Care and Feeding
Care
Storage
Lacking a museum-quality temperature and humidity controlled lockable
display case does not mean that your collection can't be displayed safely.
The average collection is not damaged by being hung on a wall with steel
hooks (not aluminum) or on wooden display racks. In high humidity areas,
though, it is best to keep your collection stored in a sealed case with
enough dessicant to keep the humidity beneath about 30% to hinder rust. It is also very important to KEEP SWORDS OUT OF THE HANDS OF CHILDREN. Children will destroy a sword in a fraction of the time it takes rust. Also keep them out of reach of people who want to clash blades like in the movies or cut down trees with them.
Long Term Storage
If you do not wish to display your swords, The most important ways to
protect your collection are to protect it from rust, skin contact,
and theft. A gun safe will protect it from all of these. If
that route is unavailible, however, I recommend either using a gun sock or
making a sword bag. In either case, I recommend placing a few packages
of dessicant in with the sword to keep humidity down.
Feeding
Blade Coatings
Your blade, being steel, will appreciate regular coats of a clear, non-organic, oil. This prevents moisture from reaching the blade, as well as giving a nasty sliming to anyone who touches it. Collectors of Japanese swords recommend choji, which is mineral oil with a small amount of clove oil for scent. I also recommend a light oil such as sewing machine oil or gun oil. I've heard of using WD40 or 10W30, but can't comment as it's usefulness. Oil should be changed regularly by wiping the blade with a soft cloth until dry, then applying more.
Cosmoline, a vaseline like substance, and grease were often used in the past, but now are odten looked down upon. If you have an old blade covered in it, rest assured that it will still be protected, but there may be microscopic pits in the blade that would make a collector of Japanese swords cringe. The stuff is quite ugly as well, but at least it keeps hands off...
Another option I've heard of is applying a wax coating. I've heard of using carnauba wax (like on your car), but cannot comment to its long term effects. You might want to check your local automotive dept. to ask about which waxes are best on steel.
The final viable option I know of is a clear varnish. I know that Del Tin, a respected maker of medieval replica swords, puts a coat of varnish on their sword blades. I recommend making sure there are no fingerprints or specks of dust on the blade first, or else they will eat into the blade from beneathe the coating.
Handle and Scabbard Coatings
I have heard of the use of a substance called Black Rock for the protection of leather, but can't comment upon it further. Ask your local leather supply store for their recommendations.
Keeping Your Blade Healthy
Rust Prevention
All exposed steel will want to rust. Touching any steel with bare hands
will leave oils and salts that will eat their way into your blade and
eventually leave pits. The best way to avoid this is not to touch the
blade and to wipe it off if it is touched. It is a good idea
to inspect your swords at least annually to check for new rusty areas
and to use fine steel wool or Nev-R-Dull on them. Don't forget to change the oil, too.
Rust Removal
I know of two methods of cleaning the rust off of steel--chemicals and
abrasion. I'll try to give several examples of each, in order of weakest
method to harshest. Always start with something weak--it's easier to
take rust off than to put steel back on. BTW, I haven't tried most of
these, and use caution with any chemicals.
Chemical Cleaning
The simplest cleaning method is to appply a light oil to the blade, let it sit for a few minutes, wipe it off with a soft cloth, and repeat. This will remove any loose scale and won't damage the sword any further.
Nev-R-Dull is my recommendation for a mild chemical cleaner. I believe that it is merely a penetrating oil and cotton wadding. It removes
light surface rust and dirt, and is safe to use. It is inexpensive and availible at your
local automotive store. It is oily feeling and leaves a slight residue on anything it is rubbed against. Rub the rusty area with a small piece and then wipe it off. Great for removing rust
caused by light handling or humidity. Always test it on a small area
if in doubt. Not recommended for blued blades (haven't tried it). I have also heard of a product called Flitz, but have never used it.
Solvents. The only one I've heard of using is kerosene. I've heard that if you soak a blade in it for a few weeks, the rust will come right off. Anyone care to verify that? Personally I don't want to leave several gallons of Kerosene lying around the house.
Acids. Yup, you read that right, just be careful and go slow. Start
with some mild household acids--try lemon juice first. It may take a
few days, but check it periodically. Next would be vinegar (mild
ascetic acid), and then Worcestershire sauce. My preference is a mild solution of carbonic and phosphonic acids that goes by the trade name of Diet Pepsi (takes about 3 days, followed by some steel wool and nev-r-dull). If those don't work, A 1 molar solution of a medium-strong acid, such as muriatic or phosphonic acid, will slowly eat away the rust. Check your pool supply store for these. They may take a few hours, but check them regularly!
