North-east of Abu Dhabi lies the city and Emirate of Dubai. With an area of almost 4,000 sq km, it is the second largest of the seven Emirates.

Dubai is trade. For over three hundred years it has been a major trading post of the southern Gulf, with regular dhow traffic north and east to Iran, further east to India and south to East Africa. This stems partly from the superb natural harbour that is provided by the Creek, which curves through the city like a river. It provides the protection from the open sea that the relatively small dhows need, and gives direct access to the center of the city. Suqs and trading houses grew up on the sides of t he Creek, and Dubai became ever more cosmoplitan and successful.

But this sucess is chiefly the result of the policies of His Highness the late Sheikh Rashid Ben Said Al Maktoum, who became Ruler of Dubai in 1958, and guided the Emirate through most of its first years of independence. He foresaw that oil revenues woul d give Dubai the opportunity to transform itself into a modern city, based on its trading tradition. At Port Rashid he built marine facilities (including a dry dock) that could service the largest ships, and he ensures that the Creek was not allowed to s ilt up. He encourages the creation of the infrastructure that businessmen needed, including banks and hotels, but also liberal laws and minimum red tape. He built a very large port and a free trade zone at Jebel Ali, 4 kilometers south of the city; this project was considered very risky, but the investment has paid off as the Free Zone achieves critical mass and grows from strength to strength. Hundreds of companies now use it as their regional base.

But above all, Sheikh Rashid managed to inspire the necessary confidence in the business community. The most hard-headed businessmen could see that he would do whatever was necessary to make sure that his policies succeeded and that he made a long-term c ommitment to Dubai. His sons have continued his policy of developing Dubai as an enterpot.

The Maktoum family (part of the Bani Yas tribe) first moved to Dubai, and quickly benefited from the truces that were negotiated all along the Trucial Coast. The peace at sea favoured trade, particularly with Iran and India. The re-export trade had star ted by the time the pearling industry died in the 1930s, and suqs grew to serve not only residents but also visiting importers from neighbouring countries.

Dubai has become an oil producer in the last few decades, and this is an important source of revenue. But the amount of oil is nothing like the vast quantities found in places like Abu Dhabi and Kuwait, and so Dubai has never been tempted to see it as an alternative to commercial success. Oil finances the infrastructure, which in turn attracts business.

One of the delights of Dubai is that tourists can easily witness this economic activity. The giant container ships at Port Rashid seem to come right into the city. Just a few minutes away, small dhows in the Creek load up with fresh fruit, refrigerators , toiletries and all manner of goods and ferry them up or down the Gulf. In the old suqs on either side of the Creek one can see the hyperactive traders selling video players to Indians, radio cassette recorders to Africans, spices to Arabs, microwaves t o Russians, carpets to Germans, guitars to Filipinos and gold to everyone.

Most visitors are very happy to join in this activity and avail themselves of the special shopping opportunities. Taxes are negligible and the range of goods on sale is incredible because they come from so many different countries. The latest and best c onsumer products are available, and so are more economical alternatives. Traditional goods are the most obvious area for the tourist, and bargains can be had in carpets, spices, jewellery and other ornaments.

The Creek is more than a natural harbour: it is also serves as a focus for the city. Every visitor should take the abra or water bus from the suq in Bur Dubai (the south side) to But Deira as it provides a fascinating view of life on the water. Visitors who want to go beyond the Creek to the Gulf can take a trip on a dhow, or even hire a dhow for themselves. The waterfronts on both sides of the Creek have an unusual variety of architecture. The Municipality has set t he tone for exciting architecture by choosing a most imaginative design for its own offices. The new ETISALAT Tower for telecommunications is an enormous tower crowned with a giant ball which is illuminated at nigh t. The Economics Department and Chamber of Commerce have maintained the distinguished architectural standard with their new buildings. On the Creek's south side the old suq building s are builts right into the water, Venetian style. One can also see the recently preserved traditional buildings of Bastakia, Al Fahadi fort and musuem and Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum House (the family home of the ruler of Dubai before 1958). A few kilomete rs away the skyline is dominated by the Trade Center which was for long the tallest building in the Middle East and is visible from almost any point in Dubai.

Dubai has many other notable buildings and more are being built all the time. The palaces and the major mosques are the best examples of architecture in the Arab tradition. The new shopping malls are structures that cannot be ignored, though not to ever yone's taste. The parks and the new landscaped areas by the Creek are fine examples of intelligent town planning.

