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The Canadian Rockies, a trip to remember...

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Our recent trip to the Canadian Rockies and Vancouver area was a magnificent and colorful adventure, so I felt the need to document it.

 

                                                                                        Sam Har-Zahav

                                                                                                          July 2003

 

After a 5 days visit to our daughter in Chicago, we flew on June 30th to Calgary and rented a car that we would later return in Vancouver.  A full size car for 10 days including all insurances, 2 drivers and a full tank of petrol was USD 480.  Calgary airport is very friendly and the cars are waiting for you just a short walking distance from the rental car counters.

 

DAY 1

A 1:30 h easy drive from Calgary airport west on Highway 1 takes you to the southern gate of Banff National Park, which is the first park you will be visiting during your adventure in the Canadian Rockies. The Canadian police seriously enforce the law and any traffic violation such as speeding, running a red light or parking violation might ruin your great holiday, so relax and take it easy. At the gate you will be asked to state the total number of days you plan to stay in the Canadian Rockies parks. The fee is about USD 10 a day. The pass you will get will be inspected from time to time along your travel. I suggest staying in Banff for 3 nights in order to avoid too many hotel checking-in’s.

During the summer the sun sets after 10 PM so after checking in to your hotel you still have time to start exploring this beautiful park.

 

Lake Minnewanka

 Is about 10 KM north east of Banff. The lake is very nice and we managed to catch gimps of elks, bighorn sheep and deer walking along the small roads.  Take the full loop to Two Jack Lake (it is unique) and Johnson Lake as a place for a relaxing walk along the lake bank.

 

 

 

The powerful Bow waterfalls are in the center of Banff and are best seen from the south bank of the Bow River not far from the Banff Springs Hotel.

Walking along Banff Avenue in the town center is a nice way to finish off the day.

 

 

 

DAY 2

Start with the Gondola cable car ride to Sulphur Mountain. You will be at over 2,200 meter above sea level with a beautiful view of Banff and the surrounding snow covered mountains. Don’t stop there; take the extra walk along the wooden deck all the way to the historical observation point. The 360-degree view is amazing. Many ground squirrels will welcome you there.

Next is a short visit to the Banff Spring Hotel and the Cave and Basin national historic site in Banff.

 

The Hoodoos trail is on the east side of Banff at the end of Tunnel Mountain Road. It is a delightful 40 min altogether walk to see Bow River from a nice viewpoint and to explore the strange natural pillars.

 

We leave Banff toward road number 1, we cross it going east and up the mountain to Banff Mount Norquay. A nice road up to the observation point looking over Banff. Park the car and walk along the mountain terrace field. Nice view and many ground squirrels.

 

 Johnson Canyon and its two water falls. About 5 KM north of Banff on road number 1 take a right to road 1A that will lead you to Johnson Canyon. The 20 min drive on road 1A is one of the richest areas in terms of wildlife. Drive and enjoy the scenery and watch for the Elks and the black bears. Most of the walking along the canyon is on wooden platforms, which hang on the canyon walls above the river. It takes about 15-20 min to reach the first water fall but don’t be lazy and continue to the upper fall, about an additional 35-45 min. All together it is an experience of over 2 hours to see the two falls and to return to your car.  

 

 

On the way back to Banff, time permitted, you can go back to Lake Minnewanka and take the boat tour to Devil’s Gap as a relaxing way to finish your first full day in the Canadians Rockies.

Walking in Banff town center and visiting the food court in Cascade Plaza is a nice way to wrap up the day.

 

 

DAY 3

We start the day with a beautiful visit to lake Louise. It is about a 50-min drive on road 1 or a little over an hour using 1A, which is nicer. Walk along Lake Louise all the way to the Glacier. It is a nice easy walk taking less than an hour return. 

 

Moraine Lake is a 20-min drive from Lake Louise. The water there has a beautiful turquoise color and 10 very high mountain peaks covered with year around snow surround it. Walk alone the right bank of the lake for 15-20 min to get a better look at the ten peaks.

 

Driving back to road 1 and heading north will soon bring you to an intersection where you continue west on road 1 to Field. We are leaving Banff national park and entering YOHO national park.  First stop after about 10-min drive in the park, on your right hand side, is the Spiral Tunnel Viewpoints overlooking the tunnels completed in 1909. These railway tunnels provide a safe grade for the trains crossing Cathedral Mountain.

Continue 3 KM west on road 1, which will bring you to a right turn leading to Takakkaw Falls, one of the highest waterfalls in Canada. This beautiful 13 KM road has some tight turns. Drive carefully. The falls are a short 10 min walk from the car parking.

Back to road 1 and few min driving brings you the Fields. Stop at the tourist information and get some info on the area.

 

Emerald Lake is a must in our Canadian Rockies tour. Right after Field turn right and stop for few minutes to see the Natural Bridge, a result of the waterpower Kicking Horse River. Emerald Lake deserve a circle walk which

 

 

 

will take you about 2 hours. Start from the left hand side, clockwise! You will discover some beautiful rain forest there. 

 

Wapa Falls are about a 20-min drive further west on road 1. If time permits and you feel like walking in a rain forest style trail for about 80-90 min return, you will encounter a very nice water fall. Once you reach the first terrace looking at the fall, go down an additional 200 meters to the lower observation point, which has a much better view angle of the fall. The entrance to the trail is from the left side of road 1 but there is no left turn there. Continue west for a suitable place to make a U turn.

 

Back to Banff for an overnight stay.

