This is informational only, Brought to you by http://www.BeyondWeird.com DO NOT USE THIS INFO FOR ANY ILLEGAL ACTIVITIES OR YOU MAY GO TO JAIL.
ANARCHY COOKBOOK VERSION 2000 - 2001 - 2002 - 2003
Pictures and Reformatting for Word6 by Louis Helm
Table of Contents
1. Counterfeiting Money
2. Credit Card Fraud
3. Making Plastic Explosives
4. Picking Master Locks
5. The Arts of Lockpicking I
6. The Arts of Lockpicking II
7. Solidox Bombs
8. High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox
9. CO² Bombs
10. Thermite II Bombs
11. Touch Explosives
12. Letter Bombs
13. Paint Bombs
14. Ways to send a car to HELL
15. Do you hate school?
16. Phone related vandalism
17. Highway police radar jamming
18. Smoke Bombs
19. Mail Box Bombs
20. Hot-wiring cars
21. Napalm
22. Fertilizer Bomb
23. Tennis Ball Bomb
24. Diskette Bombs
25. Unlisted Phone Numbers
26. Fuses
27. How to make Potassium Nitrate
28. Exploding Lightbulbs
29. Under water igniters
30. Home-brew blast cannon
31. Chemical Equivalency List
32. Phone Taps
33. Landmines
34. A different Molitov Cocktail
35. Phone Systems Tutorial I
36. Phone Systems Tutorial II
37. Basic Alliance Teleconferencing
38. Aqua Box Plans
39. Hindenberg Bomb
40. How to Kill Someone
41. Phone Systems Tutorial III
42. Black Box Plans
43. The Blotto Box
44. Blowgun
45. Brown Box Plans
46. Calcium Carbide Bomb
47. More Ways to Send a Car to Hell
48. Ripping off Change Machines
49. Clear Box Plans
50. CNA Number Listing
51. Electronic Terrorism
52. Start a Conf. w/o 2600hz or MF
53. Dynamite
54. Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower
55. How to Break into BBs Express
56. Firebomb
57. Fuse Bomb
58. Generic Bomb
59. Green Box Plans
60. Portable Grenade Launcher
61. Basic Hacking Tutorial I
62. Basic Hacking Tutorial II
63. Hacking DEC's
64. Harmless Bombs
65. Breaking into Houses
66. Hypnotism
67. Remote Informer Issue #1
68. Jackpotting ATM Machines
69. Jug Bomb
70. Fun at K-Mart
71. Mace Substitute
72. How to Grow Marijuana
73. Match Head Bomb
74. Terrorizing McDonalds
75. "Mentor's" Last Words
76. The Myth of the 2600hz Detector
77. Blue Box Plans
78. Napalm II
79. Nitroglycerin Recipe
80. Operation: Fuckup
81. Stealing Calls from Payphones
82. Pool Fun
83. Free Postage
84. Unstable Explosives
85. Weird Drugs
86. The Art of Carding
87. Recognizing Credit Cards
88. How to Get a New Identity
89. Remote Informer Issue #2
90. Remote Informer Issue #3
91. Remote Informer Issue #4
92. Remote Informer Issue #5
93. Phreaker's Guide to Loop Lines
94. Ma-Bell Tutorial
95. Getting Money out of Pay Phones
96. Computer-based PBX
97. PC-Pursuit Port Statistics
98. Pearl Box Plans
99. The Phreak File
100. Red Box Plans
101. RemObS
102. Scarlet Box Plans
103. Silver Box Plans
104. Bell Trashing
105. Canadian WATS Phonebook
106. Hacking TRW
107. Hacking VAX & UNIX
108. Verification Circuits
109. White Box Plans
110. The BLAST Box
111. Dealing with the R&R Operator
112. Cellular Phone Phreaking
113. Cheesebox Plans
114. Start Your Own Conferences
115. Gold Box Plans
116. The History of ESS
117. The Lunch Box
118. Olive Box Plans
119. The Tron Box
120. More TRW Info
121. "Phreaker's Phunhouse"
122. Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 27
123. Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 27
124. Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 28
125. Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 28
126. Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 28
127. Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 30
128. Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 30
129. Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 30
130. Sodium Chlorate
131. Mercury Fulminate
132. Improvised Black Powder
133. Nitric Acid
134. Dust Bomb Instructions
135. Carbon-Tet Explosive
136. Making Picric Acid from Aspirin
137. Reclamation of RDX from C-4
138. Egg-based Gelled Flame Fuels
139. Clothespin Switch
140. Flexible Plate Switch
141. Low Signature System [Silencers]
142. Delay Igniter From Cigarette
143. Nicotine
144. Dried Seed Timer
145. Nail Grenade
146. Bell Glossary
147. Phone Dial Locks -- Beat'em
148. Exchange Scanning
149. A Short History of Phreaking
150. "Secrets of the Little Blue Box"
151. The History of British Phreaking
152. "Bad as Shit"
153. Telenet
154. Fucking with the Operator
155. Phrack Magazine-Vol. 1, Issue 1
156. International Country Codes List
157. Infinity Transmitter Plans
158. LSD
159. Bananas
160. Yummy Marihuana Recipes
161. Peanuts
162. Chemical Fire Bottle
163. Igniter from Book Matches
164. "Red or White Powder" Propellant
165. Pipe Hand Grenade
166. European Credit Card Fraud
167. Potassium Bomb
168. Your Legal Rights
169. Juvenile Offenders' Rights
170. Down The Road Missle
171. Fun With Shotgun Shells
172. Surveillance Equipment
173. Drip Timer
174. Stealing
175. Miscellaneous
176. Shaving cream bomb
177. Ripping off change machines II
178. Lockpicking the EASY way
179. Anarchy 'N' Explosives Prelude
180. Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 1
181. Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 2
182. Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 3
183. Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 4
184. Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 5
185. Explosives and Propellants
186. Lockpicking III
187. Chemical Equivalent List II
188. Nitroglycerin II
189. Cellulose Nitrate
190. Starter Explosives
191. Flash Powder
192. Exploding Pens
193. Revised Pipe Bombs
194. * SAFETY * A MUST READ!
195. Ammonium TriIodide
196. Sulfuric Acid & Amm. Nitrate III
197. Black Powder III
198. Nitrocellulose
199. RDX
200. The Black Gate BBS
201. ANFOS
202. Picric Acid II
203. Bottled Explosives
204. Dry Ice
205. Fuses / Ignitors / Delays
206. Film Canister Bombs
207. Book Bombs
208. Phone Bombs
209. Special Ammunition
210. Rocketry
211. Pipe Cannon II
212. Smoke Bombs
213. Firecrackers
214. Suppliers II
215. Lab-Raid Checklist
216. Misc Anarchy
217. Combo Locks II
218. Misc Anarchy II
219. Thermite IV
1. Counterfeiting Money by The Jolly Roger
Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a book on photo offset printing, for this is the method used in counterfeiting US currency. If you are familiar with this method of printing, counterfeiting should be a simple task for you.
Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure", which involves etching a metal block. Since etching a metal block is impossible to do by hand, photo offset printing comes into the process.
Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency with a camera, and putting the negatives on a piece of masking material (usually orange in color). The stripped negatives, commonly called "flats", are then exposed to a lithographic plate with an arc light plate maker. The burned plates are then developed with the proper developing chemical. One at a time, these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press.
The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset, such as the AB Dick 360. Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill, and 1 of the back side. After developing them and letting them dry, take them to a light table. Using opaque on one of the portrait sides, touch out all the green, which is the seal and the serial numbers. The back side does not require any retouching, because it is all
one color. Now, make sure all of the negatives are registered (lined up correctly) on the flats. By the way, every time you need another serial number, shoot 1 negative of the portrait side, cut out the serial number, and remove the old serial number from the flat replacing it with the new one.
Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a different color: black, and 2 shades of green (the two shades of green are created by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates. Take a lithographic plate and etch three marks on it. These marks must be 2 and 9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short edges. Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then, take 1 of the flats and place it on the plate, exactly lining the short edge up with the edge of the plate. Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and cover up the exposed area you have already burned. Burn that, and do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat up one more mark. Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate plate). Develop all three plates. You should now have 4 images on each plate with an equal space between each bill.
The paper you will need will not match exactly, but it will do for most situations. The paper to use should have a 25% rag content. By the way, Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does the job well. Take the paper and load it into the press. Be sure to set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right. Start with the black plate (the plate without the serial numbers). Wrap it around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more than you need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while that is printing, mix the inks for the serial numbers and the back side. You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the serial number ink. You also need to add black to the back side. Experiment until you get it right. Now, clean the press and print the other side. You will now have a bill with no green seal or serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number, make another and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many different numbers as you want. Then cut the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter. You should have printed a large amount of money by now, but there is still one problem; the paper is pure white. To dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups of hot water, 4 tea bags, and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment with this). Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine US bill. Make the necessary adjustments, and dye all the bills. Also, it is a good idea to make them look used. For example, wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc.
As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset printing, most of the information in this article will be fairly hard to understand. Along with getting a book on photo offset printing, try to see the movie "To Live and Die in LA". It is about a counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good job of showing how to counterfeit. A good book on the subject is "The Poor Man's James Bond".
If all of this seems too complicated to you, there is one other method available for counterfeiting: The Canon color laser copier. The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color, including US currency. But, once again, the main problem in counterfeiting is the paper used. So, experiment, and good luck!
2. Credit Card Fraud by The Jolly Roger
For most of you out there, money is hard to come by. Until now:
With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have always desired in life. The stakes are high, but the payoff is worth it.
Step One: Getting the credit card information
First off, you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit card number. The best way to get credit card numbers is to take the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local department store. These can usually be found in the garbage can next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage dumpster behind the store. But, due to the large amount of credit card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction sheet, making things much more difficult. This is where your phone comes in handy.
First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much information as possible about them. Then, during business hours, call in a very convincing voice - "Hello, this is John Doe from the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department. We have been informed that your credit card may have been used for fraudulent purposes, so will you please read off the numbers appearing on your Visa card for verification." Of course, use your imagination! Believe it or not, many people will fall for this ploy and give out their credit information.
Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you should be able to decipher the information given.
Step Two: Recognizing information from carbon copies
Card example:
[American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the expiration date. The American Express Gold Card has numbers XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered for up to $5000.00, even if the card holder is broke.
[Mastercard]
5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering process. The first date is when the card was new, and the second is when the card expires. The most frequent number combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There are many of these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted lists, so check these first.
[Visa]
4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X)
MM/YY MM/YY*VISA
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost everywhere. The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG", or followed with a special code. These codes are as follows:
[1] MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card
[2] MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card
[3] MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card
Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much safer to use. Classic Cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards with decent backing. Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123 6000 XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards are IBM Credit Union cards, and are risky to use, although they are usually covered for large purchases.
Step Three: Testing credit
You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express credit card number, with the victim's address, zip code, and phone number. By the way, if you have problems getting the address, most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service, which is a special number you call that will give you an address from a
phone number, at a nominal charge. Now you need to check the balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run out of money), and you must also make sure that the card isn't stolen. To do this you must obtain a phone number that businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a credit card purchase. He/she will usually call a phone number, give the credit information, and then give what is called a "Merchant Number". These numbers are usually written down on or around the register. It is easy to either find these numbers and copy them, or to wait until they call one in. Watch what they dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you call the number, in a calm voice, read off the account number, merchant number, amount, and expiration date. The credit bureau will tell you if it is OK, and will give you an authorization number. Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it back to them to check it. Ignore this number completely, for it serves no real purpose. However, once you do this, the bank removes dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you can trick the operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided not to charge it. Of course, some will not allow this. Remember at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to check out the card for a purchase. Act like you are talking with a customer when he/she "cancels".
Step Four: The drop
Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the package sent. NEVER use a drop more than once. The following are typical drop sites:
[1] An empty house
An empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send the package UPS, and leave a note on the door saying, "UPS. I work days, 8 to 6. Could you please leave the package on the back door step?" You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by telling them you want to look around for a house. Ask for a list of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the area. Do so, until you find one that suits your needs.
[2] Rent A Spot
U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and signed for. End your space when the package arrives.
[3] People's houses
Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there. Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent the package to the wrong address. It was already sent, but can you keep it there for me?" This is a very reliable way if you keep calm when talking to the people.
Do NOT try post office boxes. Most of the time, UPS will not deliver to a post office box, and many people have been caught in the past attempting to use a post office box. Also, when you have determined a drop site, keep an eye on it for suspicious characters and cars that have not been there before.
Step Five: Making the transaction
You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the necessary billing information, and a good drop site.
The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses. It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay phone, especially if it is a 1-800 number. Now, when you call, don't try to disguise your voice, thinking you will trick the salesperson into believing you are an adult. These folks are trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own voice. They will ask for the following: name, name as it appears on card, phone number, billing address, expiration date, method of shipping, and product. Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next day arrival), because it gives them less time to research an order. If you are using American Express, you might have a bit of a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address. Also, if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do NOT hang up. Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won't encourage investigation on the order.
If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of charge. Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any wiser. Be careful, and try not to order anything over $500. In some states, UPS requires a signature for anything over $200, not to mention that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as well as credit fraud. Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a couple of years. Good luck!
3. Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach by The Jolly Roger
Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound, and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the procedure that follows.
First off, you must obtain:
1. A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)
2. A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
3. A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals)
4. Potassium chloride(sold as a salt substitute at health and nutrition stores)
Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer, and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.
Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0°C. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.
Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. This process of purification is called "fractional crystallization". These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate.
Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to drive off all moisture.
Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above) into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate.
Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.
The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides, etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME caution at all times while performing the processes in this
article.
You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by writing:
Information Publishing Co.
Box 10042
Odessa, Texas 79762
4. Picking Master Locks by The Jolly Roger
Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those Master combination locks and failed?
The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle too hard, the knob will not turn. That was their biggest mistake.
The first number:
Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on. While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will not move any more, and add five to the number you reach. You now have the first number of the combination.
The second number:
Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first number you got. Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the first number once. When you have bypassed the first number, start pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The knob will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove, pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose, go to the next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of the combination.
The third number:
After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number, pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the process right.
This method of opening Master locks only works on older models. Someone informed Master of their mistake, and they employed a new mechanism that is foolproof (for now).
5. The Arts of Lockpicking I by The Jolly Roger
Lockpicking I: Cars and assorted other locks
While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not changed much in the last few years, some modern devices and techniques have appeared on the scene.
Automobiles:
Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered fully in the book "In the Still of the Night", by John Russell III); however, many car manufacturers have built cases over the lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim will not work. So:
American Locksmith Service
P.O. Box 26
Culver City, CA 90230
ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and 3/4 inches wide, so it will both reach and slip through the new car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00 postage and handling.
Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to people who needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate matters, the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So:
Lock Technology Corporation
685 Main St.
New Rochelle, NY 10801
LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock cylinder without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to enter and/or start the vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00 for postage and handling.
The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of lockout tools offered by:
Steck MFG Corporation
1319 W. Stewart St.
Dayton, OH 45408
For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around.
Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder installed door lock. So:
A MFG
1151 Wallace St.
Massilon, OH 44646
Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool.
If you are too lazy to pick auto locks:
Veehof Supply
Box 361
Storm Lake, IO 50588
VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since there is no one master key for any one make of car, but there are group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys). Prices average about $20.00 a set.
Updated Lockpicking:
For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedures for most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they are as follows:
Normal Picking:
Using a pick set to align the pins, one by one, until the shear line is set and the lock opens.
Racking:
This method uses picks that are constructed with a series of bumps, or diamond shape notches. These picks are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time). With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and stay there. Raking, if successful, can be much less of an effort than standard picking.
Lock Aid Gun:
This gun shaped device was invented a number of years ago and has found application with many locksmiths and security personnel. Basically, a needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the "gun", and the "trigger" is pulled. This action snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is slipped under the pins, they will also be snapped up and down strongly. With a bit of luck they will strike each other and separate at the shear line for a split second. When this happens the lock will open. The lock aid gun is not 100% successful, but when it does work, the results are very dramatic. You can sometimes open the lock with one snap of the trigger.
Vibrator:
Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an electric toothbrush power unit. This vibrating effect will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly.
There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very short time. Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in appearance, it is actually an electronic device. I am speaking of the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by:
Fed Corporation
P.O. Box 569
Scottsdale, AR 85252
The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, teflon bearings (for less noise), and a cam roller. It comes with three picks (for different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas, on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open group one locks (common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage, in the hands of an experienced locksmith. It can take a few seconds more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at all. It will also open group two locks (including government, high security, and medicos), although this can take a short time longer. It will not open GM sidebar locks, although a device is about to be introduced to fill that gap. How much for this toy that will open most locks in seven seconds?
$235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling.
For you hard core safe crackers, FC also sells the MI-6 that will open most safes at a cost of $10,000 for the three wheel attack model, and $10,500 for the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy aluminum carrying case with monitor, disk drive and software.
If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always fall back on the magic thermal lance...
The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from 3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods. Each tube comes in a 10 foot length, but can be cut down if desired. Each one is threaded on one end. To use the lance, you screw the tube together with a matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a standard welding igniter. The device produces an incredible amount of heat. It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even rocks. An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few seconds. The lance is also known as a burning bar, and is available from:
C.O.L. MFG
7748 W. Addison
Chicago, IL 60634
6. The Arts of Lockpicking II by The Jolly Roger
So you want to be a criminal. Well, if you want to be like James Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, then go to Hollywood, because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access, look elsewhere. The following instructions will pertain mostly to the "lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick.
First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set for you to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't give up hope. It is possible to make your own, if you have access to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever).
The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now, bend the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90°). Now, take your pick to a grinder or a file, and smooth the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock. Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will slide in and out smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver comes in. It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used in the same lock at the same time, one above the other. In the coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the interior of a lock:
______________________________
\ K
| | | | | | / E
| | | | \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin
^ ^ / H [^] Lower tumbler pin
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ \ O [-] Cylinder wall
/ L (This is a greatly simplified
\ E drawing)
______________________________/
The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now, if you push a pin up, it's tendency is to fall back down, right? That is where the screwdriver comes in. Insert the screwdriver into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins from falling back down. Now, work from the back of the lock to the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the screwdriver will turn freely, and the door will open.
Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time. After that, you will quickly improve with practice.
7. Solidox Bombs by The Jolly Roger
Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive chemical can be bought over the counter: Solidox.
Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and can be bought at K-Mart, and various hardware supply shops for around $7.00. Solidox is used in welding applications as an oxidizing agent for the hot flame needed to melt metal. The most active ingredient in Solidox is potassium chlorate, a filler used in many military applications in the WWII era.
Since Solidox is literally what the name says: SOLID OXygen, you must have an energy source for an explosion. The most common and readily available energy source is common household sugar, or sucrose. In theory, glucose would be the purest energy source, but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose.
Making the mixture:
1. Open the can of Solidox, and remove all 6 sticks. One by one, grind up each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar and pestle) into the finest powder possible.
2. The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1, so weigh the Solidox powder, and grind up the equivalent amount of sugar.
3. Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1 ratio.
It is just that simple! You now have an extremely powerful substance that can be used in a variety of applications. A word of caution: be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process. Avoid friction, heat, and flame. A few years back, a teenager I knew blew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with Solidox. You have been warned!
8. High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox - Rev.2 by The Jolly Roger
I. Introduction
Have you ever wanted a lineman's handset? Surely every phreak has at least once considered the phun that he could have with one. After searching unlocked phone company trucks for months, we had an idea. We could build one. We did, and named it the "Beige Box" simply because that is the color of ours.
The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which is a phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house. To fabricate a beigebox, follow along.
II. Construction and Use
The construction is very simple. First you must understand the concept of the device. In a modular jack, there are four wires. These are red, green, yellow, and black. For a single line telephone, however, only two matter: the red (ring) and green (tip). The yellow and the black are not necessary for this project. A lineman's handset has two clips on it: the ring and the tip. Take a modular jack and look at the bottom of it's casing. There should be a grey jack with four wires (red, green, yellow & black) leading out of it. To the end of the red wire attach a red alligator clip. To the end of the green wire attach a green alligator clip. The yellow and black wires can be removed, although I would only set them aside so that you can use the modular jack in future projects. Now insert your telephone's modular plug into the modular jack. That's it. This particular model is nice because it is can be easily made, is inexpensive, uses common parts that are readily available, is small, is lightweight, and does not require the destruction of a phone.
III. Beige Box Uses
There are many uses for a Beige Box. However, before you can use it, you must know how to attach it to the output device. This device can be of any of Bell switching apparatus that include germinal sets (i.e. remote switching centers, bridgin heads, cans, etc.) To open most Bell Telephone switching apparatus, you must have a 7/16 inch hex driver (or a good pair of needle nose pliers work also). This piece of equipment can be picked up at your local hardware store. With your hex driver (or pliers), turn the security bolt(s) approximately 1/8 of an inch counter-clockwise and open. If your output device is locked, then you must have some knowledge of destroying and/or picking locks. However, we have never encountered a locked output device. Once you have opened your output device, you should see a mass of wires connected to terminals. On most output devices, the terminals should be labeled "T" (Tip -- if not labeled, it is usually on the left) and "R" (Ring -- if not labeled, usually on the right).
Remember: Ring - red - right. The "Three R's" -- a simple way to remember which is which. Now you must attach all the red alligator clip (Ring) to the "R" (Ring) terminal. Attach the green alligator clip (Tip) to the "T" (Tip) terminal.
Note: If instead of a dial tone you hear nothing, adjust the alligator clips so that they are not touching each other terminals. Also make sure they are firmly attached. By this time you should hear a dial tone. Dial ANI to find out the number you are using (you wouldn't want to use your own). Here are some practical applications:
· Eavesdropping
· Long distance, static free, free fone calls to phriends
· Dialing direct to Alliance Teleconferencing (also no static)
· Phucking people over
· Bothering the operator at little risk to yourself
· Blue Boxing with greatly reduced chance of getting caught
· Anything at all you want, since you are on an extension of that line
Eavesdropping
To be most effective, first attach the Beige Box then your phone. This eliminates the static caused by connecting the box, therefore reducing the potential suspicion of your victim. When eavesdropping, it is always best to be neither seen nor heard. If you hear someone dialing out, do not panic; but rather hang up, wait, and pick up the receiver again. The person will either have hung up or tried to complete their call again. If the latter is true, then listen in, and perhaps you will find information worthy of blackmail! If you would like to know who you are listening to, after dialing ANI, pull a CN/A on the number.
Dialing Long Distance
This section is self explanatory, but don't forget to dial a "1" before the NPA.
Dialing Direct to Alliance Teleconferencing
Simply dial 0-700-456-1000 and you will get instructions from there. I prefer this method over PBX's, since PBX's often have poor reception and are more difficult to come by.
Phucking People Over
This is a very large topic of discussion. Just by using the other topics described, you can create a large phone bill for the person (they will not have to pay for it, but it will be a big hassle for them). In addition, since you are an extension of the person's line, you can leave your phone off the hook, and they will not be able to make or receive calls. This can be extremely nasty because no one would expect the cause of the problem.
Bothering the Operator
This is also self explanatory and can provide hours of entertainment. Simply ask her things that are offensive or you would not like traced to your line. This also corresponds to the previously described section, Phucking People Over. After all, guess who's line it gets traced to?
Blue Boxing
See a file on Blue Boxing for more details. This is an especially nice feature if you live in an ESS-equipped prefix, since the calls are, once again, not traced to your line...
