Czech Republic 2003
Cycling with AVE Travel Jindřichův Hradec, Nová Bystřice, Slavonice & Třeboň
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After several years of planning and conducting our own bike tours in Europe we decided to try something different. We participated in a guided bike tour in a country we've never visited - the Czech Republic.
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Our host, AVE Travel, is a major travel agency in Prague. AVE Travel offers a complete range of travel services to groups and individuals visiting the Czech Republic. These services include accommodations (AVE owns 11 quality hotels in Prague), custom designed sightseeing tours in Prague and the Czech Republic, ticket reservations for concerts, operas, ballets, and a bike touring service. | |
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Bike touring in the Czech Republic, now that's something we wanted to "czech" out! The bike people at AVE Travel have designed one week bike tours through the most beautiful and historic parts of the country. These tours can include UNESCO World Heritage Sites at Český Krumlov and Holašovice, medieval castles, folklore exhibitions, glass factories, beer tasting at the Budvar plant (the original Budweiser), and wine tasting at Moravian vineyards. If that isn't enough, the natural beauty of southern Bohemia and Moravia makes any trip an unforgettable experience. |
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The AVE Travel guides will customize cycle tours to the abilities of the riders. One can choose gentle, easy routes on quiet country roads for beginners, or challenging single-track for off-road enthusiasts. We got a taste of both styles of biking in southern Bohemia on a short, two day introduction trip. | |
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What's even better is that AVE Travel takes care of all the planning and arrangements. Accommodations, bikes, maps, ground transfers, luggage shuttle, and excellent English speaking guides, it's all covered!
Our morning departure from Prague began with a glass of champagne at a get-acquainted meeting in the Hotel Mucha lobby with our guides and other bikers. |
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We traveled by van to the southern Bohemian city of Jindřichův Hradec. After lunch we toured the imposing castle. Jindřichův Hradec was one of the most important towns in Bohemia during the Middle Ages due to its location on a busy trade route. The castle is actually part of a complex of buildings comprising three hectares along Vajgar Lake. The architecture ranges from Gothic to Renaissance. | |
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In one the courtyards we admired an artistic well-cover richly decorated in metal filigree. Built in the early 1600's the fanciful design includes the five pedaled rose, the symbol of Jindřichův Hradec. | |
| Our favorite part of the castle tour was the stunning Rondel, a 16th c. Italianate garden pavilion with a domed ceiling embellished with gilded stucco and elaborate frescoes. |
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Leaving Jindřichův Hradec our van took us south to Nová Bystřice near the Austrian border. This area is known as Czech Canada (Česká Kanada). The pristine countryside is characterized by wooded hills and rushing streams. A few kilometers from Nová Bystřice, surrounded by forest, we arrived at Hotel Peršlák. The hotel is a peaceful oasis in an idyllic rural setting. We were almost shouting distance from the Austrian border. | |
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Before dinner we took our mountain bikes out for a spin along the country lanes to allow the guides to make any adjustments to the seats and handlebars. Now we were ready for our first full biking day! | |
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The next morning was sunny and warm as we cycled east to Nová Bystřice and on to the village of Klášter with its well-restored church and monastery. The hills of Czech Canada became more evident as we continued east towards Slavonice. The terrain was not difficult, the hills were short and gentle. The landscape unfolded before us with every turn in the road revealing the subtle beauty of the countryside. | |
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Our group included four women from Finland and Sweden. They were very good cyclists and even with the occasional rest stop for a cold Czech beer they had no trouble keeping up with the guys. Speaking of Czech beer, it's no wonder the Czechs are #1 in the world in per capita beer consumption with the availability of superb domestic brews such as Budweiser Budvar, Pilsner Urquell, Bohemia Regent, and Krušovice. | |
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As the town of Slavonice came into view we were not expecting to find architectural treasures in the rural countryside of Czech Canada. Slavonice's highpoint came in the 1500's as it enjoyed the status of a prosperous market town along the trade route between Prague and Vienna. As a result the citizens built beautiful Renaissance town houses reflecting their status and wealth. | |
