FART GULCH & BUMPASS HELL

We spent several hours Thursday evening driving from Truckee, CA to Lassen Volcanic National Park. We passed through remote countryside and a few small towns. We didn’t have a campground reserved, as everything in the park had been booked before I started looking for a site. The campgrounds only offer reservations for some of the sites, so the others are available on a first-come, first served basis. However, we would be arriving late. Would we find a spot? I had emailed the park a few weeks earlier, and a ranger told me that the walk-in campground at the southwest entrance rarely filled up. That was my original plan, but Christy wasn’t enthusiastic about it. I had also noted several smaller campgrounds in the Lassen National Forest south of the park. She suggested we try for one of them.

We reached the area around 11pm. We decided to try the Hole in the Ground Campground on Mill Creek. After a long drive down a dirt road, I was really hoping that we would find a spot! The campground is pretty small, but there had been no reason to worry. Only about half of the sites were occupied. We found a nice one with lots of hammocking options and paid for 3 nights. The site next to us was also vacant, and the nearest neighbors were on the other side of the road. We set up camp quickly and went right to bed.

After breakfast the next morning we headed for Lassen. On the way, we stopped at a small store, where we overpaid for a second cooler. The one we had brought with us was full of food for the next few days, and we didn’t want Christy’s beer, or my beer, to get hot. We also picked up ice and firewood. From there, we drove into the park. Our first stop was at the Sulphur Works, which is one of several thermal areas in the park. This one features a steaming vent and a bubbling mudpot, among other attractions. I was just as impressed by the adjacent hillside, which was covered in golden wildflowers.

Our plan for the day was a hike to Bumpass Hell. Not only does it have a great name, but it is arguably the most impressive thermal area in the park. We drove the park road to the Bumpass Hell Trailhead, but continued on. The standard trail to Bumpass Hell is currently closed for construction. We would have to take a longer route, starting from the King Creek Picnic Area.

Incredibly, Bumpass Hell wasn’t the best name we encountered during our trip. In fact, it isn’t the best name in Lassen Volcanic National Park. That honor goes to Fart Gulch. The road passes through Fart Gulch, which does indeed smell like a fart.

We drove past a mostly frozen lake and the trailhead for Lassen Peak. We reached the picnic area a few minutes later. The road into the picnic area was actually closed, so we parked in a pulloff just up the road. We walked down the road to the picnic area, which still had a lot of snow. The trail was buried under a snowdrift, so we headed over the snowdrifts in the appropriate direction. The area was pretty busy, and we saw several families and groups of tourists floundering around. Most of the people we encountered were not equipped for a long hike in the snow, but their attempts were certainly amusing. Fortunately there was a well-beaten path the whole way, though we had to climb over a lot of hardpacked snow.

Our first stop was Cold Boiling Lake, which was rather unimpressive. Gas vents at the bottom of the lake cause the water to bubble, but the bubbles were barely discernable. We hiked on, climbing the hillside behind Cold Boiling Lake. That led us to what may have been the most beautiful part of the hike. We passed high above Crumbaugh Lake, which is a gorgeous blue. A field of golden wildflowers extended from the trail all the way down to the lake, and views stretched beyond the lake to the southern and eastern horizons.

We climbed steadily from there, passing high above Bumpass Creek. Then we turned a corner, and Bumpass Hell unfolded below us. Bumpass Hell is an expansive thermal area, with colorful pools and proficient steam vents. The basin is surrounded by rugged ridges that were mostly snow-covered. We found a good spot to hang out just beyond that viewpoint. Christy decided to stop there, while I continued on down into the basin. The trail took me to a bridge over Bumpass Creek. From there, I followed a boardwalk into the heart of the thermal area for a close up view. After touring the boardwalk, I headed back to rejoin Christy.

I’m actually glad that the regular trail to Bumpass Hell was closed. That hike is shorter and easier. I’m sure the basin would’ve been much more crowded if that trail had been open. As it was, we only encountered a few other people there. Also, the hike from Cold Boiling Lake was absolutely gorgeous. I’m sure the other trail has nice scenery, but it’s hard to imagine that it is that scenic.

We returned by the same route to Cold Boiling Lake. There, Christy asked me if I wanted to hike the trail to Crumbaugh Lake and on to Mill Creek Falls and the Visitors Center. She offered to pick me up there. That sounded great, as I would get a closer look at Crumbaugh Lake and a chance to see the biggest waterfall in the park. I took her up on her offer and started down the trail.

I only hiked a minute or two before I encountered the first big snowdrift. This stretch of trail had seen little traffic, so there wasn’t a beaten path. I lost the trail crossing the snow. I wandered around a bit before regaining it. The next snowdrift was just ahead. Was this a good idea? It was late afternoon, and if I had trouble following the trail I might not finish before dark. I decided to bail.

I chased Christy down and hiked out with her. I still wanted to do a little more though. The trail to King Creek Falls was just a short distance down the road. It’s a shorter hike, too, so it fit nicely into the time I had. Christy had really enjoyed the Bumpass Hell hike, but didn’t want to overdo it on her knee. She decided to wait in the car while I did my bonus hike.

I passed a lot of people hiking out as I was heading in. I hoped that meant that my timing was good. After a short distance I reached a junction. The trail ahead follows the creek downstream past a long run of steep cascades. However, that trail is now for one-way (upstream) traffic only. I would return by that route. My descent route was on the horse trail, which forms a short loop with the main trail. Early on I passed over some cliffs with nice views. Then I descended on switchbacks to rejoin the main trail along the creek. I headed downstream, and a few minutes later I reached the brink of King Creek Falls. The official overlook deck looked unappealing. Instead, I followed an obvious scramble path down towards the base. About halfway down I reached a great vantage point. After a few photos I continued to the base. That spot was actually less photogenic, so I didn’t linger there long.

I headed back upstream, following the main trail through the canyon. There are some impressive cascades, slides, and smaller waterfalls in this stretch. It’s a thrilling hike, and it was a fun way to cap off the day. I returned to the car, and Christy and I drove back to our campsite. We had a late dinner there, followed by some beers around the campfire. The next day we would explore more thermal areas in Warner Valley, in the southeast part of the park.

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