They will eventually eat into the blade if left too long. Strong
HCl will eat the rust off in seconds (I use it to clean rusty tools
at work), but I do not recommend this method for use on a sword. A
strong acid will leave microscopic etching, which will give a dull,
leaden look to the blade.
Electrolysis is the process of breaking apart the rust molecules into
iron and oxygen, then binding the oxygen to a more active metal. One
method is to immerse the blade (remove the handle first) in a slightly
basic solution (caustic soda or lye) while it is surrounded with metallic
zinc. The reaction will eat the rust and produce zinc oxide. It is
important that a basic solution is used to prevent further rusting of the
steel, and make sure that the surface to be oxidized is a more active metal
than iron. Check a college chemistry book when in doubt. Do not use
aluminum foil, because it is more stable than iron and will cause the iron
to rust away. The process takes a few hours, so check it regularly.
The process can be speeded up by connecting a car battery to the apparatus
as such: negative to iron, positive to zinc. I have been told that
electrolysis can leave a blade looking 'cooked,' and that it destroys the
original temper of the blade.
I've also been told that exposure to high heat will remove rust, but
this will discolor the blade and destroy the temper.
Abrasive Cleaning
Oil and steel wool is the most often prescribed way to remove light
surface rust. You know how to use it already, so there is no need to
say more. Scotch-brite pads and olive oil make a good alternative,
for the more kitchen inclined collectors.
Rubbing the steel with a piece of copper will remove rust as well. Since
copper is softer than iron, it won't scratch the surface, either. I have
never tried it before, but I don't think it would take off any patina.
A soft steel or brass wire brush works the same way, and may be useful for a sword
that is already heavily pitted or scaled with rust. The bristles shouldn't
put enough pressure on the steel to scratch it, so it should be ok. I have
seen wire wheels for drills, and they might work as well. Test it on a
small area first before attacking the whole blade.
Polishing stones are used in knife making, and will give a mirror finish
to the blade. Remember, though, that this may actually detract from the
value of the sword. Also remember this--it takes a 5-year apprenticeship
to learn to make a Japanese sword, and a 10-year apprenticeship to learn
to polish one using stones. 'Nuff said.
I assume that abrasive cleaning compounds might work, but that they would
leave scratches on the blade. Test a few out if you want to try this
method.
Very fine grit sandpaper will leave scratches, but it is good for a
hard assault on scaled rust. Be careful to only be rubbing the rust,
though
Grinding wheels. Don't make me have to hunt you down and smack you over
the head. I once saw a CW recreator who was proud to be carrying an
authentic M1860 cavalry saber. He had cleaned it on a bench grinder. He
sure was proud of himself for destroying a piece of history. He also had
it and its scabbard nickel plated. That guy shouldn't have been trusted
with a replica saber, much less an authentic antique. Grinding wheels are great for sharpening lawnmower
blades, but if you feel the need to put your sword against one you
should really consider a different hobby.
When to clean and when not to clean
Clean:
-When handling has caused light rust.
-When moisture in the air causes light rust.
-When a new sword has light rust on it.
-After finding an area that is just starting to rust.
-If the rust is heavily scaled.
-If you are willing to accept that you may be harming the blade and destroying its value in order to make it look pretty.
Don't clean:
-Don't try to polish any brass parts of the sword (it destroys the
patina and looks really bad in conjunction with a rusty blade).
-Don't try to remove the patina from the blade.
-Don't try to make an old sword look new--it isn't! The patina is
often seen as an authentication of age.
When in doubt or before any heavy cleaning, consult a professional.
Repair
Most heavy repair jobs are beyond the scope of the average collector.
If you do need to disassemble a hilt or remove a blade, I recommend
paying the $1.00 to get the instructions from Dixie Gun Works. Spare
parts are often for sale by dealers or collectors, and Dixie has replica
parts. If you have a dented scabbard, I recommend leaving it. Dents
were often intentionally put into a scabbard to prevent the blade from
rattling. If you absolutely must try to remove the dents, remove the
throat of the scabbard and drive a section of wood that has the same
cross section as the scabbard down it. This should punch the dents out
from the inside, if they are to be popped out. As to a bent blade, you don't just run it under
your foot a few times like a bent fencing foil. I have only seen a few bent
blades, and the best way to straighten it is to put it in a (copper or wood
blocked) vice and carefully straighten it. I don't know how to get
out any s-curves, though.
One visitor to my page recommended visiting music instrument repair shops for repairs to brass guards or scabbards. It sounds crazy, but it makes perfect sense that they could fix brass without seams or punch dents out of metal tubes.
To contact me, click the ID Service link at the top of the page. --Mike
