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Monday, 12 April 2004
Into the mono-culture

When I show my Vietnamese friends photographs of me with people of Asian ethnicity, they always say something like, ?Oh! Is she Chinese?? If I explain that actually, she is American, they don?t quite believe me. It?s difficult for them to comprehend that in America, there are people of every skin color and ethnic background. For people in a mono-culture, nationality and ethnicity are one and the same.

Sometimes I don?t quite fit their paradigms:

1) Not a foreigner. I just learned that when I first came to Vinh, class 43 debated long and hard about whether or not I was really a foreigner. ?Because we know that foreigners are tall and big, and she is not?So we didn?t understand how she could be a foreigner.?

2) From Laos. ?Well, ok?she must be a foreigner. But she?s not a big foreigner. So maybe she?s from Laos. Laotians are sort of foreign.? I still get asked sometimes if I?m Vietnamese, or if I am from Laos

3)The strictest American. Class 44 now believes that I am American. But I?m not much like Brittany Spears. In fact, I dress so modestly that according to them, I ?must be the strictest American!?

4)A Baby. I?m not really sure how this fits culturally. Well, first of all, people in American usually think that I?m about 16. I was hoping that in Vietnam, people wouldn?t have the frame of reference to know that I look so much younger than I am. But in fact, people still ask if I?m in high school. And worse than that, they tell me that I look like a baby. That when I sleep, I look like a baby. That when I eat, my mouth looks like a baby. So perhaps I?m regressing.

Posted by ultra/amyl at 2:27 AM CDT
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Monday, 29 March 2004

I dwell in Possibility -
A fairer House than Prose -
More numerous of Windows -
Superior - for Doors -

Of Chambers as the Cedars -
Impregnable of Eye -
And for an Everlasting Roof
The Gambrels of the Sky -

Of Visitors - the fairest -
For Occupations -This -
The spreading wide my narrow Hands
To gather Paradise -

Emily Dickinson

Posted by ultra/amyl at 3:41 AM CST
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Thursday, 25 March 2004

What I miss is a stretch of highway at night - dark and lonesome through Mississippi, and you stop for gas at a run-down four-pump station and there?s a black man preaching the gospel out front and a beat-up black Cadillac at the other pump - and then grey into Atlanta and snaking down to watch the sunrise over Highway 1 in Florida - exhaustion; and an all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet that charges extra for orange juice. By the second day in the sandy beach house, you have lobstered legs and eat nothing but ice cream.

What I miss is the exhilaration of driving down Long?s Peak when the stars are out. Lean foreword on the dash and get dizzy from the stars and the curves and the night air rushing through your windows and the smallness of your self on this lone mountain in the majestic range dividing the continent on earth in the galaxy - and down past the tree line, past the forest fire warnings, you see the one little hill that?s waiting for a house to be built on top, that?s waiting for a woman with twelve cats to take up residence, and the horse barns across the road.

What I miss is the road north through America?s heartland, marked by erect grain silos staking the masculine territory and hand painted signs calling down fire on abortion doctors - a road so straight you can sleep and wake an hour later to the same wavy fields on either side and the same ribbon of black unswervingly stretched out in front of you. There, when the storms come, you can see them miles ahead - you can watch the clouds gather and the color fade, and you can see the sheets of rain, like the curtain that was torn, long before you drive into them and they plunk onto your windshield so that now you see through a glass dimly. Then you only drive with your hazards on, or you pull off onto the side and listen to storm and to the local radio, one station telling you which streets are closed and the other doing song dedications, all the voices so chummy and intimate that it makes you feel that you belong in this lifeless town which makes all its money from tourists spending single nights at the motels when they pass through on their way to someplace better.

But it?s been said better, like

Well, the moon moved past Nebraska, and spilled laughter on them cold Dakota hils - and angels danced on Jacob?s stairs. There is this silence in the badlands, and over Kansas the whole universe was still, like the whisper of a prayer - and you see the hawk burst into flight and in the east the whole horizon is on flame - and with the prairies I am calling out your name?

Or

Well the coal trucks come running, their bellies full of coal and their big wheels humming down this road that lies open like the soul of the woman who hid the spies who were looking for the land of the milk and the honey - and this road she is a woman, and she was made from a rib cut from the side of these mountains, oh these great sleeping adams who were lonely even here in paradise, for somebody to kiss them?