IV. POTENTIAL RISKS OF BEIGE BOXING
Overuse of the Beige Box may cause suspicions within the Gestapo, and result in legal problems. Therefor, I would recommend you:
· Choose a secluded spot to do your Beige Boxing,
· Use more than one output device
· Keep a low profile (i.e., do not post under your real name on a public BBS concerning your accomplishments)
In order to make sure the enemy has not been inside your output device, I recommend you place a piece of transparent tape over the opening of your output device. Therefor, if it is opened in your absence, the tape will be displaced and you will be aware of the fact that someone has intruded on your territory.
Now, imagine the possibilities: a $2000 dollar phone bill for that special person, 976 numbers galore, even harassing the operator at no risk to you! Think of it as walking into an enemies house, and using their phone to your heart's content.
9. How to make a CO² bomb by the Jolly Roger
You will have to use up the cartridge first by either shooting it or whatever. With a nail, force a hole bigger so as to allow the powder and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black powder and pack it in there real good by tapping the bottom of the cartridge on a hard surface (I said TAP not SLAM!). Insert a fuse. I recommend a good water-proof cannon fuse, or an m-80 type fuse,
but firecracker fuses work, if you can run like a black man runs from the cops after raping a white girl.) Now, light it and run like hell! It does wonders for a row of mailboxes (like the ones in apartment complexes), a car (place under the gas tank), a picture window (place on window sill), a phone booth (place right under the phone), or any other devious place. This thing throws shrapnel, and can make quit a mess!!
10. Thermite II by Jolly Roger
Thermite is nasty shit. Here is a good and easy way to make it. The first step is to get some iron-oxide (which is RUST!). Here is a good way to make large quantities in a short time:
· Get a DC converter like the one used on a train set. Cut the connector off, separate the wires, and strip them both.
· Now you need a jar of water with a tablespoon or so of sodium chloride (which is SALT!) added to it. This makes the water conductive.
· Now insert both wires into the mixture (I am assuming you plugged the converter in...) and let them sit for five minutes. One of them will start bubbling more than the other. This is the POSITIVE(+) wire. If you do not do this test right, the final product will be the opposite (chemically) of rust, which is RUST ACID. You have no use for this here (although it IS useful!).
· Anyway, put the nail tied to the positive wire into the jar. Now put the negative wire in the other end. Now let it sit overnight and in the morning scrape the rust off of the nail & repeat until you got a bunch of rust on the bottom of the glass. Be generous with your rust collection. If you are going through the trouble of making thermite, you might as well make a lot, right?
· Now remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution onto a cookie sheet. Dry it in the sun for a few hours, or inside overnight. It should be an orange-brown color (although I have seen it in many different colors! Sometimes the color gets fucked up, what can I say... but it is still iron oxide!)
· Crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it in a cast-iron pot until it is red. Now mix the pure iron oxide with pure aluminum filings which can be bought or filed down by hand from an aluminum tube or bar. The ratio or iron oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3 grams.
· Congrats! You have just made THERMITE! Now, to light it...
· Thermite requires a LOT of heat (more than a blow torch!) to ignite. However, magnesium ribbon (which is sort of hard to find.. call around) will do the trick. It takes the heat from the burning magnesium to light the thermite.
· Now when you see your victim's car, pour a fifty-cent sized pile onto his hood, stick the ribbon in it, and light the ribbon with the blow torch. Now chuckle as you watch it burn through the hood, the block, the axle, and the pavement. BE CAREFUL! The ideal mixtures can vaporize CARBON STEEL! Another idea is to use thermite to get into pay phone cash boxes.
11. Touch Explosives by the Jolly Roger
This is sort of a mild explosive, but it can be quite dangerous in large quantities. To make touch explosive (such as that found in a snap-n-pop, but more powerful), use this recipe:
· Mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Pour off the excess ammonia and dry out the crystals on a baking sheet the same way as you dried the thermite (in other words, just let it sit overnight!).
· Be careful now because these crystals are now your touch explosive. Carefully wrap a bunch in paper (I mean carefully! Friction sets 'em off!) and throw them around.. pretty loud, huh? They are fun to put on someone's chair. Add a small fish sinker to them and they can be thrown a long distance (good for crowds, football games, concerts, etc.)
12. Letter Bombs by The Jolly Roger
· You will first have to make a mild version of thermite. Use my recipe, but substitute iron fillings for rust.
· Mix the iron with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum to 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in a closed space (such as an envelope). This bring us to our next ingredient...
· Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope. You know, the type that is double layered. Separate the layers and place the mild thermite in the main section, where the letter would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer layer. There is your bomb!!
· Now to light it... this is the tricky part and hard to explain. Just keep experimenting until you get something that works. The fuse is just that touch explosive I have told you about in another one of my anarchy files. You might want to wrap it like a long cigarette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the outer layer (on top of the powdered magnesium). When the touch explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the powdered magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn the mild thermite. If the thermite didn't blow up, it would at least burn the fuck out of your enemy (it does wonders on human flesh!).
13. Paint Bombs by The Jolly Roger
To make a pain bomb you simply need a metal pain can with a refastenable lid, a nice bright color paint (green, pink, purple, or some gross color is perfect!), and a quantity of dry ice. Place the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quickly place the top on and then run like hell! With some testing you can time this to a science. It depends on the ratio of dry ice to paint to the size of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed off at someone, you could place it on their doorstep, knock on the door, and then run!! Paint will fly all over the place!!
14. Ways to send a car to Hell by The Jolly Roger
There are 1001 ways to destroy a car but I am going to cover only the ones that are the most fun (for you), the most destructive (for them), and the hardest to trace (for the cops).
· Place thermite on the hood, light it, and watch it burn all the way through the pavement!
· Tape a CO² bomb to the hood, axle, gas tank, wheel, muffler, etc.
· Put a tampon, dirt, sugar (this one is good!), a ping pong ball, or just about anything that will dissolve in the gas tank.
· Put potatoes, rocks, bananas, or anything that will fit, into the tailpipe. Use a broom handle to stuff 'em up into the tailpipe.
· Put a long rag into the gas tank and light it...
· Steal a key, copy it, replace it, and then steal the stereo.
· Break into the car. Cut a thin metal ruler into a shape like this:
Slide it into the outside window and keep pulling it back up until you catch the lock cable which should unlock the door. This device is also called a SLIM JIM. Now get the stereo, equalizer, radar detector, etc. Now destroy the inside. (A sharp knife does wonders on the seats!)
15. Do you hate school? by The Jolly Roger
· One of my favorites for getting out of a class or two is to call in a bomb threat. Tell 'em that it is in a locker. Then they have to check them all, whilst you can slip away for an hour or two. You can even place a fake bomb (in any locker but YOURS!). They might cancel school for a week while they investigate (of course, you will probably have to make it up in the summer).
· Get some pure potassium or pure sodium, put it in a capsule, and flush it down the toilet (smells awful! Stinks up the whole school!).
· Use a smoke grenade in the hallway.
· Steal the computer passwords & keys. Or steal the 80 column cards inside if they are (gag) IBM.
· Make friends with student assistants and have them change your grades when the teachers hand in their bubble sheets for the report cards.
· Spit your gum out on the carpet in the library or whatever and grind it into the carpet. Watch the janitors cry!
· Draw on lockers or spraypaint on the building that the principal is a fascist.
· Stick a potato in the tailpipe of the principal's car.
· USE YOUR IMAGINATION!
16. Phone related vandalism by the Jolly Roger
If you live where there are underground lines then you will be able to ruin someone's phone life very easily. All you must do is go to their house and find the green junction box that interfaces their line (and possibly some others in the neighborhood) with the major lines. These can be found just about anywhere but they are usually underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench and loosen the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a sledge hammer or a bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their phone cable. Now cut it into segments so it can't be fixed but must be replaced (There is a week's worth of work for 'em!!)
17. Highway radar jamming by The Jolly Roger
Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will invest in one of those expensive radar detectors. However, this device will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the radar signal is not present until the cop has your car in his sights and pulls the trigger. Then it is TOO LATE for you to slow down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a radar signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the cooperation of a local cop and found that his unit reads random numbers when my car approached him. It is suprisingly easy to make a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called a Gunn Diode will generate microwaves when supplied with the 5 to 10 volt DC and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonator). An 8 to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a car's 12v system. However, the correct construction and tuning of the cavity is difficult without good microwave measurement equipment. Police radars commonly operate on the K band at 22 GHz. Or more often on the X band at 10½25 GHz. most microwave intruder alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in supermarkets & banks, etc.) contain a Gunn type transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 kilowatts at 10½25 GHz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you cannot get one locally, write to Microwave Associates in Burlington, Massachusetts and ask them for info on 'Gunnplexers' for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a plastic box on the dash or in a weather-proof enclosure behind the PLASTIC grille. Switch on the power when on an open highway. The unit will not jam radar to the side or behind the car so don't go speeding past the radar trap. An interesting phenomena you will notice is that the drivers who are in front of you who are using detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs and bridges. Your signal is bouncing off of these objects and triggering their radar detectors!
PS If you are interested in this sort of thing, get a copy of POPULAR COMMUNICATIONS. The ads in there tell you where you can get all kinds of info on all kinds of neat equipment for all kinds of neat things!
18. Smoke Bombs by the Jolly Roger
Here is the recipe for one hell of a smoke bomb!
4 parts sugar
6 parts potassium nitrate (Salt Peter)
Heat this mixture over a LOW flame until it melts, stirring well. Pour it into a future container and, before it solidifies, imbed a few matches into the mixture to use as fuses. One pound of this stuff will fill up a whole block with thick, white smoke!
19. Mail Box Bombs by the Jolly Roger
1. Two liter bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate)
2. Small amount of sugar
3. Small amount of water
Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to believe that such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this, though, because if you are caught, it is not up to the person whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city.
20. The easiest way to hot-wire cars by the Jolly Roger
Get in the car. Look under the dash. If it's enclosed, forget it unless you want to cut through it. If you do, do it near the ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition look for two red wires. In older cars red was the standard color, if not, look for two matched pairs. When you find them, cross them and take off!
21. How to make Napalm by the Jolly Roger
· Pour some gas into an old bowl, or some kind of container.
· Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't eat anymore. You should have a sticky syrup.
· Put it on the end of something (don't touch it!!). The unused stuff lasts a long time!
22. How to make a fertilizer bomb by The Jolly Roger
Ingredients:
· Newspaper
· Fertilizer (the chemical kind, GREEN THUMB or ORCHO)
· Cotton
· Diesel fuel
Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it. Then put cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and run like you have never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet so don't do it in an alley!!
23. Tennis Ball Bombs by The Jolly Roger
Ingredients:
· Strike anywhere matches
· A tennis ball
· A nice sharp knife
· Duct tape
Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis ball. Stuff all of the matchheads into the ball, until you can't fit any more in. Then tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is real nice and tight! Then, when you see a geek walking down the street, give it a good throw. He will have a blast!!
24. Diskette Bombs by The Jolly Roger
You need:
· A disk
· Scissors
· White or blue kitchen matches (they MUST be these colors!)
· Clear nail polish
1. Carefully open up the diskette (3½" disks are best for this!)
2. Remove the cotton covering from the inside.
3. Scrape a lot of match powder into a bowl (use a wooden scraper, metal might spark the matchpowder!)
4. After you have a lot, spread it evenly on the disk.
5. Using the nail polish, spread it over the match mixture
6. Let it dry
7. Carefully put the diskette back together and use the nail polish to seal it shut on the inside (where it came apart).
When that disk is in a drive, the drive head attempts to read the disk, which causes a small fire (ENOUGH HEAT TO MELT THE DISK DRIVE AND FUCK THE HEAD UP!!). Let the fuckhead try and fix THAT!!!
25. Unlisted Phone Numbers by The Jolly Roger
There are a couple of different ways of doing this. Let's see if this one will help: Every city has one or more offices dedicated to assigning numbers to the telephone wire pairs. These offices are called DPAC offices and are available to service reps who are installing or repairing phones. To get the DPAC number, a service rep would call the customer service number for billing information in the town that the number is located in that he is trying to get the unlisted number of. (Got that?) The conversation would go something like this: "Hi, Amarillo, this is Joe from Anytown business office, I need the DPAC number for the south side of town." This info is usually passed out with no problems, so... if the first person you call doesn't have it, try another. REMEMBER, no one has ANY IDEA who the hell you are when you are talking on the phone, so you can be anyone you damn well please! When you call the DPAC number, just tell them that you need a listing for either the address that you have, or the name. DPAC DOES NOT SHOW WHETHER THE NUMBER IS LISTED OR UNLISTED!! Also, if you're going to make a habit of chasing numbers down, you might want to check into getting a criss-cross directory, which lists phone numbers by their addresses. It costs a couple hundred bucks, but it is well worth it if you have to chase more than one or two numbers down!
26. Fuses by The Jolly Roger
You would be surprised how many files are out there that use what falls under the category of a "fuse." They assume that you just have a few lying around, or know where to get them. Well, in some parts of the country, fuses are extremely hard to come by... so this file tells you how to make your own. Both fuses presented here are fairly simple to make, and are fairly reliable.
SLOW BURNING FUSE - 2 inches per minute
Materials needed:
· Cotton string or 3 shoelaces
· Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate
· Granulated sugar
Procedure:
1. Wash the cotton string or shoelaces in HOT soapy water, then rinse with fresh water
2. Mix the following together in a glass bowl:
· 1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate
· 1 part granulated sugar
· 2 parts hot water
3. Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution
4. Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry
5. Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes!!
FAST BURNING FUSE - 40 inches per minute
Materials needed:
· Soft cotton string
· Fine black powder (empty a few shotgun shells!)
· Shallow dish or pan
Procedure:
1. Moisten powder to form a paste.
2. Twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together.
3. Rub paste into string and allow to dry.
4. Check the burn rate!!!
27. How to make Potassium Nitrate by The Jolly Roger
Potassium Nitrate is an ingredient in making fuses, among other things. Here is how you make it:
Materials needed:
· 3½ gallons of nitrate bearing earth or other material
· ½ cup of wood ashes
· Bucket or other similar container about 4-5 gallons in volume
· 2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each a bit bigger than the bottom of the bucket
· Shallow dish or pan at least as large in diameter as the bucket
· Shallow, heat resistant container
· 2 gallons of water
· Something to punch holes in the bottom of the bucket
· 1 gallon of any type of alcohol
· A heat source
· Paper & tape
Procedure:
1. Punch holes on the inside bottom of the bucket, so that the metal is "puckered" outward from the bottom.
2. Spread cloth over the holes from the bottom.
3. Place wood ashes on the cloth. Spread it out so that it covers the entire cloth and has about the same thickness.
4. Place 2nd cloth on top of the wood ashes.
5. Place the dirt or other material in the bucket.
6. Place the bucket over the shallow container. NOTE: It may need support on the bottom so that the holes on the bottom are not blocked.
7. Boil water and pour it over the earth very slowly. Do NOT pour it all at once, as this will clog the filter on the bottom.
8. Allow water to run through holes into the shallow dish on the bottom.
9. Be sure that the water goes through ALL of the earth!
10. Allow water in dish to cool for an hour or so.
11. Carefully drain the liquid in the dish away, and discard the sludge in the bottom.
12. Boil this liquid over a fire for at least two hours. Small grains of salt will form - scoop these out with the paper as they form.
13. When the liquid has boiled down to ½ its original volume let it sit.
14. After ½ hour, add equal volume of the alcohol; when this mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals appear. This is the potassium nitrate.
Purification:
1. Redissolve crystals in small amount of boiling water.
2. Remove any crystals that appear.
3. Pour through improvised filter then heat concentrated solution to dryness.
4. Spread out crystals and allow to dry.
28. Exploding Lightbulbs by The Jolly Roger
Materials needed:
· Lightbulb (100w)
· Socket (duh...)
· ¼ cup soap chips
· Blackpowder! (open some shotgun shells!)
· ¼ cup kerosene or gasoline
· Adhesive tape
· Lighter or small blowtorch
· Glue
Procedure for a simple exploding lightbulb:
1. Drill a small hole in the top of the bulb near the threads!
2. Carefully pour the blackpowder into the hole. Use enough so that it touches the filament!
3. Insert into socket as normal (make sure the light is off or else YOU will be the victim!!)
4. Get the hell out!!
Procedure for a Napalm Bulb:
1. Heat kerosene/gasoline in a double boiler.
2. Melt soap chips, stirring slowly.
3. Put somewhere and allow to cool.
4. Heat the threads of the bulb VERY carefully to melt the glue. Remove threads, slowly drawing out the filament. Do NOT break the cheap electrical igniters and/or the filament or this won't work!!
5. Pour the liquid into the bulb, and slowly lower the filament back down into the bulb. Make sure the filament is dipped into the fluid.
6. Re-glue the threads back on. Insert it into a socket frequently used by the victim and get the hell out!!
When the victim flips the switch, he will be in for a BIG surprise!
29. Under water igniters by The Jolly Roger
Materials needed:
· Pack of 10 silicon diodes. (Available at Radio Shack. You will know you got the right ones if they are very, very small glass objects!)
· Pack of matches
· 1 candle
Procedure:
1. Light the candle and allow a pool of molten wax to form in the top.
2. Take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode against the head. Bend the diode pins around the matchhead so that one wraps in an upward direction and then sticks out to the side. Do the same with the other wire, but in a downward direction. The diodes should now be hugging the matchhead, but its wires MUST NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER!
3. Dip the matchhead in wax to give it a water-proof coat. These work underwater
4. Repeat to make as many as you want.
How to use them:
When these little dudes are hooked across a 6v battery, the diode reaches what is called breakdown voltage. When most electrical components reach this voltage, they usually produce great amounts of heat and light, while quickly melting into a little blob. This heat is enough to ignite a matchhead. These are recommended for use underwater, where most other igniters refuse to work.
30. Home-brew blast cannon by The Jolly Roger
Materials needed:
· 1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 ½ inches in diameter.
· 1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in diameter.
· 1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!)
· 1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small pipe.
· 5 feet of bellwire.
· 1 SPST rocker switch.
· 16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery.
· 15v relay (get this at Radio Shack).
· Electrical Tape.
· One free afternoon.
Procedure:
· Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends.
· Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as the small pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe. They should screw together easily.
· Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape, then attach it to the level on the lighter:
/------------------------gas switch is here
V
/------
!lighter!!<---metal lever!!
· Now, every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from the lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your lighter, if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly.
· Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch.
· Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the switch on the bottom, and one for the metal piece on the top. Then, mount the switch in the bottom, running the wires up and out of the top.
· Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should rock easily, and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one, hold down the trigger a bit, let it go, and throw a match in there. If all goes well, you should hear a nice big 'THUD!'
· Get a hold of the relay, and take off the top.
1---------------
v/
2--------------/<--the center object is the metal finger inside the relay
3
cc-------------/
oo----------------4
ii
ll----------------5
· Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect (2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the battery. Now you should be able to get the relay to make a little 'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you should see some tiny little sparks.
· Now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe, towards the back. Screw on the smaller pipe, tape the battery to the side of the cannon barrel (yes, but looks aren't everything!)
· You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and set it off by flipping the switch.
· Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY. You are now ready for the first trial-run!
To Test:
Put something very, very large into the barrel, just so that it fits 'just right'. Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will probably knock you on your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a shoulderpad, earmuffs, and possibly some other protective clothing (trust the Jolly Roger! You are going to need it!). Hold the
trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch. With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be able to put a frozen orange through ¼ or plywood at 25 feet.
31. Chemical Equivalency list by The Jolly Roger
Acacia................................................................Gum Arabic
Acetic Acid..............................................................Vinegar
Aluminum Oxide............................................................Alumia
Aluminum Potassium Sulphate.................................................Alum
Aluminum Sulfate............................................................Alum
Ammonium Carbonate.....................................................Hartshorn
Ammonium Hydroxide.......................................................Ammonia
Ammonium Nitrate......................................................Salt Peter
Ammonium Oleate.....................................................Ammonia Soap
Amylacetate...........................................................Banana Oil
Barium Sulfide.........................................................Black Ash
Carbon Carbinate...........................................................Chalk
Carbontetrachloride...............................................Cleaning Fluid
Calcium Hypochloride............................................Bleaching Powder
Calcium Oxide...............................................................Lime
Calcium Sulfate.................................................Plaster of Paris
Carbonic Acid............................................................Seltzer
Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide......................................Ammonium Salt
Ethylinedichloride...................................................Dutch Fluid
Ferric Oxide...........................................................Iron Rust
Furfuraldehyde..........................................................Bran Oil
Glucose...............................................................Corn Syrup
Graphite.............................................................Pencil Lead
Hydrochloric Acid..................................................Muriatic Acid
Hydrogen Peroxide.......................................................Peroxide
Lead Acetate.......................................................Sugar of Lead
Lead Tero-oxide.........................................................Red Lead
Magnesium Silicate..........................................................Talc
Magnesium Sulfate.....................................................Epsom Salt
Methylsalicylate................................................Winter Green Oil
Naphthalene............................................................Mothballs
Phenol.............................................................Carbolic Acid
Potassium Bicarbonate............................................Cream of Tarter
Potassium Chromium Sulfate............................................Chromealum
Potassium Nitrate.....................................................Salt Peter
Sodium Oxide................................................................Sand
Sodium Bicarbonate...................................................Baking Soda
Sodium Borate..............................................................Borax
Sodium Carbonate....................................................Washing Soda
Sodium Chloride.............................................................Salt
Sodium Hydroxide.............................................................Lye
Sodium Silicate............................................................Glass
Sodium Sulfate....................................................Glauber's Salt
Sodium Thiosulfate...........................................Photographer's Hypo
Sulfuric Acid.......................................................Battery Acid
Sucrose...............................................................Cane Sugar
Zinc Chloride.....................................................Tinner's Fluid
Zinc Sulfate.......................................................White Vitriol
32. Phone Taps by The Jolly Roger
Here is some info on phone taps. In this file is a schematic for a simple wiretap & instructions for hooking up a small tape recorder control relay to the phone line.
First, I will discuss taps a little. There are many different types of taps. There are transmitters, wired taps, and induction taps to name a few. Wired and wireless transmitters must be physically connected to the line before they will do any good. Once a wireless tap is connected to the line, it can transmit all conversations over a limited reception range. The phones in the house can even be modifies to pick up conversations in the room and transmit them too! These taps are usually powered off of the phone line, but can have an external power source. You can get more information on these taps by getting an issue of Popular Communications and reading through the ads. Wired taps, on the other hand, need no power source, but a wire must be run from the line to the listener or to a transmitter. There are obvious advantages of wireless taps over wired ones. There is one type of wireless tap that looks like a normal telephone mike. All you have to do is replace the original mike with this and it will transmit all conversations! There is also an exotic type of wired tap known as the 'Infinity Transmitter' or 'Harmonica Bug'. In order to hook one of these, it must be installed inside the phone. When someone calls the tapped phone & *before* it rings and blows a whistle over the line, the transmitter picks up the phone via a relay. The mike on the phone is activated so that the caller can hear all of the conversations in the room. There is a sweep tone test at 415/BUG-1111 which can be used to detect one of these taps. If one of these is on your line & the test # sends the correct tone, you will hear a click. Induction taps have one big advantage over taps that must be physically wired to the phone. They do not have to be touching the phone in order to pick up the conversation. They work on the same principle as the little suction-cup tape recorder mikes that you can get at Radio Shack. Induction mikes can be hooked up to a transmitter or be wired.
Here is an example of industrial espionage using the phone:
A salesman walks into an office & makes a phone call. He fakes the conversation, but when he hangs up he slips some foam rubber cubes into the cradle. The called party can still hear all conversations in the room. When someone picks up the phone, the cubes fall away unnoticed.
