HITTING THE HIGHLIGHTS

 

 

Each spring, Darrin’s friend Mitch drives from St. Louis to South Carolina for a week of hiking.  This year they did things a little differently.  Instead of having Mitch drive the whole way in one shot, they decided to meet on Friday afternoon on the Cumberland Plateau.  Their plan was a short backpacking trip to Virgin Falls.  That is one of my all-time favorite places, and Darrin invited me to join them.  Fortunately I was able to catch up on work enough to come along.

 

I met Darrin at the Wal Mart in Hendersonville on Friday morning.  We left my car there, and the dogs and I rode with Darrin the rest of the way.  We drove to Crossville, TN and on to the Virgin Falls trailhead.  Mitch was there waiting there for us.  We arrived early on Friday afternoon, but apparently not early enough.  When we pulled in, the parking lot was already full!  Virgin Falls used to be somewhat under the radar, but apparently word has gotten out about it in the last few years.  I can understand why – it’s one of the most magical places I’ve ever been, with disappearing streams, cliffs, caves, and stunning waterfalls.

 

Our original plan had been to hike in 4 miles to camp at Virgin Falls.  Our backup plan was to stop after 2 miles at Big Laurel Falls.  Both have good campsites.  However, I was concerned that both of those areas would be crowded.  We got confirmation of this from a hiker that was on his way out.

 

We hiked down past the first waterfall, Big Branch Falls.  It’s a small waterfall on a modest stream, so it barely qualifies as a warm up for the waterfalls that were ahead.  A descent on switchbacks brought us to a larger creek.  The crossing here can be difficult when the water is high, but on this particularly day it was an easy rock hop.  On the far side we found a nice campsite that was vacant.  Because we were anticipating crowds at the major destinations, we decided to set up there. 

 

We set up camp before setting off to dayhike to Virgin Falls.  We left camp shortly after 3pm, so we had less than 4 hours of daylight for the 5-6 mile round trip.  Normally that would be plenty, but not in an area with as many attractions and distractions as Virgin Falls.

 

We hiked downstream through a rugged gorge, passing below an impressive cliff.  The streambed was littered with massive boulders, some the size of houses.  The creek features a continuous run of small waterfalls, cascades, and incredible swimming holes.  At one point the creek actually disappears underground when water levels are low, but on our visit the water was up enough that there was flow above ground.  This is a real nice part of the hike, but the trail itself is tedious through here.  It’s very rocky and steep in places, so it requires a lot of concentration.  We were moving pretty slow all the way down to the base of Big Laurel Falls.

 

Big Laurel Falls is one of my all-time favorite waterfalls.  It’s not the biggest waterfall, or even the most beautiful, but it is fascinating.  The creek freefalls over a 40’ cliff, forming a veil of water in front of a massive cave.  The ceiling of the cave is almost as high as the cliff itself, and the cave extends back 100’ or more.  At the base of the falls, the creek runs backwards, underneath itself.  At the back of the cave, it disappears down a sink, never to be seen again.  I’m not sure where the water ends up, but it probably drains into the Caney Fork River at some point.

 

Needless to say, we spent quite a bit of time there exploring and taking photos.

 

From there, an easier but less exciting stretch of trail leads along a slope above the dry valley.  Before long we reached a junction and the loop portion of the trail.  We went left, because I wanted to hit Virgin Falls before it got late.  We bypassed the side trail to the Caney Fork River due to time constraints and headed straight to the falls.

 

Virgin Falls is stunning.  The Virgin River emerges from a cave, runs about 50 yards, and then plunges over a cliff.  It drops some 100-150’, before disappearing down a sinkhole.  The water level there was incredible – it was great to see it at full flow.  Darrin and Mitch were blown away.  Virgin Falls is so incredible it kind of redefines what a spectacular waterfall is.

 

There were several groups camped there, though there was still space for more people.  Despite that, I was glad that we had camped where we did.  I like a bit more privacy when I’m backpacking.

 

We took lots of photos, and Darrin and Mitch ventured down the slippery path to the very base of the falls.  Then we hiked up to the cave at the top of the falls.  There I showed them a secret passage that leads back to a section of the river just upstream from the mouth of the cave.  Afterwards, Darrin spotted an unusually beautiful purple variety of hepatica.  There were quite a few white hepatica in bloom around the area, but only one small clump of the purple flowers.