Posted by ultra/amyl at 11:25 PM CST
Updated: Friday, 26 March 2004 2:46 AM CST
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Saturday, 20 March 2004
Kramer vs. Me
Last night I watched Kramer vs. Kramer (1979, Dustin Hoffman and Meryl Streep) for the first time. This film, produced two years before I was born, tells the story of a mother who leaves her husband and her five year old son to ?find herself?. She returns eighteen months later asking for custody of her son, and the husband and wife battle in court. The film makes two points that were, at the time, rather groundbreaking and controversial. First, it points out the negative effects of male workaholism in a marriage. Ted?s (Hoffman) absorption in his work leads him to neglect his wife and child and their needs. Second, the film argues persuasively that a father can care for and raise a child as well as a mother can.

But the most startling thing about the movie is its prescient summary of the feminist movement in the latter half of the twentieth century. Meryl Streep as Joanna Kramer is the everywoman feminist ? in her refusal to be identified only as a wife and mother, something less than a human being; in her soul search; and in her discovery that, in the end, she desperately wants a child.

Let me explain. In the nineteen fifties, feminists advanced the idea that a woman cannot find fulfillment in ?traditional? female roles. In The Feminine Mystique, Betty Friedan wrote, ?We can no longer ignore that voice within women which says: ?I want something more than my husband and my children and my home.?? Well-educated, well-off homemakers in the 1950s were unfulfilled by the role that mothers, magazines, and media had promised would bring them happiness. In fact, thousands of suburban wives were suffering from sickness and depression, seeking comfort in lithium addictions. Caught up in the dailyness of cooking, cleaning, and chauffeuring, women quietly asked themselves ?Is this all??

Friedan criticized a culture that would not allow women to voice that question, but that instead exalted on television and in magazines a hyper-feminized woman whose main goals were to please her husband and raise model children in a spotless home. ?No other road to fulfillment was offered to American women in the middle of the twentieth century,? she writes. In response to the feminist plea, America instated sweeping government programs, put tens of billions of dollars in social spending, and underwent massive social upheaval in the name of sexual equality.

Conservatives may dismiss Friedan?s work and conclusions, but I can?t do that. The fact is, she was right about a lot of things. Sociological studies show that women had in fact been taught that marriage and motherhood alone would bring them fulfillment ? and that wasn?t true then and isn?t true now. Men were also bound by narrow gender roles. Men, coming out of the world wars, believed that they had to play the same role at home that they had played on the battlefields; they were there to conquer, to succeed, and never to show weakness. Ted Kramer is a good example; he believed that his role as a married man was to conquer the workplace and ?bring home the bacon?.

Both men and women, then, were bound by constricting gender roles, and something had to be done about it. Joanna Kramer, and feminists in the sixties and seventies, decided that the thing to do was to find some way other than marriage and motherhood to define themselves. Joanna?s decision to leave her marriage for a journey of self-discovery through therapy in California mirrors the feminist movement in those decades, as women claimed the right to be just as selfish as men.

Finally, Joanna found herself and realized how much she wanted her child ? a realization that most feminists from the sixties and seventies didn?t come to until the nineties. But now, many feminists are clamoring for children. Many modern feminists are even beginning to embrace traditional roles over careers.

The choice of Brenda Barnes, one of the highest ranking female executives in the country, to resign from her job as CEO of Pepsi-Cola North America in 1997 received a great deal of media attention. She made the decision, she told the press, after one of her children said it would be okay for her to keep working if she would ?promise to be home for all our birthdays.?

Sarah McLachlan, folk rock singer and founder of Lilith Fair, decided to end the music festival in favor of having children. When asked when she would resume her career she shrugged. ?It could be three years, it could be ten years, it could be forever.? Most notable is the defense offered by former journalist Iris Krasnow who gave up a top-flight career to take care of four little boys. She says, ?Motherhood is about deciding not to fight that ancient and biological yank on the womb, that natural order of your soul that says you should be there. If we don?t want to work eighty hours a week in some office and get our family life eaten up, why should we feel as though we?re selling out feminism? I?m a committed feminist, and there?s nothing more powerful to me than refusing to abandon motherhood.?

In Creating a Life (2002), Sylvia Ann Hewlett chronicles the stories of thousands of highly successful American women who found the possibility of raising children eliminated by the demands of ?high-altitude? careers, and who try desperately late in life to get pregnant. Even popular fiction highlights the professional woman?s ache for children; books like Dating Big Bird feature protagonists on the man-hunt simply so that they can have children before the biological clock stops ticking. Joanna?s late realization of how much she longs for her child is the realization of thousands of women in America today.