A tap can also be used on a phone to overhear what your modem is doing when you are war-dialing, hacking, or just plain calling a bbs.
Here is the schematic:
-------)!----)!(------------->
)!(
Cap ^ )!(
)!(
)!(
)!(
^^^^^---)!(------------->
^ 100K
!
! You have now 'seized' a trunk. After this, switch to multi-frequency and dial:
KP-0-700-456-x00x-ST
· KP = KP tone on Blue Box
· x = variable between 1 and 3
· ST = ST tone on Blue Box
The equipment now thinks that the operator has dialed Alliance from her switchboard and the conference shall be billed there. Since Blue Boxing is such a large topic, this is as far as I will go into it's uses.
Billing to a loop:
A third method of receiving a free conference is by billing out to a loop. A loop is 2 numbers that when two people call, they can talk to each other. You're saying woop-tee-do right? Wrong! Loops can be useful to phreaks. First, dial alliance direct. After going through the beginning procedure, which will be discussed later in this tutorial, dial 0 and wait for an Alliance operator. When she answers tell her you would like to bill the conference to such and such a number. (A loop where your phriend is on the other side) She will then call that number to receive voice verification. Of course your phriend will be waiting and will accept the charges. Thus, the conference is billed to the loop.
Billing to call forwarding:
When you dial a number that is call forwarded, it is first answered by the original location, then forwarded. The original location will hang up if 2600hz is received from only one end of the line. Therefore, if you were to wait after the forwarded residence answered, you would receive the original location's dial tone.
Example:
Dial 800-325-4067
The original residence would answer, then forward the call, a second type of ringing would be heard. When this second residence answers simply wait until they hang up. After about twenty seconds you will then receive the original residence's dial tone since it heard 2600hz from one end of the line. Simply dial Alliance from this point and the conference will be billed to the original residence. These are the four main ways to receive a free conference. I am sure
many more exist, but these four are quite handy themselves.
Logon Procedure:
Once Alliance answers you will hear a two-tone combination. This is their way of saying 'How many people do you want on the conference dude?' Simply type in a 2-digit combination, depending on what bridge of Alliance you are on, between 10 and 59. After this either hit '*' to cancel the conference size and input another or hit '#' to continue. You are now in Alliance Teleconferencing and are only seconds away from having your own roaring conference going strong!!!
Dialing in Conferees:
To dial your first conferee, dial 1+npa+pre+suff and await his/her answer.
npa = area code
pre = prefix
suff = suffix
If the number is busy, or if no one answers simply hit '*' and your call will be aborted. But, if they do answer, hit the '#' key. This will add them to the conference. Now commence dialing other conferees.
Joining Your Conference:
To join your conference from control mode simply hit the '#' key. Within a second or two you will be chatting with all your buddies. To go back into control mode, simply hit the '#' key again.
Transferring Control:
To transfer control to another conferee, go into control mode, hit the # 6+1+npa+pre+suff of the conferee you wish to give control to. If after, you wish to abort this transfer hit the '*' key.
NOTE: Transfer of control is often not available. When you receive a message stating this, you simply cannot transfer control.
Muted Conferences:
To request a muted conference simply hit the 9 key. I am not exactly sure what a muted conference is but it is probably a way to keep unwanted eavesdroppers from listening in.
Dialing Alliance Operators:
Simply dial 0 as you would from any fone and wait for the operator to answer.
Ending Your Conference:
To end your conference all together, that is kick everyone including yourself off, go into control mode and hit '*'...after a few seconds simply hang up. Your conference is over.
Are Alliance Operators Dangerous?
No. Not in the least. The worst they can do to you while you are having a conference is drop all conferees including yourself. This is in no way harmful, just a little aggravating.
Alliance and Tracing:
Alliance can trace, as all citizens of the United States can. But this has to all be pre-meditated and AT&T has to be called and it's really a large hassle, therefore, it is almost never done. Alliance simply does not want it known that teenagers are phucking them over. The only sort of safety equipment Alliance has on-line is a simple pen register. This little device simply records all the numbers of the conferees dialed. No big deal. All Alliance can do is call up that persons number, threaten and question. However, legally, they can do nothing because all you did was answer your fone.
NOTE: Almost all instructions are told to the person in command by Alliance recordings. A lot of this tutorial is just a listing of those commands plus information gathered by either myself or the phellow phreaks of the world!!!
38. Aqua Box Plans by The Jolly Roger
Every true phreaker lives in fear of the dreaded FBI 'Lock In Trace'. For a long time, it was impossible to escape from the Lock In Trace. This box does offer an escape route with simple directions to it. This box is quite a simple concept, and almost any phreaker with basic electronics knowledge can construct and use it.
The Lock In Trace
A lock in trace is a device used by the FBI to lock into the phone users location so that he can not hang up while a trace is in progress. For those of you who are not familiar with the concept of 'locking in', then here's a brief description. The FBI can tap into a conversation, sort of like a three-way call connection. Then, when they get there, they can plug electricity into the phone line. All phone connections are held open by a certain voltage of electricity. That is why you sometimes get static and faint connections when you are calling far away, because the electricity has trouble keeping the line up. What the lock in trace does is cut into the line and generate that same voltage straight into the lines. That way, when you try and hang up, voltage is retained. Your phone will ring just like someone was calling you even after you hang up. (If you have call waiting, you should understand better about that, for call waiting intercepts the electricity and makes a tone that means someone is going through your line. Then, it is a matter of which voltage is higher. When you push down the receiver, then it see-saws the electricity to the other side. When you have a person on each line it is impossible to hang up unless one or both of them will hang up. If you try to hang up, voltage is retained, and your phone will ring. That should give you an understanding of how calling works. Also, when electricity passes through a certain point on your phone, the electricity causes a bell to ring, or on some newer phones an electronic ring to sound.) So, in order to eliminate the trace, you somehow must lower the voltage level on your phone line. You should know that every time someone else picks up the phone line, then the voltage does decrease a little. In the first steps of planning this out, Xerox suggested getting about a hundred phones all hooked into the same line that could all be taken off the hook at the same time. That would greatly decrease the voltage level. That is also why most three-way connections that are using the bell service three way calling (which is only $3 a month) become quite faint after a while. By now, you should understand the basic idea. You have to drain all of the power out of the line so the voltage can not be kept up. Rather sudden draining of power could quickly short out the FBI voltage machine, because it was only built to sustain the exact voltage necessary to keep the voltage out. For now, imagine this. One of the normal Radio Shack generators that you can go pick up that one end of the cord that hooks into the central box has a phone jack on it and the other has an electrical plug. This way, you can "flash" voltage through the line, but cannot drain it. So, some
modifications have to be done.
Materials
A BEOC (Basic Electrical Output Socket), like a small lamp-type connection, where you just have a simple plug and wire that would plug into a light bulb. One of cords mentioned above, if you can't find one then construct your own... Same voltage connection, but the restrainer must be built in (I.E. The central box) Two phone jacks (one for the modem, one for if you are being traced to plug the aqua box into) Some creativity and easy work.
Notice: No phones have to be destroyed/modified to make this box, so don't go out and buy a new phone for it!
Procedure
All right, this is a very simple procedure. If you have the BEOC, it could drain into anything: a radio, or whatever. The purpose of having that is you are going to suck the voltage out from the phone line into the electrical appliance so there would be no voltage left to lock you in with.
1. Take the connection cord. Examine the plug at the end. It should have only two prongs. If it has three, still, do not fear. Make sure the electrical appliance is turned off unless you want to become a crispy critter while making this thing. Most plugs will have a hard plastic design on the top of them to prevent you from getting in at the electrical wires inside. Well, remove it. If you want to keep the plug (I don't see why...) then just cut the top off. When you look inside, Low and Behold, you will see that at the base of the prongs there are a few wires connecting in. Those wires conduct the power into the appliance. So, you carefully unwrap those from the sides and pull them out until they are about an inch ahead of the prongs. If you don't want to keep the jack, then just rip the prongs out. If you are, cover the prongs with insulation tape so they will not connect with the wires when the power is being drained from the line.
2. Do the same thing with the prongs on the other plug, so you have the wires evenly connected. Now, wrap the end of the wires around each other. If you happen to have the other end of the voltage cord hooked into the phone, stop reading now, you're too fucking stupid to continue. After you've wrapped the wires around each other, then cover the whole thing with the plugs with insulating tape. Then, if you built your own control box or if you bought one, then cram all the wires into it and reclose it. That box is your ticket out of this.
3. Re-check everything to make sure it's all in place. This is a pretty flimsy connection, but on later models when you get more experienced at it then you can solder away at it and form the whole device into one big box, with some kind of cheap Mattel hand-held game inside to be the power connector. In order to use it, just keep this box handy. Plug it into the jack if you want, but it will slightly lower the voltage so it isn't connected. When you plug it in, if you see sparks, unplug it and restart the whole thing. But if it just seems fine then leave it.
Use
----
Now, so you have the whole thing plugged in and all... Do not use this unless the situation is desperate! When the trace has gone on, don't panic, unplug your phone, and turn on the appliance that it was hooked to. It will need energy to turn itself on, and here's a great source... The voltage to keep a phone line open is pretty small and a simple light bulb should drain it all in and probably short the FBI computer at the same time.
39. Hindenberg Bomb by The Jolly Roger
Needed:
· 1 Balloon
· 1 Bottle
· 1 Liquid Plumber
· 1 Piece Aluminum foil
· 1 Length Fuse
Fill the bottle 3/4 full with Liquid Plumber and add a little piece of aluminum foil to it. Put the balloon over the neck of the bottle until the balloon is full of the resulting gas. This is highly flammable hydrogen. Now tie the balloon. Now light the fuse, and let it rise. When the fuse contacts the balloon, watch out!!!
40. How to Kill Someone with your Bare Hands by The Jolly Roger
This file will explain the basics of hand-to-hand combat, and will tell of the best places to strike and kill an enemy. When engaged in hand-to-hand combat, your life is always at stake. There is only one purpose in combat, and that is to kill your enemy. Never face an enemy with the idea of knocking him out. The chances are extremely good that he will kill YOU instead. When a weapon is not available, one must resort to the full use of his natural weapons. The natural weapons are:
1. The knife edge of your hands.
2. Fingers folded at the second joint or knuckle.
3. The protruding knuckle of your second finger.
4. The heel of your hand.
5. Your boot
6. Elbows
7. Knees
8. Your Teeth.
Attacking is a primary factor. A fight was never won by defensive action. Attack with all of your strength. At any point or any situation, some vulnerable point on your enemies body will be open for attack. Do this while screaming as screaming has two purposes.
1. To frighten and confuse your enemy.
2. To allow you to take a deep breath which, in turn, will put more oxygen in your blood stream.
Your balance and balance of your enemy are two important factors; since, if you succeed in making your enemy lose his balance, the chances are nine to one that you can kill him in your next move. The best over-all stance is where your feet are spread about shoulders width apart, with your right foot about a foot ahead of the left. Both arms should be bent at the elbows parallel to each other. Stand on the balls of your feet and bend your waist slightly. Kind of like a boxer's crouch. Employing a sudden movement or a scream or yell can throw your enemy off-balance. There are many vulnerable points of the body. We will cover them now:
Eyes: Use your fingers in a V-shape and attack in gouging motion.
Nose:(Extremely vulnerable) Strike with the knife edge of the hand along the bridge, which will cause breakage, sharp pain, temporary blindness, and if the blow is hard enough, death. Also, deliver a blow with the heel of your hand in an upward motion, this will shove the bone up into the brain causing death.
Adam's Apple: This spot is usually pretty well protected, but if you get the chance, strike hard with the knife edge of your hand. This should sever the wind-pipe, and then it's all over in a matter of minutes.
Temple: There is a large artery up here, and if you hit it hard enough, it will cause death. If you manage to knock your enemy down, kick him in the temple, and he'll never get up again.
Back of the Neck: A rabbit punch, or blow delivered to the base of the neck can easily break it, but to be safe, it is better to use the butt of a gun or some other heavy blunt object.
Upper lip: A large network of nerves are located. These nerves are extremely close to the skin. A sharp upward blow will cause extreme pain, and unconsciousness.
Ears: Coming up from behind an enemy and cupping the hands in a clapping motion over the victims ears can kill him immediately. The vibrations caused from the clapping motion will burst his eardrums, and cause internal bleeding in the brain.
Groin: A VERY vulnerable spot. If left open, get it with knee hard, and he'll buckle over very fast.
Kidneys: A large nerve that branches off to the spinal cord comes very close to the skin at the kidneys. A direct blow with the knife edge of your hand can cause death.
There are many more ways to kill and injure an enemy, but these should work best for the average person. This is meant only as information and I would not recommend that you use this for a simple High School Brawl. Use these methods only, in your opinion, if your life is in danger. Any one of these methods could very easily kill or cause permanent damage to someone. One more word of caution, you should practice these moves before using them on a dummy, or a mock battle with a friend. (You don't have to actually hit him to practice, just work on accuracy.)
41. Phone Systems Tutorial III by The Jolly Roger
Preface:
This article will focus primarily on the standard western electric single- Slot coin telephone (aka fortress fone) which can be divided into 3 types:
· dial-tone first (dtf)
· coin-first (cf): (i.e., it wants your $ before you receive a dial tone)
· dial post-pay service (pp): you payafter the party answers
Depositing coins (slugs):
Once you have deposited your slug into a fortress, it is subjected to a Gamut of tests. The first obstacle for a slug is the magnetic trap. This will stop any light-weight magnetic slugs and coins. If it passes this, the slug is then classified as a nickel, dime, or Quarter. Each slug is then checked for appropriate size and weight. If These tests are passed, it will then travel through a nickel, dime, or quarter Magnet as appropriate. These magnets set up an eddy current effect which Causes coins of the appropriate characteristics to slow down so they Will follow the correct trajectory. If all goes well, the coin will follow the Correct path (such as bouncing off of the nickel anvil) where it will Hopefully fall into the narrow accepted coin channel. The rather elaborate tests that are performed as the coin travels down the Coin chute will stop most slugs and other undesirable coins, such as Pennies, which must then be retrieved using the coin release lever. If the slug miraculously survives the gamut, it will then strike the Appropriate totalizer arm causing a ratchet wheel to rotate once for every 5-cent increment (e.g., a quarter will cause it to rotate 5 times). The totalizer then causes the coin signal oscillator to readout a dual-frequency signal indicating the value deposited to acts (a computer) or the Tsps operator. These are the same tones used by phreaks in the infamous red boxes. For a quarter, 5 beep tones are outpulsed at 12-17 pulses per second (pps). A dime causes 2 beep tones at 5 - 8½ pps while a nickel causes one beep tone at 5 - 8½ pps. A beep consists of 2 tones: 2200 + 1700 hz. A relay in the fortress called the "B Relay" (yes, there is also an 'a relay') places a capacitor across the speech circuit during totalizer readout to prevent the "customer" from hearing the red box tones. In older 3 slot phones: one bell (1050-1100 hz) for a nickel, two bells for a dime, and one gong (800 hz) for a quarter are used instead of the modern dual-frequency tones.
TSPS & ACTS
While fortresses are connected to the co of the area, all transactions are handled via the traffic service position system (tsps). In areas that do not have acts, all calls that require operator assistance, such as calling card and collect, are automatically routed to a tsps operator position. In an effort to automate fortress service, a computer system known as automated coin toll service (acts) has been implemented in many areas. Acts listens to the red box signals from the fones and takes appropriate action. It is acts which says, "two dollars please (pause) please deposit two dollars for the next ten seconds" (and other variations). Also, if you talk for more than three minutes and then hang-up, acts will call back and demand your money. Acts is also responsible for automated calling card service. Acts also provide trouble diagnosis for craftspeople (repairmen specializing in fortresses). For example, there is a coin test which is great for tuning up red boxes. In many areas this test can be activated by dialing 09591230 at a fortress (thanks to karl marx for this information). Once activated it will request that you deposit various coins. It will then identify the coin and outpulse the appropriate red box signal. The coins are usually returned when you hang up. To make sure that there is actually money in the fone, the co initiates a "ground test" at various times to determine if a coin is actually in the fone. This is why you must deposit at least a nickel in order to use a red box!
Green Boxes:
Paying the initial rate in order to use a red box (on certain fortresses) left a sour taste in many red boxer's mouths thus the green box was invented. The green box generates useful tones such as coin collect, coin return, and ringback. These are the tones that acts or the tsps operator would send to The co when appropriate. Unfortunately, the green box cannot be used at a fortress station but it must be used by the called party.
Here are the tones:
Coin Collect 700 + 1100 Hz
Coin Return 1100 + 1700 Hz
Ringback 700 + 1700 Hz
Before the called party sends any of these tones, an operator released signal should be sent to alert the MF detectors at the co. This can be accomplished by sending 900 + 1500 hz or a single 2600 hz wink (90 ms) followed by a 60 ms gap and then the appropriate signal for at least 900 Ms.
Also, do not forget that the initial rate is collected shortly before the 3 minute period is up. Incidentally, once the above MF tones for collecting and returning coins reach the co, they are converted into an appropriate dc pulse (-130 volts for return & +130 volts for collect). This pulse is then sent down the tip to the fortress. This causes the coin relay to either return or collect the coins. The alleged "t-network" takes advantage of this information. When a pulse for coin collect (+130 vdc) is sent down the line, it must be grounded somewhere. This is usually either the yellow or black wire. Thus, if the wires are exposed, these wires can be cut to prevent the pulse from being grounded. When the three minute initial period is almost up, make sure that the black & yellow wires are severed; then hang up, wait about 15 seconds in case of a second pulse, reconnect the wires, pick up the fone, hang up again, and if all goes well it should be "jackpot" time.
Physical Attack:
A typical fortress weighs roughly 50 lbs. With an empty coin box. Most of this is accounted for in the armor plating. Why all the security? Well, Bell contributes it to the following: "social changes during the 1960's made the multislot coin station a prime target for: vandalism, strong arm robbery, fraud, and theft of service. This brought about the introduction of the more rugged single slot coin station and a new environment for coin service." As for picking the lock, I will quote Mr. Phelps: "We often fantasize about 'picking the lock' or 'getting a master key.' Well, you can forget about it. I don't like to discourage people, but it will save you from wasting a lot of our time--time which can be put to better use (heh, heh)." As for physical attack, the coin plate is secured on all four side by hardened steel bolts which pass through two
slots each. These bolts are in turn interlocked by the main lock. One phreak I know did manage to take one of the 'mothers' home (which was attached to a piece of plywood at a construction site; otherwise, the permanent ones are a bitch to detach from the wall!). It took him almost ten hours to open the coin box using a power drill, sledge hammers, and crowbars (which was empty -- perhaps next time, he will deposit a coin first to hear if it slushes down nicely or hits the empty bottom with a clunk.)
Taking the fone offers a higher margin of success. Although this may be difficult often requiring brute force and there has been several cases of back axles being lost trying to take down a fone! A quick and dirty way to open the coin box is by using a shotgun. In Detroit, after ecologists cleaned out a municipal pond, they found 168 coin phones rifled. In colder areas, such as Canada, some shrewd people tape up the fones using duct tape, pour in water, and come back the next day when the water will have froze thus expanding and cracking the fone open. In one case, "unauthorized coin collectors" where caught when they brought $6,000 in change to a bank and the bank became suspicious... At any rate, the main lock is an eight level tumbler located on the right side of the coin box. This lock has 390,625 possible positions (5 ^ 8, since there are 8 tumblers each with 5 possible positions) thus it is highly pick resistant! The lock is held in place by 4 screws. If there is sufficient clearance to the right of the fone, it is conceivable to punch out the screws using the drilling pattern below (provided by Alexander Muddy in tap #32):
!! ^
!! !
! 1- 3/16 " !! !
!<--- --->!! 1-½"
-------------------- !
! ! !! ! !
! (+) (+)-! -----------
---! !! ! ^
! ! !! ! !
! ! (Z) !! ! !
! ! !! ! 2-3/16"
---! !! ! !
! (+) (+) ! !
! !! ! !
-------------------- -----------
!!
!!
(Z) KEYHOLE (+) SCREWS
!!
After this is accomplished, the lock can be pushed backwards disengaging the lock from the cover plate. The four bolts of the cover plate can then be retracted by turning the bolt works with a simple key in the shape of the hole on the coin plate (see diagram below). Of course, there are other methods and drilling patterns.
_
! !
( )
!_!
[ROUGHLY]
DIAGRAM OF COVER PLATE KEYHOLE
The top cover uses a similar, but not as strong locking method with the keyhole depicted above on the top left hide and a regular lock (probably tumbler also) on the top right-hand side. It is interesting to experiment with the coin chute and the fortresses own "red box" which bell didn't have the balls to color red.
Miscellaneous:
In a few areas (rural & Canada), post-pay service exists. With this type of service, the mouthpiece is cut off until the caller deposits money when the called party answers. This also allows for free calls to weather and other dial-it services! Recently, 2600 magazine announced the clear box which consists of a telephone pickup coil and a small amp. It is based on the principal that the receiver is also a weak transmitter and that by amplifying your signal you can talk via the transmitter thus avoiding costly telephone charges! Most fortresses are found in the 9xxx area. Under former bell areas, they usually start at 98xx (right below the 99xx official series) and move downward.
Since the line, not the fone, determines whether or not a deposit must be made, dtf & charge-a-call fones make great extensions! Finally, fortress fones allow for a new hobby--instruction plate collecting. All that is required is a flat-head screwdriver and a pair of needle-nose pliers. Simply use the screwdriver to lift underneath the plate so that you can grab it with the pliers and yank downwards. I would suggest covering the tips of the pliers with electrical tape to prevent scratching. Ten cent plates are definitely becoming a "rarity!"
Fortress security:
While a lonely fortress may seem the perfect target, beware! The gestapo has been known to stake out fortresses for as long as 6 years according to the grass roots quarterly. To avoid any problems, do not use the same fones repeatedly for boxing, calling cards, & other experiments. The Telco knows how much money should be in the coin box and when its not there they tend to get perturbed (Read: Pissed Off).
42. Black Box Plans by The Jolly Roger
Introduction:
At any given time, the voltage running through your phone is about 20 Volts. When someone calls you, this voltage goes up to 48 Volts and rings the bell. When you answer, the voltage goes down to about 10 Volts. The phone company pays attention to this. When the voltage drops to 10, they start billing the person who called you.
Function:
The Black Box keeps the voltage going through your phone at 36 Volts, so that it never reaches 10 Volts. The phone company is thus fooled into thinking you never answered the phone and does not bill the caller. However, after about a half hour the phone company will get suspicious and disconnect your line for about 10 seconds.
Materials:
· 1 1.8K ½ Watt Resistor
· 1 1½V LED
· 1 SPST Switch
Procedure:
1. Open your phone by loosening the two screws on the bottom and lifting the case off.
2. There should be three wires: Red, Green, and Yellow. We'll be working with the Red Wire.
3. Connect the following in parallel:
· The Resistor and LED.
· The SPST Switch.
In other words, you should end up with this:
(Red Wire)
!---/\/\/\--O--!
(Line)-----! !-----(Phone)
!-----_/_------!
/\/\/\ = Resistor
O = LED
_/_ = SPST
Use:
The SPST Switch is the On/Off Switch of the Black Box. When the box is off, your phone behaves normally. When the box is on and your phone rings, the LED flashes. When you answer, the LED stays on and the voltage is kept at 36V, so the calling party doesn't get charged. When the box is on, you will not get a dial tone and thus cannot make calls. Also remember that calls are limited to half an hour.
