THE LONG WAY

 

 

I felt much better the next morning.  It was remarkable – I went from feeling like death warmed over to semi-human after one good night of sleep.  It seems like I’d picked up a 24-hour flu virus, except that I can’t imagine who I would’ve gotten it from.  We’d only seen a few people on the trail in the Weminuche Wilderness.  What we did see plenty of was mosquitoes.  In hindsight, I wonder if I didn’t pick up a touch of the West Nile Virus.  I’ll never know for sure, but it does make for a better story than the flu.

 

We broke camp at the Long Holiday Motel and had breakfast at Farrell’s in downtown Gunnison.  The breakfast tacos there were good, but it wasn’t exactly what we were looking for.  Christy had definitely been looking forward to a feast involving pancakes. 

 

We debated our options while eating.  Christy and I had reservations at a real Holiday Inn in Alamosa that night.  Our plan was to stay there so we could spend the next day at Great Sand Dunes National Park.  Alamosa isn’t far from Gunnison, but unfortunately Myron was flying home from Denver that night.  We needed to take him to the airport before driving back to Alamosa.

 

Myron mentioned that he had seen an interesting bike path along I-70 in Glenwood Canyon while driving to Grand Junction.  Christy and I had brought our bikes 2/3 of the way across the country, but we’d hardly ridden them.  We were both ready for a break from hiking, and a bike ride sounded nice.  I was feeling better, and thought that an easy bike ride might be a good choice for the day.  We decided to head to Glenwood Springs that morning and spend the afternoon there.  Then we’d take Myron to the Denver airport before heading for Alamosa.

 

From Gunnison, we drove to the cute but pricey town of Crested Butte.  From there we drove a good dirt road over Kebler Pass.  The drive was scenic, as we passed along the edge of the Raggeds Wilderness.  The highlight for Saucony was the numerous free-range cattle here.  At times we had to stop, as they liked hanging out in the road.

 

We reached the North Fork of the Gunnison River and drove route 133 north.  We paid a brief visit to the McClure Campground, which was unimpressive.  The campground is near a major road, and it appears to receive minimal maintenance.  Beyond the campground we crested McClure Pass, where we were treated to fine views of the peaks in the Maroon Bells / Snowmass Wilderness.

 

A drive along the Crystal River followed.  We reached Glenwood Springs in time for lunch, and then headed over to the hot springs.  Glenwood Hot Springs is a massive tourist destination that blew us away.  The springs are natural, but you’d hardly know it, since the facility is basically a giant swimming pool surrounded by a hotel.  We parked there illegally and made preparations for our bike ride.

 

Myron was still experiencing back pain, but decided to skip the springs.  Instead, he offered to wait in the parking area with Saucony while we rode.  This was fortunate, since it was way too hot to leave her in the car.  We’d left the rain behind in southwest Colorado, and here it was sweltering.  Myron seemed content to relax and make some overdue phone calls.  Christy and I headed out from there, riding past the springs complex to the end of the road.  The Glenwood Canyon bike trail begins there, parallel to I-70.  Despite those auspicious beginnings, it’s a pretty nice ride.  We followed along and then over the interstate before descending to a scenic bend in the Colorado River.  This is one of the nicest stretches of trail, as it is well away from the highway.

 

That stretch was short-lived.  Beyond the bend, we followed the path as it merged onto a residential street.  After a long, grueling climb, we reached a highway rest area.  There are several rest areas along this stretch of highway that are developed like small parks.  The bike path accesses each of them, which provides water and facilities.

 

A long, steep descent to the river followed.  From there it was a relatively easy ride along the river.  This stretch of river has some impressive rapids, and we stopped at one to watch some whitewater rafters.  This part of the ride was nice, but it ended at a power plant just upstream.  This is the type of power plant where the water from the river is diverted through pipes away from its natural channel.  The next couple of miles were along the virtually dry riverbed.  There was nothing here but boulders and the smell of dead fish.  This was rather uninspiring, and Christy wasn’t feeling well.  She decided to head back and visit the springs.  I was feeling much better, so I decided to complete the trail before returning.

 

The trail improved beyond the dam.  I passed a small lake and continued into the less-visited upper reaches of the canyon.  This part of the trail was nice since I didn’t have to dodge other riders constantly.  I passed two more rest areas, as well as an interesting restored ranch.  The scenery opens up along here, as the path emerges from the depths of the canyon.

 

I was concerned about keeping Myron and Christy waiting for me, so I picked up the pace.  I covered the last four miles (slightly uphill) in 17 minutes.  I turned around at the final rest area, anticipating an easy ride back down the canyon.  That never really materialized.  It is a rolling trail, so there were still a few minor climbs.  The downhill grades were mild, too, so I wasn’t able to coast.

 

The steep hill before the final rest area was a monster.  I passed several people walking their bikes up this one.  Somehow I was able to ride to the top without stopping, but it wasn’t pretty.  I finished off the last of my water and cruised from there into town.  I covered the full 30-mile round-trip in 3 ½ hours.  I returned to the parking area, and Christy arrived a few minutes later.  She had attempted to swim laps in the hot springs pool, but found it difficult in the warm water.

 

It was nearly 100 degrees, so we stopped for ice cream on the way out of town.  By the time we got on the interstate, I’d seen enough of Glenwood Springs.  The bike path was nice, but that area is far too touristy for my tastes.

 

The drive to Denver was uneventful.  We wisely stopped for gas a couple exits before Vail, but still paid $3.39 a gallon (it was 10 cents more in Vail).  I tried to talk Christy into holding her breath through the Eisenhour Tunnel, but decided it would be a bad idea since she was driving.  We reached Denver shortly before dark, and dropped Myron off at the airport, which was deserted.  We’d found out earlier that a foiled terrorist plot in England had resulted in new restrictions in carry-on luggage.  Fortunately Myron was able to pack all of his liquids in his checked baggage.

 

We left Denver after sunset, and drove south through Colorado Springs.  We stopped for dinner at Wendy’s along the way.  We eventually left I-25, and drove back west to Alamosa.  The drive took longer than expected, and we didn’t arrive at the Alamosa Holiday Inn until 1AM.  So much for getting an early start the next morning!




Continue reading about our trip to the Rockies in the summer of 2006 as we visit Great Sand Dunes National Park.

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