And where does this leave me? Twenty-two years old, I?ve grown up with the voices of Joanna Kramer, Betty Friedan, and Iris Krasnow all whispering in my ears. I?ve been brought up to believe that I should find my talents and fulfill my potential. I?ve heard the feminists say that I won?t be able to do that with marriage and children alone, and I?ve heard neo-feminists like Danielle Crittendon say that if I refrain from committing to marriage, my capacity to love will shrink and I?ll grow old wishing that I had children. And I?ve seen enough women try to balance career and motherhood that I know how rarely it can be done well. A choice of some kind has to be made. But how do I reconcile these conflicting urges in my soul; how do I understand this confused heritage of gender?

I tried to explain my dilemma to an older single friend recently ? one who, personally successful, wishes she could be married with kids. I said, ?I understand ? I get the point that twenty years from now, I?m going to wish that I had children. But even if I intellectually grasp that fact, that doesn?t mean that I can just go out and get married right now, so that I?ll be happy later in life.? She said, ?Why not??

Why not? I didn?t know how to explain it then, and I?m not sure I do now. I can?t do that because it?s a utilitarian view of marriage and men. I can?t say, ?Because in twenty years I?m going to want kids, I?m now going to give up my other talents and ambitions and go find a husband (read: sperm donor) to ensure my future happiness.? There is as much selfishness in that as there is in Joanna Kramer?s leaving her husband and son. My motivation for marriage and motherhood has to be broader than that.

So still I?m at a standstill. I?m twenty-two and a year out of college, and I have all roads open to me: graduate school, a career, international volunteer work, marriage. And at the crossroads I listen to the confused voices of my feminist fore bearers -- and they?re pointing me in every direction at once.

Posted by ultra/amyl at 11:38 PM CST
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Tuesday, 16 March 2004
Wednesday Morning; Vietnamese Friends
Now Playing: Beth Orton "Paris Train"

My swatch battery stopped working.

Last night Mai (My)came over and she took me to Thuy?s (Twee) house to pick up my electric bike. Before I go on, let me describe these two students.

Mai is the student I have the deepest relationship with, because we have the most important thing in common. She?s twenty years old and a first year student. She?s a poet, she?s incredibly intelligent, and she likes to wear all black. She adores the Backstreet Boys, but realizes that that?s kind of adolescent of her. She?s zealous. She?s too thin, with a diamond shaped face, crooked teeth, and intense eyes.

Thuy is a third-year student. Each class in the university has a ?monitor,? who is like the class president - Thuy is the monitor for her class, and she?s the only female monitor that I?m aware of in the whole university. Her father is a teacher in the English department. She?s a Party member and she believes strongly in Vietnam and its tradition and politics. Her life plan is to become a headmistress of a high school in Vinh (and I should point out that most high schools here have headmasters, not headmistresses). Thuy has the greatest sense of humor that I?ve found in Vietnam. I realized a few weeks ago when I was at her house that her sense of humor is due to her older brother -- but she?s got a kind of sarcasm and wittiness that I love. She?s intelligent and hardworking and playful, and one of the closest reciprocating friends I have here. I can depend on her. She?s got a large, round, expressive face and a confident way of moving through life.

So anyway, Thuy?s family has been storing the bike for me while I waited for the ramp to be built to the storage room in my building. I got to Thuy?s house and gave her parents some flowers and we sat down in their front room for some water and fresh fruit from the garden. Her mom asked (in Vietnamese) if the weather was not suitable to me in Vietnam; I looked too thin. Her father was so worried about me driving the bike back to school in the dark that he asked Thuy to follow behind me, with Mai in front of me - he joked about me being a queen with bodyguards before and behind. I told him he and his wife were my Vietnamese parents.

When we got back to school, Mai said that she was afraid that I was too tired to study with her, so she was going to give me a back massage while we talked.

My Vietnamese friends take such good care of me. They serve me, they laugh with me, they watch out for me. I am very blessed by them.
---------------------------------------
There is one slight problem. The ramp built on the stairs was put on the side, in a place where there?s not enough room to angle my bike up onto the ramp. It took all three of us to get it up and in last night. But at least it?s here.

Posted by ultra/amyl at 7:20 PM CST
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Monday, 15 March 2004
Tuesday Morning
Now playing: Fernando Ortega "O Thou In Whose Presence"

We arrived in Hanoi Saturday morning at about 5:30. We had to wake Sandy (the country director) to unlock her house for us, and then the three of us sat around with hot drinks and talked. Around eight Sandy had to start preparing for a baby shower that she was holding at 10 for two expecting ex-pats. Susan, Tina, and Linda came over, and we were all in the kitchen together, talking and cutting up fruit for the fruit salad and hovering over things in the oven. Suddenly, it was the most familiar feeling in the world - being in the kitchen with a bunch of chattering women - and I liked it. (Who is the black woman who has written about this?) I stood there slicing grapes and only listening.