 

From there we hiked on to Sheep Cave.  We paid a quick visit to the mouth of the cave.  It is possible to hike up the creek into the cave, but we didn’t go in because all of the caves are closed due to White Nose Syndrome – a disease that is decimating the bat populations throughout the eastern United States.  We did see some bats flying around near Virgin Falls, so hopefully the disease hasn’t infected this area.

 

Sheep Creek emerges from a cave, tumbles down a waterfall, and disappears down a sink hole.  It’s like a miniature version of Virgin Falls, but spectacular in its own right.

 

Darrin and Mitch made a sketchy descent along the side of Sheep Falls for a better view and photos.  I was not particularly comfortable with this.  The slope is extremely steep, and it was covered in dry leaves.  Instead, I found a safer, easier descent route near the junction of the main trail and the spur trail to the mouth of Sheep Cave.  I worked my way down carefully, until I reached a point where I could see the entire waterfall.  The viewpoint is on a narrow ridge separating two sink holes.  The first is dry, but the second swallows up the entire flow of Sheep Creek.  This was a really cool spot, and one that I had missed on my previous visits.

 

We left Sheep Cave around 6:45.  We had to hike 3 miles back to camp, and sunset was imminent.  We maintained a fast pace all the way back to Big Laurel Falls, and the daylight lingered most of the way there.  After that, we had to climb the steep, rocky, rugged trail through the gorge in total darkness.  We all hiked without lights as long as possible, but after a couple of stumbles we conceded.  Unfortunately the batteries in my headlamp are old, and it wasn’t putting out much light.  I actually got more use from Mitch’s light, since he was directly behind me.  Despite the circumstances, we managed to return to camp without incident.  We even passed a group of backpackers heading the other way on that final stretch.

 

When we returned to camp, we discovered that another group had moved into the far end of our campsite.  I wasn’t thrilled at first, but it was only 2 people in 1 tent.  This area has gotten so popular that demand for campsites exceeds the supply on nice weekends.  Under the circumstances, it’s necessary to share.

 

We had a pleasant evening around the campfire.  I made jambalaya for dinner, and Darrin made drinks for everyone.  Despite our late return and the campfire festivities, we still made it to bed by 11pm or so.

 

The next morning I made egg, bacon, and cheese sandwiches on bagels for Darrin and myself.  Then we hiked up to Martha’s Pretty Point, which is easily accessible from our campsite.  It’s a moderately challenging hike, with one staircase that is so steep it is really more of a ladder.  Fortunately the dogs found their way around it.  At the top of the cliffs we found a large group (or possibly several groups) camped.  Martha’s Pretty Point offers the only real long range vista in the area (as far as I know), but it is a good one.  The view encompassed the gorge below, and the Caney Fork River valley.  Virgin Falls is out of sight though, hidden by an intervening ridgeline.

 

We returned to camp, packed up, and headed out.  We passed lots of other hikers heading in, including an elderly couple hiking with a park ranger.  We returned to an overflowing parking lot before noon.  Getting out early was advantageous, because we had a lot of other places we wanted to visit that afternoon.

 

We drove into Sparta and got gas, groceries, and snacks.  Then it was on to Burgess Falls State Park, and another of the highlights of the Cumberland Plateau.  We got the last two parking spots in the main lot, though there is an overflow lot nearby.  The park was exceptionally busy, but that is to be expected on a warm, sunny Saturday.  Hiking with the dogs on leashes was tedious, but Darrin helped out by taking Kona.  We hiked downstream along the Falling Water River, passing some impressive cascades, the upper falls, and the middle falls. 

 

There isn’t a good viewpoint for the upper falls.  The trail is on a cliff above the river, and a safe route down was not apparent.  The best part of this waterfall was the shell of an old suspension bridge hanging above the falls.  The bridge ended at a sheer cliff on the far side of the river.  There is a rough, but tiny tunnel here.  It is way too small for a train or even a car.  Perhaps it was some sort of mine once upon a time?

