CHUNKY GAL

Last week, I traveled to the mountains of north Georgia for a work assignment. After working one day in Blairsville, I headed up to Hayesville, NC for a related job. Unfortunately, both days required counting lumber in sub-freezing conditions. The first serious storm of the winter had struck on New Years Day, leaving behind a little snow and a lot of cold air. I spent most of Thursday morning experiencing it first-hand, walking around in a lumber yard in 8-degree weather. The good news is that I finished before lunch time, leaving me with the entire afternoon to go hiking.

After a quick, early lunch, I headed east on highway 64 towards the Standing Indian area. My plan was to hike a section of the Chunky Gal Trail (really!) to Boetler Peak. The Chunky Gal Trail runs 21 miles, connecting the Appalachian Trail near Standing Indian to the Fires Creek Rim Trail on Tusquitee Bald. The Chunky Gal is remote and relatively unknown, but at 21 miles, it’s one of the longest trails in North Carolina.

Boetler Peak is a summit I’d never heard of, prior to last week. It’s over 5000’ in elevation though, and my guide to the Chunky Gal trail mentions a good view from its summit. Most importantly, the summit is only 3 miles from where the trail crosses highway 64 in Glade Gap. Doing a 6 mile hike seemed reasonable, despite the late start and snow on the ground. Best of all, starting at Glade Gap meant that I didn’t have to navigate any snow-covered back roads.

I reached the gap shortly before noon, and parked well off the road. By the time I hit the trail, the sun was high in a beautiful blue sky. It was still cold though. I didn’t have a thermometer, but I’m guessing that it was around 20 degrees. Luckily, there wasn’t a hint of wind.

I followed blue blazes, first along a dirt road, and then on a footpath. Briefly I joined a long-abandoned stretch of the original route of highway 64. Then I began the climb in earnest.

I headed up a narrow valley, following an icy stream. Before long, I reached a crossing. Under most circumstances, this would be an easy crossing. Today though, all the rocks were covered in ice. I had to search for a relatively safe place to cross, and even then, it required caution. The last thing I wanted to do was fill a boot with icewater.

The first crossing led to a second, which I managed without any drama. I then left the stream behind, and began working my way up the mountain on switchbacks. After a few minutes, I crossed a ridge, onto the sunny southwest side of the mountain. All of sudden, the day warmed up, and the snow disappeared. Unfortunately, the change in climate didn’t last. Before long, I was back on the dark, cold side of the ridge.

After 35 minutes, I joined an old logging road, which I followed up the mountain on switchbacks. The road was snow-covered, and I followed an assortment of animal tracks. After a couple of switchbacks, I left the road for another section of footpath. I continued climbing, but on a more gentle stretch of trail. Although the grade eased, numerous fallen trees created a challenge. I spent much of the hike ducking under and climbing over blowdowns. Most of the trail is well-marked, but it’s not very well maintained. In fact, at one point I ducked under a blowdown featuring a trail marker that had been attached after the tree had fallen.

As I neared the summit, I passed through lengthy tunnels of Rhododendron. Then the trail began to descend, around and below the summit. At this point, I noticed a ribbon marking a faint side trail. I followed the side path through the snow, climbing towards the summit.

A few minutes later, I heard what sounded like Ned Beatty rehearsing his infamous scene from the movie “Deliverance”. I entered a small opening in the forest, and wild pigs scattered in virtually every direction! If there was ever a time when I wished I had the dog along, it was today. Saucony would’ve flipped! I can just picture what that scene would’ve looked like. Saucony wouldn’t have known which pig to chase!

I passed through a churned-up area where the pigs had been rooting. A minute later, I reached the summit. I followed the path beyond the peak, and descended to a rock outcrop. Here, I found a view that made my efforts worthwhile. I looked out to the north, and took in a vista encompassing multiple mountain ranges. Nearby, I could see Wayah Bald and Wesser Bald, with the Balsam Mountains beyond. To the northwest, I could see Tusquitee Bald, where the Chunky Gal Trail terminates. In between, beyond Cheoah Bald, I could see the snowy Smoky Mountains. It was a crystal clear day, and the view seemed to stretch forever. I wonder how far I could’ve seen, if the Smokies hadn’t been in the way. Gatlinburg for sure. Maybe Knoxville.

I was glad I was there in the winter. The view from the overlook is narrow, with encroaching vegetation on all sides. In the warmer months, the view might be somewhat obscured. Plus, I never would’ve been able to see that far in the summer.

Despite the great view, I didn’t linger long. I headed back down the mountain quickly, as I was hoping to squeeze in another short hike before dark. In my hurry to get back to the car, I nearly shot myself in the foot. Coming down the old logging road, I missed the turn off the road. It’s not well-marked, and I didn’t catch my error until I’d gone a few extra minutes down the road. Luckily I noticed my mistake, and doubled-back to regain the trail.

The rest of the hike was uneventful, and I returned to the car at 3:15. From there, I drove to the Standing Indian Campground. The campground is closed, but I was pleased to find FR 67 open beyond the campground. Some shady areas of the road were still snow-covered, but for the most part, it was in good shape. I passed the primitive Hurricane Creek Campground, which appeared to be open. I continued up the road, heading for Mooney Gap. From there, I planned to hike out to Pickens Nose (really!), which promised more great views.

My plans were derailed when I reached a gate across the road more than 2 miles from the trailhead. It was already 4pm, and I was pretty sure I wouldn’t be able to hike 6 miles in an hour and a half.

I backtracked down the road, and stopped at the trailhead for Mooney Falls. I’d visited Mooney Falls many years earlier, and wasn’t particularly impressed. I was in the area though, and didn’t have any better ideas.

After a short walk, I reached the falls. As usual, the falls were littered with fallen trees. Today though, the deadfall was covered in snow and ice. On this occasion, the fallen trees actually added to the scenery. I took a few photos, before returning to the car.

I drove another mile or so, and stopped at the trailhead for Big Laurel Falls. From there, I hiked down to a footbridge over Mooney Creek. Beyond, I hiked a half-mile upstream along Kilby Creek. I arrived at Big Laurel Falls a few minutes later. Big Laurel Falls isn’t very big, but it is pretty. As with Mooney Falls, the abundant snow and ice added to the scene. Small icebergs floated in the pool at the base of the falls. Unfortunately, while trying to position myself for a photo, my foot plunged through thin ice into knee-deep icewater. I didn’t linger very long after that. Despite changing shoes, socks, and pants, my left foot didn’t warm up until I had passed Asheville on the drive home.

I’m looking forward to returning to this area. I’ve backpacked in the Standing Indian Area a couple of times, but I’ve never car camped there. I’d like to get back there, and do that hike to Pickens Nose. One option would be a hike on the AT, from Mount Albert, over Big Butt (really!) and out to Pickens Nose. In addition, there are a number of other attractive hikes in the area.

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