PS Due to new Fone Company switching systems & the like, this may or may not work in your area. If you live in Bumfuck Kentucky, then try this out. I make no guarantees! (I never do...)
43. The Infamous Blotto Box!! by The Jolly Roger
(I bet that no one has the balls to build this one!)
Finally, it is here! What was first conceived as a joke to fool the innocent
phreakers around America has finally been conceived! Well, for you people who are unenlightened about the Blotto Box, here is a brief summery of a legend.
The Blotto Box
For years now every pirate has dreamed of the Blotto Box. It was at first made as a joke to mock more ignorant people into thinking that the function of it actually was possible. Well, if you are The Voltage Master, it is possible. Originally conceived by King Blotto of much fame, the Blotto Box is finally available to the public.
NOTE: Jolly Roger can not be responsible for the information disclosed in the file! This file is strictly for informational purposes and should not be actually built and used! Usage of this electronical impulse machine could have the severe results listed below and could result in high federal prosecution! Again, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY! All right, now that that is cleared up, here is the basis of the box and it's function.
The Blotto Box is every phreaks dream... you could hold AT&T down on its knee's with this device. Because, quite simply, it can turn off the phone lines everywhere. Nothing. Blotto. No calls will be allowed out of an area code, and no calls will be allowed in. No calls can be made inside it for that matter. As long as the switching system stays the same, this box will not stop at a mere area code. It will stop at nothing. The electrical impulses that emit from this box will open every line. Every line will ring and ring and ring... the voltage will never be cut off until the box/generator is stopped. This is no 200 volt job, here. We are talking GENERATOR. Every phone line will continue to ring, and
people close to the box may be electrocuted if they pick up the phone. But, the Blotto Box can be stopped by merely cutting of the line or generator. If they are cut off then nothing will emit any longer. It will take a while for the box to calm back down again, but that is merely a superficial aftereffect. Once again: Construction and use of this box is not advised! The Blotto Box will continue as long as there is electricity to continue with. OK, that is what it does, now, here are some interesting things for you to do with it...
Blotto Functions/Installing
Once you have installed your Blotto, there is no turning back. The following are the instructions for construction and use of this box. Please read and heed all warnings in the above section before you attempt to construct this box.
Materials:
· A Honda portable generator or a main power outlet like in a stadium or some such place.
· 400 volt rated coupler that splices a female plug into a phone line jack.
· A meter of voltage to attach to the box itself.
· A green base (i.e. one of the nice boxes about 3' by 4' that you see around in your neighborhood. They are the main switch boards and would be a more effective line to start with or a regular phone jack (not your own, and not in your area code!)
· A soldering iron and much solder.
· A remote control or long wooden pole.
Now. You must have guessed the construction from that. If not, here goes, I will explain in detail. Take the Honda Portable Generator and all of the other listed equipment and go out and hunt for a green base. Make sure it is one on the ground or hanging at head level from a pole, not the huge ones at the top of telephone poles. Open it up with anything convenient, if you are two feeble then fuck, don't try this. Take a look inside... you are hunting for color-coordinating lines of green and red. Now, take out your radio shack cord and rip the meter thing off. Replace it with the voltage meter about. A good level to set the voltage to is about 1000 volts. Now, attach the voltage meter to the cord and set the limit for one thousand. Plug the other end of the cord into the generator. Take the phone jack and splice the jack part off. Open it up and match the red and green wires with the other red and green wires.
NOTE: If you just had the generator on and have done this in the correct order, you will be a crispy critter. Keep the generator off until you plan to start it up. Now, solder those lines together carefully. Wrap duck tape or insulation tape around all of the wires. Now, place the remote control right on to the startup of the generator. If you have the long pole, make sure it is very long and stand back as far away as you can get and reach the pole over.
NOTICE: If you are going right along with this without reading the file first, you still realize now that your area code is about to become null! Then, getting back, twitch the pole/remote control and run for your damn life. Anywhere, just get away from it. It will be generating so much electricity that if you stand to close you will kill yourself. The generator will smoke, etc. but will not stop. You are now killing your area code, because all of that energy is spreading through all of the phone lines around you in every direction.
Have a nice day!
The Blotto Box: Aftermath
Well, that is the plans for the most devastating and ultimately deadly
box ever created. My hat goes off to: King Blotto (for the original idea).
44. Blowgun by The Jolly Roger
In this article I shall attempt to explain the use and manufacture of a powerful blow-gun and making darts for the gun. The possession of the blow gun described in this article IS a felony. So be careful where you use it. I don't want to get you all busted.
Needed:
1. Several strands of yarn (About 2 inches a-piece).
2. A regular pencil.
3. A 2 ¼ inch long needle (hopefully with a beaded head. If not obtainable, wrap tape around end of needle.
4. ¼ foot pipe. (PVC or Aluminum) Half a inch in diameter.
Constructing the dart:
1. Carefully twist and pull the metal part (Along with eraser) of the pencil till it comes off.
2. Take Pin and start putting about 5-7 Strands of yarn on the pin. Then push them up to the top of the pin. But not over the head of the pin (or the tape).
3. Push pin through the hollow part of the head where the pencil was before.
4. That should for a nice looking dart. (see illustration)
#####
>>>>>-----/ # is the yarn
> is the head of the pencil
- is the pin it-self
/ is the head of the pin
Using the Darts:
1. Now take the finished dart and insert it in the tube (if it is too small put on more yarn.)
2. Aim the tube at a door, wall, sister, ect.
3. Blow on the end of the pipe.
4. Sometimes the end of the pipe may be sharp. When this happens I suggest you wrap it with some black electrician tape. It should feel a lot better.
45. Brown Box Plans by The Jolly Roger
This is a fairly simple mod that can be made to any phone. All it does is allow you to take any two lines in your house and create a party line. So far I have not heard of anyone who has any problems with it. There is one thing that you will notice when you are one of the two people who is called by a person with a brown box. The other person will sound a little bit faint. I could overcome this with some amplifiers but then there wouldn't be very many of these made [Why not?]. I think the convenience of having two people on the line at once will make up for any minor volume loss.
Here is the diagram:
KEY:___________________________________
| PART | SYMBOL |
|---------------------------------|
| BLACK WIRE | * |
| YELLOW WIRE | = |
| RED WIRE | + |
| GREEN WIRE | - |
| SPDT SWITCH | _/_ |
| _/_ |
| VERTICAL WIRE | | |
| HORIZONTAL WIRE | _ |
-----------------------------------
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* ==_/_- +
*******_/_++++++
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|_____PHONE____|
46. Calcium Carbide Bomb by The Jolly Roger
This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball!
47. More Ways to Send a Car to Hell by The Jolly Roger
Due to a lot of compliments, I have written an update to file #14. I have left the original intact. This expands upon the original idea, and could be well called a sequel.
How to have phun with someone else's car. If you really detest someone, and I mean detest, here's a few tips on what to do in your spare time. Move the windshield wiper blades, and insert and glue tacks. The tacks make lovely designs. If your "friend" goes to school with you, Just before he comes out of school. Light a lighter and then put it directly underneath his car door handle. Wait...Leave...Listen. When you hear a loud "shit!", you know he made it to his car in time. Remove his muffler and pour approximately 1 Cup of gas in it. Put the muffler back, then wait till their car starts. Then you have a cigarette lighter. A 30 foot long cigarette lighter. This one is effective, and any fool can do it. Remove the top air filter. That's it! Or a oldie but goodie: sugar in the gas tank. Stuff rags soaked in gas up the exhaust pipe. Then you wonder why your "friend" has trouble with his/her lungs. Here's one that takes time and many friends. Take his/her car then break into their house and reassemble it, in their living or bedroom. Phun eh? If you're into engines, say eeni mine moe and point to something and remove it. They wonder why something doesn't work. There are so many others, but the real good juicy ones come by thinking hard.
48. Ripping off Change Machines by The Jolly Roger
Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in airports Laundromats or arcades that dispense change when you put in your 1 or 5 dollar bill? Well then, here is an article for you.
1. Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill length wise, not the type where you put the bill in a tray and then slide the tray in!!!
2. After finding the right machine, get a $1 or $5 bill. Start crumpling up into a ball. Then smooth out the bill, now it should have a very wrinkly surface.
3. Now the hard part. You must tear a notch in the bill on the left side about ½ inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (See Figure).
4. If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go out the machine. Put the bill in the machine and wait. What should happen is: when you put your bill in the machine it thinks everything is fine. When it gets to the part of the bill with the notch cut out, the machine will reject the bill and (if you have done it right) give you the change at the same time!!! So, you end up getting your bill back, plus the change!! It might take a little practice, but once you get the hang of it, you can get a lot of money!
\-----Make notch here. About ½" down from the 1.
49. Clear Box Plans by The Jolly Roger
The clear box is a new device which has just been invented that can be used throughout Canada and rural United States. The clear box works on "PostPay" payphones (fortress fones). Those are the payphones that don't require payment until after the connection is established. You pick up the fone, get a dial tone, dial your number, and then insert your money after the person answers. If you don't deposit the money then you can not speak to the person on the other end because your mouth piece is cut off but not the ear-piece. (obviously these phones are nice for free calls to weather or time or other such recordings). All you must do is to go to your nearby Radio Shack, or electronics store, and get a four-transistor amplifier and a telephone suction cup induction pick-up. The induction pick-up would be hooked up as it normally would to record a conversation, except that it would be plugged into the output of the amplifier and a microphone would be hooked to the input. So when the party that is being called answers, the caller could speak through the little microphone instead. His voice then goes through the amplifier and out the induction coil, and into the back of the receiver where it would then be broadcast through the phone lines and the other party would be able to hear the caller. The Clear Box thus 'clears up' the problem of not being heard. Luckily, the line will not be cut-off after a certain amount of time because it will wait forever for the coins to be put in. The biggest advantage for all of us about this new clear box is the fact that this type of payphone will most likely become very common. Due to a few things: 1st, it is a cheap way of getting the DTF, dial-tone-first service, 2nd, it doesn't require any special equipment, (for the phone company) This payphone will work on any phone line. Usually a payphone line is different, but this is a regular phone line and it is set up so the phone does all the charging, not the company.
50. CNA List by The Jolly Roger
NPA TEL NUMBER NPA TEL NUMBER NPA TEL NUMBER
201 201-676-7070 415 415-543-6374 709 *** NONE ***
202 304-343-7016 416 416-443-0542 712 402-580-2255
203 203-789-6815 417 314-721-6626 713 713-861-7194
204 204-949-0900 418 514-725-2491 714 818-501-7251
205 205-988-7000 419 614-464-0123 715 608-252-6932
206 206-382-5124 501 405-236-6121 716 518-471-8111
207 617-787-5300 502 502-583-2861 717 412-633-5600
208 303-293-8777 503 206-382-5124 718 518-471-8111
209 415-543-2861 504 504-245-5330 801 303-293-8777
212 518-471-8111 505 303-293-8777 802 617-787-5300
213 415-781-5271 506 506-648-3041 803 912-784-0440
214 214-464-7400 507 402-580-2255 804 304-344-7935
215 412-633-5600 509 206-382-5124 805 415-543-2861
216 614-464-0123 512 512-828-2501 806 512-828-2501
217 217-525-5800 513 614-464-0123 807 416-443-0542
218 402-580-2255 514 514-725-2491 808 212-334-4336
219 317-265-4834 515 402-580-2255 809 212-334-4336
301 304-343-1401 516 518-471-8111 812 317-265-4834
302 412-633-5600 517 313-223-8690 813 813-228-7871
303 303-293-8777 518 518-471-8111 814 412-633-5600
304 304-344-8041 519 416-443-0542 815 217-525-5800
305 912-784-0440 601 601-961-8139 816 816-275-2782
306 306-347-2878 602 303-293-8777 817 214-464-7400
307 303-293-8777 603 617-787-5300 818 415-781-5271
308 402-580-2255 604 604-432-2996 819 514-725-2491
309 217-525-5800 605 402-580-2255 901 615-373-5791
312 312-796-9600 606 502-583-2861 902 902-421-4110
313 313-223-8690 607 518-471-8111 904 912-784-0440
314 314-721-6626 608 608-252-6932 906 313-223-8690
315 518-471-8111 609 201-676-7070 907 *** NONE ***
316 816-275-2782 612 402-580-2255 912 912-784-0440
317 317-265-4834 613 416-443-0542 913 816-275-2782
318 504-245-5330 614 614-464-0123 914 518-471-8111
319 402-580-2255 615 615-373-5791 915 512-828-2501
401 617-787-5300 616 313-223-8690 916 415-543-2861
402 402-580-2255 617 617-787-5300 918 405-236-6121
403 403-425-2652 618 217-525-5800 919 912-784-0440
404 912-784-0440 619 818-501-7251 900 201-676-7070
405 405-236-6121 701 402-580-2255
406 303-293-8777 702 415-543-2861
408 415-543-6374 703 304-344-7935
409 713-861-7194 704 912-784-0440
412 413-633-5600 705 416-979-3469
413 617-787-5300 706 *** NONE ***
414 608-252-6932 707 415-543-6374
51. Electronic Terrorism by The Jolly Roger
1. It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you. Being of a rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to avoid a (direct) confrontation. But as he laughs in your face, you smile inwardly---your revenge is already planned.
2. Follow your victim to his locker, car, or house. Once you have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or more, letting your anger boil.
3. In the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist kit(details below.)
4. Plant your kit at the designated target site on a Monday morning between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00 am. Include a calm, suggestive note that quietly hints at the possibility of another attack. Do not write it by hand! An example of an effective note: "don't be such a jerk, or the next one will take off your hand. Have a nice day." Notice how the calm tone instills fear. As if written by a homicidal psychopath.
5. Choose a strategic location overlooking the target site. Try to position yourself in such a way that you can see his facial contortions.
6. Sit back and enjoy the fireworks! Assembly of the versatile, economic, and effective terrorist kit #1: the parts you'll need are:
· 4 AA batteries
· 1 9-volt battery
· 1 SPDT mini relay (radio shack)
· 1 rocket engine(smoke bomb or m-80)
· 1 solar igniter (any hobby store)
· 1 9-volt battery connector
1. Take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's coil. This circuit should also include a pair of contacts that when separated cut off this circuit. These contacts should be held together by trapping them between the locker, mailbox, or car door. Once the door is opened, the contacts fall apart and the 9-volt circuit is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the closed position thus closing the ignition circuit. (If all this is confusing take a look at the schematic below.)
2. Take the 4 AA batteries and wire them in succession. Wire the positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of another, until all four are connected except one positive terminal and one negative terminal. Even though the four AA batteries only combine to create 6 volts, the increase in amperage is necessary to activate the solar igniter quickly and effectively.
3. Take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of it to the relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of the solar igniter. Then wire the other prong of the solar igniter back to the open position on the relay.
4. Using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker, mailbox, or car door. And last, insert the solar igniter into the rocket engine (smoke bomb or m-80).
Your kit is now complete!
---------><---------
I (CONTACTS) I
I I
I - (BATTERY)
I ---
I I
I (COIL) I
------///////-------
/-----------
/ I
/ I
/ I
(SWITCH) I I
I I
I --- (BATTERY)
I - ( PACK )
I ---
I I
I I
---- -----
I I
*
(SOLAR IGNITER)
52. How to Start A Conference w/o 2600hz or M-F by The Jolly Roger
This method of starting the conf. Depends on your ability to bullshit the operator into dialing a number which can only be reached with an operator's M-F tones. When bullshitting the operator remember operator's are not hired to think but to do.
Here is a step-by-step way to the conf.:
Call the operator through a pbx or extender, you could just call one Through your line but I wouldn't recommend it.
Say to the operator: TSPS maintenance engineer, ring-forward to 213+080+1100, position release, thank you.(she will probably ask you for the number again) Definitions:
Ring-forward instructs her to dial the number.
Position release instructs her to release the trunk after she has dialed the number.
+ - remember to say 213plus080 plus1100.
3. When you are connected with the conf. You will here a whistle blow twice and a recording asking you for your operator number. Dial in any five digits and hit the pounds sign a couple of times. Simply dial in the number of the billing line ect. When the recording ask for it. When in the control mode of the conf. Hit '6' to transfer control. Hit '001' to reenter the number of conferee's and time amount which you gave when you stared the conf. Remember the size can be from 2-59 conferee's. I have not found out the 'lengths' limits.
53. How to Make Dynamite by The Jolly Roger
Dynamite is nothing more than just nitroglycerin and a stabilizing agent to make it much safer to use. The numbers are percentages, be sure to mix these carefully and be sure to use the exact amounts. These percentages are in weight ratio, not volume.
Number Ingredients Amount
1st Nitroglycerin 32%
Sodium Nitrate 28%
Woodmeal 10%
Ammonium Oxalate 29%
Guncotton 1%
2nd Nitroglycerin 24%
Potassium Nitrate 9%
Sodium Nitrate 56%
Woodmeal 9%
Ammonium Oxalate 2%
3rd Nitroglycerin 35½%
Potassium Nitrate 44½%
Woodmeal 6%
Guncotton 2½%
Vaseline 5½%
Powdered Charcoal 6%
4th Nitroglycerin 25%
Potassium Nitrate 26%
Woodmeal 34%
Barium Nitrate 5%
Starch 10%
5th Nitroglycerin 57%
Potassium Nitrate 19%
Woodmeal 9%
Ammonium Oxalate 12%
Guncotton 3%
6th Nitroglycerin 18%
Sodium Nitrate 70%
Woodmeal 5½%
Potassium Chloride 4½%
Chalk 2%
7th Nitroglycerin 26%
Woodmeal 40%
Barium Nitrate 32%
Sodium Carbonate 2%
8th Nitroglycerin 44%
Woodmeal 12%
Anhydrous Sodium Sulfate 44%
9th Nitroglycerin 24%
Potassium Nitrate 32½%
Woodmeal 33½%
Ammonium Oxalate 10%
10th Nitroglycerin 26%
Potassium Nitrate 33%
Woodmeal 41%
11th Nitroglycerin 15%
Sodium Nitrate 62.9%
Woodmeal 21.2%
Sodium Carbonate .9%
12th Nitroglycerin 35%
Sodium Nitrate 27%
Woodmeal 10%
Ammonium Oxalate 1%
13th Nitroglycerin 32%
Potassium Nitrate 27%
Woodmeal 10%
Ammonium Oxalate 30%
Guncotton 1%
14th Nitroglycerin 33%
Woodmeal 10.3%
Ammonium Oxalate 29%
Guncotton .7%
Potassium Perchloride 27%
15th Nitroglycerin 40%
Sodium Nitrate 45%
Woodmeal 15%
16th Nitroglycerin 47%
Starch 50%
Guncotton 3%
17th Nitroglycerin 30%
Sodium Nitrate 22.3%
Woodmeal 40½%
Potassium Chloride 7.2%
18th Nitroglycerin 50%
Sodium Nitrate 32.6%
Woodmeal 17%
Ammonium Oxalate .4%
19th Nitroglycerin 23%
Potassium Nitrate 27½%
Woodmeal 37%
Ammonium Oxalate 8%
Barium Nitrate 4%
Calcium Carbonate ½%
If you can't seem to get one or more of the ingredients try another one. If you still can't, you can always buy small amounts from your school, or maybe from various chemical companies. When you do that, be sure to say as little as possible, if during the school year, and they ask, say it's for a experiment for school.
54. Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower by The Jolly Roger
For this one, all you need is a car, a spark plug, ignition wire and a switch. Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches of the tail pipe by drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily. Attach the wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be careful that no one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20 feet!!!
55. Breaking into BBS Express by The Jolly Roger
If you have high enough access on any BBS Express BBS you can get the Sysop's password without any problems and be able to log on as him and do whatever you like. Download the Pass file, delete the whole BBS, anything. Its all a matter of uploading a text file and downloading it from the BBS. You must have high enough access to see new uploads to do this. If you can see a file you just uploaded you have the ability to break into the BBS in a few easy steps. Why am I telling everyone this when I run BBS Express myself? Well there is one way to stop this from happening and I want other Sysops to be aware of it and not have it happen to them. Breaking in is all based on the MENU function of BBS Express. Express will let you create a menu to display different text files by putting the word MENU at the top of any text file and stating what files are to be displayed. But due to a major screw up by Mr. Ledbetter you can use this MENU option to display the USERLOG and the Sysop's Passwords or anything else you like. I will show you how to get the Sysop's pass and therefore log on as the Sysop. BBs Express Sysop's have 2 passwords. One like everyone else gets in the form of X1XXX, and a Secondary password to make it harder to hack out the Sysops pass. The Secondary pass is found in a file called SYSDATA.DAT. This file must be on drive 1 and is therefore easy to get.
All you have to do is upload this simple Text file:
MENU
1
D1:SYSDATA.DAT
Rip-off time!
After you upload this file you download it non-Xmodem. Stupid Express thinks
it is displaying a menu and you will see this:
Rip-off time!
Selection [0]:
Just hit 1 and Express will display the SYSDATA.DAT file. OPPASS is where the Sysop's Secondary pass will be. D1:USERLOG.DAT is where you will find the name and Drive number of the USERLOG.DAT file. The Sysop might have renamed this file or put it in a Subdirectory or even on a different drive. I Will Assume he left it as D1:USERLOG.DAT. The other parts of this file tell you where the .HLP screens are and where the LOG is saved and all the Download path names.
Now to get the Sysop's primary pass you upload a text file like this:
MENU
1
D1:USERLOG.DAT
Breaking into Bedwetter's BBS
Again you then download this file non-Xmodem and you will see:
Breaking into Bedwetter's BBS
Selection [0]:
You then hit 1 and the long USERLOG.DAT file comes flying at you. The Sysop is the first entry in this very long file so it is easy. You will see:
SYSOP'S NAME X1XXX
You should now have his 2 passwords.
There is only one easy way out of this that I can think of, and that is to make all new uploads go to SYSOP level (Level 9) access only. This way nobody can pull off what I just explained. I feel this is a major Bug on Mr. Ledbetter's part. I just don't know why no one had thought of it before. I would like to give credit to Redline for the message he left on Modem Hell telling about this problem, and also to Unka for his ideas and input about correcting it.
56. Firebombs by The Jolly Roger
Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel soaked rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The original Molotov cocktail, and still about the best, was a mixture of one part gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil helps it to cling to what it splatters on. Some use one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire bombs have been found which were made by pouring melted wax into gasoline.
57. Fuse Ignition Bomb by The Jolly Roger
A four strand homemade fuse is used for this. It burns like fury. It is held down and concealed by a strip of bent tin cut from a can. The exposed end of the fuse is dipped into the flare igniter. To use this one, you light the fuse and hold the fire bomb until the fuse has burned out of sight under the tin. Then throw it and when it breaks, the burning fuse will ignite the contents.
58. Generic Bomb by The Jolly Roger
1. Acquire a glass container.
2. Put in a few drops of gasoline.
3. Cap the top.
4. Now turn the container around to coat the inner surfaces and then evaporates.
5. Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (Get this stuff from a snake bite kit)
6. The bomb is detonated by throwing against a solid object.
After throwing this thing, run like hell. This thing packs about ½ stick of dynamite.
59. Green Box Plans by the Jolly Roger
Paying the initial rate in order to use a red box (on certain fortresses) left a sour taste in many red boxers mouths, thus the green box was invented. The green box generates useful tones such as COIN COLLECT, COIN RETURN, AND RINGBACK. These are the tones that ACTS or the TSPS operator would send to the CO when appropriate. Unfortunately, the green box cannot be used at the fortress station but must be used by the CALLED party.