The house was full of stargazer lilies and pink and yellow roses (Clarissa decided she would buy the flowers herself - and she got teased for paying too much for them).

Hanoi was cold and wet. We spent most of our time sitting around talking with members of Team Vietnam - talking either about language school or about Sandy Harrison's dog Bella. We shopped a little bit, we ate good western food, and we watched "lost in translation" and "something's gotta give," both of which I brought specifically for Sandy.

We got back this morning at 4:30. The train last night was sold out of beds, so we had seats, and didn't sleep much at all. But it's bearable for three materialistic reasons: One, I brought four new books back from Sandy's house; Two, we purchased a blender to make fruit smoothies; and, most importantly, Three, when we arrived at Vinh university in the greyness of the morning we saw a new iron ramp on the stairs of my building...meaning, that today my electric bike can come home to stay.

Posted by ultra/amyl at 10:32 PM CST
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Friday, 12 March 2004
Various Observations, cont.
Today, walking to class, I walked past a girl wearing an embroidered, rather bright pink corduroy jacket, and I liked it and wondered how it would look on me. Perhaps living in Vietnam has influenced my sense of style? Not that I had much to begin with, but still...

Since I bought my Thai jeans, I haven?t worn my Abercrombie jeans once. The Thai jeans are much cuter (and 80% cheaper). I realize this sounds like a silly, materialistic thing to be writing about. But I say it because tonight I had a sudden urge to wear my old jeans, and after I put them on, I had a rush of memory.

Last year I used to often walk to and from school. I would tramp through the tall grass behind the Peterson?s house, slip behind Barnes and Noble, then dart across Texas Ave and trek across the huge empty green field until I reached the parking lot at the edge of campus. I had a vivid memory today of walking across the greenness of the field, the dew on the tall grass leaving me with damp jeans and dirty Birkenstock-ed feet, the sky huge and white above me, and my mind full, echoing with the new music from my headphones or chasing thoughts about 17th century poets and postmodern novelists.

There are some parts of being an American college student that I really miss.

Sandy and I decided this morning to go to Hanoi this afternoon - she needs to talk with some people there about the option of going to language school next year. We are wildly spontaneous, don't you think? Just flying off to Hanoi at the drop of a hat.

I love my students.

Angelfire chooses the little ads that run on the top of this page. They have some kind of search engine that scans the words in my journal and picks ads that should correspond to my interests. So, it's not surprising when I have ads running like "Teach English in Bangkok" or something. But I noticed today that the ad is for harlequin romance novels. What does that say about me, huh?

Posted by ultra/amyl at 1:48 AM CST
Updated: Friday, 12 March 2004 7:34 AM CST
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Thursday, 11 March 2004
Observation
When the rice in the bottom of the rice cooker gets a little overdone, it turns brown and crunchy, and begins to smell like Rice Krispies cereal.

Posted by ultra/amyl at 1:22 AM CST
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Tuesday, 9 March 2004
"Now Playing" and other rants
3:50pm
My sister and her hipster friends write online journals on xanga.com. Xanga has a nifty marketing feature of which I?m a little jealous; at the beginning of each journal entry, my sister can put an icon that says ?now playing? or ?now watching? or ?now reading? and a picture of the cover of the cd, movie, or book that she is playing, watching, or reading. The picture is also a link to the product at amazon.

Now, this is slightly troubling, because it?s an indication of how much we in America define ourselves by our consumer products. In the beginning of the movie ?Fight Club,? the narrator talks about how he started living the ?Ikea? life, buying Ikea products until his apartment matched the advertising photos in the Ikea catalog. The movie points out that finding identity in consumer products is emasculating, but it?s actually more than emasculating. It?s un-identifying yourself at the same time as you are identifying yourself. It?s limiting, in several ways. And defining yourself by the music you listen to is little different from defining yourself by how Ikea-savvy you are.
Now Playing: Dear Chicago (Ryan Adams)
(Do I want to be defined as a person who listens to Ryan Adams? Shoot?it?s too mainstream. Ok.)
Now Playing: New South (Kate Campbell)
(You think it?s too twangy?Fine.)
Now Playing: You Know So Well (Sondre Lerche)
(You think I just like him cause he?s cute? Yeah, you?re right.)