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The most intriguing feature of Slavonice is the intricate and sometimes bizarre 16th c. sgraffito decorations of the residences around the smaller of the town's two squares. Biblical scenes, mythological creatures, and maybe even some Renaissance humor are found from house to house. Other highlights are the tower of the Church of the Assumption of Our Lady, the 1599 town hall, and a truly remarkable 16th c. diamond fan vaulting in a building on the main square. Slavonice's decline began in the 1600's with the Thirty Year's War and hard times continued when the Prague-Vienna trade route was redirected away from the area. As luck would have it, the misfortunes of the past have left a living treasure that is being protected and cherished for future generations. |
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We left Slavonice and cycled west back towards Nová Bystřice on a different route. Here's where our guides provided some off-road challenges. We headed into the woods on a hard-packed dirt road. This is where the mountain bikes came in handy. We were grateful for the wide tires and front suspension as we negotiated the occasional ruts and tree roots. We met the challenge and loved it! | |
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As we emerged from the woods our eyes gradually became adjusted to the bright sunshine. We found ourselves at the edge of a vast meadow that sloped gradually down to a village. The meadow grass whipped at our feet as we flew across the fields. | |
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Back on the paved road we cycled a few kilometers to the ruins of Landštejn castle. Landštejn is a 13th c. royal castle founded by King Přemysl Otakar II. Even in ruins it is impressive. The restored main tower rewards those who make the climb with superb views of the surrounding countryside. | |
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During dinner at the Hotel Peršlák we discussed the day's adventures along with Bohemian beer and few bottles of Moravian wine. It was an excellent day. In just 55 km of cycling our guides introduced us to some of the best of Czech Canada. Tomorrow we would be cycling from the hotel in the opposite direction and into a completely different landscape. | |
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Our second biking day took us into the Třeboňsko Protected Landscape Region. Most of southern Bohemia is characterized by gentle rolling hills. But the Třeboňsko region contains flat terrain interlaced with a network of medieval fishponds. There are 5000 to 6000 ponds of various sizes with some approaching the size of small lakes. This unique ecosystem still supplies the country with huge harvests of carp. The area has also been declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. | |
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It was perfect cycling along quiet country roads. The day's destination was the town of Třeboň but we were in no hurry. We lost track of time as our guides took us in and out of wooded areas, along ponds, and through tiny villages. When it was time for a break they knew just where to find a country pub. The easy terrain allowed for relaxed cycling that can be enjoyed by all ages and abilities. | |
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We entered Třeboň by afternoon. The town is a well-preserved medieval gem. The ancient defensive walls still surround the old town with three gateways leading into the long, narrow town square. The town hall clock tower (1638) can be climbed during the summer months for a bird's eye view of the square. At one end of the square is the Třeboň Chateau (zámek) built in the early 1600's by Protestant aristocrat and legendary playboy, Petr Vok, last in the line of the ruling Rožmberk family. The Schwarzenberg family took over later in the century and made additional improvements. | |
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Třeboň is home to the Regent Brewery, founded in 1379, and still brewing what is often said to be one of the best beers in Bohemia. Třeboň is also known as a spa town with two luxury facilities providing water therapy and sports activities. | |
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The Renaissance town houses lining the square make a colorful parade leading to the White Horse Hotel (Bílý koníček) at the end. This fanciful building topped by miniature turrets was built in 1544. | |
Třeboň, CZ |
We biked about 50 km today and were ready for more but our short cycle tour was over. Romantic images of southern Bohemia ran through our memories as the van left Třeboň and headed back to Prague. Ave Travel opened our eyes to the possibilities of cycle touring in the Czech Republic. We know there is much more to see and experience. | |
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While in Prague we stayed at the Hotel Mucha, a first class hotel in a renovated neoclassic building. It's close to the city center, the Na Poříčí shopping area, and a Metro station is near-by. The rooms are furnished with elegant antique furniture. | |
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As one may imagine, romantic reproductions of works by Czech artist Alphonse Mucha are displayed in the lobby. There's a fast internet terminal in the lobby for guests, and PC connections in the rooms. The hotel made a very comfortable home-base for exploring the beauty of Prague. | |
Our AVE Travel bike tour guides: Pavel, Tomáš & Luca |
Looking for adventure, history, and beautiful, unspoiled landscapes? This is it! If you've been dreaming of cycling in the Czech Republic contact Pavel Štědrý at AVE Travel.
E-mail to Pavel Štědrý © Bob Parry & Ed James 2003, 2004 E-mail to EurobikeTravel |
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