Here are the tones:
COIN COLLECT 700+1100hz
COIN RETURN 1100+1700hz
RINGBACK 700+1700hz
Before the called party sends any of these tones, an operator release signal should be sent to alert the MF detectors at the CO. This can be done by sending 900hz + 1500hz or a single 2600 wink (90 ms.) Also do not forget that the initial rate is collected shortly before the 3 minute period is up. Incidentally, once the above MF tones for collecting and returning coins reach the CO, they are converted into an appropriate DC pulse (-130 volts for return and +130 for collect). This pulse is then sent down the tip to the fortress. This causes the coin relay to either return or collect the coins. The alleged "T-network" takes advantage of this information. When a pulse for coin collect (+130 VDC) is sent down the line, it must be grounded somewhere. This is usually the yellow or black wire. Thus, if the wires are exposed, these wires can be cut to prevent the pulse from being grounded. When the three minute initial period is almost up, make sure that the black and yellow wires are severed, then hang up, wait about 15 seconds in case of a second pulse, reconnect the wires, pick up the phone, and if all goes well, it should be "JACKPOT" time.
60. Portable Grenade Launcher by The Jolly Roger
If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule from an aluminum arrow, and fill the arrow with black powder (I use grade FFFF, it burns easy)and then glue a shotshell primer into the hole left where the ferrule went. Next, glue a BB on the primer, and you are ready to go! Make sure no one is nearby.... Little shreds of aluminum go all over the place!!
61. Hacking Tutorial by The Jolly Roger
What is hacking?
According to popular belief the term hacker and hacking was founded at MIT it comes from the root of a hack writer, someone who keeps "hacking" at the typewriter until he finishes the story. A computer hacker would be hacking at the keyboard or password works.
What you need:
To hack you need a computer equipped with a modem (a device that lets you transmit data over phone lines) which should cost you from $100 to $1200.
How do you hack?
Hacking requires two things:
1. The phone number.
2. Answer to identity elements.
How do you find the phone number?
There are three basic ways to find a computers phone number:
1. Scanning
2. Directory
3. Inside info
What is scanning?
Scanning is the process of having a computer search for a carrier tone. For example, the computer would start at (800) 111-1111 and wait for carrier if there is none it will go on to 111-1112 etc. If there is a carrier it will record it for future use and continue looking for more.
What is directory assistance?
This way can only be used if you know where your target computer is. For this
example say it is in menlo park, CA and the company name is Sri.
1. Dial 411 (or 415-555-1212)
2. Say "Menlo park"
3. Say "Sri"
4. Write down number
5. Ask if there are any more numbers
6. If so write them down.
7. Hang up on operator
8. Dial all numbers you were given
9. Listen for carrier tone
10. If you hear carrier tone write down number, call it on your modem and your set to hack!
62. The Basics of Hacking II by The Jolly Roger
Basics to know before doing anything, essential to your continuing career as one of the elite in the country... This article, "The introduction to the world of hacking." is meant to help you by telling you how not to get caught, what not to do on a computer system, what type of equipment should I know about now, and just a little on the history, past present future, of the hacker.
Welcome to the world of hacking! We, the people who live outside of the normal rules, and have been scorned and even arrested by those from the 'civilized world', are becoming scarcer every day. This is due to the greater fear of what a good hacker (skill wise, no moral judgments here) can do nowadays, thus causing anti- hacker sentiment in the masses. Also, few hackers seem to actually know about the computer systems they hack, or what equipment they will run into on the front end, or what they could do wrong on a system to alert the 'higher' authorities who monitor the system. This article is intended to tell you about some things not to do, even before you get on the system. I will tell you about the new wave of front end security devices that are beginning to be used on computers. I will attempt to instill in you a second identity, to be brought up at time of great need, to pull you out of trouble. And, by the way, I take no, repeat, no, responsibility for what we say in this and the forthcoming articles.
Enough of the bullshit, on to the fun: after logging on your favorite bbs, you see on the high access board a phone number! It says it's a great system to "fuck around with!" This may be true, but how many other people are going to call the same number? So: try to avoid calling a number given to the public. This is because there are at least every other user calling, and how many other boards will that number spread to? If you call a number far, far away, and you plan on going through an extender or a re-seller, don't keep calling the same access number (I.E. As you would if you had a hacker running), this looks very suspicious and can make life miserable when the phone bill comes in the mail. Most cities have a variety of access numbers and services, so use as many as you can. Never trust a change in the system... The 414's, the assholes, were caught for this reason: when one of them connected to the system, there was nothing good there. The next time, there was a trek game stuck right in their way! They proceeded to play said game for two, say two and a half hours, while telenet was tracing them! Nice job, don't you think? If anything looks suspicious, drop the line immediately!! As in, yesterday!! The point we're trying to get across is: if you use a little common sense, you won't get busted. Let the little kids who aren't smart enough to recognize a trap get busted, it will take the heat off of the real hackers. Now, let's say you get on a computer
system... It looks great, checks out, everything seems fine. OK, now is when it gets more dangerous. You have to know the computer system to know what not to do. Basically, keep away from any command something, copy a new file into the account, or whatever! Always leave the account in the same status you logged in with. Change *nothing*... If it isn't an account with priv's, then don't try any commands that require them! All, yes all, systems are going to be keeping log files of what users are doing, and that will show up. It is just like dropping a trouble-card in an ESS system, after sending that nice operator a pretty tone. Spend no excessive amounts of time on the account in one stretch. Keep your calling to the very late night if possible, or during business hours (believe it or not!). It so happens that there are more users on during business hours, and it is very difficult to read a log file with 60 users doing many commands every minute. Try to avoid systems where everyone knows each other, don't try to bluff. And above all: never act like you own the system, or are the best there is. They always grab the people who's heads swell... There is some very interesting front end equipment around nowadays, but first let's define terms... By front end, we mean any device that you must pass through to get at the real computer. There are devices that are made to defeat hacker programs, and just plain old multiplexers. To defeat hacker programs, there are now devices that pick up the phone and just sit there... This means that your device gets no carrier, thus you think there isn't a computer on the other end. The only way around it is to detect when it was picked up. If it picks up after the same number ring, then you know it is a hacker-defeater. These devices take a multi-digit code to let you into the system. Some are, in fact, quite sophisticated to the point where it will also limit the user name's down, so only one name or set of names can be valid logins after they input the code... Other devices input a number code, and then they dial back a pre-programmed number for that code. These systems are best to leave alone, because they know someone is playing with their phone. You may think "but I'll just reprogram the dial-back." Think again, how stupid that is... Then they have your number, or a test loop if you were just a little smarter. If it's your number, they have your balls (if male...), if its a loop, then you are screwed again, since those loops
are *monitored*. As for multiplexers... What a plexer is supposed to do is this:
The system can accept multiple users. We have to time share, so we'll let the front-end processor do it... Well, this is what a multiplexer does. Usually they will ask for something like "enter class" or "line:". Usually it is programmed for a double digit number, or a four to five letter word. There are usually a few sets of numbers it accepts, but those numbers also set your 300/1200/2400 baud data type. These multiplexers are inconvenient at best, so not to worry. A little about the history of hacking: hacking, by my definition, means a great knowledge of some special area. Doctors and lawyers are hackers of a sort, by this definition. But most often, it is being used in the computer context, and thus we have a definition of "anyone who has a great amount of computer or telecommunications knowledge." You are not a hacker because you have a list of codes... Hacking, by my definition, has then been around only about 15 years. It started, where else but, MIT and colleges where they had computer science or electrical engineering departments. Hackers have created some of the best computer languages, the most awesome operating systems, and even gone on to make millions. Hacking used to have a good name, when we could honestly say "we know what we are doing". Now it means (in the public eye): the 414's, Ron Austin, the NASA hackers, the arpanet hackers... All the people who have been caught, have done damage, and are now going to have to face fines and sentences. Thus we come past the moralistic crap, and to our purpose: educate the hacker community, return to the days when people actually knew something...
63. Hacking DEC's by The Jolly Roger
In this article you will learn how to log in to dec's, logging out, and all the fun stuff to do in-between. All of this information is based on a standard dec system. Since there are dec systems 10 and 20, and I favor, the dec 20, there will be more info on them in this article. It just so happens that the dec 20 is also the more common of the two, and is used by much more interesting people (if you know what I mean...) OK, the first thing you want to do when you are receiving carrier from a dec system is to find out the format of login names. You can do this by looking at who is on the system.
Dec=> ` (the 'exec' level prompt)
you=> sy
sy: short for sy(stat) and shows you the system status.
You should see the format of login names. A systat usually comes up in this form:
Job Line Program User
Job: The job number (not important unless you want to log them off later)
Line: What line they are on (used to talk to them...) These are both two or three digit numbers.
Program: What program are they running under? If it says 'exec' they aren't doing anything at all...
User: ahhhahhhh! This is the user name they are logged in under... Copy the format, and hack yourself outa working code... Login format is as such:
dec=> `
you=> login username password
Username is the username in the format you saw above in the systat. After you hit the space after your username, it will stop echoing characters back to your screen. This is the password you are typing in... Remember, people usually use their name, their dog's name, the name of a favorite character in a book, or something like this. A few clever people have it set to a key cluster (qwerty or asdfg). Passwords can be from 1 to 8 characters long, anything after that is ignored. You are finally in... It would be nice to have a little help, wouldn't it? Just type a ? Or the word help, and it will give you a whole list of topics... Some handy characters for you to know would be the control keys, wouldn't it? Backspace on a dec 20 is rub which is 255 on your ASCII chart. On the dec 10 it is control-H. To abort a long listing or a program, control-C works fine. Use Control-O to stop long output to the terminal. This is handy when playing a game, but you don't want to control-C out. Control-T for the time. Control-u will kill the whole line you are typing at the moment. You may accidentally run a program where the only way out is a control-X, so keep that in reserve. Control-s to stop listing, control-Q to continue on both systems. Is your terminal having trouble?? Like, it pauses for no reason, or it doesn't backspace right? This is because both systems support many terminals, and you haven't told it what yours is yet... You are using a VT05 so you need to tell it you are one.
Dec=> `
you=> information terminal
-or-
You=> info
(This shows you what your terminal is set up as.)
Dec=>all sorts of shit, then the `
you=> set ter vt05
(This sets your terminal type to VT05.)
Now let's see what is in the account (here after abbreviated acct.) that you have hacked onto. Say:
=> dir
(Short for directory.)
It shows you what the user of the code has save to the disk. There should be a format like this: xxxxx.Oooxxxxx is the file name, from 1 to 20 characters long. Ooo is the file type, one of: exe, txt, dat, bas, cmd and a few others that are system dependant. Exe is a compiled program that can be run (just by typing its name at the `)
Txt is a text file, which you can see by typing:
=>type xxxxx.Txt
Do not try to:
=>type xxxxx.Exe
(This is very bad for your terminal and will tell you absolutely nothing.)
Dat is data they have saved.
Bas is a basic program, you can have it typed out for you.
Cmd is a command type file, a little too complicated to go into here. Try:
=>take xxxxx.Cmd
By the way, there are other users out there who may have files you can use.
(Gee, why else am I here?)
=> dir <*.*> (Dec 20)
=> dir [*,*] (Dec 10)
* is a wildcard, and will allow you to access the files on other accounts if the user has it set for public access. If it isn't set for public access, then you won't see it. To run that program:
dec=> `
you=> username program-name
Username is the directory you saw the file listed under, and file name was what else but the file name? ** You are not alone ** remember, you said (at the very start) sy short for systat, and how we said this showed the other users on the system? Well, you can talk to them, or at least send a message to anyone you see listed in a systat. You can do this by:
dec=> the user list (from your systat)
you=> talkusername (Dec 20)
send username (Dec 10)
Talk allows you and them immediate transmission of whatever you/they type to be sent to the other. Send only allow you one message to be sent, and send, they will send back to you, with talk you can just keep going. By the way, you may be noticing with the talk command that what you type is still acted upon by the parser (control program). To avoid the constant error messages type either:
you=> ;your message
you=> rem your message
the semi-colon tells the parser that what follows is just a comment. Rem is short for 'remark' and ignores you from then on until you type a control-Z or control-C, at which point it puts you back in the exec mode. To break the connection from a talk command type:
you=> break priv's:
If you happen to have privs, you can do all sorts of things. First of all, you have to activate those privs.
You=> enable
This gives you a $ prompt, and allows you to do this: whatever you can do to your own directory you can now do to any other directory. To create a new acct. Using your privs, just type:
=>build username
If username is old, you can edit it, if it is new, you can define it to be whatever you wish. Privacy means nothing to a user with privs. By the way, there are various levels of privs: operator, wheel, cia. Wheel is the most powerful, being that he can log in from anywhere and have his powers. Operators have their power because they are at a special terminal allowing them the privs. Cia is short for 'confidential information access', which allows you a low level amount of privs. Not to worry though, since you can read the system log file, which also has the passwords to all the other accounts.
To de-activate your privs, type:
you=> disable
when you have played your greedy heart out, you can finally leave the
system with the command:
=>logout
This logs the job you are using off the system (there may be varients of this such as kjob, or killjob.)
64. Harmless Bombs by The Jolly Roger
To all those who do not wish to inflict bodily damage on their victims but only terror. These are weapons that should be used from high places.
1. The Flour Bomb
Take a wet paper towel and pour a given amount of baking flour in the center. Then wrap it up and put on a rubber band to keep it together. When thrown it will fly well but when it hits, it covers the victim with the flower or causes a big puff of flour which will put the victim in terror since as far as they are concerned, some strange white powder is all over them. This is a cheap method of terror and for only the cost of a roll of paper towels and a bag of flour you and your friends can have loads of fun watching people flee in panic.
2. Smoke Bomb Projectile
All you need is a bunch of those little round smoke bombs and a wrist rocket or any sling-shot. Shoot the smoke bombs and watch the terror since they think it will blow up!
3. Rotten Eggs (Good ones)
Take some eggs and get a sharp needle and poke a small hole in the top of each one. Then let them sit in a warm place for about a week. Then you've got a bunch of rotten eggs that will only smell when they hit.
4. Glow in the Dark Terror
Take one of those tubes of glow in the dark stuff and pour the stuff on whatever you want to throw and when it gets on the victim, they think it's some deadly chemical or a radioactive substance so they run in total panic. This works especially well with flower bombs since a gummy, glowing substance gets all over the victim.
5. Fizzling Panic
Take a baggy of a water-baking soda solution and seal it. (Make sure there is no air in it since the solution will form a gas and you don't want it to pop on you.) Then put it in a bigger plastic bag and fill it with vinegar and seal it. When thrown, the two substances will mix and cause a violently bubbling substance to go all over the victim.
65. Breaking Into Houses by The Jolly Roger
Okay You Need:
1. Tear Gas or Mace
2. A BB/Pellet Gun
3. An Ice Pick
4. Thick Gloves
What You Do Is:
1. Call the house, or ring doorbell, to find out if they're home.
2. If they're not home then...
3. Jump over the fence or walk through gate (whatever).
4. If you see a dog give him the mace or tear gas.
5. Put the gloves on!!!!!!!
6. Shoot the BB gun slightly above the window locks.
7. Push the ice-pick through the hole (made by the BB gun).
8. Enter window.
9. FIRST...Find the LIVING ROOM. (there're neat things there!).
10. Goto the bedroom to get a pillow case. Put the goodies in the pillow case.
11. Get out <-* FAST! -*>
Notes: You should have certain targets worked out (like computers, Radios, Ect.) Also <-* NEVER *-> Steal from your own neighborhood. If you think they have an alarm...<-* FORGET IT! *->.
66. A Guide to Hypnotism by The Jolly Roger
What hypnotism is?
Hypnotism, contrary to common belief, is merely state when your mind and body are in a state of relaxation and your mind is open to positive, or cleverly worded negative, influences. It is not a trance where you:
· Are totally influenceable.
· Cannot lie.
· A sleep which you cannot wake up from without help.
This may bring down your hope somewhat, but, hypnotism is a powerful for self help, and/or mischief.
Your subconscious mind
Before going in further, I'd like to state that hypnotism not only is great in the way that it relaxes you and gets you (in the long run) what you want, but also that it taps a force of incredible power, believe it or not, this power is your subconscious mind. The subconscious mind always knows what is going on with every part of your body, every moment of the day. It protects you from negative influences, and retains the power to slow your heartbeat down and stuff like that. The subconscious mind holds just about all the info you would like to know
About yourself, or, in this case, the person you will be hypnotizing. There are many ways to talk to your subconscious and have it talk back to you. One way is the ouja board, no its not a spirit, merely the minds of those who are using it. Another, which I will discuss here, is the pendulum method. OK, here is how it goes. First, get a ring or a washer and tie it to a thread a little longer than half of your forearm. Now, take a sheet of paper and draw a big circle in it. In the big circle you must now draw a crosshair (a big +). Now, put the sheet of paper on a table. Next, hold the thread with the ring or washer on it and place it (holding the thread so that the ring is 1 inch above the paper swinging) in the middle of the crosshair. Now, swing the thread so the washer goes up and down, say to yourself the word "Yes" now, do it side to side and say the word "no". Do it counter clockwise and say "I don't know". And lastly, do it clockwise and say "I don't want to say." Now, with the thread back in the middle of the crosshair, ask yourself questions and wait for the pendulum to swing in the direction for the answer. (yes, no, I don't know or I don't want to say...). Soon, to your amazement, it will be answering questions like anything... Let the pendulum answer, don't try.. When you try you will never get an answer. Let the answer come to you.
How to induce hypnotism
Now that you know how to talk to your subconscious mind, I will now tell you how to guide someone into hypnosis. Note that I said guide, you can never, hypnotize someone, they must be willing. OK, the subject must be lying or sitting in a comfortable position, relaxed, and at a time when things aren't going to be interrupted. Tell them the following or something close to it, in a peaceful, monotonous tone (not a commanding tone of voice)
Note: Light a candle and place it somewhere where it can be easily seen.
"Take a deep breath through your nose and hold it in for a count of 8. Now, through your mouth, exhale completely and slowly. Continued breathing long, deep, breaths through your nose and exhaling through your mouth. Tense up all your muscles very tight, now, counting from ten to one, release them slowly, you will find them very relaxed. Now, look at the candle, as you look at it, with every breath and passing moment, you are feeling increasingly more and more peaceful and relaxed. The candles flame is peaceful and bright. As you look at it I will count from 100 down, as a count, your eyes will become more and more relaxed, getting more and more tired with each passing moment." Now, count down from 100, about every 10 numbers say "When I reach xx your eyes (or you will find your eyes) are becoming more and more tired." Tell them they may close their eyes whenever they feel like it. If the persons eyes are still open when you get to 50 then instead of saying "your eyes will.." Say "your eyes are...". When their eyes are shut say the following. As you lie (or sit) here with your eyes comfortably close you find yourself relaxing more and more with each moment and breath. The relaxation feels pleasant and blissful so, you happily give way to this wonderful feeling. Imagine yourself on a cloud, resting peacefully, with a slight breeze caressing your body. A tingling sensation begins to work its way, within and without your toes, it slowly moves up your feet, making them warm, heavy and relaxed. The cloud is soft and supports your body with its soft texture, the scene is peaceful and absorbing, the peacefulness absorbs you completely. The tingling gently and slowly moves up your legs, relaxing them. Making them warm and heavy. The relaxation feels very good, it feels so good to relax and let go. As the tingling continues its journey up into your solar plexus, you feel your inner stomach become very relaxed. Now, it moves slowly into your chest, making your breathing relaxed as well. The feeling begins to move up your arms to your shoulders, making your arms heavy and relaxed as well. You are aware of the total relaxation you are now experiencing, and you give way to it. It is good and peaceful, the tingling now moves into your face and head, relaxing your jaws, neck, and facial muscles, making your cares and worries float away. Away into the blue sky as you rest blissfully on the cloud. If they are not responsive or you think they (he or she) is going to sleep, then add in a "...always concentrating upon my voice, ignoring all other sounds. Even though other sounds exists, they aid you in your relaxation..." They should soon let out a sigh as if they were letting go, and their face should have a "woodiness" to it, becoming featureless... Now, say the following "... You now find yourself in a hallway, the hallway is peaceful and nice. As I count from 10 to 1 you will imagine yourself walking further and further down the hall. When I reach one you will find yourself where you want to be, in another, higher state of conscious and mind. (count from ten to one)..." Do this about three or four times. Then, to test if the subject is under hypnosis or not, say "... You feel a strange sensation in your (arm they write with) arm, the feeling begins at your fingers and slowly moves up your arm, as it moves through your arm your arm becomes lighter and lighter, it will soon be so light it will ... becoming lighter and lighter which each breath and moment..." Their fingers should begin to twitch and then move up, the arm following, now my friend, you have him/her in hypnosis. The first time you do this, while he/she is under say good things, like: "Your going to feel great tomorrow" or "Every day in every way you will find yourself becoming better and better".. Or some crap like that... The more they go under, the deeper in hypnosis they will get each time you do it.
What to do when hypnotized
When you have them under you must word things very carefully to get your way. You cannot simply say... Take off your clothes and fuck the pillow. No, that would not really do the trick. You must say something like.... "you find your self at home, in your room and you have to take a shower (vividly describe their room and what's happening), you begin to take off your clothes..." Now, it can't be that simple, you must know the persons house, room, and shower room. Then describe things vividly and tell them to act it out (they have to be deeply under to do this). I would just suggest that you experiment a while, and get to know how to do things.
Waking up
Waking up is very easy, just say "...as I count from 1 to 5 you will find yourself becoming more and more awake, more and more lively. When you wake up you will find yourself completely alive, awake, and refreshed. Mentally and physically, remembering the pleasant sensation that hypnosis brings... Waking up feeling like a new born baby, reborn with life and vigor, feeling excellent. Remembering that next time you enter hypnosis it will become an ever increasing deeper and deeper state than before.
1. You feel energy course throughout your limbs.
2. You begin to breathe deeply, stirring.
3. Beginning to move more and more your eyes open, bringing you up to full conscious.
4. You are up, up, up and awakening more and more.
5. You are awake and feeling great.
And that's it! You now know how to hypnotize yourself and someone else.
You will learn more and more as you experiment.
67. The Remote Informer Issue #1 by Tracker and Noman Bates
Introduction
Welcome to the first issue of 'The Remote Informer'! This newsletter is reader supported. If the readers of this newsletter do not help support it, then it will end. We are putting this out to help out the ones that would like to read it. If you are one of those who thinks they know everything, then don't bother reading it. This newsletter is not anything like the future issues. The future issues will contain several sections, as long as reader input is obtained. Below is an outline overview of the sections in the future issues.
I/O Board (Input/Output Board)
The I/O Board is for questions you have, that we might be able to answer or at least refer you to someone or something. We will be honest if we cannot help you. We will not make up something, or to the effect, just to make it look like we answered you. There will be a section in the I/O Board for questions we cannot answer, and then the readers will have the opportunity to answer it. We will print anything that is reasonable in the newsletter, even complaints if you feel like you are better than everyone.
NewsCenter
This section will be for news around the underworld. It will talk of busts of people in the underworld and anything else that would be considered news. If you find articles in the paper, or something happens in your local area, type it up, and upload it to one of the boards listed at the end of the newsletter. Your handle will be placed in the article. If you do enter a news article, please state the date and from where you got it.
Feature Section
The Feature Section will be the largest of the sections as it will be on the topic that is featured in that issue. This will be largely reader input which will be sent in between issues. At the end of the issue at hand, it will tell the topic of the next issue, therefore, if you have something to contribute, then you will have ample time to prepare your article.
