THE FIRST CHANGE

Originally our first backpacking trip was going to a be a 3 day trip into Silas Canyon. However, a few days before we left for Wyoming, we found out that the road to the trailhead was closed due to construction. We needed a replacement at the last minute. I decided to go into Stough Creek Basin from Worthen Meadow Reservoir instead. My primary goal for the original trip to Silas Canyon was an off-trail hike up onto the plateau of Roaring Fork Mountain. That plateau offers views down into several canyons, including Silas Canyon, Atlantic Canyon, and Stough Creek Basin. It’s possible to access the plateau from Stough Creek Basin too, so I could still achieve my primary goal despite the change. The hike to Stough Creek Basin is a little longer and a little harder than Silas Canyon, but I thought it was still reasonable for the first backpack of our trip.

We got up fairly early on Wednesday. After breakfast we packed up camp and got organized for our trip. A short drive brought us to the Worthen Meadow Reservoir trailhead, which had a surprising number of cars for mid-week. It was a hot, sunny morning as we started up the old, rocky road toward Roaring Fork Lake. We started our hike at 8,800’, bound for an unnamed pass at 10,500’. From there, we would descend 400’ to Stough Creek, before heading back up 400’ to the lower end of the lake basin.

I made a mistake at Roaring Fork Lake. The trail fords Roaring Fork at the lake’s outlet. We didn’t want to get our boots wet, so we followed a somewhat overgrown side trail downstream to a log jam that promised a dry crossing. However, the far end of the log jam looked sketchy. From our vantage point, we couldn’t tell if we’d be able to make it across or not. We decided against risking it. We changed shoes, waded across, and changed shoes again. That’s when we found out that there wasn’t any real trail on the far side. We wandered around for a while, before giving up and bushwhacking back to the main trail. Our attempt at keeping our feet dry wasted a lot of time but didn’t accomplish anything.

We rejoined the trail and climbed through the woods. We reached a small stream, where we stopped for lunch. Afterwards, we continued to a boardwalk that crosses a broad meadow. On the far side, we started a grueling climb on switchbacks. After a hearty climb, we stopped to filter water. Then we resumed the climb, finally reaching the unnamed pass separating Roaring Fork and Stough Creek. The pass features a broad meadow with a great view across the Stough Creek valley to the high peaks along the Continental Divide. The highlight was the view of Wind River Peak – the highest point in the southern half of the Wind River Range.

We took a break there before continuing down the trail. A few minutes later, we reached a talus field and another view. This one is partially obscured by trees, but it includes more of the peaks to the northwest. We picked our way through the talus and then enjoyed some easier hiking as we descended into the Stough Creek valley. We crossed Stough Creek on a bridge and took another break. The icy stream was an ideal place to soak our aching feet.

The final climb to Stough Creek Lakes started out easy, but the last push was demanding. It was along this stretch that Christy started feeling sick. She had a fever and chills, which was alarming considering that the whole world was in the middle of a pandemic. It turns out that it was a flare up of Diverticulitis. It’s hard to say if that was better or worse than Covid-19. Fortunately, Christy was able to make it up that final climb to Lake 10,484’. We found a marginal campsite near the next small lake, but I wasn’t thrilled with it. I left Christy there and scouted ahead. I hiked around that lake, and continued up past some cascades at the inlet. Up above I reached the outlet of another lake. My guidebook refers to it as Shoal Lake. I followed the trail around the north side of the lake to some nice campsites back in the woods. I returned to Christy and convinced her to carry on another ¼ mile to the better campsite.

We spent the evening setting up camp and relaxing. Christy still wasn’t feeling well though. In fact, she managed to fall out of her hammock…twice. She landed on a rock the first time, and tore a hole in her bug net the second time.

We went to bed shortly after dark. The mosquitoes were terrible, but they disappeared after dark. That’s lucky, since Christy’s bug net had a gaping hole in it. I got up early the next morning for my hike up onto the plateau of Roaring Fork Mountain. Christy decided to skip the hike and take a rest day. We were hopeful that a day of rest would help her recover.

I left camp and rock hopped the outlet stream. I then cut over to lake 10,528’. I hiked around the southwest side of the lake, passing through a talus field at the base of a cliff. I approached the inlet, but hesitated. My guidebook suggested crossing the inlet stream and then climbing directly up to the plateau. From my vantage, it looked like the route would be through a mixture of talus and willows. Instead, I decided to head upstream along the inlet stream. I crossed the stream just below a tarn and then started up at an angle. This route worked well, except for one stretch on a cliff covered in willows. That was tedious, as the willows were so thick it was impossible to see my feet! Once beyond that, I just worked my way up the slope by the path of least resistance.

I reached the crest of the plateau at 11,000’. I was hoping for a grassy stroll, but the plateau is a sea of talus. I slowly worked my way south, passing west of Point 11,845’. I then traversed southeast, through more talus. The views all along here were fantastic, particularly back down into Stough Creek Basin. The plateau wasn’t all rocks, either. There were masses of golden flowers in every direction.

I continued all the way to the southeast edge of the plateau to look down on Silas Canyon. I wasn’t able to hike TO Silas Canyon, but at least I could get a view of it! Thumb Lake and Island Lake unfolded below me. My favorite feature though was the uppermost lake in the canyon. That one was straight down from my perch. A huge pillar of ice had broken off the headwall and was floating in the lake. It was worth the grueling climb up there just to see that.

I followed the rim of the plateau southwest and south until I could look down into Atlantic Canyon. Then I cut west to the brink of the cliffs above the upper end of Stough Creek Basin. Those cliffs offered the best view of them all. From there, I could see most of the lakes in Stough Creek Basin.

I had lunch there before starting the long hike back. My guidebook mentioned that the walking was easier on the east side of the plateau, so I headed northeast to pass around the east side of Point 11,845’. This route may have been a little easier, but not by much, and it was less scenic. At that point I was mostly just focused on getting back. My feet were killing me, and I was feeling the altitude and the hours of hiking in the sun. After a steep, rocky descent, I found myself next to a small snowfield. I took advantage of the opportunity to ice my feet there.

I continued north and then headed down directly towards the inlet of Lake 10,528’. I seriously considered following a ridge northwest down towards the outlet, but that ridge is heavily wooded, and I feared it would require thick bushwhacking. It may have been worth a try, as the direct route sucked as much as I feared. I slowly picked my way down through the talus, avoiding the willows as much as possible. I crossed the inlet, and followed my earlier route back to camp. I returned by late afternoon and found Christy napping in her hammock. She was feeling better, and we discussed doing a short hike together to some of the lakes in the basin. Ultimately, we decided against it though. I regretted not seeing more of the basin, though I had seen almost all of it from above! If we return here, I’ll need to allow a full day to see all of the lakes.

That evening we were treated to a spectacular, colorful sunset. I endured horrific mosquitoes while taking photos from the lakeshore. We went to bed shortly after dark again that night.

The next morning we had oatmeal and coffee before packing up and hiking out. We saw a fair number of people on the hike out, as it was a Friday afternoon. We’d seen a fair number of people on the hike in, too, but hardly anyone in Stough Creek Basin and no one on Roaring Fork Mountain. Stough Creek Basin is so large and has so many lakes, there could be hundreds of people there and you wouldn’t know it.

The hike out was uneventful. Luckily, Christy was feeling better. She didn’t struggle nearly as much as she had on the way in. Back at the car, we enjoyed cold beers while debating what to do next.

Back to Wyoming

Back to Hiking and Backpacking Trip Reports

Home

Please remember to Leave No Trace!