This was not written by me. It was written by someone I know who is a experienced flyer so I would pay attention to it.
So, you've decided to take the plunge and get yourself a new hobby. R/C flying is great fun and filled with terrific people. Unfortunately, there are also some bad apples, and they usually own your local hobby store.
They will often sell you a plane that is way beyond your abilities. On top of that, your local hobby shop is always more expensive than one of the major mail order companies, like Tower Hobbies. So what is the best way to get started?
First thing you need to learn is to fly! There's no sense in buying an expensive and beautiful plane you sink your sweat, heart, and wallet into, only to crash it seconds after you try launching it. Believe it or not, flying a plane via R/C is actually harder than flying a *full-scale* plane.
You should start off with a simple trainer plane, preferably a glider. There are many kits in the $20-40 range that are easy to build, and repair. You can even get gliders that are pre-built for $60-90. Most gliders require only a 2-channel radio, which run about $50-75. I'd advise that you get a 4-channel, though, since you'll need that later anyway.
Gliders come in three basic designs, based on wing geometry. A straight or flat wing is for sport gliders and are great for high-speed acrobatics. I suggest you plan on this type for your second plane. Poly-dyhedral is a popular style for trainers. The multi-angled wings create a 'pendulum effect' for added balance. However, these are slower and often stall. The third type is my favorite, the bi-dyhedral wing. The center section is flat and the outboard sections are angled up. This still gives a bit of pendulum, but sacrifices less for speed and over-all performance.
Gliders can be launched several ways. If you live near a cliff or tall hill, just toss it from the crest and let gravity, updrafts, and thermal layers (pockets of warm air) do the rest. Many gliders can be powered with either small gas engines or electric motors. I like electric since you can shut down in mid-flight and save power, but they are heavy.
You can also launch a glider using a *high-start*. This consists of a 100 foot long piece of surgical rubber tubing, with a stake on one end and a parachute on the other. After you pound the stake in the ground, you attach the glider to the parachute end and stretch away. As the tube contracts, the parachute fills and lifts the glider up high and fast. The snapping action of the tube releases the plane from a hook and you're on your way.
The two critical times when flying are at launchings and landings. One mistake, and your plane crashes. R/C planes have stall speeds and altitudes just like full-scale planes. Go too slow and your plane's control surfaces (rudder, elevator, etc...) will have no effect and gravity takes control. In addition to this, all planes have a turbulance zone, usually about 2-3 times the length of the wingspan. At this altitude or lower, your plane encounters a lot of ground turbulance and air does not flow properly over your control surfaces.
For your first flight, I strongly urge you have an experienced R/C flyer with you. Let him fly your newly built plane first, before you. Planes always need corrections. The center of gravity may need to be altered by moving the radio in the plane, even by adding weight to the nose or tail. Your controls will most likely also need adjustment, or *trimming*. Letting an expert fly your new plane once or twice will ensure that it is in good working order for you to handle.
So, the moment of truth arrives. With radio in hand, you are ready to fly. Make sure that both your transmitter and the receiver are switched on!!! Believe it or not, I know people who have launched planes and forgot to switch on their receivers. You now launch the plane. Keep it straight with just a slight amount of 'up' on the elevator. This is often best done by using the trim settings on you transmitter.
Only when the plane picks up altitude should you make your first turn. Make it wide and gentle. Too sharp, and you'll lose speed and lift which then results in a stall. You know you've stalled when you see the plane pitch suddenly and spin out of control. Stalling at 500 feet is okay, because you have plenty of room to recover. But at 20-50 feet, you'll just crack the plane up.
Remember, altitude is your friend. Slowly work your way up, and you'll be okay. Once you make your turn, here's something else to remember. Your steering controls are reversed. This is a hard thing for R/C pilots to keep in mind. When a plane is flying away from you, left and right are normal. The reverse is true when it's flying towards you. The same applies when your plane is upside down when it comes to your elevator control.
Once you get high enough, like 300-500 feet, you have some breathing room. It's a good idea to have a large, distictive marking on the bottom of one wing. This helps in knowing what the plane's attitude is. On a sunny day, a brightly colored plane will often appear as just a glimmer when it's high up. On cloudy days, just a shadow.
When flying a glider, I like to go where birds, such as seagulls, are. Birds are lazy and will often just float around when they find a nice thermal to ride on. Once there, your plane gets a natural lift, and you can make sharp turns and other acrobatics with less trouble. I know some glider flyers who take lounge chairs out with them so they can just recline and fly for long periods of time.
Finally, it's time to land. Once again, slower speeds, little altitude, and ground turbulance will ruin your day. It's a good idea to have a light streamer on your radio antenna so you know which way the wind is blowing. Always take off and land with your plane facing the wind. This helps keep air flowing at acceptable speeds over your control surfaces. At about 50-75 feet, dip the nose down slightly to make your landing, and then point the nose up when about a dozen or so feet up. Turbulance alone will slow the plane down and by keeping the nose up, your angle-of-attack will make for a gentle landing. Once down, you can now relax and give yourself a pat on the back.
