HORSE JAM

We spent a second day off in Pinedale following our trip into the headwaters of the Middle Fork of Boulder Creek. I used most of that morning to plan out the rest of our trip. We had 3 ½ free days before we would drive north to finish up our trip in the Beartooth Absaroka Wilderness in southern Montana. Christy’s knee was sore from the previous backpacking trip, and was inclined to take some time off to recover. She didn’t mind hanging out while I did a solo backpacking trip though. I considered a number of options, but there aren’t a lot of great choices on the west side of the Wind River Range in 3 ½ days. Ultimately, I settled on a loop from the New Fork Lakes north of Pinedale. The loop would take me from the New Fork Lakes through the canyon of New Fork Park and up to the alpine country of the Lozier Lakes. From there I would continue east down to the Green River, and then south to Green River Pass and Summit Lake. I would then follow the Doubletop Mountain Trail west through the No Name Lakes and Cutthroat Lakes and on to Palmer Lake. I then planned to close the loop by descending Palmer Canyon and backtracking through New Fork Park. The loop would be around 30 miles, but I also wanted to spend some time exploring off trail, particularly in the New Fork Lakes. Nancy Pallister’s guidebook recommends several off-trail destinations in the area. Marten Lake and Greeley Point looked particularly intriguing.

I got up at first light on Thursday and made breakfast. We left the campsite at Half Moon Lake and drove back through Pinedale and on to the New Fork Lakes. Most of the drive was smooth, but the last mile or two was riddled with potholes. It was late morning when we finally reached the trailhead. Christy and I parted ways there, with plans to meet there around noon on Sunday.

The parking lot had quite a few cars, and I was surprised to see that quite a few people had signed the trail register in the last couple of days. It appeared that there were quite a few people ahead of me. I was hopeful that I wouldn’t run into many of them. One of the reasons I’d picked this loop was the promise of solitude. It’s a bit off the beaten path, being far to west of the Continental Divide.

My goal for the day was Kenny Lake. That would require hiking around 12 miles and climbing over 3,000’. That seemed ambitious considering that I hadn’t pulled off the early start I’d hoped for. Fortunately, the first half of the hike was easy, and I made good time. I started in wildflower filled woods and then open meadows above the New Fork Lakes. I passed a sandy beach at the upper end of the upper lake and continued up into the mouth of New Fork Canyon. After a brisk climb the trail followed a fast-moving stretch of the New Fork River. I passed above a small waterfall, but I couldn’t just walk by. I felt compelled to check it out. There are actually a series of drops in a boulder garden. The biggest drop is only 10’ or so, but it spills into a gorgeous green swimming hole surrounded by huge boulders. I was tempted to swim, but the water was turbulent and there were more cascades just downstream. Instead I had lunch on a sunny boulder as the river raced by. It was a little early for a break, but the spot was compelling, and I was making good time. I had covered over 3 miles in a little over an hour.

I returned to the trail but ran into an unusual obstacle after a short distance. There were 3 horses on the trail ahead of me, and they appeared to be stuck. There was a vertical rock wall on the left side of the trail, and large boulders on the right. They weren’t moving, and I didn’t see any people around. Squeezing by them wasn’t an option, and the cliff on the left prevented me from going around that way. Instead, I dropped down to the river, and rock hopped upstream along the edge of the stream. Luckily, I was able to pull that off without getting my boots wet. I regained the trail beyond the horses and followed it a short distance to the first river ford. I met the owner of the horses there.

There was a guy and two women at the river. The guy appeared to be in charge of the horses. The women were in the process of fording the river, which was quite entertaining. It was an easy ford – knee deep with a gentle current. Well, it was knee deep if you took the best route. These women were not taking the best route, and they were pretty excited about the entire process. There was a lot of squealing and squawking and giggling, particularly when the second woman stepped into a hole that was waist deep. The guy told me that they were determined to make it to New Fork Park, which was another mile ahead. They couldn’t get the horses through, so he was going to stay with them until the women returned. I cringed, knowing that I would be passing these women at least one more time along the way.

I changed shoes, waded across, and continued up the trail. I decided to do the next ¾ mile in my river shoes since there was another ford before New Fork Park. Despite my large pack and footwear, I caught up with the giggly women quickly. They were still giggling. Before I passed, they told me that they had just arrived in Wyoming and they were light headed because of the altitude. I suppose that could’ve been it. Or maybe they were just really high?

I hurried on to the next ford. Once again, it was pretty easy if you took the best route. I made quick work of it, eager to change back into my boots and get on up the trail before the women caught up. I didn’t want to feel any obligation to help them get across.