Hardware/Software Review
In this section, we will review the good and bad points of hardware and software related to the underworld. It will be an extensive review, rather than just a small paragraph.
The Tops
This section will be the area where the top underworld BBS's, hacking programs, modem scanners, etc. will be shown. This will be reader selected and will not be altered in anyway. The topics are listed below.
· Underworld BBS's (Hack, Phreak, Card, Anarchy, etc.)
· Hacking programs for Hayes compatables
· Hacking programs for 1030/Xm301 modems
· Modem scanners for Hayes compatables
· Modem scanners for 1030/Xm301 modems
· Other type illegal programs
· You may add topics to the list if enough will support it.
Tid Bits
This will contain tips and helpful information sent in by the users. If you have any information you wish to contribute, then put it in a text file and upload it to one of the BBS's listed at the end of the newsletter. Please, no long distance codes, mainframe passwords, etc. We may add other sections as time goes by. This newsletter will not be put out on a regular basis. It will be put out when we have enough articles and information to put in it. There may be up to 5 a month, but there will always be at least one a month. We would like you, the readers, to send us anything you feel would be of interest to others, like hacking hints, methods of hacking long distance companies, companies to card from, etc. We will maintain the newsletter as long as the readers support it. That is the end of the introduction, but take a look at this newsletter, as it does contain information that may be of value to you.
Hacking Sprint: The Easy Way
If you hack US Sprint, 950-0777 (by the way it is no longer GTE Sprint), and you are frustrated at hacking several hours only to find one or two codes, then follow these tips, and it will increase your results tremendously. First, one thing that Mr. Mojo proved is that Sprint will not store more than one code in every hundred numbers. (ex: 98765400 to 98765499 may contain only one code). There may NOT be a code in that hundred, but there will never be more than one. Sprint's 9 digit codes are stored from 500000000 through 999999999. In the beginning of Sprint's 950 port, they only had 8 digit codes. Then they started converting to 9 digit codes, storing all 8 digit codes between 10000000 and 49999999 and all 9 digit codes between 500000000 and 999999999. Sprint has since canceled most 8 digit codes, although there are a few left that have been denoted as test codes. Occasionally, I hear of phreaks saying they have 8 digit codes, but when verifying them, the codes were invalid. Now, where do you start? You have already narrowed the low and high numbers in half, therefore already increasing your chances of good results by 50 percent. The next step is to find a good prefix to hack. By the way, a prefix, in hacking terms, is the first digits in a code that can be any length except the same number of digits the code is. (ex: 123456789 is a code. That means 1, 12, 123, 1234, 12345, 123456, 1234567, and 12345678 are prefixes) The way you find a good prefix to hack is to manually enter a code prefix. If when you enter the code prefix and a valid destination number and you do not hear the ringing of the recording telling you that the code is invalid until near the end of the number, then you know the prefix is valid. Here is a chart to follow when doing this:
Code - Destination Range good codes exist
-------------------------------------------------
123456789 - 6192R 123400000 - 123499999
123456789 - 619267R 123450000 - 123459999
123456789 - 61926702R 123456000 - 123456999
123456789 - 6192670293R 123456700 - 123456799
-------------------------------------------------
( R - Denotes when ring for recording starts)
To prove this true, I ran a test using OmniHack 1.3p, written by Jolly Joe. In this test I found a prefix where the last 3 digits were all I had to hack. I tested each hundred of the 6 digit prefix finding that all but 4 had the ring start after the fourth digit was dialed in the destination number. The other four did not ring until I had finished the entire code. I set OmniHack to hack the prefix + 00 until prefix + 99. (ex: xxxxxxy00 to xxxxxxy99: where y is one of the four numbers that the ring did not start until the dialing was completed.) Using this method, I found four codes in a total of 241 attempts using ascending hacking (AKA: Sequential). Below you will see a record of my hack:
Range of hack Codes found Tries
xxxxxx300 - xxxxxx399 xxxxxx350 50
xxxxxx500 - xxxxxx599 xxxxxx568 68
xxxxxx600 - xxxxxx699 xxxxxx646 46
xxxxxx800 - xxxxxx899 xxxxxx877 77
Totals 4 codes 241
As you see, these methods work. Follow these guidelines and tips and you should have an increase in production of codes in the future hacking Sprint. Also, if you have any hints/tips you think others could benefit from, then type them up and upload them to one of the boards at the end of the newsletter.
Rumors: Why Spread Them?
Do you ever get tired of hearing rumors? You know, someone gets an urge to impress others, so they create a rumor that some long distance company is now using tracing equipment. Why start rumors? It only scares others out of phreaking, and then makes you, the person who started the rumor, look like Mr. Big. This article is short, but it should make you aware of the rumors that people spread for personal gain. The best thing to do is to denote them as a rumor starter and then leave it at that. You should not rag on them constantly, since if the other users cannot determine if it is fact or rumor, then they should suffer the consequences.
The New Sprint FON Calling Cards
US Sprint has opened up a new long distance network called the Fiber Optic Network (FON), in which subscribers are given calling cards. These calling cards are 14 digits, and though, seem randomly generated, they are actually encrypted. The rumors floating around about people getting caught using the Sprint FON calling cards are fact, not rumors. The reason people are getting caught is that they confuse the FON calling cards with the local 950 port authorization codes. If you will remember, you never use AT&T calling cards from you home phone. It has ANI capability, which is not tracing, but rather the originating phone number is placed on the bill as soon as the call is completed. They know your phone number when you call the 800 access port, but they do not record it until your call is completed. Also, through several of my hacks, I came up with some interesting information surrounding the new Sprint network. They are listed below.
800-877-0000 - This number is for information on US Sprint's 800 calling card service. I have not played around with it, but I believe it is for trouble or help with the FON calling cards. I am not sure if it is for subscribing to the FON network.
800-877-0002 - You hear a short tone, then nothing.
800-877-0003 - US Sprint Alpha Test Channel #1
800-877-(0004-0999) - When you call these numbers, you get a recording saying: "Welcome to US Sprint's 1 plus service." When the recording stops, if you hit the pound key (#) you will get the calling card dial tone.
Other related Sprint numbers
800-521-4949 - This is the number that you subscribe to US Sprint with. You may also subscribe to the FON network on this number. It will take 4 to 5 weeks for your calling card to arrive.
10777 - This is US Sprint's equal access number. When you dial this number, you then dial the number you are calling, and it will be billed through US Sprint, and you will receive their long distance line for that call. Note that you will be billed for calls made through equal access. Do not mistake it to be a method of phreaking, unless used from a remote location. If you are in US Sprint's 1+ service then call 1+700-555-1414, which will tell you which long distance company you are using. When you hear: "Thank you for choosing US Sprint's 1 plus service," hit the pound key (#), and then you will get the US Sprint dial tone. This however is just the same as if you are calling from your home phone if you dial direct, so you would be billed for calls made through that, but there are ways to use this to your advantage as in using equal access through a PBX.
Automatic Number Identification (ANI)
The true definition for Automatic Number Identification has not been widely known to many. Automatic Number Identification, (AKA: ANI), is the process of the destination number knowing the originating number, which is where you are calling from. The method of achieving this is to send the phone number that you are calling from in coded form ahead of the destination number. Below is an example of this.
ANI Method
Dial: 267-0293
Sent: ********2670293
* - Denotes the originating number which is coded and sent before the
number
As you noticed there are 8 digits in the coded number. This is because, at least I believe, it is stored in a binary-like form. Automatic Number Identification means a limited future in phreaking. ANI does not threaten phreaking very much yet, but it will in the near future. A new switching system will soon be installed in most cities that are covered by ESS, Electronic Switching System, now. The system will have ANI capabilities which will be supplied to the owners of phone lines as an added extra. The owner's phone will have an LED read-out that will show the phone number of the people that call you. You will be able to block some numbers, so that people cannot call you. This system is in the testing stages currently, but will soon be installed across most of the country. As you see, this will end a large part of phreaking, until we, the phreakers, can come up with an alternative. As I have been told by several, usually reliable, people, this system is called ISS, which I am not sure of the meaning of this, and is being tested currently in Rhode Island. 800 in-watts lines set up by AT&T support ANI. The equipment to decode an ANI coded origination number does not costs as much as you would expect. 950 ports do not offer ANI capability, no matter what you have been told. The 950 ports will only give the city in which they are based, this usually being the largest in the state, sometimes the capitol. One last thing that I should tell you is that ANI is not related to tracing. Tracing can be done on any number whether local, 950, etc. One way around this, especially when dialing Alliance TeleConferencing, is to dial through several extenders or ports. ANI will only cover the number that is calling it, and if you call through a number that does not support ANI, then your number will never be known.
68. Jackpotting ATM Machines by The Jolly Roger
JACKPOTTING was done rather successfully a while back in (you guessed it) New York. What the culprits did was sever (actually cross over) the line between the ATM and the host. Insert a microcomputer between the ATM and the host. Insert a fraudulent card into the ATM. (By card I mean cash card, not hardware.) What the ATM did was: send a signal to the host, saying "Hey! Can I give this guy money, or is he broke, or is his card invalid?" What the microcomputer did was: intercept the signal from the host, discard it, send "there's no one using the ATM" signal. What the host did was: get the "no one using" signal, send back "okay, then for God's sake don't spit out any money!" signal to ATM. What the microcomputer did was intercept the signal (again), throw it away (again), send "Wow! That guy is like TOO rich! Give him as much money as he wants. In fact, he's so loaded, give him ALL the cash we have! He is really a valued customer." signal. What the ATM did: what else? Obediently dispense cash till the cows came home (or very nearly so). What the crooks got was well in excess of $120,000 (for one weekend's work), and several years when they were caught. This story was used at a CRYPTOGRAPHY conference I attended a while ago to demonstrate the need for better information security. The lines between ATM's & their hosts are usually 'weak' in the sense that the information transmitted on them is generally not encrypted in any way. One of the ways that JACKPOTTING can be defeated is to encrypt the information passing between the ATM and the host. As long as the key cannot be determined from the ciphertext, the transmission (and hence the transaction) is secure. A more believable, technically accurate story might concern a person who uses a computer between the ATM and the host to determine the key before actually fooling the host. As everyone knows, people find cryptanalysis a very exciting and engrossing subject..don't they? (Hee-Hee)
_____ ______
| |-<<-| |-<<-| |
|ATM| micro |Host|
|___|->>-| |->>-|____|
The B of A ATM's are connected through dedicated lines to a host computer as the Bishop said. However, for maintenance purposes, there is at least one separate dial-up line also going to that same host computer. This guy basically BS'ed his way over the phone till he found someone stupid enough to give him the number. After finding that, he had has Apple hack at the code. Simple.
Next, he had a friend go to an ATM with any B of A ATM card. He stayed at home with the Apple connected to the host. When his friend inserted the card, the host displayed it. The guy with the Apple modified the status & number of the card directly in the host's memory. He turned the card into a security card, used for testing purposes. At that point, the ATM did whatever it's operator told it to do.
The next day, he went into the bank with the $2000 he received, talked to the manager and told him every detail of what he'd done. The manager gave him his business card and told him that he had a job waiting for him when he got out of school.
Now, B of A has been warned, they might have changed the system. On the other hand, it'd be awful expensive to do that over the whole country when only a handful of people have the resources and even less have the intelligence to duplicate the feat. Who knows?
69. Jug Bomb by The Jolly Roger
Take a glass jug, and put 3 to 4 drops of gasoline into it. Then put the cap on, and swish the gas around so the inner surface of the jug is coated. Then add a few drops of potassium permanganate solution into it and cap it. To blow it up, either throw it at something, or roll it at something.
70. Fun at K-Mart by The Jolly Roger
Well, first off, one must realize the importance of K-Marts in society today. First off, K-Marts provide things cheaper to those who can't afford to shop at higher quality stores. Although, all I ever see in there is minorities and Senior Citizens, and the poor people in our city. Personally, I wouldn't be caught dead in there. But, once, I did. You see, once, after The Moon Roach and Havoc Chaos (Dear friends of mine) and I were exploring such fun things as rooftops, we came along a K-Mart. Amused, and cold for that matter, we wandered in. The Tension mounts. As we walked up to the entrance, we were nearly attacked by Youth Groups selling cheap cookies, and wheelchair sticken people selling American Flags. After laughing at these people, we entered. This is where the real fun begins... First, we wandered around the store, and turned on all the blue lights we could find. That really distracts and confuses the attendents...Fun to do... The first neat thing, is to go to the section of the store where they sell computers. Darkness engulfs the earth the day they find Apple Computers being sold there. Instead, lesser computers like the laughable C-64 can be found there...Turn it on, and make sure nobody's looking...Then, once in Basic, type...
]10 PRINT "Fuck the world! Anarchy Rules!" (or something to that effect.)
]20 GOTO 10 and walk away.
Also, set the sample radios in the store to a satanic rock station, and turn the radio off. Then, set the alarm for two minutes ahead of the time displayed there. Turn the volume up all the way, and walk away. After about two minutes, you will see the clerk feebly attempt to turn the radio down or off. It's really neat to set ten or more radios to different stations, and walk away. One of my favorite things to do, is to get onto the intercom system of the store. Easier typed then done. First, check out the garden department. You say there's no attendent there? Good. Sneak carefully over to the phone behind the cheap counter there, and pick it up. Dial the number corresponding to the item that says 'PAGE'... And talk. You will note that your voice will echo all over the bowels of K-Mart. I would suggest announcing something on the lines of: "Anarchy rules!!"
71. Mace Substitute by The Jolly Roger
· 3 parts Alcohol
· ½ part Iodine
· ½ part Salt
-or-
· 3 parts Alcohol
· 1 part Iodized Salt (Mortons)
It's not actual mace, but it does a damn good job on the eyes...
72. How to grow Marijuana by The Jolly Roger
MARIJUANA
Marijuana is a deciduous plant which grows from seeds. The fibrous section of the plant was (has been replaced by synthetics) used to make rope. The flowering tops, leaves, seeds, and resin of the plant is used by just about everyone to get HIGH. Normally, the vegetable parts of the plant are smoked to produce this "high," but they can also be eaten. The active ingredient in marijuana resin is THC (Tetahydrocannabinol). Marijuana contains from 1%-4% THC (4% must be considered GOOD dope). Marijuana grows wild in many parts of the world, and is cultivated in Mexico, Vietnam, Africa, Nepal, India, South America, etc. The marijuana sold in the United States comes primarily from, yes, the United States. It is estimated that at least 50% of the grass on the streets in America is homegrown. The next largest bunch comes across the borders from Mexico, with smaller amounts filtering in from Panama, occasionally South America, and occasionally, Africa. Hashish is the pure resin of the marijuana plant, which is scraped from the flowering tops of the plant and lumped together. Ganja is the ground-up tops of the finest plants. (It is also the name given to any sort of marijuana in Jamaica.) Marijuana will deteriorate in about two years if exposed to light, air or heat. It should always be stored in cool places. Grass prices in the United States are a direct reflection of the laws of supply and demand (and you thought that high school economics would never be useful). A series of large border busts, a short growing season, a bad crop, any number of things can drive the price of marijuana up. Demand still seems to be on the increase in the US, so prices seldom fall below last year's level. Each year a small seasonal drought occurs, as last year's supply runs low, and next year's crop is not up yet. Prices usually rise about 20%-75% during this time and then fall back to "normal." Unquestionably, a large shortage of grass causes a percentage of smokers to turn to harder drugs instead. For this reason, no grass control program can ever be beneficial or "successful."
GROW IT!
There is one surefire way of avoiding high prices and the grass DT's: Grow your own. This is not as difficult as some "authorities" on the subject would make you believe. Marijuana is a weed, and a fairly vivacious one at that, and it will grow almost in spite of you.
OUTDOORS
Contrary to popular belief, grass grows well in many place on the North American continent. It will flourish even if the temperature does not raise above 75°. The plants do need a minimum of eight hours of sunlight per day and should be planted in late April/early May, BUT DEFINITELY, after the last frost of the year. Growing an outdoor, or "au naturel", crop has been the favored method over the years, because grass seems to grow better without as much attention when in its natural habitat. Of course, an outdoors setting requires special precautions not encountered with an indoors crop; you must be able to avoid detection, both from law enforcement freaks and common freaks, both of whom will take your weed and probably use it. Of course, one will also arrest you. You must also have access to the area to prepare the soil and harvest the crop. There are two schools of thought about starting the seeds. One says you should start the seedlings for about ten days in an indoor starter box (see the indoor section) and then transplant. The other theory is that you should just start them in the correct location. Fewer plants will come up with this method, but there is no shock of transplant to kill some of the seedlings halfway through. The soil should be prepared for the little devils by turning it over a couple of times and adding about one cup of hydrated lime per square yard of soil and a little bit (not too much, now) of good water soluble nitrogen fertilizer. The soil should now be watered several times and left to sit about one week. The plants should be planted at least three feet apart, getting too greedy and stacking them too close will result in stunted plants. The plants like some water during their growing season, BUT not too much. This is especially true around the roots, as too much water will rot the root system. Grass grows well in corn or hops, and these plants will help provide some camouflage. It does not grow well with rye, spinach, or pepperweed. It is probably a good idea to plant in many small, broken patches, as people tend to notice patterns.
GENERAL GROWING INFO
Both the male and he female plant produce THC resin, although the male is not as strong as the female. In a good crop, the male will still be plenty smokable and should not be thrown away under any circumstances. Marijuana can reach a height of twenty feet (or would you rather wish on a star) and obtain a diameter of 4½ inches. If normal, it has a sex ratio of about 1:1, but this can be altered in several ways. The male plant dies in the 12th week of growing, the female will live another 3-5 weeks to produce her younguns. Females can weigh twice as much as males when they are mature. Marijuana soil should compact when you squeeze it, but should also break apart with a small pressure and absorb water well. A nice test for either indoor or outdoor growing is to add a bunch of worms to the soil, if they live and hang around, it is good soil, but if they don't, well, change it. Worms also help keep the soil loose enough for the plants to grow well.
SEEDS
To get good grass, you should start with the right seeds. A nice starting point is to save the seeds form the best batch you have consumed. The seeds should be virile, that is, they should not be gray and shriveled up, but green, meaty, and healthy appearing. A nice test is to drop the seeds on a hot frying pan. If they "CRACK," they are probably good for planting purposes. The seeds should be soaked in distilled water overnight before planting. BE SURE to plant in the ground with the pointy end UP. Plant about ½" deep. Healthy seeds will sprout in about five days.
SPROUTING
The best all around sprouting method is probably to make a sprouting box (as sold in nurseries) with a slated bottom or use paper cups with holes punched in the bottoms. The sprouting soil should be a mixture of humus, soil, and five sand with a bit of organic fertilizer and water mixed in about one week before planting. When ready to transplant, you must be sure and leave a ball of soil around the roots of each plant. This whole ball is dropped into a baseball-sized hold in the permanent soil. If you are growing/transplanting indoors, you should use a green safe light (purchased at nurseries) during the transplanting operation. If you are transplanting outdoors, you should time it about two hours before sunset to avoid damage to the plant. Always wear cotton gloves when handling the young plants. After the plants are set in the hole, you should water them. It is also a good idea to use a commercial transplant chemical (also purchased at nurseries) to help then overcome the shock.
INDOOR GROWING
Indoor growing has many advantages, besides the apparent fact that it is much harder to have your crop "found," you can control the ambient conditions just exactly as you want them and get a guaranteed "good" plant. Plants grown indoors will not appear the same as their outdoor cousins. They will be scrawnier appearing with a weak stems and may even require you to tie them to a growing post to remain upright, BUT THEY WILL HAVE AS MUCH OR MORE RESIN! If growing in a room, you should put tar paper on the floors and then buy sterilized bags of soil form a nursery. You will need about one cubic foot of soil for each plant. The plants will need about 150 mL. of water per plant/per week. They will also need fresh air, so the room must be ventilated. (However, the fresh air should contain NO TOBACCO smoke.) At least eight hours of light a day must be provided. As you increase the light, the plants grow faster and show more females/less males. Sixteen hours of light per day seems to be the best combination, beyond this makes little or no appreciable difference in the plant quality. Another idea is to interrupt the night cycle with about one hour of light. This gives you more females. The walls of your growing room should be painted white or covered with aluminum foil to reflect the light. The lights themselves can be either bulbs of fluorescent. Figure about 75 watts per plant or one plant per two feet of fluorescent tube. The fluorescents are the best, but do not use "cool white" types. The light sources should be an average of twenty inches from the plant and NEVER closer than 14 inches. They may be mounted on a rack and moved every few days as the plants grow. The very best light sources are those made by Sylvania and others especially for growing plants (such as the "gro lux" types).
HARVESTING AND DRYING
The male plants will be taller and have about five green or yellow sepals, which will split open to fertilize the female plant with pollen. The female plant is shorter and has a small pistillate flower, which really doesn't look like a flower at all but rather a small bunch of leaves in a cluster. If you don't want any seeds, just good dope, you should pick the males before they shed their pollen as the female will use some of her resin to make the seeds. After another three to five weeks, after the males are gone, the females will begin to wither and die (from loneliness?), this is the time to pick. In some nefarious Middle Eastern countries, farmers reportedly put their beehives next to fields of marijuana. The little devils collect the grass pollen for their honey, which is supposed to contain a fair dosage of THC. The honey is then enjoyed by conventional methods or made into ambrosia. If you want seeds - let the males shed his pollen then pick him. Let the female go another month and pick her. To cure the plants, they must be dried. On large crops, this is accomplished by constructing a drying box or drying room. You must have a heat source (such as an electric heater) which will make the box/room each 130°. The box/room must be ventilated to carry off the water-vapor-laden air and replace it with fresh. A good box can be constructed from an orange crate with fiberglass insulated walls, vents in the tops, and screen shelves to hold the leaves. There must be a baffle between the leaves and the heat source. A quick cure for smaller amounts is to: cut the plant at the soil level and wrap it in a cloth so as not to loose any leaves. Take out any seeds by hand and store. Place all the leaves on a cookie sheet or aluminum foil and put them in the middle shelf of the oven, which is set on "broil." In a few seconds, the leaves will smoke and curl up, stir them around and give another ten seconds before you take them out.
TO INCREASE THE GOOD STUFF
There are several tricks to increase the number of females, or the THC content of plants: You can make the plants mature in 36 days if you are in a hurry, by cutting back on the light to about 14 hours, but the plants will not be as big. You should gradually shorten the light cycle until you reach fourteen hours. You can stop any watering as the plants begin to bake the resin rise to the flowers. This will increase the resin a bit. You can use a sunlamp on the plants as they begin to develop flower stalks. You can snip off the flower, right at the spot where it joins the plant, and a new flower will form in a couple of weeks. This can be repeated two or three times to get several times more flowers than usual.
If the plants are sprayed with Ethrel early in their growing stage, they will produce almost all female plants. This usually speeds up the flowering also, it may happen in as little as two weeks. You can employ a growth changer called colchicine. This is a bit hard to get and expensive. (Should be ordered through a lab of some sort and costs about $35 a gram.) To use the colchicine, you should prepare your presoaking solution of distilled water with about 0.10 per cent colchicine. This will cause many of the seeds to die and not germinate, but the ones that do come up will be polyploid plants. This is the accepted difference between such strains as "gold" and normal grass, and yours will DEFINITELY be superweed. The problem here is that colchicine is a poison in larger quantities and may be poisonous in the first generation of plants. Bill Frake, author of CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA runs a very complete colchicine treatment down and warns against smoking the first generation plants (all succeeding generations will also be polyploid) because of this poisonous quality. However, the Medical Index shows colchicine being given in very small quantities to people for treatment if various ailments. Although these quantities are small, they would appear to be larger than any you could receive form smoking a seed-treated plant. It would be a good idea to buy a copy of CONNOISSEUR'S, if you are planning to attempt this, and read Mr. Drake's complete instructions. Another still-experimental process to increase the resin it to pinch off the leaf tips as soon as they appear from the time the plant is in the seedling stage on through its entire life-span. This produces a distorted, wrecked-looking plant which would be very difficult to recognize as marijuana. Of course, there is less substance to this plant, but such wrecked creatures have been known to produce so much resin that it crystallizes a strong hash all over the surface of the plant - might be wise to try it on a plant or two and see what happens.
