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Chinese Practicality

There is a tendency
amongst travel journalists to transform the limited experiences of their
adventures into broad-ranging generalisations about the culture in which
they are barely participating. Before I left New Zealand I read a small
publication by Mervyn Cull concerning his experiences as an 'English Polisher'
for the Chinese English language news magazine Longmarch - it was
itself riddled with examples of this trend - references to 'the Chinese
spirit of steadfast purpose' or 'the Chinese stand-offishness' and suchlike.
Theroux's Riding the Iron Rooster, in which he details his year
spent riding on trains in China (and, to be honest, relatively little about
Chinese people or their culture) similarly attempts a characature of what
he extrapolated to represent the Chinese mentality.
Whilst their
observations may have been fair, I personally attempt to remind myself
to steer away from reducing the billionfold Chinese into a grinning cartoon
for the West: fundamentally, people are only foreign to each other by the
gulf of language, which in a way just means they have different words for
the same thing. Culture in all its forms can be found to have its analogues
across the spectrum of nationality, after having taken into account variations
according to circumstance. Often we fantasise about the freakish mentalities
of people overseas, and young adventurers set out in search of the inestimably
foreign. Many are thwarted in their attempts, discovering after years of
language acquisition that foreigners just sit around talking about their
lunch, too. OK, so it may be that the conversation takes place at some
weird circumcision festival, but the kinship is there. Thus are the complicated
dealings between nations reduced to divisions of mere convention and custom.
It's difficult
to keep this up: often I find myself coming across examples which I reflexively
put down to 'Chinese Practicality' - for example, the discovery that my
concerns that the plugs on my Kiwi appliances might not fit into Chinese
sockets was misfounded, owing to the fact that they install double Australasian
and American sockets direct to the wall. No need for bulky converters -
virtually anything fits - and just in case, any standard multi-board is
equipped to handle anything unusual.
I decided that
this was a mistake to interpret this as a practical measure, more a necessary
admission of the fact that Chinese industry caters for several Western
markets, and needs to distribute all of these items internally too. Besides,
I reflected how easy it would be to blow my hairdryer by ignoring the voltage
used locally - there's no indication of voltage: if you're stupid enough
to plug it in just because it fits, it's your problem. Real Chinese practicality
comes down to individuals too lazy for elegant solutions: take our kitchen
light, which was fitted to the extended apartment front: it's wired via
the light in the neighbouring bathroom, meaning that if you want to illuminate
your cooking, you have to switch on the bulb in the loo as well.
Complacency in the Face
of Anniversary
One occasion
upon which I found it more than usually difficult to resist characterising
the Chinese in one respect or another was that of the 2300th anniversary
of the foundation of Shenyang
2300 years is
an unthinkably long time. My own city of Auckland is a mere couple of hundred
years old, and the history of my whole country goes back barely more than
a thousand years or so. Shenyang was already rocking when the Italians
were mucking around in Jerusalem, and it is still going: I know, I live
here.
I was quite
stunned to learn that I happened to have arrived in Shenyang just in time
to experience this momentous milestone. Xiao mentioned to me just the day
before that September 1 marked the date: I asked if we were going to see
the celebrations. I was told there wouldn't be any.
She wasn't correct
- SYTV did broadcast coverage of a slight parade in Government Square.
But it certainly wasn't anywhere near the scale of what I had imagined
the occasion demanded - I felt like calling the organisers and insisting
upon a better response. There was the mayor of Shenyang, sitting and smiling
disaffectedly as a few girls in colourful frocks tiptoed past the official
assembly. It's not as if Shenyang is a small town - it may not be one of
the leading centres in China, but to be fair, it is the capital of Liaoning
province and at 7,000,000 people has a population twice the size of New
Zealand's entire headcount. The sparse gathering around the gold sunbird
pillars to me just didn't cut it.
I couldn't help
thinking that the Chinese have better things to do than worry about their
city's birthday.
In the evening
I went to a Korean restaurant with my host family here - outside, the red-hot
coals that some sweaty shirtless youth was stoking with a broad poker were
destined for a gritty depression in our table, over which a grill was placed
for the barbequeing of our meats and chunks of tofu. The waiting staff
changed the grill too frequently during the course of the meal, in order
to catch a glimpse of the waiguoren diner.
As we walked
home I heard distant fireworks - someone, at least, had gotten off their
bike for long enough to set off a few crackers. The immeasurable history
of the centre of Qing imperial glory was commemorated thus.
Of course, it's
entirely possible that the fireworks were completely unrelated to the anniversary
- they are regularly let off every day. Therein lie the dangers of cultural
assumption - it's too easy to mistake one event for an indication of Chinese
ways. |