Ah, the anxieties of defining yourself in the consumer culture. I?m still writhing over my decision. Should I have gone with Rosie Thomas or Patty Griffin or stuck with a trustworthy Belle and Sebastian? Of course you must be ?unique,? since in America we are all non-conformist individuals; however, only some kinds of ?different? are cool. So it?s tough. It?s tricky. You gotta be light on your feet.
I hope you can read my tone.
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Today we have spring weather and sunny skies in Vinh. It?s been cloudy and chilly for a couple of weeks, and the change in weather motivated me to get out on my bike (not my electric bike, which isn?t here yet because I don?t yet have a garage, but the old fashioned cycle). I had been putting off my shopping, but really, with warm weather - with a mother who yesterday ran a marathon - and with the fact that a year ago at the time I was nearly killing myself hiking down into the Grand Canyon - there was just no excuse for me to avoid the 101 stairs and couple of kilometers to the supermarket. Our supermarket is so amazing for a provincial town in Vietnam. This week we actually have salsa and raisin bran. It?s wonderful.
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I just finished reading Catfish and Mandala by Andrew Pham, a Vietnamese-American. It was really moving. That and some reading I?m doing for Wheaton are leading me to think a lot about cross-cultural attitudes.

In centuries past, when people went abroad, they far too often took an imperialistic sense of cultural superiority with them. They went to teach the ?uncivilized? peoples the ?right? way to live. Now, in western countries that attitude is far less prevalent, though certainly not dead. Now, scholars teach us that all cultures are good, and one culture is not better than another; thus, we should go and learn from other cultures with an open mind, never imposing our value systems on them.

This is a good and helpful way of thinking about cross-cultural interaction, but not an entirely correct one. It?s true that we should go to a new culture with the open mind of a learner, but at some point we also have to pass judgment. At some point, we have to be willing to say, ?This is a good aspect of the cultural tradition, and this is an aspect that ought to be changed.? If we?re afraid to say that, then we won?t really be able to learn anything about that culture or about the culture from which we?ve come.

Young Americans often take the popular liberal attitude to an extreme, rejecting western cultural imperialism and universalism so strongly that they reject the entire culture with it. They come to travel in eastern countries seeking a ?simplicity? and ?goodness? that they believe cannot be found in their home culture, which they see as decadent and ruined. Reading Andrew Pham?s view of America and Vietnam helped me to realize the good that exists even in the flawed American culture.
------------------------------------------
I really miss my car today. I find it hard to appreciate music as much without the highway. There's nothing like a couple of hours alone in the car with some tapes.

Posted by ultra/amyl at 3:31 AM CST
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Friday, 5 March 2004
The Foreigner's Short Guide to Vietnamese Culture
By Class 42

Things you should know:
1. When giving or recieveing something, show your respect by using two hands.
2. Don't point with one finger.
3. Give your guests water when they come over, whether they drink it or not.
4. Don't kiss in public.
5. Don't eat in the class.
6. If a person dies, burn everything related to that person.
7. If a parent dies, the child must wait three years before getting married.
8. The usual greeting is "where are you going?"
9. People in the North like sour food; people in the center like sugary food; and people in the south like chili food.
10. Before traveling or taking an exam, you should eat fish; you should not eat eggs or dog meat.
11. Girls aren't allowed to sit on a broom. (?)
12. It's impolite if you don't say "hello" first when you meet an older person.
13. If you invite someone to go eat or drink something, you must pay for both of you.
14. Don't open a present in front of the giver.
15. It takes three days for a dead person's soul to escape the body.
16. When a mother thinks a child is difficult to bring up, she will sell the child's soul to the pagoda so that the baby will become easier to bring up.
17. At a funeral you should wear white and dark clothes, not wonderful clothes.
18. If two weddings meet each other on the road, the brides should exchange flowers.
19. Vietnamese often ask some questions about your salary, age, marriage status...don't be offended.
20. In Vietnam, there are usually three generations living under one roof.
21. Vietnamese usually drink boiled water instead of coffee or tea.
22. Foreign people shouldn't dance or shake their bodies in public.
23. Don't be surprised when people put food in your bowl. They are being friendly.
24. Don't praise a pretty baby in public. It's bad luck for the child.
25. Don't be surprised if you find this country more peaceful and its people more kind and hospitable than any other.

Posted by ultra/amyl at 6:21 PM CST
Updated: Friday, 5 March 2004 6:25 PM CST
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