PLANT PROBLEM CHART
Always check the overall environmental conditions prior to passing judgment - soil around 7 pH or slightly less - plenty of water, light, fresh air, loose soil, no water standing in pools.
SYMPTOM PROBABLY PROBLEM/CURE
Larger leaves turning yellow - smaller leaves still green. Nitrogen deficiency - add nitrate of soda or organic fertilizer.
Older leaves will curl at edges, turn dark, possibly with a purple cast. Phosphorous deficiency - add commercial phosphate.
Mature leaves develop a yellowish cast to least venial areas. Magnesium deficiency - add commercial fertilizer with a magnesium content.
Mature leaves turn yellow and then become spotted with edge areas turning dark gray. Potassium deficiency - add muriate of potash.
Cracked stems, no healthy support tissue. Boron deficiency - add any plant food containing boron.
Small wrinkled leaves with yellowish vein systems. Zinc deficiency - add commercial plant food containing zinc.
Young leaves become deformed, possibly yellowing. Molybdenum deficiency - use any plant food with a bit of molybdenum in it.
EXTRA SECTION: BAD WEED/GOOD WEED
Can you turn bad weed into good weed? Surprisingly enough, the answer to this often-asked inquiry is, yes! Like most other things in life, the amount of good you are going to do relates directly to how much effort you are going to put into it. There are no instant, supermarket products which you can spray on Kansas catnip and have wonderweed, but there are a number of simplified, inexpensive processes (Gee, Mr. Wizard!) which will enhance mediocre grass somewhat, and there are a couple of fairly involved processes which will do up even almost-parsley weed into something worth writing home about.
EASES
1. Place the dope in a container which allows air to enter in a restricted fashion (such as a can with nail holes punched in its lid) and add a bunch of dry ice, and the place the whole shebang in the freezer for a few days. This process will add a certain amount of potency to the product, however, this only works with dry ice, if you use normal, everyday freezer ice, you will end up with a soggy mess...
2. Take a quantity of grass and dampen it, place in a baggy or another socially acceptable container, and store it in a dark, dampish place for a couple of weeks (burying it also seems to work). The grass will develop a mold which tastes a bit harsh, a and burns a tiny bit funny, but does increase the potency.
3. Expose the grass to the high intensity light of a sunlamp for a full day or so. Personally, I don't feel that this is worth the effort, but if you just spent $400 of your friend's money for this brick of super-Colombian, right-from-the-President's-personal-stash, and it turns out to be Missouri weed, and you're packing your bags to leave town before the people arrive for their shares, well, you might at least try it. Can't hurt.
4. Take the undesirable portions of our stash (stems, seeds, weak weed, worms, etc.) and place them in a covered pot, with enough rubbing alcohol to cover everything. Now CAREFULLY boil the mixture on an ELECTRIC stove or lab burner. DO NOT USE GAS - the alcohol is too flammable. After 45 minutes of heat, remove the pot and strain the solids out, SAVING THE ALCOHOL. Now, repeat the process with the same residuals, but fresh alcohol. When the second boil is over, remove the solids again, combine the two quantities of alcohol and reboil until you have a syrupy mixture. Now, this syrupy mixture will contain much of the THC formerly hidden in the stems and such. One simply takes this syrup the thoroughly combines it with the grass that one wishes to improve upon.
SPECIAL SECTION ON RELATED SUBJECT MARYGIN
Marygin is an anagram of the words marijuana and gin, as in Eli Whitney. It is a plastic tumbler which acts much like a commercial cotton gin. One takes about one ounce of an herb and breaks it up. This is then placed in the Marygin and the protruding knob is rotated. This action turns the internal wheel, which separates the grass from the debris (seeds, stems). It does not pulverize the grass as screens have a habit of doing and is easily washable.
Marygin is available from:
P.O. Box 5827
Tuscon, Arizona 85703
$5.00
GRASS
Edmund Scientific Company
555 Edscorp Building
Barrington, New Jersy 08007
Free Catalog is a wonder of good things for the potential grass grower. They have an electric thermostat greenhouse for starting plants. Lights which approximate the true color balance of the sun and are probably the most beneficial types available: 40 watt, 48 inch Indoor sun bulb, 75 or 150 watt And, they have a natural growth regulator for plants (Gibberellin) which can change height, speed growth, and maturity, promote blossoming, etc. Each plant reacts differently to treatment with Gibberellin...there's no fun like experimenting.
SUGGESTED READING
THE CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA, Bill Drake
Straight Arrow Publishing - $3½0
625 Third Street
San Francisco, California
FLASH
P.O.Box 16098
San Fransicso, California 94116
Stocks a series of pamphlets on grass, dope manufacture, cooking. Includes the Mary Jane Superweed series.
73. Match Head Bomb by The Jolly Roger
Simple safety match heads in a pipe, capped at both ends, make a devastating bomb. It is set off with a regular fuse. A plastic baggy is put into the pipe before the heads go in to prevent detonation by contact with the metal. Cutting enough match heads to fill the pipe can be tedious work for one but an evening's fun for the family if you can drag them away from the TV.
74. How To Terrorize McDonalds by The Jolly Roger
Now, although McDonalds is famous for it's advertising and making the whole world think that the BigMac is the best thing to come along since sliced bread (buns?), each little restaurant is as amateur and simple as a new-found business. Not only are all the employees rather inexperienced at what they're supposed to do, but they will just loose all control when an emergency occurs....here we go!!! First, get a few friends (4 is good...I'll get to this later) and enter the McDonalds restaurant, talking loudly and reeking of some strange smell that automatically makes the old couple sitting by the door leave. If one of those pimply-faced goons is wiping the floor, then track some crap all over it (you could pretend to slip and break your head, but you might actually do so). Next, before you get the food, find a table. Start yelling and releasing some strange body odor so anybody would leave their table and walk out the door. Sit two friends there, and go up to the counter with another. Find a place where the line is short, or if the line is long say "I only wanna buy a coke." and you get moved up. Now, you get to do the ordering ...heh heh heh. Somebody always must want a plain hamburger with absolutely nothing on it (this takes extra time to make, and drives the little hamburger-makers insane)..order a 9-pack of chicken McNuggets...no, a 20 pack...no, three 6 packs...wait...go back to the table and ask who wants what. Your other friend waits by the counter and makes a pass at the female clerk. Get back to the thing and order three 6-packs of chicken etc....now she says "What kind of sauce would you like?". Of course, say that you all want barbecue sauce one of your friends wants 2 (only if there are only 2 containers of barbecue sauce left). Then they hafta go into the storeroom and open up another box. Finally, the drinks...somebody wants coke, somebody root beer, and somebody diet coke. After these are delivered, bring them back and say "I didn't order a diet coke! I ordered a sprite!" This gets them mad; better yet, turn down something terrible that nobody wants to drink, so they hafta throw the drink away; they can't sell it. After all the food(?) is handed to you, you must never have enough money to pay. The clerk will be so angry and confused that she'll let you get away with it (another influence on her is your friend asking her "If you let us go, I'll go out with you." and giving her a fake fone number). Now, back to your table. But first, somebody likes ketchup and mustard. And plenty (too much) of napkins. Oh, and somebody likes forks and knives, so always end up breaking the ones you pick outta the box. Have your friends yell out, ôYay!!!!! We have munchies!!" As loud as they can. That'll worry the entire restaurant. Proceed to sit down. So, you are sitting in the smoking section (by accident) eh? Well, while one of the tobacco-breathers isn't looking, put a sign from the other side of the room saying "Do not smoke here" and he'll hafta move...then he goes into the real non-smoking section, and gets yelled at. He then thinks that no smoking is allowed in the restaurant, so he eats outside (in the pouring rain) after your meal is finished (and quite a few splattered-opened ketchup packets are all over your table), try to leave. But oops! Somebody has to do his duty in the men's room. As he goes there, he sticks an uneaten hamburger (would you dare to eat one of their hamburgers?) Inside the toilet, flushes it a while, until it runs all over the bathroom. Oops! Send a pimply-faced teenager to clean it up. (He won't know that brown thing is a hamburger, and he'll get sick. Wheee!) As you leave the restaurant, looking back at your uncleaned table, somebody must remember that they left their chocolate shake there! The one that's almost full!!!! He takes it then says "This tastes like crap!", Then he takes off the lid and throws it into the garbage can...oops! He missed, and now the same poor soul who's cleaning up the bathroom now hasta clean up chocolate shake. Then leave the joint, reversing the "Yes, we're open" sign (as a reminder of your visit) There you have it! You have just put all of McDonalds into complete mayhem. And since there is no penalty for littering in a restaurant, bugging people in a public eatery (or throw-upery, in this case) you get off scot-free. Wasn't that fun?
75. "Mentor's Last Words" by +++The Mentor+++
The following file is being reprinted in honor and sympathy for the many phreaks and hackers that have been busted recently by the Secret Service.
The Conscience of a Hacker
Another one got caught today, it's all over the papers. "Teenager Arrested in Computer Crime Scandal", "Hacker Arrested after Bank Tampering"... Damn kids. They're all alike. But did you, in your three-piece psychology and 1950's technobrain, ever take a look behind the eyes of the hacker? Did you ever wonder what made him tick, what forces shaped him, what may have molded him? I am a hacker, enter my world... Mine is a world that begins with school... I'm smarter than most of the other kids, this crap they teach us bores me... Damn underachiever. They're all alike. I'm in junior high or high school. I've listened to teachers explain for the fifteenth time how to reduce a fraction. I understand it. "No, Ms. Smith, I didn't show my work. I did it in my head..." Damn kid. Probably copied it. They're all alike. I made a discovery today. I found a computer. Wait a second, this is cool. It does what I want it to. If it makes a mistake, it's because I screwed it up. Not because it doesn't like me or feels threatened by me or thinks I'm a smart ass or doesn't like teaching and shouldn't be here...damn kid. All he does is play games. They're all alike. And then it happened. A door opened to a world. Rushing through the phone line like heroin through an addict's veins, an electronic pulse is sent out, a refuge from the day-to-day incompetencies is sought... a board is found. "This is it... this is where I belong..." I know everyone here... even if I've never met them, never talked to them, may never hear from them again... I know you all... Damn kid. Tying up the phone line again. They're all alike... You bet your ass we're all alike... we've been spoon-fed baby food at school when we hungered for steak... the bits of meat that you did let slip through were pre-chewed and tasteless. We've been dominated by sadists, or ignored by the apathetic. The few that had something to teach found us willing pupils, but those few are like drops of water in the desert.
This is our world now... the world of the electron and the switch, the beauty of the baud. We make use of a service already existing without paying for what could be dirt-cheap if it wasn't run by profiteering gluttons, and you call us criminals. We explore... and you call us criminals. We seek after knowledge... and you call us criminals. We exist without skin color, without nationality, without religious bias... and you call us criminals. You build atomic bombs, you wage wars, you murder, cheat, and lie to us and try to make us believe it's for our own good, yet we're the criminals.
Yes, I am a criminal. My crime is that of curiosity. My crime is that of judging people by what they say and think, not what they look like. My crime is that of outsmarting you, something that you will never forgive me for. I am a hacker, and this is my manifesto. You may stop this individual, but you can't stop us all... after all, we're all alike.
+++The Mentor+++
May the members of the phreak community never forget his words -JR
76. The Myth of the 2600hz Detector by The Jolly Roger
Just about everyone I talk to these days about ESS seems to be scared witless about the 2600hz detector. I don't know who thought this one up, but it simply does not exist. So many of you people whine about this so-called phreak catching device for no reason. Someone with AT&T said they had it to catch phreakers. This was just to scare the blue-boxers enough to make them quit boxing free calls. I'm not saying ESS is without its hang-ups, either. One thing that ESS can detect readily is the kick-back that the trunk circuitry sends back to the ESS machine when your little 2600hz tone resets the toll trunk. After an ESS detects a kickback it turns an M-F detector on and records any M-F tones transmitted.
Defeating the kick-back detector
As mentioned in my previous note, kick-back detection can be a serious nuisance to anyone interested in gaining control of a trunk line. The easiest way to by-pass this detection circuitry is not really by-passing it at all, it is just letting the kick-back get detected on some other line. This other line is your local MCI, sprint, or other long distance carrier (except AT&T). The only catch is that the service you use must not disconnect the line when you hit the 2600hz tone. This is how you do it: call up your local extender, put in the code, and dial a number in the 601 area code and the 644 exchange. Lots of other exchanges work across the country, I'm sure, but this is the only one that I have found so far. Anyway, when it starts ringing, simply hit 2600Hz and you'll hear the kick-back, (ka-chirp, or whatever). Then you are ready to dial whoever you want (conferences, inward, route and rate, overseas, etc.) From the trunk line in operator tones! Since blowing 2600Hz doesn't make you a phreaker until the toll equipment resets the line, kickback detection is the method AT&T chooses (for now) this information comes as a result of my experiments & experience and has been verified by local AT&T employees I have as acquaintances. They could only say that this is true for my area, but were pretty sure that the same idea is implemented across the country.
Now that you know how to access a trunk line or as operators say a loop, I will tell you the many things you can do with it. Here is a list of AT&T services accessible to you by using a blue box.
A/C+101 TOLL SWITCHING
A/C+121 INWARD OPERATOR
A/C+131 INFORMATION
A/C+141 ROUTE & RATE OP.
A/C+11501 MOBILE OPERATOR
A/C+11521 MOBILE OPERATOR
Starting conferences:
This is one the most useful attributes of blue boxing. Now the confs. are up 24 hours/day and 7 days/week and the billing lines are being billed. Since I believe the above is true (about the billing lines being billed) I would recommend that you never let your number show up on the conf. If you started it, put it on a loop and then call the loop. Enough bullshit!!!!! To start the conf. Dial one of these three numbers in m-f while you are on the trunk.
213+080+XXXX
XXXX=1050,3050
SPECIAL XXXX=1000,1100,1200,1500,2200,2500.
These numbers are in LA and are the most watched, I do not advise using this
NPA.
312+001+1050 OR 3050
914+042+1050 OR 1100,1200 ECT..
I believe only 914 works at the moment.
Once connected with one of these you will either hear a re-order, busy, or chirp. When you hear the chirp enter the billing line in M-F. I use the conf. dial- up. A billing line example: kp312+001+1050st you will then hear two tutes and a recording asking you for the number of conferees including yourself. Enter a number between 20 and 30. If you ever get over 30 people on a conference all you will hear is jumbled voices. After the it says "your conference size is xx" then hit the pound (#) sign. Add your favorite loop on and hit 6 to transfer control to it. After it says control will be transferred hang up and call the other side of the loop, hit the pound sign (#) and follow the instructions. A bonus for conf. is to add an international number dial 1+011+cc+number pretty cool ehhh. A few extra notes. Do not add numbers that you will want to hang up, add these through MCI or Sprint. You cannot blow anyone off with 2600hz unless they are in an old x-bar or older system. Many DA operators will stay on after you abuse them; you may have to start another or at least don't say any numbers. Never add the tone side of a loop onto a conf. never add more than one MCI node on your conf.
Route & rate:
Note route & rate and RQS perform the same service. R&R simply tells you route and rate info which is very valuable, ex. Such as the inward routing for an exchange in an area code. An inward routing will let you call her and she can do an emergency interrupt for you. She can tell you how to get international operators, ect. Here are the terms you are required to use:
International,
-Operator route for [country, city]. -gives you inward op.
-Directory route for [country, city]. -gives you directory ass.
-City route for [country, city]. -gives you country and city code.
Operator route for [a/c]+ [exchange] -gives you inward op. Route
Ex. [a/c]+ or [a/c]+0xx+ when she says plus she means plus 121.
Numbers route for [state, city] -gives you a/c.
Place name [a/c]+[exchange] -gives you city/state for that a/c and
Exchange.
International calls:
To call international over cable simply access a trunk and dial kp011xxxst wait for sender tone, kpxxxcc-numberst xxx - a 3 digit country code, it may not be 3 digits so just put 1 or 2 0's in front of it. Cc - is the city code to go by satellite:
Dial kp18xst x - numbers 2-8 wait for sender tone then Kpxxxccnumberst
77. Blue Box by The Jolly Roger
To quote Karl Marx, blue boxing has always been the most noble form of phreaking. As opposed to such things as using an MCI code to make a free fone call, which is merely mindless pseudo-phreaking, blue boxing is actual interaction with the Bell System toll network. It is likewise advisable to be more cautious when blue boxing, but the careful phreak will not be caught, regardless of what type of switching system he is under. In this part, I will explain how and why blue boxing works, as well as where. In later parts, I will give more practical information for blue boxing and routing information. To begin with, blue boxing is simply communicating with trunks. Trunks must not be confused with subscriber lines (or "customer loops") which are standard telefone lines. Trunks are those lines that connect central offices. Now, when trunks are not in use (i.e., idle or "on-hook" state) they have 2600Hz applied to them. If they are two-way trunks, there is 2600Hz in both directions. When a trunk IS in use (busy or "off-hook" state), the 2600Hz is removed from the side that is off-hook. The 2600Hz is therefore known as a supervisory signal, because it indicates the status of a trunk; on hook (tone) or off-hook (no tone). Note also that 2600Hz denoted SF (single frequency) signaling and is "in-band." This is very important. "In-band" means that is within the band of frequencies that may be transmitted over normal telefone lines. Other SF signals, such as 3700Hz are used also. However, they cannot be carried over the telefone network normally (they are "out-of-band" and are therefore not able to be taken advantage of as 2600Hz is. Back to trunks. Let's take a hypothetical phone call. You pick up your fone and dial 1+806-258-1234 (your good friend in Amarillo, Texas). For ease, we'll assume that you are on #5 Crossbar switching and not in the 806 area. Your central office (CO) would recognize that 806 is a foreign NPA, so it would route the call to the toll center that serves you. [For the sake of accuracy here, and for the more experienced readers, note that the CO in question is a class 5 with LAMA that uses out-of-band SF supervisory signaling]. Depending on where you are in the country, the call would leave your toll center (on more trunks) to another toll center, or office of higher "rank". Then it would be routed to central office 806-258 eventually and the call would be completed.
Illustration
A---CO1-------TC1------TC2----CO2----B
A.... you
CO1.. your central office
TC1.. your toll office.
TC2.. toll office in Amarillo.
CO2.. 806-258 central office.
B.... your friend (806-258-1234)
In this situation it would be realistic to say that CO2 uses SF in-band (2600Hz) signaling, while all the others use out-of-band signaling (3700Hz). If you don't understand this, don't worry. I am pointing this out merely for the sake of accuracy. The point is that while you are connected to 806-258-1234, all those trunks from YOUR central office (CO1) to the 806-258 central office (CO2) do *NOT* have 2600Hz on them, indicating to the Bell equipment that a call is in progress and the trunks are in use. Now let's say you're tired of talking to your friend in Amarillo, so you send a 2600Hz down the line. This tone travels down the line to your friend's central office (CO2) where it is detected. However, that CO thinks that the 2600Hz is originating from Bell equipment, indicating to it that you've hung up, and thus the trunks are once again idle (with 2600Hz present on them). But actually, you have not hung up, you have fooled the equipment at your friend's CO into thinking you have. Thus, it disconnects him and resets the equipment to prepare for the next call. All this happens very quickly (300-800ms for step-by-step equipment and 150-400ms for other equipment). When you stop sending 2600Hz (after about a second), the equipment thinks that another call is coming towards --> on hook, no tone -->off hook. Now that you've stopped sending 2600Hz, several things happen:
1. A trunk is seized.
2. A "wink" is sent to the CALLING end from the CALLED end indicating that the CALLED end (trunk) is not ready to receive digits yet.
3. A register is found and attached to the CALLED end of the trunk within about two seconds (max).
4. A start-dial signal is sent to the CALLING end from the CALLED end indicating that the CALLED end is ready to receive digits. Now, all of this is pretty much transparent to the blue boxer. All he really hears when these four things happen is a . So, seizure of a trunk would go something like this:
1. Send a 2600Hz
2. Terminate 2600Hz after 1-2 secs.
3. [beep][kerchunk]
Once this happens, you are connected to a tandem that is ready to obey your every command. The next step is to send signaling information in order to place your call. For this you must simulate the signaling used by operators and automatic toll-dialing equipment for use on trunks. There are mainly two systems, DP and MF. However, DP went out with the dinosaurs, so I'll only discuss MF signaling. MF (multi-frequency) signaling is the signaling used by the majority of the inter- and intra-lata network. It is also used in international dialing known as the CCITT No½ system. MF signals consist of 7 frequencies, beginning with 700Hz and separated by 200Hz. A different set of two of the 7 frequencies represent the digits 0 thru 9, plus an additional 5 special keys. The frequencies and uses are as follows:
Frequencies(Hz) Domestic International
700+900 1 1
700+1100 2 2
900+1100 3 3
700+1300 4 4
900+1300 5 5
1100+1300 6 6
700+1500 7 7
900+1500 8 8
1100+1500 9 9
1300+1500 0 0
700+1700 ST3p Code 1
900+1700 Stp Code 1
1100+1700 KP KP1
1300+1700 ST2p KP2
1500+1700 ST ST
The timing of all the MF signals is a nominal 60ms, except for KP, which should have a duration of 100ms. There should also be a 60ms silent period between digits. This is very flexible however, and most Bell equipment will accept outrageous timings. In addition to the standard uses listed above, MF pulsing also has expanded usages known as "expanded inband signaling" that include such things as coin collect, coin return, ringback, operator attached, and operator attached, and operator released. KP2, code 11, and code 12 and the ST_ps (STart "primes" all have special uses which will be mentioned only briefly here. To complete a call using a blue box once seizure of a trunk has been accomplished by sending 2600Hz and pausing for the , one must first send a KP. This readies the register for the digits that follow. For a standard domestic call, the KP would be followed by either 7 digits (if the call were in the same NPA as the seized trunk) or 10 digits (if the call were not in the same NPA as the seized trunk). [Exactly like dialing normal fone call]. Following either the KP and 7 or 10 digits, a STart is sent to signify that no more digits follow. Example of a complete call:
1. Dial 1-806-258-1234
2. Wait for a call-progress indication (such as ring,busy,recording,etc.)
3. Send 2600Hz for about 1 second.
4. Wait for about ll-progress indication (such as ring,busy,recording,etc.)
5. Send KP+305+994+9966+ST
The call will then connect if everything was done properly. Note that if a call to an 806 number were being placed in the same situation, the are code would be omitted and only KP + seven digits + ST would be sent. Code 11 and code 12 are used in international calling to request certain types of operators. KP2 is used in international calling to route a call other than by way of the normal route, whether for economic or equipment reasons. STp, ST2p, and ST3p (prime, two prime, and three prime) are used in TSPS signaling to indicate calling type of call (such as coin-direct dialing.
78. Napalm II by The Jolly Roger
[See file #021 of the Cookbook for an easy way to make it!!]