I made my escape and reached the entrance to New Fork Park. A vast meadow sprawled ahead of me, bordered by sheer cliffs on both sides. The New Fork River is placid as it runs through that meadow below the cliff walls. I hiked through the sunny meadow, which continues for a couple of miles, up to the mouth of Palmer Canyon. The meadow ends there, and the hike changes dramatically. It’s all uphill from here, no matter which way you go.

I hoofed it up endless switchbacks on a dry ridge. Before long, New Fork Park sprawled below, and the mouth of Palmer Canyon opened up across from me. The grueling climb ended at a junction with the Porcupine Creek Trail. That trail leads north across Porcupine Pass and down Porcupine Creek to Green River Lakes. A gentle stretch of trail led to a cascading stream, where I stopped for a snack and water.

I started the final climb after my break. I ascended along the stream, before rock hopping the creek and winding my way up to the ridge above Kenny Lake. Kenny Lake was my goal for the day, and I still had a couple of hours of daylight to work with. I considered hiking down closer to the lake, but figured that the view would actually be better higher up. I scouted around among boulders and scrubby trees on the hillside west of Kenny Lake. I found a nice spot just north of a small tarn, which was a much closer water source. I set up camp, ate dinner, and spent the rest of the evening relaxing. I went to bed shortly after dark, as I had big plans for the next day.

THE CURIOUS MARMOT

I got up at first light the next morning. It was a calm day, and I took advantage of the conditions to get some photos of the reflections in the tarn below my campsite. Over breakfast I studied the map and a description of an off-trail route to Marten Lake in Nancy Pallister’s guidebook. My initial plan was to hike to Marten Lake, return by the same route, pack up, and then move camp to a site west of Clark Lake. However, after studying the terrain, I changed plans. The direct route from Kenny Lake to Marten Lake looked tough. The route from the pass west of Clark Lake is longer, but it looked easier. I decided to relocate camp first, and then hike to Marten Lake.

I was packing up the sleeping bag inside the tent when I looked over my shoulder. I was startled to see a marmot outside the tent, looking in at me. What was he up to? Unfortunately, my camera and phone were outside, so I wasn’t able to capture the moment.

I hiked down to Kenny Lake, where I found more lovely reflections. I continued east through alpine grassland decorated with wildflowers. I dropped down to another lake, before starting a long, gradual climb towards the unnamed pass west of Clark Lake. I crossed that alpine pass and descended a short distance. Then I left the trail to the northeast, towards a small tarn. Initially I didn’t see any places to camp. I hiked around the south side of the tarn along a rocky ridge. The ridge was broken by a narrow, grassy notch with a flat bottom. That provided a comfortable spot for the tent, and the surrounding rocks offered great views to the east.

I set up camp, had an early lunch, and packed up for my hike to Marten Lake. I returned to the trail and backtracked a bit, before leaving it for an easy stroll through grass and wildflowers. I headed northwest to a large tarn. This pond provided great views of an impressive cliff to the northeast. I continued northwest to another tarn, and then climbed through a little saddle. From there, I dropped down to the southeast shore of Marten Lake.

Marten Lake is a blue beauty with some nice cliffs on the north and west sides. I followed the southeastern shore over to the outlet, where I found a spectacular view. The lake is lovely from there, but the jaw dropper is in the opposite direction. The view northeast down the Marten Creek valley was the biggest highlight in a day full of them.

I enjoyed the view for a while before starting back. I returned by a similar route, but added a side trip to Greeley Point. I dodged an isolated thunderstorm on the way. Luckily it passed just to my south. Once it cleared, I started up the ridge to Greeley Point.

Greeley Point provides cliff top views that are almost as nice as Marten Lake. I enjoyed them for a while before returning to camp. Originally, I had hoped to squeeze in another off-trail hike, to a cliff overlooking the Thompson and Hidden Lakes. However, it was getting late, so I decided to wait and do it first thing the next morning.

I enjoyed a great sunset from the cliff above my campsite. Once again, I went to bed right after it got dark, as I had another big day planned.

CATCHING UP

I got up at first light and returned to the trail. I backtracked a short distance to the pass, before leaving the trail and heading south. I headed upstream along a series of ponds, first south and then southwest. That led to a flat but rocky stroll west, followed by a short climb up a bland looking hill. The hill looked bland from the bottom, but the view from the top was grand. From the edge of the cliff, I looked out over a series of large alpine lakes. The view took in the Thompson Lakes and the Hidden Lakes, with the rim of Palmer Canyon beyond.