 

The trail stays high above the river all the way to the middle falls.  The view of the middle falls is better, but still not great for photography.  From there, the trail continues to an upper vantage point of Burgess Falls.  Burgess Falls is one of the most incredible waterfalls I’ve ever seen.  Its formation is unique, in that the cliff that it falls over has a triangular shape, with the point of the triangle facing downstream.  As a result, the water falls off both sides and the front in a raging torrent.

 

From the upper vantage we descended a trail to the brink of the falls.  From there we continued down a staircase, and then a rocky, slippery trail that required some mild scrambling.  Keeping the dogs on leashes here was impossible, so we let them go, retrieving them at the bottom.  The view from the base is cool, but it is a difficult place for photos.  The spray is intense, and there is only one spot that you can capture the entire waterfall without being drenched.  Of course the whole area was crawling with people, so if you want photos of this waterfall without strangers in them, come early in the morning or on a weekday, or both.

 

We climbed back up from the base of the falls before returning to the parking area on a gravel road.  This was a lot easier than hiking with the dogs along the narrow, crowded trail.

 

From there, we drove on to Fall Creek Falls State Park.  I had reserved us a campsite there, which turned out to be quite nice.  It was a very private site, without any immediate neighbors. 

 

We squeezed in a couple of hikes that afternoon.  First we hit the Cable Trail, to access the base of Cane Creek Falls and Rockhouse Creek Falls.  The Cable Trail is extremely steep and rugged.  A steel cable runs the length of it, and it is necessary at one stretch that requires some significant scrambling.  When we reached that point, we realized that the dogs would never be able to get down.  I’d done this hike twice before, but somehow I’d forgotten that detail.  Since I’d been there before, I decided to wait with the dogs while Darrin and Mitch continued to the bottom. 

 

Actually, while they continued, I doubled-back to another trail that follows the rim of the gorge.  I followed it out to an overlook, which gave me an aerial view of Cane Creek Falls.  The view isn’t great since it is partially obscured by trees, and Rockhouse Creek Falls isn’t visible from there.  Still, it was better than nothing. 

 

I returned to the top of the Cable Trail just as Darrin and Mitch were starting up.  They were blown away by the view from the base.  It is another of my all-time favorites, and I’m glad they were able to experience it.

 

From there we headed over to the Nature Center.  Our goal was a short hike to another aerial vantage point that encompasses Cane Creek Falls, Rockhouse Creek Falls, and the immense pool that both waterfalls spill into.  Getting there requires crossing a swinging bridge over Cane Creek.  The dogs balked though, and I wasn’t inclined to push them.  Once again I decided to wait while Darrin and Mitch continued.  This time, I worked my way down to the base of Cane Creek Cascades, which is directly below the swinging bridge.  I found a good vantage point, and waited for Darrin and Mitch.  When they returned, I got photos of them on the bridge with the cascades directly below.

 

At that point, we had just enough daylight to visit Fall Creek Falls and Coon Creek Falls.  We drove over there, fully intending to hike to the base.  That would’ve required a return hike in the dark, but the trail is paved.  However, the road in there has a gate, and the sign stated that the gate would be closed at dark.  We didn’t want to get stuck in there, so we dropped our plans to hike to the bottom.  We had to settle for the tourist view from the upper vantage, which is still excellent.  Fall Creek Falls is a 250’+ freefall – arguably the highest freefalling waterfall in the eastern U.S.  Coon Creek Falls is immediately adjacent to it, but the creek is much smaller (except during periods of extremely high water).   

 

We left shortly before dark and returned to camp.  I made chili and salads for everyone, and we rounded out the evening with another campfire, beer, and moonshine.  Fortunately the rain held off until long after we headed to bed.  It started raining after 3am, and was going strong when we got up the next morning.  It didn’t show any sign of abating, so we packed up our wet tents in the rain and hit the road.  Originally we had planned to visit a couple of other waterfalls on the way home, but the weather was too nasty for additional hiking.  The drive was fairly smooth, except for one wreck on I-40 just west of the Smokies that completely halted traffic for 30 minutes.  Fortunately that delay wasn’t nearly as bad as it could’ve been.

 

It was a great trip in one of my favorite places, and I’m glad Darrin and Mitch got to see some of the most spectacular waterfalls in the southeast. 




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