What is the skill we call “lock picking”? First off, Hollywood has it all wrong, as usual. In this series of articles, published every so often, I’ll let you know the basics. There are many books, articles, and web sites dealing with this subject, and my articles will help you to better understand the information they offer.

Let me start with my credentials. I have been a locksmith for over 10 years, and have opened almost every kind of lock there is. There are those that are “unpickable,” and I will tell you about them. Also, this series will give you some “alternative entry techniques” that will get you past many locks that will not “pick.”

To begin with, the best way to pick a lock is to visualize what the inside of the lock looks like. Figure 1 will show you a rough sketch of the basic “pin tumbler lock” that is common in most homes and businesses.

As you can see, the pins travel up and down inside the cells. The bottom pins (1a) are of various lengths, and the cuts on the key correspond to those lengths. The top pins (1b) are of generally uniform length and are driven by springs. When the correct key is in the lock, the break between bottom pin and top pin forms a sheer line (1c) that allows the cylinder to rotate, or "tumble."

When we pick a lock, we are manipulating the pins to try to form that sheer line. There is much disagreement as to whether working each pin or raking the set of pins is the most successful approach. I prefer the method called “raking.” To “rake” involves quickly drawing your pick along the bottom pins while applying pressure in the desired direction of spin. A healthy amount of lubricant should be applied prior to attempting this technique, so keep a paper towel or two handy to clean up.

For tools, I recommend using a “rake,” as we in the business call it. The figure below (top picture) shows the basic design of this tool. A thin yet strong piece of spring steel is best for making this. Use a Dremmel tool, or similar device, to fashion the curves, then wrap the handle with black tape to make it comfortable to hold. You will also need a “tension wrench,” shown in the figure below (bottom picture), in order to apply turning pressure to the cylinder.

What you need most is practice. I recommend mounting a locking doorknob on a 2"x6" piece of wood with a stable base to use for this. Lock the knob, then lube and rake. Do this until you have succeeded a number of times. Then find other locks to practice on. There are many inexpensive brands that are good enough to get the basic technique down. You can install a deadbolt on the same 2"x6" stand, and work at that as well.