I returned by the same route. Early on, I was surprised to see people heading towards me. It was a couple, carrying big packs. We stopped to chat, as we were both surprised to see others. They were on their way to Palmer Lake, taking a cross country route to the No Name Lakes, where they would pick up the Doubletop Mountain Trail. I was also hoping to reach Palmer Lake for the evening. My plan though was to follow trails down to Clark Lake and the Green River, then up to Green River Pass and Summit Lake, and then the Doubletop Mountain Trail west through the No Name Lakes to Palmer Lake. I had considered the shorter, cross country route that they were taking, but it sounded complicated. Plus, I hadn’t hiked any of the actual trails in the area, and I was looking forward to doing that.

This couple had completed several trips in the area over the years. They asked me about my plans, and I told them that I was going to descend Palmer Canyon and hike back out through New Fork Park the next day. They told me that the descent through Palmer Canyon was steep and rough. They suggested descending the Doubletop Mountain Trail and the Boulder Basin Trail to the New Fork River just upstream from the upper New Fork Lake. That route is much shorter, and they said it was actually a better trail. I had wondered about it. Both of my guidebooks omit it, but describe the Palmer Canyon route. The more direct trail does pass through a burned forest, but they told me that the trail was in good condition when they had hiked it a couple of years ago.

That sounded appealing. Christy was planning to pick me up at the New Fork Lakes trailhead early the next afternoon. I had hoped to make it to New Fork Park for my last night, but I was way behind schedule. The Doubletop Mountain Trail is much shorter, and it would save me a couple of hours.

I hurried back to camp, packed up, and returned to the trail. A steep descent led to Clark Lake, which is at the base of some impressive cliffs. A long, gentle descent followed. I crossed Clark Creek several times, and waded Trail Creek. I then picked up the Highline Trail and started climbing again.

I got rained on several times that day. The first was a brief storm that passed through shortly before I reached Green River Pass. From the pass, I strolled through a long flat meadow to Summit Lake. There, I turned west on the Doubletop Mountain Trail. A short climb led to the No Name Lakes, where I caught a second thunderstorm. I continued on through alpine scenery to the Cutthroat Lakes. I finally descended to Palmer Lake late that evening.

I didn’t see any campsites near the lake. I rock hopped Palmer Creek and continued up through a meadow. I veered west off the trail, towards an area that looked promising. Sure enough, there is a good campsite over there, near a pond. Oddly, the outlet stream from that pond drops down to the New Fork River through its own little canyon, rather than joining Palmer Creek.

I set up camp at dusk, just as yet another storm arrived. I endured an icy, cold rain while setting up. Mercifully, it passed as quickly as the first two. I caught some nice light after sunset, and cooked and ate dinner in the dark. I was exhausted, and crawled into the tent after dinner.

SHORT CUT

I got up at first light again the next morning. After a quick breakfast I packed up and returned to the Doubletop Mountain Trail. I struggled up one final climb through grassy meadows to a pass just south of Doubletop Mountain. The peak is easy to climb from there, but I was already behind schedule. I continued on through more rolling meadows on an eroded trail. I finally started descending into the woods, and before long I passed Rainbow Lake.

I continued down through Martin Park and into the burned area. I reached a junction, and turned north on the Boulder Basin Trail. A steady descent on switchbacks followed. Fortunately, the trail had been cleared recently, as the forest was full of deadfall. I finally reached the bottom of the valley, and followed the trail to a ford of the New Fork River. The river is narrow but deep and swift there. Instead, I bushwhacked upstream through thick vegetation a short distance to a spot where the river is wider. There it is only knee deep, and the current isn’t as powerful.

I crossed without any trouble, and climbed up to the New Fork Trail. From there, I made quick work of the easy 2 mile hike back to the trailhead. Despite the short cut, I was still an hour late. Christy was hanging out in the parking lot. She had a delicious fresh sub, chips and salsa, and a cold beer waiting for me. How’s that for quality service? It was my birthday, and I couldn’t have asked for a better series of gifts – a lovely hike, quality refreshments, and a wonderful wife waiting for me.

That afternoon we drove to the Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness in south-central Montana. We took the scenic route. Well, all routes in Wyoming are scenic, so we took the adventurous route. Google Maps really wanted us to drive through Jackson, the Tetons, and Yellowstone. All of those places are crowded in early August. I had a different plan in mind.

We drove out to Green River Lakes Road and headed upstream. After a few miles we turned onto Union Pass Road. We climbed slowly out of the valley. The road was pretty rough in places, but the Subaru was up to the task. Fortunately, the worst parts of the road were early on. The road improved as we went, and we enjoyed some nice views along the way. Traffic was light, too.

The road was excellent on the far side of Union Pass. We drove through Dubois, Riverton, and the Bighorn River Canyon. We enjoyed views of the whitewater and the old railroad tracks and tunnels on the far side of the river. We continued on through Thermopolis and Cody, and continued north into Montana. We were looking forward to finishing up our trip exploring some new areas.

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