Texas (806) 372-6000
After driving from Eastern Oklahoma that morning, I stopped in Amarillo, needing some rest and food. I pitched my tent in an RV park (cheaper and with nicer amenities for the long-haul camper) while I listened to radio reports of a coming thunderstorm with a 90% chance of tornadoes. Thinking that this dinner could be my last meal, I drove along a road in the dark, hoping for something good. I found the Big Texan. I walked in and felt right at home. Unbeknownst to me, this was the place I had seen countless times on TV, famous for its steak eating contest. They serve you a huge steak, and you have one hour to eat it. If you can do it, the steak’s free; if not, it’s upwards of $50! I passed on the contest, instead ordering what turned out to be the best chicken-fried streak with smashed potatoes I have ever eaten. It too was so large, I couldn’t finish everything on my plate, even though I tried my best. I rolled over to the gift shop, too dazed to drive, and saw the winner of the “Largest Rattlesnake in Texas” contest. This snake was about twelve feet long, with a head the size of my fist! It was stretched out (alive, no less!) in a square glass case behind the cashier. This case, however, was in the middle of the cashier’s area, so no matter where the cashier was, the snake was behind her! Talk about job pressure. I was happy to take my chances with the tornadoes, which did come, later that night.
Amy, Angie, and Ryan at the Grand Canyon/Two views of the Navajo Reservation in Arizona, summer 2000
Two views of the Rockies, somewhere in the SW, summer 2000
NEVADA “The Silver State”
The Pharaoh's Pheast Buffet at the Luxor Hotel & Casino, 3900 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas, NV (702) 262-4000
I had always been opposed to the idea of visiting Las Vegas because it always sounded trashy to me--huge neon altars to the god of gambling; trashy floor shows, legalized prostitution, and Mickey Gilley; and retired folks praying, praying, praying for the big payoff, but losing their retirement funds as the only indication that some greater power controls all of our destinies. I have to admit though, it was pretty fun. These things (and worse) exist, don’t get me wrong, but they can be easily avoided and you can have a fun time. On our cross-country trip, Angie, her sister Amy, and I stayed at The Luxor for two nights and had a great time. The Egyptian theme of The Luxor is well done--come for the inclinator (it has to be to scale the inside of a pyramid), the thrill of gambling with small change collected over the years, and the five enormous pools, but stay for the buffet! This is one of the largest and best in Vegas! Try the prime rib--you’ll go back for thirds! Then walk your dinner off, becoming a bit dazzled by the neon spectacle of it all, in the remarkably mellow Las Vegas night air.
OREGON “The Beaver State”
A huge carved (with a chainsaw?) bear on top of a store somewhere in Central Oregon, summer 1998
Tam's Garden, 4111 SE Hawthorne Blvd., Portland, OR (503) 232-5428
Angie & I are on an international quest for the best bowl of hot & sour soup we can find, and the winner (so far) is Tam’s Garden. The vinegar knocks you down, and the pepper knocks you out. With the thin strips of fried pork, bamboo, and egg, it’s a TKO!
Tao of Tea, 3430 SE Belmont St., Portland, OR (503) 736-0119
This peaceful cafe dedicated to tea is a wonderful place to unwind. Its extensive tea menu, including more teas more creatively named than you have probably ever imagined, is complimented by their Nan and Paratha choices. Relaxing music and the soft trickle of water in small fountains seem to make the mochi-covered mango ice cream balls taste even better than they already sound.
Esparza's Tex Mex Cafe, 2725 SE Ankeny St., Portland, OR (503) 234-7909
Near the Laurelhurst Theater sits this small, crowded restaurant, as full of eclectic decoration as people. Wait for a table--it’s worth it. The restaurant’s use of alternative meat is refreshing; try the ostrich (the lowest fat content of any meat) or buffalo in many excellent dishes. You can even try the rattlesnake, although the menu warns you it’s bony! The recipes are original and spicy and wonderful.
King Burrito, 2924 N Lombard, Portland, OR (503) 283-9757
This is the home of authentic Mexican food. Huge bowls of Menudo vie for table space next to huge burritos (“King” is no joke), tacos, and chips & salsa. Eat in or take it out, it’s all excellent! Try the salsa verde on your food, and wash it down with a Jarritos, in a real-glass bottle, in almost any flavor you can imagine.
Carnival Restaurant, 2805 SW Sam Jackson Park Rd., Portland, OR (503) 227-4244
Just below OHSU, at the base of the West Hills, sits one of the best hamburger joints in town. You order a burger, watch it cook per your request, then top it with everything you choose from the take-as-much-as-you-want condiment bar. I recommend the biggest burger and a peanut butter milkshake. The circus motif is well done, just like my burgers!
Skyline Restaurant, 1313 NW Skyline Blvd., Portland, OR (503) 292-6727
My family has been driving into the West Hills for hamburgers for years; my grandmother ate here, my mother ate here, and I still eat here. The Smokey Burger, onion rings, and a lime milkshake cannot be beaten for flavor! Drive up W. Burnside, take a right onto Skyline Blvd., and follow the winding pavement for a ways. Hang in there, you’re not lost--just keep following the road to burger heaven!
Lighthouse Brewpub, 4157 N. Hwy. 101, Suite 117, Lincoln City, OR (541) 994-7238
At the north end of the city sits an outpost of the McMenamin’s Empire. It’s small, but it’s my favorite, maybe because it is at the beach. These brewpubs make fine beer brewed from local ingredients. Ruby Ale, made with raspberries, is a year-round favorite, but others appear in the warmer months: blueberry, Marion berry, blackberry, guava, and once, I’m not kidding, banana-cherry ale. Beyond their beer is the amazing selection of burgers. Try the Captain Neon--blue cheese and bacon--with a basket of fries, dipped in mustard or malt vinegar. Delicious!
ALASKA “The Last Frontier”
Alaskan Hotel & Bar, P 484, Cordova, AK (907) 424-3388
At the edge of Prince William Sound, where the mountains meet the sea, rests the tiny town of Cordova. In this town, there are many fish canning plants, a supermarket, a laundromat, and a couple of hotels, the Alaskan Hotel & Bar being one of them. While I was in Alaska, packing Salmon roe in the summer of 1994, on two of the rare nights all the fish packers had off, we all trudged up the hill to eat and drink at the Alaskan. There was hot food, cheap beer, and live music. The band was a local favorite, and the checker from the market was called up from her table to sing “Mustang Sally.“ She was so well-received that she was called up for an encore at the end of the second set. I know that I drank Heineken because it was the cheapest canned beer served, but I can’t really recall what I ate. After a few weeks of eighteen-hour days (eating two meals, sleeping, and trying to clean up fall into the six hours you have off), your taste buds don’t really function properly, but I do remember that my belly was full and I went home happy.