 

 

 

DAY 4

Most of the visitors to the Banff and Jasper parks leave their hotel in Banff or Lake Louise and spend the next night in Jasper. I believe this is a bit hasty causing you to miss some nice places to see and walk. I suggest spending one night in The Crossing motel, about 80-Km north of Lake Louise, and to explore the area.

Also it is a good head start for the Icefield Center and the Snocoach glacier tour, the day after.

Leaving north on road 1 we will enter the famous Icefields Parkway #93. It is one of the most beautiful scenic roads in the world. A 230-KM drive takes you all the way to Jasper, the next town in the parks.

Drive and enjoy the scenery, mainly the left (west) side. Each and every mountain is a picture by itself.

 

 

 

 

Crowfoot Glacier, our first stop 35 KM from Lake Louise. Use your binoculars to explore the huge glacier. 

 

 

 

 

Peyto Lake is only 5 min drive and we reach the Bow Summit and the trailhead to the lake. It is a short but steep walk to one of the most astonishing, turquoise lake in the parks. On the left side, up the mountain, you can see the glacier feeding the lake. Walk alone the short trails there and enjoy nature. You will not see such a place once you leave the parks.

 

Mistaya Canyon is an additional 32-KM magnificent drive on Icefields Parkway. More water, trees, rocks and the masterpiece made by the power of water.

 

Go and check into The Crossing. Yes, it is still early but you deserve an easy afternoon. By now you covered over 30 KM of walking during the last 3 days, and an easy walk or drive around the area can charge your batteries for the next 3 days, you will need it.

 

 

DAY 5

You are a 40 min drive from your glacier adventure. In the Icefield Center buy a ticket to the Brewster Snow Coach tour. It takes you in a 6X6 huge snocoach up to the Athabasca Glacier. Great experience, take your winter coat with you. Temperatures there are below freezing and may go down to –12° C even during the summer! There is small museum in the Icefield Center to explain the Icefield history. During July and August many tour buses visit the Glacier, so I recommend calling ahead of time to book your tour. It will save you valuable time.

Telephones; 1-877-423-7433, (403) 762-6735.

 

Sunwapta Falls are a 40-min drive north. A nice number of wildlife can be seen along  the way. The upper fall is next to the car parking but take the extra hour to visit the lower fall. On the road to Jasper all the way to the Athabasca Falls you will have several parking lots to stop at and watch the lakes, mountains and the Mountain Goats that are attracted to the mineral – rich soil. 

 

Athabasca Falls are only 30 KM south of Jasper. Coming from the south on Icefields Parkway, you have to take road 93A to the left. Visit the falls and go all the way down to the river. It is beautiful relaxing visit.

 

 

 

The trailhead to the Valley of the five lakes is located nine miles south of Jasper on highway 93. It is a 90 min walk in the forest to 5 nice small lakes. Many kinds of flowers can be seen alone the way. It is easy to moderate trail but if you like walking in the woods, you will love it.

 

Jasper is a nice place to have a hot dinner and to walk around the souvenir and coffee shops but I strongly recommend spending the 2 nights here in one of the bungalows and cabins style motels, located along side the beautiful lakes and rivers around Jasper.

 

DAY 6

If you have a nice clear day, drive to Mount Edith Cavell starting from road 93A south of Jasper. It has a great view of the area. In case of poor visibility day, leave this trip to the afternoon.

 

 

 

 

Maligne Canyon is located south east of Jasper on Maligne road. It is about 20 min walks down the Maligne River. You will cross 4 bridges over this deep river that provide a magnificent view over this thundering river. You can walk back up to the car park for 30 min or continue to the fifth bridge to watch this wide river from other angles. It will take you an additional 20 min walk.

 

Maligne Lake is down the Maligne road.  Snow covered mountaintops surrounding the lake provide a peaceful background for a nice relaxing boat tour available there.

If you are into cable cars journeys, the Jasper Tramway will take you to Whistlers Mountain where you watch the Jasper area view and can enjoy a meal at the Treeline restaurant.

 

In order to watch Elks and other wildlife I drove from Jasper east on road 19, toward Edmonton, for about 45 min and back to Jasper.  In addition to the Elks and wildlife I saw, it was a nice drive as is in many other amazing scenic roads in the parks.

 

 

DAY 7

Today we leave Jasper Park west, on Yellowhead highway # 16 for an hour drive to view Mount Robson, the highest mountain in the Canadian Rockies. The total diving time from Jasper to Vancouver is 8 hours net. You can make in one day or stop at one of the roadside motel in Kamloops. Passing the Mt. Robson tourist information center you take highway 5 south to Kamloops. About 215 KM south of Mt. Robson you reach Clearwater and a small road going north to Helmacken Fall. It is one of the highest waterfalls in Canada, about 300 feet. The visit plus the drive to the falls will take you about an hour and a quarter. If you have some food with you, nice picnic areas are waiting for your lunch.

 

120 KM further south will bring you to Kamloops. Now you make your choice, stay here for the night or push it to Hope or Vancouver and add an extra day to your trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Travel tips:

1.      During July and August hotels prices are about 30–60% higher than May/June. So consider visiting the parks during mid season vs. high season.

2.    During high season book your rooms in advance.

3.    Even in July / August Temperatures can vary between 2-3° C during the night and over 30° C during the day depending which site you visit and time of day. So bring cloth accordingly.

4.    Of course a camera is mandatory, and also bring your binoculars.

5.    There are beautiful well-organized picnic areas all over the parks, so bring your food and have great meals in real nature. Do not feed the wildlife!

6.    You will find supermarkets and minimarkets only in Banff, Lake Louise town center and Jasper.

7.    You will better enjoy the long walks along trails, by leaving your backpack in your car. Just carry a bottle of water, preferably on your back.