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Choosing a bra
INTRODUCTION
Bras are designed to contain the breasts and give shape and support. Breasts are a part of the body shape of a woman and, therefore, of her sexuality, and perception of size or change of shape can have profound psychological effects. Choosing a bra can thus become quite a complex matter, and can be complicated further by a non-average body shape, weak hands and fingers or other such difficulty. Some women decide not to wear a bra for a number of reasons, but those who perspire a lot or have heavy breasts could have problems with soreness or even ulceration underneath. Breasts change shape over time, particularly after childbirth and with age, so it is a good idea to be measured and fitted regularly, or certainly if some change has been noted. Bras are complex garments. Bra designers have to solve the engineering problem of bounce and there are up to 58 pieces of work to be done when making a bra. They are usually made of cotton, polyester, nylon or mixed fibres and elasticised with Elastane or Lycra. Those people with eczema should choose bras made of cotton; the area containing Elastane can be lined with silk or fine cotton. Cups are formed in various ways, in one, two or three sections. One-section cups are moulded; three-section cups give added support with a seam underneath the breast. People with sensitive nipples should avoid seams where possible. Side support is usually provided by bones (now metal or nylon strips) although some use cut and fabric only.
SIZING
It is always advisable for your comfort and breast health to be measured and fitted by a qualified bra fitter. Look in your local phone directory for your nearest specialist shop, or ask the lingerie department of your nearest department store (Lingerie Shops of America). Measure chest under bust for bra size. Measure fullest part of bust for cup size. If the cup size is: For instance, if your underarm measurement is 38 inches and the fullest part of the bust 42 inches, you need size 38D. This enables you to know what size to look for when shopping, but not the style. Only you can find out which is the most comfortable for you.
STYLES AND TYPES OF BRA
Strapless bras support from beneath and may give relief to those with painful shoulders. Backless bras fasten at the waist, have very narrow straps, and may be useful where the spine is not straight. T-back or racer-back bra straps do not fall off the shoulders, and may accommodate sloping shoulders. These styles tend to be back-fastening.
LENGTH
Bras are normally available in three lengths, short, midi and long. Long length bras give the greatest support to a heavy bust but need to fit well around the body for comfort. They sometimes have hooks to fasten onto a corset and so prevent the bra from riding up. Bras are normally fastened with hooks and eyes but some do not have any fastenings. The number of hooks and eyes normally depends upon the length.
FASTENINGS
Back-fastening bras are commonly available but some women find them difficult to manage. In which case other bras may be appropriate. Front-fastening bras are available up to sizes E and F. Sleep bras are normally front fastening and give soft support and are useful while dressed in nightwear. They usually have a high back with wide straps. Crop tops give little support but usually have wide straps and no fastenings. They can be put on over the head or held by the shoulder straps and pulled on over feet and legs, like pants. Sports bras give support with full freedom of movement, and are often T-back or racer back. They are put on over the head or over the feet and legs and pulled upwards.
Mastectomy bras.
Many women who have had mastectomies have found that they do not need special bras but, for those who prefer them, these are available from the NHS. They normally have a pocket to contain the prosthesis. For those who prefer a standard bra choose a style with high underarm contours, wide adjustable shoulder straps and strong elastic side panels with some support for the prosthesis. A pocket should not be necessary, but can be provided on the NHS. A criss-cross of ribbon is an alternative to a pocket. For more information on prostheses, bras and beachwear for women who have had breast surgery, contact Breast Cancer Care (see useful organisations).
STRAPS
Shoulder straps can be narrow, average width, wide or camisole style. Adjustable straps can be adapted to adjust either with Velcro, buckles or rings. Stretch straps allow for comfort and easy movement. Non-stretch straps may be best if the bust is heavy, but may also cut into shoulders. Cushion pads are often incorporated into the non-stretch straps of larger cup size bras to protect shoulders.
OTHER FEATURES
Underwiring gives support, but may dig in or cause pressure areas to develop. Backs of bras: some cover the back fully, some have straps which follow the lines of the armhole.
ACCESSORIES
Padded shoulder guards can help to prevent straps from cutting into the shoulders. Strap retainers: can be fixed into outerwear shoulder seams to retain straps, or can be bought to hold straps together at the back. Bra extenders extend the width of a bra by up to 4 1/2 inches by hooking on to an existing back fastener.
ALTERNATIVES
TWO-IN-ONE GARMENTS
Liberty bodice (bra and vest): flattens the bust; suspenders can be attached, normally front buttoning. Corselet/pantee corselet (bra and corset with or without suspenders): pull-on or fastening pantee corselet incorporates pants. Secret support-tops: these vests or T-shirts have a supportive lining of elastic and jersey fabric, so can be worn in place of a bra, giving some support. Bra-slips (bra and petticoat). Can be shortened to make a bra camisole. Teddy or body shaper (all in one): fastens underneath the crotch, normally with poppers or hooks and eyes. Basque (bra and short length suspender belt): may lace up in front.
DRESSING
Back-fastening bra.
Draw straps onto shoulders; place cups under breasts; move fingers along hem to back and fasten. Adjust straps and position as necessary. This requires flexibility and dexterity.
TO MAKE DRESSING EASIER
Replace fabric shoulder straps with soft lingerie elastic. If the wearer can no longer fasten back fastening bras but does not wish to buy new ones, they can be fastened at the front and turned around. Fastening bras with one hand is best done seated. Front-fastening bras are the easiest but back fastening bras can be turned round.
ADAPTATIONS
To prevent straps slipping off the shoulders a piece of elastic may be stitched between both straps across the back. Other possibilities include lengthening and crossing the straps at the back or fastening them round the neck. The first two alterations are more suitable if the bra fastens at the front. A back-fastening bra can be adapted to open at the front (contact your nearest clothing advice service for details like Lingerie Shops of America). Trousers or corset hooks and eyes can be substituted for the original fastenings. Front hooks and eyes may be easier to fasten if the fabric strip behind the eyes is stitched back out of the way. Tape loops sewn to each side of the front opening enable the wearer to slip thumbs through and hook the fastening when fine movements are not possible . Buttons and loops made of round elastic may be easier to handle than hooks and eyes. The illustrated zip adaptations make it possible to fasten a bra using only one hand. In the first example an elastic loop at the bottom end of the zip will need to be fastened to a button sewn on the lower garment before the zip can be closed. The upper end of the zip in the second example can be held in the teeth whilst it is closed.
AVAILABILITY/SOURCES
Check high street stores (Lingerie Shops of America) and mail order catalogues for availability of the products mentioned above. Alternatively, contact your nearest clothing advice for details of suppliers.
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