About the best fire bomb is napalm. It has a thick consistency, like jam and is best for use on vehicles or buildings. Napalms is simply one part gasoline and one part soap. The soap is either soap flakes or shredded bar soap. Detergents won't do. The gasoline must be heated in order for the soap to melt. The usual way is with a double boiler where the top part has at least a two-quart capacity. The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil and the double boiler is taken from the stove and carried to where there is no flame. Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part and allowed to heat as much as it will and the soap is added and the mess is stirred until it thickens. A better way to heat gasoline is to fill a bathtub with water as hot as you can get it. It will hold its heat longer and permit a much larger container than will the double boiler.
79. Nitroglycerin Recipe by The Jolly Roger
Like all chemists I must advise you all to take the greatest care and caution when you are doing this. Even if you have made this stuff before. This first article will give you information on making nitroglycerin, the basic ingredient in a lot of explosives such as straight dynamites, and gelatin dynamites.
Making nitroglycerin:
1. Fill a 75-milliliter beaker to the 13 mL. Level with fuming red nitric acid, of 98% pure concentration.
2. Place the beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool below room temp.
3. After it has cooled, add to it three times the amount of fuming sulferic acid (99% h2so4). In other words, add to the now-cool fuming nitric acid 39 mL. Of fuming sulferic acid. When mixing any acids, always do it slowly and carefully to avoid splattering.
4. When the two are mixed, lower their temp. By adding more ice to the bath, about 10-15°C. (Use a mercury-operated thermometer)
5. When the acid solution has cooled to the desired temperature, it is ready for the glycerin. The glycerin must be added in small amounts using a medicine dropper. (Read this step about 10 times!) Glycerin is added slowly and carefully (I mean careful!) Until the entire surface of the acid it covered with it.
6. This is a dangerous point since the nitration will take place as soon as the glycerin is added. The nitration will produce heat, so the solution must be kept below 30°C! If the solution should go above 30°C, immediately dump the solution into the ice bath! This will insure that it does not go off in your face!
7. For the first ten minutes of nitration, the mixture should be gently stirred. In a normal reaction the nitroglycerin will form as a layer on top of the acid solution, while the sulferic acid will absorb the excess water.
8. After the nitration has taken place, and the nitroglycerin has formed on the top of the solution, the entire beaker should be transferred slowly and carefully to another beaker of water. When this is done the nitroglycerin will settle at the bottom so the other acids can be drained away.
9. After removing as much acid as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerin, remove the nitroglycerin with an eyedropper and place it in a bicarbonate of soda (sodium bicarbonate in case you didn't know) solution. The sodium is an alkali and will neutralize much of the acid remaining. This process should be repeated as much as necessary using blue litmus paper to check for the presence of acid. The remaining acid only makes the nitroglycerin more unstable than it already is.
10. Finally! The final step is to remove the nitroglycerin from the bicarbonate. His is done with and eye- dropper, slowly and carefully. The usual test to see if nitration has been successful is to place one drop of the nitroglycerin on metal and ignite it. If it is true nitroglycerin it will burn with a clear blue flame.
** Caution **
Nitro is very sensitive to decomposition, heating dropping, or jarring, and may explode if left undisturbed and cool.
80. Operation: Fuckup by The Jolly Roger
This is a guide for Anarchists and can be funny for non-believers and 12 and 13 year old runts, and can be a lexicon of deadly knowledge for True Anarchists... Serious damage is intended to be dealt here. Do not try this stuff unless you want to do a lot of serious Anarchy.
[Simulation]
Asshole - 'Listen, you little teenager punk shit, shut the fuck up, or I'll knock you down!'
Anarchist - 'O.K. You can't say I didn't warn you. You don't know my rue power...' (soooo casually)
Asshole - 'Well, er, what do you mean?
Anarchist - '' As you can see, the Anarchist knows something that this asshole doesn't...
[Operation Fuckup]
Get a wheel barrel or two. Fill with gasoline. Get 16 rolls of toilet paper, unroll & drench in the gasoline. Rip to shreds in gasoline. Get asbestos gloves. Light a flare (to be punk), grab glob of saturated toilet paper (you can ignite the glob or not). Throw either flaming or dripping glob into:
· Any window (picture is the best)
· Front doors
· Rough grain siding
· Best of all, brick walls
First of all, this bitch is near impossible to get off once dried, and is a terror to people inside when lit! After this... during the night, get a pickup truck, a few wheel-barrels, and a dozen friends with shovels. The pickup can be used only for transporting people and equipment, or doing that, and carting all the dirt. When it gets around 12:00 (after the loser goes beddie - bye), dig a gargantuan hole in his front yard until about 3:00. You can either assign three or four of your friends to cart the dirt ten miles away in the pickup-bed, or bury his front door in 15' of dirt! After that is done, get three or four buckets of tar, and coat his windows. You can make an added twist by igniting the tar when you are all done and ready to run! That is if the loser has a house. If he lives inside an apartment building, you must direct the attack more toward his car, and front door. I usually start out when he goes to work...I find out what his cheap car looks like, and memorize it for future abuse...It is always fun to paint his front door (apt.) hot pink with purple polka-dots, and off-neon colors in diagonal stripes. You can also pound a few hundred or so four
inch nails into his front door (this looks like somebody really doesn't like you from the inside). Another great is to fill his keyhole with liquid steel so that after the bastard closes his door - the only way to get back in is to break it down. If you can spare it, leave him an axe - that is, implanted three inches into, and through the door! Now, this next one is difficult, but one of the best! Get a piece of wood siding that will more than cover his front door completely. Nail two by fours on the edges of the siding (all except the bottom) so you have a barge - like contraption. Make a hole at the top that will be large enough for a cement slide. Mix about six or seven LARGE bags of QUICK drying cement. Use the cement slide to fill the antechamber created by the 'barge' that is around his door. Use more two by fours to brace your little cement-filled barge, and let the little gem dry. When it is, remove the 'barge' so only a stone monolith remains that covers his door. Use any remaining cement to make a base around this so he can't just push it over. When I did this, he called the fire department, and they thought he meant wood, so they brought axes. I watched with a few dozen or so other tenants, and laughed my damn ass off! This is only his door! After he parks his car for the night, the fun really begins...I start out by opening up the car by jamming a very thin, but loack - inside and out! Then proceed to put orange-juice syrup all over the seats, so after he gets through all the other shit that you do, he will have the stickiest
seats in the world. You can then get a few Sunday papers, and crack one of the windows about four inches. Lightly crumple the papers, and continue to completely fill the inside of his car with the newspapers. A copy of the Sunday New York Times will nicely fill a Volkswagen! What is also quite amusing is to put his car on cinder blocks, slash his tires at the top, and fill them with cement! Leave the cinder blocks there so that, after he knocks the car off of them, he will get about 3 miles to the gallon with those tires, and do 0 to 60 in about two minutes! It is even more hilarious when he doesn't know why the hell why! Another is to open his hood, and then run a few wires from the sparkplugs to the METAL body. The sure is one HOT car when it is running! Now, I like to pour two pounds of sugar down his gas tank. If this doesn't blow every gasket in his engine it will do something called 'caramelizing his engine'. This is when the extreme heat turns the sugar to caramel, and you literally must completely take the engine out and apart, and clean each and every individual part! Well, if this asshole does not get the message, you had better start to get serious. If this guide was used properly & as it was intended (no, not as kindling for the fire), this asshole will either move far away, seek professional psychological help, commit suicide, or all of the above!
81. Stealing calls from payphones by The Jolly Roger
Now to make free local calls, you need a finishing nail. I highly recommend "6D E.G. FINISH C/H, 2 INCH" nails. These are about 3/32 of an inch in diameter and 2 inches long (of course). You also need a large size paper clip. By large I mean they are about 2in long (FOLDED). Then you unfold the paper clip. Unfold it by taking each piece and moving it out 90°. When it is done it should look somewhat like this:
/----------\
: :
: :
: :
: :
\-----
Now, on to the neat stuff. What you do, instead of unscrewing the glued-on mouthpiece, is insert the nail into the center hole of the mouthpiece (where you talk) and push it in with pressure or just hammer it in by hitting the nail on something. Just DON'T KILL THE MOUTHPIECE! You could damage it if you insert the nail too far or at some weird angle. If this happens then the other party won't be able to hear what you say. You now have a hole in the mouthpiece in which you can easily insert the paper clip. So, take out the nail and put in the paper clip. Then take the other end of the paper clip and shove it under the rubber cord protector at the bottom of the handset (you know, the blue guy...). This should end up looking remotely like...like this:
/----------\ Mouthpiece
: :
Paper clip --> : : /
: /---:---\
: : :
:------------>
====================\---))):
: To earpiece ->
^ ^
\-------------------->
: :
: :
Cord Blue guy
(The paper clip is shoved under the blue guy to make a good connection between the inside of the mouthpiece and the metal cord.) Now, dial the number of a local number you wish to call, sayyyy, MCI. If everything goes okay, it should ring and not answer with the "The Call You Have Made Requires a 20 Cent Deposit" recording. After the other end answers the phone, remove the paper clip. It's all that simple, see? There are a couple problems, however. One is, as I mentioned earlier, the mouthpiece not working after you punch it. If this happens to you, simply move on to the next payphone. The one you are now on is lost. Another problem is that the touch tones won't work when the paper clip is in the mouthpiece. There are two ways around this..
1. Dial the first 6 numbers. This should be done without the paper clip making the connection, i.e., one side should not be connected. Then connect the paper clip, hold down the last digit, and slowly pull the paper clip out at the mouthpiece's end.
2. Don't use the paper clip at all. Keep the nail in after you punch it. Dial the first 6 digits. Before dialing the last digit, touch the nail head to the plate on the main body of the phone, the money safe thingy..then press the last number. The reason that this method is sometimes called clear boxing is because there is another type of phone which lets you actually make the call and listen to them say "Hello, hello?" but it cuts off the mouthpiece so they can't hear you. The Clear Box is used on that to amplify your voice signals and send it through the earpiece. If you see how this is even slightly similar to the method I have just described up there, kindly explain it to ME!! Cause I don't GET IT! Anyways, this DOES work on almost all single slot, Dial Tone First payphones (Pacific Bell for sure). I do it all the time. This is the least, I STRESS *LEAST*, risky form of Phreaking.
82. Pool Fun by The Jolly Roger
First of all, you need know nothing about pools. The only thing you need know is what a pool filter looks like. If you don't know that. Second, dress casual. Preferably, in black. Visit your "friends" house, the one whose pool looks like fun!! Then you reverse the polarity of his/her pool, by switching the wires around. They are located in the back of the pump. This will have quite an effect when the pump goes on. In other words. Boooooooooooommm! That's right, when you mix + wires with - plugs, and vice- versa, the 4th of July happens again. Not into total destruction??? When the pump is off, switch the pump to "backwash". Turn the pump on and get the phuck out! When you look the next day, phunny. The pool is dry. If you want permanent damage, yet no great display like my first one mentioned, shut the valves of the pool off. (There are usually 2) One that goes to the main drain and one that goes to the filter in the pool. That should be enough to have one dead pump. The pump must take in water, so when there isn't any... Practical jokes: these next ones deal with true friends and
there is *no* permanent damage done. If you have a pool, you must check the pool with chemicals. There is one labeled orthotolidine. The other is labeled alkaline (pH). You want orthotolidine. (It checks the chlorine). Go to your local pool store and tell them you're going into the pool business, and to sell you orthotolidine (a CL detector) Buy this in great quantities if possible. The solution is clear. You fill 2 baggies with this chemical. And sew the bags to the inside of your suit. Next, go swimming with your friend! Then open the bags and look like you're enjoying a piss. And anyone there will turn a deep red! They will be embarrassed so much, Especially if they have guests there! Explain what it is, then add vinegar to the pool. Only a little. The "piss" disappears.
83. Free Postage by The Jolly Roger
The increasing cost of postage to mail letters and packages is bringing down our standard of living. To remedy this deplorable situation, some counter control measures can be applied. For example, if the stamps on a letter are coated with Elmer's Glue by the sender, the cancellation mark will not destroy the stamp: the Elmer's drives to form an almost invisible coating that protects the stamps from the cancellation ink. Later, the receiver of the letter can remove the cancellation mark with water and reuse the stamps. Furthermore, ecological saving will also result from recycling the stamps. Help save a tree. The glue is most efficiently applied with a brush with stiff, short bristles. Just dip the brush directly into the glue and spread it on evenly, covering the entire surface of the stamp. It will dry in about 15 minutes. For mailing packages, just follow the same procedure as outlined above; however, the package should be weighed and checked to make sure that it has the correct amount of postage on it before it is taken to the Post Office. Removing the cancellation and the glue from the stamps can be easily accomplished by soaking the stamps in warm water until they float free from the paper. The stamps can then be put onto a paper towel to dry. Processing stamps in large batches saves time too. Also, it may be helpful to write the word 'Elmer' at the top of the letter (not on the envelope) to cue the receiving party in that the stamps have been protected with the glue. We all know that mailing packages can be expensive. And we also know that the handicapped are sometimes discriminated against in jobs. The Government, being the generous people they are, have given the blind free postal service. Simply address you envelope as usual, and make one modification. In the corner where the stamp would go, write in (or stamp) the words 'FREE MATTER FOR THE BLIND". Then drop you package or letter in one of the blue federal mailboxes. DO NOT TAKE THE LETTER TO THE POST OFFICE, OR LEAVE IT IN YOUR MAILBOX. Sounds very nice of the government to do this, right? Well, they aren't that nice. The parcel is sent library rate, that is below third class. It may take four to five days to send a letter to just the next town. This too is quite simple, but less effective. Put the address that you are sending the letter to as the return address. If you were sending a $20 donation to the pirate's Chest, you would put our address (PO box 644, Lincoln MA 01773) as the return address. Then you would have to be careless and forget to put the stamp on the envelope. A nice touch is to put a bullshit address in the center of the envelope. Again, you MUST drop the letter in a FEDERAL mailbox. If the post office doesn't send the letter to the return address for having no stamp, they will send it back for the reason of "No such address".
Example:
Pirates Chest Dept. 40DD
P.O. Box 644865
Lincol, Ma. 41773
Tom Bullshit
20 Fake Road
What Ever, XX 99851
One last thing you might try doing is soaking a canceled stamp off of an envelope, and gluing it onto one you are sending. Then burn the stamp, leaving a little bit to show that there was one there.
84. Unstable Explosives by The Jolly Roger
Mix solid Nitric Iodine with household ammonia. Wait overnight and then pour off the liquid. You will be left with a muddy substance. Let this dry till it hardens. Now throw it at something!!!!
85. Weird Drugs by The Jolly Roger
Bananas:
1. Obtain 15 pounds of ripe yellow bananas.
2. Peel all and eat the fruit. Save the peelings.
3. Scrape all the insides of the peels with a sharp knife.
4. Put all the scraped material in a large pot and add water.
5. Boil 3 or 4 hours until it has attained a solid paste consistency.
6. Spread paste onto cookie sheets and dry in oven for about 20 minutes. This will result in fine black powder. Usually one will feel the effects after smoking three to four cigarettes.
Cough syrup:
Mix Robitussion AC with an equal amount of ginger ale and drink. The effect are sedation and euphoria. Never underestimate the effects of any drug! You can OD on cough syrup!
Toads:
1. Collect five to ten toads, frogs will not work. The best kind are tree toads.
2. Kill them as painlessly as possible, and skin immediately.
3. Allow the skins to dry in a refrigerator four to five days, or until the skins are brittle.
4. Now crush the skins into powder and smoke. Due to its bad taste you can mix it with a more fragrant smoking medium.
Nutmeg:
1. Take several whole nutmegs and grind them up in an old grinder.
2. After the nutmegs are ground. Place in a mortar and pulverize with a pestle.
3. The usual dosage is about 10 or 15 grams. A larger dose may produce excessive thirst, anxiety, and rapid heart beat, but hallucinations are rare.
Peanuts:
1. Take 1 pound of raw peanuts (not roasted.)
2. Shell them, saving the skins and discarding the shells.
3. Eat the nuts.
4. Grind up the skins and smoke them.
86. The Art of Carding by The Jolly Roger
Obtaining a credit card number: There are many ways to obtain the information needed to card something. The most important things needed are the card number and the expiration date. Having the card-holders name doesn't hurt, but it is not essential. The absolute best way to obtain all the information needed is by trashing. The way this is done is simple. You walk around your area or any other area and find a store, mall, supermarket, etc., that throws their garbage outside on the sidewalk or dumpster. Rip the bag open and see if you can find any carbons at all. If you find little shreds of credit card carbons, then it is most likely not worth your time to tape together. Find a store that does not rip their carbons at all or only in half. Another way is to bullshit the number out of someone. That is call them up and say "Hello, this is Visa security and we have a report that your card was stolen." They will deny it and you will try to get it out of them from that point on. You could say, "It wasn't stolen? Well what is the expiration date and maybe we can fix the problem.... OK and what is the number on your card?......Thank you very much and have a nice day." Or think of something to that degree. Another way to get card numbers is through systems such as TRW and CBI, this is the hard way, and probably not worth the trouble, unless you are an expert on the system. Using credit card numbers posted on BBS's is risky. The only advantage is that there is a good chance that other people will use it, thus decreasing the chances of being the sole-offender. The last method of getting numbers is very good also. In most video rental stores, they take down your credit card number when you join to back-up your rentals. So if you could manage to steal the list or make a copy of it, then you are set for a LONG time. Choosing a victim: Once you have the card number, it is time to make the order. The type of places that are easiest to victimize are small businesses that do mail order or even local stores that deliver. If you have an ad for a place with something you want and the order number is NOT a 1-800 number then chances are better that you will succeed.
Ordering
When you call the place up to make the order, you must have several things readily at hand. These are the things you will need: A name, telephone number, business phone, card number (4 digit bank code if the card is MasterCard), expiration date, and a complete shipping and billing address. I will talk about all of these in detail. A personal tip: When I call to make an order, it usually goes much smoother if the person you are talking to is a woman. In many cases they are more gullible than men. The name: You could use the name on the card or the name of the person who you are going to send the merchandise to. Or you could use the name on the card and have it shipped to the person who lives at the drop (Say it is a gift or something). The name is really not that important because when the company verifies the card, the persons name is never mentioned, EXCEPT when you have a Preferred Visa card. Then the name is mentioned. You can tell if you have a Preferred Visa card by the PV to the right of the expiration date on the carbon. No phone all day long waiting for the company to call (Which they will), then the phone number to give them as your home-phone could be one of the following: A number that is ALWAYS busy, a number that ALWAYS rings, a payphone number, low end of a loop (and you will wait on the other end), or a popular BBS. NEVER give them your home phone because they will find out as soon as the investigation starts who the phone belongs to. The best thing would be to have a payphone call forward your house (via Cosm The business number.) When asked for, repeat the number you used for your home phone. Card number: The cards you will use will be Visa, Mastercard, and American Express. The best is by far Visa. It is the most straight-forward. Mastercard is pretty cool except for the bank code. When they ask for the bank code, they sometimes also ask for the bank that issued it. When they ask that just say the biggest bank you know of in your area. Try to avoid American Express. They tend to lead full scale investigations. Unfortunately, American Express is the most popular card out. When telling the person who is taking your call the card number, say it slow, clear, and with confidence. e.g. CC# is 5217-1234-5678-9012. Pause after each set of four so you don't have to repeat it. Expiration date: The date must be at LEAST in that month. It is best to with more than three months to go. The address: More commonly referred to as the 'drop'. Well the drop can range from an abandoned building to your next door neighbors apartment. If you plan to send it to an apartment building then be sure NOT to include an apartment number. This will confuse UPS or postage men a little and they will leave the package in the lobby. Here is a list of various drops: The house next door whose family is on vacation, the apartment that was just moved out of, the old church that will be knocked down in six months, your friends house who has absolutely nothing to do with the type of merchandise you will buy and who will also not crack under heat from feds, etc.. There are also services that hold merchandise for you, but personally I would not trust them. And forget about P.O. Boxes because you need ID to get one and most places don't ship to them anyway. Other aspects of carding: Verifying cards, seeing if they were reported stolen. Verifying cards: Stores need to verify credit cards when someone purchases something with one. They call up a service that checks to see if the customer has the money in the bank. The merchant identifies himself with a merchant number. The service then holds the money that the merchant verified on reserve. When the merchant sends in the credit card form, the service sends the merchant the money. The service holds the money for three days and if no form appears then it is put back into the bank. The point is that if you want to verify something then you should verify it for a little amount and odds are that there will be more in the bank. The good thing about verification is that if the card doesn't exist or if it is stolen then the service will tell you. To verify MasterCard and Visa try this number. It is voice: 1-800-327-1111 merchant code is 596719. Stolen cards: Mastercard and Visa come out with a small catalog every
week where they publish EVERY stolen or fraudulently used card. I get this every week by trashing the same place on the same day. If you ever find it trashing then try to get it every week. Identifying cards: Visa card numbers begin with a 4 and have either 13 or 16 digits. MasterCard card numbers begin with a 5 and have 16 digits. American Express begins with a 3 and has 15 digits. They all have the formats of the following:
3xxx-xxxxxx-xxxxx American Express
4xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx Visa
4xxx-xxxx-xxxx-xxxx Visa
5xxx-xxxx-xxxx-xxxx MasterCard
Gold cards: A gold card simply means that credit is good for $5000. Without a gold card, credit would be normally $2000. To recognize a gold card on a carbon there are several techniques:
American Express-none.
Visa-PV instead of CV.
Note-When verifying a PV Visa, you have to have the real name of the cardholder.
Mastercard-An asterisk can signify a gold card, but this changes depending when the card was issued. I am going to type out a dialog between a carder and the phone operator to help you get the idea.
Operator: "Over-priced Computer Goods, may I help you?"
Carder: "Hi, I would like to place an order please."
Operator: "Sure, what would you like to order?"
Carder: "400 generic disks and a double density drive."
Operator: "Ok, is there anything else?"
Carder: "No thank you, that's all for today."
Operator: "Ok, how would you like to pay for this? MasterCard or Visa?"
Carder: "Visa."
Operator: "And your name is?"
Carder: "Lenny Lipshitz." (Name on card)
Operator: "And your Visa card number is?"
Carder: "4240-419-001-340" (Invalid card)
Operator: "Expiration date?"
Carder: "06-92."
Operator: "And where would you like the package shipped to?"
Carder: "6732 Goatsgate Port. Paris, Texas, 010166."
Operator: "And what is your home telephone number?"
Carder: "212-724-9970" (This number is actually always busy)
Operator: "I will also need your business phone number in case we have to reach you."
Carder: "You can reach me at the same number. 212-724-9970"
Operator: "O.K. Thank you very much and have nice day."
Carder: "Excuse me, when will the package arrive?"
Operator: "In six to seven days UPS."
Carder: "Thanks a lot, and have a pleasant day."
Now you wait 6-7 days when the package will arrive to the address which is really a house up for sale. There will be a note on the door saying, "Hello UPS, please leave all packages for Lenny Lipshitz in the lobby or porch. Thanks a lot, Lenny Lipshitz" (Make the signature half-way convincing)
87. Recognizing credit cards by The Jolly Roger
[Sample: American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2 Y1
John Doe AX
Explanation:
The first date is the date the person got the card, the second date is the expiration date, after the expiration date is the same digits in the first year. The American Express Gold has many more numbers (I think 6 8 then 8). If you do find a Gold card keep it for it has a $5000.00 backup even when the guy has no money!
[Sample: Master Card]
5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY
John Doe.
Explanation:
The format varies, I have never seen a card that did not