Dubai ambitious. Its past growth is an nothing compared to its plans for expansion. The infrasttructure of the city is being recreated on a scale much greater than before. The Municipality gives pride of place to its beautification programme and ensures that the growth of the city is not haphazard. The vision of the new city is now becoming a reality; a visitor of just a few years ago would have difficulty finding his way around today.

Dubai has also succeeded in making itself the sports capital of the Middle East, with a view to making its name well known throughout the world. It now has a wide range of both spectator and participatory sports for the resident and tourist alike, with w orld-class facilities. It has rejected the old notion that many sports could not be played in this climate.

The duty-free facility of Dubai International Airport hosts a snooker classic which is now firmly established as one of the major snooker tournaments, attracting the best players from around the world. Important international soccer matches are played in Dubai's fully equipped stadiums. It is the only place where soccer league winners of England and Scotland have played each other. More recently, the Dubai Tennis Open has attracted world famous players who fin d that Dubai provides the perfect climate in February. This annual event takes place at the new, beautifully landscaped tennis courts at the Aviation Sports Center right beside the Creek, and is sponsered by Emirates Airl ines and BMW. There are many first-class tennis courts in the city and professional coaches are available.

Camel- and horse-racing are very popular, though the latter has become a major attraction only in the last few years. Much of its success is doubtless due to the expertise and interest of the Maktoum family. The four brothers own over 2,000 thoroughbred s and in 1994 His Highness the Minister of Defence Sheikh Mohammed was the top owner in Britain, France and Ireland. Many of the Maktoum horses are now stabled in Dubai during the winter, and raced on the new Nad al Sheba racecourse. The Dubai Internati onal Jockeys Challenge, which attracts world wide competition, was won in 1995 by jockeys based in the UAE. Showjumping has been organized by Captain Mark Phillips for the Dubai Horse Show.

Camel-racing is still the preferred sport of most nationals and is a startling experience for the first-time spectator.

The lush green Emirates Golf Course, just south of the city, has long been a talking point among businessmen visiting the region. It was the first course outside Europe to host the Professional Golf Association Euro pean Championship, and the Dubai Desert Classic is part of the PGA circuit. An equally spectacular course, the Dubai Creek Golf Club and Marine Resort, has been built right in the city. Dubai has also hoste d the World Chess Championship, the World Karate Championship and the World Youth Volleyball Championships. The Dubai Sevens, an annual international rugby sevens tournament, draws great numbers of expatriates fro m all around the Gulf.

The availability of year-round watersports is an obvious sporting attraction. The Dubai International Powerboat Race has attracted top competitors every year since its inception, and huge crowds are also drawn, partly by the free entertainment on the bea ch featuring top pop singers from India, the West and the Arab world. It has been further promoted by the success of the local Victory Team in the world championships. And now the Abu Dhabi team is showing p romise of having equally winning ways. Many residents prefer the gentler power of sailing boats. There are plenty of clubs that enable short-term visitors to try their hand at sailing in the warm blue waters of the Gulf. Other watersports include wind surfing (not too cold if you fall in), water-skiing and deep-sea fishing. Some visitors some to Dubai to go suba-diving, which is exciting, safe and inexpensive. The water is warm enough for swimming throughout the year, either in a hotel or resort pool or off Jumairah beach.

The Middle East Rally has also produced a local success story in Mohammed Ben Sulayem: the best driver in the world on sand. Less brilliant drivers can take part in the local sport of 'wadi bashing'. Convoys of off-road vehicles set off into the desert and hills in search of wadis, riverbeds that are occasionally flooded with rainwater crashing down from the impervious mountains. It is essentially an opportunity to see the most interesting landscapes around in the safety of numbers; there is rarely a s erious competitve aspect. The Gulf News now organizes an annual event which attracts hundreds of entrants who see it as a fun run. Visitors are better advised to go on a desert safari with a professional guide beca use both desert and mountains can be deadly for travellers who break down or get lost. The rules are never to go alone and always to inform someone of the planned route and times. Driving through wadis which are full of water has its own perlis; the roc ks below can be sharp enough to cause punctures, and sudden pot-holes can cause the engine to cut out when the vehicle dips too far into the water. but it is a glorious experience after these struggles to enjoy a picnic beside a beautiful wadi.